Foliar Spray Receipts.!?

iHearAll · Oct 17, 2015

Slight burn from feeding two weeks in a row. These are autos planted in fermented kitchen garbage, sand soil, and natural pine/oak leaf mould collected and screened. No more feeding til their done

iHearAll · Oct 17, 2015

cannakis said:
Results? Pictures? That's right up my alley. Producing Everything yourself.

Geez Louise this thread has a Lot of information since I last checked I need to do some reading!

Pic is above^ I'll get you a couple of bud shots soon. Hso autos and such

cannakis · Oct 17, 2015

iHearAll said:
Pic is above^ I'll get you a couple of bud shots soon. Hso autos and such

Gotcha. Looks good...

iHearAll · Oct 18, 2015

No fish aminos left
Bone extract, smelly flower extract, and butternut squash extract.

iHearAll · Oct 18, 2015

Sour diesel automatic

Yea, I'm controlling the pm. Its the only strain in the bunch to get it. Smh

Chz xxl (also the thumbnail below)
Nute burn like a mufug lol

norcal mmj · Oct 18, 2015

MonsterDrank said:
Well I can't back up what you're saying but I can say.. after the dissipation rate of myclobutanil has completed.. there is nothing left that would be combustable to light on fire or breathe in. it is dissipated.. gone. I'm not going to spend a long time again finding the rate of dissipation from the web but it does dissipate in less than 30 days.

it's used in the industry quite a bit actually.. some are for it, some against.. but petty arguing on a forum over it accomplishes nothing. the facts, and studies, and labels, and resources re: the use of Eagle20EW are all over the net. I think it makes more sense to let the grower decide for himself by reading those which are factual evidence from clinical studies rather than some guy online saying.. POISON!! cuz thats what always happens when you mention using Eagle20ew.. you'll get a few people who support it.. a few who won't go near it. I however, trust modern day science and the many studies and folks who say the dissipation would have completed before I harvested my product.

Dumb ass look it up. Read why you can't use it on tobacco. Do you think I made up the fact, that when its combusted it turns to hydrogen cyanide ? But cyanide is not poison lol

also it's banned in California so thats 40 million people that don't use it.

cannakis · Oct 20, 2015

iHearAll said:
Do you guys recycle your soil through other plants? The soil will think you are a substinance farmer just mono cropping year after year and eventually the plant will get a sickly life.

OH SHIT BROTHER!!! This is THE TRUTH! Never even Thought of Crop Rotation! Well damnit! I need to do this...! Do we have a thread started about Crop Rotation!?!

cannakis · Oct 20, 2015

iHearAll said:
Dem peanuts for dem nitrogen nodules. Idk.. My b

No you are Right On! No matter How much you manure a soil if are to grow a continual supply of One Specific species then you Will develop a lack of immunity in the soil leading to deficiencies and disease.

And I do not believe that Merely planting cover crops will resolve this problem in Five Years... Because None of those crops are penetrating as deeply as other crops would.

I believe you are dead On Right with this crop rotation my brother!

ShLUbY said:
I'm not sure what you're referring to with this post... or if you're just being a smart ass lol.

the no-till containers yes, eventually need to be broken up and reamended and fluffed. but this is every 4-6 cycles and for some with killer soil can be even longer. i still dont need to throw away anything. saves $$ and saves the microherd i work so hard to try and keep populated

monocropping can easily be be overcome by planting cover crops of all sorts of plants.

plenty of ways to make the soil diverse.

cannakis · Oct 20, 2015

ShLUbY said:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CC0QFjAAahUKEwjmmqS4irjIAhWP_YAKHd6lDk4&url=https://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/download.php?id=126&usg=AFQjCNFnaIpabV2kEdfDgG1-S7qVPS0LAg&sig2=Ly2S7v8m7LqktwhMNx1MJA

i was reading this article about the powder mildew today. Seems that when you use a bicarbonate against powder mildew it is only effective when you use an oil with it!!!!! the oil helps the bicarbonate to stick to the leaf (duh!) and that makes the difference! no wonder just baking soda and water didn't do shit for my garden this summer as PM raped and pilaged all my wonderful pumpkin, squash, melon, and cucumber plants

the oil they are saying to use is mineral oil, but all the mineral oil products are like 2% petroleum something or other. But I'm thinking is that neem/karanja oil will do just fine. I'm going to get some food grade potassium bicarbonate. they were actually claiming that the potassium bicarbonate application actually prevented the disease from coming back...

so as soon as i get a recipe together, i'll post it up here.

Interesting great find! You know back in the day hundreds of years ago they Sprinkled Lime on their squashes (pumpkins, winter or summer squash it's All squash) to prevent powdery mildew.

norcal mmj said:
Eagle 20 is poison, when combusted. That's why you can't use it on anything you smoke. It's systemic and stays in your plant for a long time. It turn to hydrogen cyanide, just what you want to breath in.

