flower yellowing?

From the start, Bottom 1/3 was super soil. Next 2/3 were 1/2 ffof amd espoma potting soil.

I never did a top dressing. I believe I used the tomato jobes.
Oh ok...did you then mix all of those together then the super soil, the ffof, and the espoma or did you just leave them in layers? The tomato jobes have a n-p-k of 6-18-6 so that should be plenty of nitrogen during flowering. You could probably use a lil bit more phosphorus and definitely some more potassium in week 5 of flowering. But from my understanding the super soil should be breaking down some of the organics and supplying those nutes on an as needed basis.
 

BluntMoniker

Well-Known Member
The yellowing is nitrogen deficiency.. why people are saying dose with PK or cal/mag (cal/mag can have nitrogen, but why not add nitrogen if thats what it needs?)is beyond me.

Add in some alaskan fish fertilizer (5-1-1) at 1/2 dose recommended for potted plants now, and in another week or 2 just to get you through to harvest.

You don't need MUCH nitrogen, just something low dose to keep the plant from cannabilizing itself too much. Some yellowing of large lower fan leaves is normal, but at this stage, you don't want to let it get too out of hand. If it was week 7-8 I'd tell you to ignore it all together, but with 5ish weeks left of flower, you need a just a touch more N to keep your plant healthy
 
The yellowing is nitrogen deficiency.. why people are saying dose with PK or cal/mag (cal/mag can have nitrogen, but why not add nitrogen if thats what it needs?)is beyond me.

Add in some alaskan fish fertilizer (5-1-1) at 1/2 dose recommended for potted plants now, and in another week or 2 just to get you through to harvest.

You don't need MUCH nitrogen, just something low dose to keep the plant from cannabilizing itself too much. Some yellowing of large lower fan leaves is normal, but at this stage, you don't want to let it get too out of hand. If it was week 7-8 I'd tell you to ignore it all together, but with 5ish weeks left of flower, you need a just a touch more N to keep your plant healthy
She doesn't need any nitrogen she has those jobes tomato sticks in place and has since flowering begun. They have an npk of 6-18-6. Not to mention the nitrogen it should be getting from the microbes in the living soil breaking down the earthworm castings and other amendments that were in her initial mix. She should have plenty of nitro for the flowering phase from the sticks alone. It would be my guess that this is just the natural cycle of this strain as it is preparing to go into it's final stages of flowering.
 
Also @BluntMoniker this strain looks more like an indica to me which means she probably only has 3 more weeks of flowering as opposed to 5. Most indicas flowering time is 8 to 9 weeks where sativas are 10 weeks or more.
 

BluntMoniker

Well-Known Member
Also @BluntMoniker this strain looks more like an indica to me which means she probably only has 3 more weeks of flowering as opposed to 5. Most indicas flowering time is 8 to 9 weeks where sativas are 10 weeks or more.
I only grow indica heavy strains, running an ayuhuasca purple and WW now... I like em at 10-11 weeks, but we all have our preferences ;). But w/ harvest @ week 8, w/ the jobes spike (didn't know the NPK on it, thats my fault) your prob fine.

Like you said, between the fact shes nearing the end, and your heavy rains and weather, its just nature doing her thing. She's got beautiful structure and color otherwise. Wanna see the finished product!
 
I only grow indica heavy strains, running an ayuhuasca purple and WW now... I like em at 10-11 weeks, but we all have our preferences ;). But w/ harvest @ week 8, w/ the jobes spike (didn't know the NPK on it, thats my fault) your prob fine.

Like you said, between the fact shes nearing the end, and your heavy rains and weather, its just nature doing her thing. She's got beautiful structure and color otherwise. Wanna see the finished product!
Yeah that's true @BluntMoniker everybody has their