Holy shit!

MonsterDrank said:
Well I can't back up what you're saying but I can say.. after the dissipation rate of myclobutanil has completed.. there is nothing left that would be combustable to light on fire or breathe in. it is dissipated.. gone. I'm not going to spend a long time again finding the rate of dissipation from the web but it does dissipate in less than 30 days.

it's used in the industry quite a bit actually.. some are for it, some against.. but petty arguing on a forum over it accomplishes nothing. the facts, and studies, and labels, and resources re: the use of Eagle20EW are all over the net. I think it makes more sense to let the grower decide for himself by reading those which are factual evidence from clinical studies rather than some guy online saying.. POISON!! cuz thats what always happens when you mention using Eagle20ew.. you'll get a few people who support it.. a few who won't go near it. I however, trust modern day science and the many studies and folks who say the dissipation would have completed before I harvested my product.

Yeah I'll take the "random" guy online's advice because I would bet Most of those "scientific" studies were by the creators and producers of the very product which they are to be biased towards... Haha it's like Monsanto or DuPont saying their poisioncides and death manufactured organisms are Safe! Hahaha YEAH! RIGHT!

Like I said use Lime like they did for Hundreds of years to combat powder mildew.

Pattahabi said:
Eagle 20EW specialty fungicide is labeled for use on more than 100 ornamental plants in greenhouses or field-grown plantings for the control of powdery mildew, rust, scab and various leaf spot diseases. Consult the Eagle 20EW label if plant growth regulators will be used in treated areas.

Eagle-20 is not for food crops, just saying. Nine dispensaries were shut down in CO mainly for using Eagle-20 and other ornamental use only chemicals. This is the organic section, just saying...

P-

DAMN!

Pattahabi said:
Dissapation with a systemic fungicide? Please do more reading on your poison before posting this crap in the organic section...

http://www.westword.com/news/denver-investigated-10-pot-grows-for-use-of-banned-pesticides-holds-plants-6654706

P-

BOOM!!! Pattahabi always chiming in with Truth and Fact! Nothing more nothing less! I have a lot to learn...

ShLUbY said:
and you should see who exactly is presenting these studies, because $$$$ dominates in these types of businesses and they can put out a study on whatever they want to show their product is "safe". Big Ag companies like DOW buy their way into legitimacy, when anyone with any common sense at all would tell them to go fuck themselves. they do it with these "studies" that only they can afford and go and shmooze with the lawmakers and flex their wallets.

BOOM!

cannakis · Oct 20, 2015

vostok said:
Foilar is but a delivery method...one way to get the product to the plant, its no biggy ...no rocket science, understanding exactly what you are going helps, Aloe Vera offers a great surfactant, also traces of about everything thats good, but is very weak on its own, the best way to use vera is add a pinch to your germing water, and your norn
mal plants drinking water on hot days...to get that water to stick to them roots, and shells in the germ. its very difficult to over nute in foilar, not impossible just difficult, I'm big on allowing my plants to decide what they want, foilar allows that to happen ...to my blog on my shit

https://www.rollitup.org/Journal/Entry/foilar-tools-and-application.32101/

Nice I like all those bottles! How long are they lasting roughly?

ShLUbY said:
what one needs to remember is the word RESISTANT does not mean PROOF. just like buying a good pair of boots... if you buy ones that are "water resistant", then you will end up with wet feet. buy boots that are "waterproof", and you stay dry!

Haha ah the wonders of

norcal mmj said:
Dumb ass look it up. Read why you can't use it on tobacco. Do you think I made up the fact, that when its combusted it turns to hydrogen cyanide ? But cyanide is not poison lolView attachment 3523606 also it's banned in California so thats 40 million people that don't use it.

boom! Yet again! I mean I the Tobacco companies can't use it then you Know it Must be bad!

vostok · Oct 20, 2015

these bottles last about a year...depends on how rough you are with them, these bottle were used household cleaning..

things like you use in the kitchen, do note.. the majority are uv proofed by the color red or orange,

that prevents the uv breaking down the chem you have in there, dark like vitamin bottles,

sometimes you do have to fuck about wit the spray thing, more so with the neem,

as its usually solid in cold weather, I have since sprayed the neem and CS. silver bottle black

to use the sun to soften the neem oil, and cs silver to prevent light getting at the silver

The great thing about foilar ..is the plant feeds itself

all you do is 'serve the food' and plant takes what it wants in thru the stomata

unlike when a grower dumps his food into the root zone the plant has no choice

good luck

ShLUbY · Oct 20, 2015

OK, for ahimsa neem oil... they say 1oz (2 tbsp) per gallon or 1.3 gallon h2o. does ANYONE actually use it at this rate? that seems sooo fucking heavy.

i mixed up 1/4 of that, diluted it with about 1/4cup water, and am putting the dilution in my quart pump sprayer at 1-2 tsp (5-10ml) solution per quart. i'll also be sing

I'm using Dr. Bronner's peppermint soap for emulsifier... but does bronner's soap actually emulsify properly since it has so many oils in it already?

i'm going to be including the sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) in on this foliar application for the PM that i'm keeping under control.

Pattahabi · Oct 20, 2015

vostok said:
these bottles last about a year...depends on how rough you are with them, these bottle were used household cleaning..

things like you use in the kitchen, do note.. the majority are uv proofed by the color red or orange,

that prevents the uv breaking down the chem you have in there, dark like vitamin bottles,

sometimes you do have to fuck about wit the spray thing, more so with the neem,

as its usually solid in cold weather, I have since sprayed the neem and CS. silver bottle black

to use the sun to soften the neem oil, and cs silver to prevent light getting at the silver

The great thing about foilar ..is the plant feeds itself

all you do is 'serve the food' and plant takes what it wants in thru the stomata

unlike when a grower dumps his food into the root zone the plant has no choice

good luck

I think you might want to do a little more reading on force feeding plants vs letting them dictate what they need. Your explanation is not correct.

Aspirin? I'd stick with aloe.
Neem oil needs to be emulsified.
Sugar water? For foliar why?
Silver? Are you feminizing seeds?

Tebe pizdietz kozel,

P-

Pattahabi · Oct 20, 2015

ShLUbY said:
OK, for ahimsa neem oil... they say 1oz (2 tbsp) per gallon or 1.3 gallon h2o. does ANYONE actually use it at this rate? that seems sooo fucking heavy.

i mixed up 1/4 of that, diluted it with about 1/4cup water, and am putting the dilution in my quart pump sprayer at 1-2 tsp (5-10ml) solution per quart. i'll also be sing

I'm using Dr. Bronner's peppermint soap for emulsifier... but does bronner's soap actually emulsify properly since it has so many oils in it already?

i'm going to be including the sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) in on this foliar application for the PM that i'm keeping under control.

I use about 2tsp neem and 1tsp potassium silica for my ipm (per gallon water). You might bump it up higher for an infestation.

Peace!

P-

ShLUbY · Oct 20, 2015

Pattahabi said:
I use about 2tsp neem and 1tsp potassium silica for my ipm. You might bump it up higher for an infestation.

Peace!

P-

yeah i've been reading about the potassium silica on here and people using it. but do you think the bronners is an emulsifier or would i have better luck using like lemon juice or something... thoughts P?

Pattahabi · Oct 20, 2015

ShLUbY said:
yeah i've been reading about the potassium silica on here and people using it. but do you think the bronners is an emulsifier or would i have better luck using like lemon juice or something... thoughts P?

I don't have experience using soap to emulsify. Coot recommended silica, and I have been using it with great success for several years now. At first I was using too much neem and my plants looked over fed after sprayings so I backed off. Pretty sure the original recipe said 1-4 tsp depending on your situation/plants. You must emulsify before adding to water, and the water need to be about 75-85 degrees.

hth!

P-

vostok · Oct 20, 2015

Pattahabi said:
I think you might want to do a little more reading on force feeding plants vs letting them dictate what they need. Your explanation is not correct.

Aspirin? I'd stick with aloe.
Neem oil needs to be emulsified.
Sugar water? For foliar why?
Silver? Are you feminizing seeds?

Tebe pizdietz kozel,

P-

Tebe pizdietz kozel, lol ...weak!

iHearAll · Oct 20, 2015

Pattahabi said:
I think you might want to do a little more reading on force feeding plants vs letting them dictate what they need. Your explanation is not correct.

Aspirin? I'd stick with aloe.
Neem oil needs to be emulsified.
Sugar water? For foliar why?
Silver? Are you feminizing seeds?

Tebe pizdietz kozel,

P-

Yea you can totally over do a foliar feeding. I litterly just did. If you fed a plant that has enough nutrition in the soil already, it doesn't exactly matter where you fed it. However it may actually be of a literal kind of burn when foliar feeding.

Pattahabi · Oct 20, 2015

vostok said:
Tebe pizdietz kozel, lol ...weak!

Why aspirin instead of aloe?
Why not emulsify your neem and add a surfacant before spraying?
Why do you have silver solution?
Do you really think plants are going to skip photosynthesis and use your sugar water?

Poka chukcha!

P-

ShLUbY · Oct 20, 2015

so after doing a little looking around... i found the potassium bicarbonate... but while emulsifying that with oil and potassium silicate.... that's a lot of freakin potassium. hmmmmmmm not sure what to think about that. the potassium bicarbonate is like 39% K or something like that.

Foliar Spray Receipts.!?

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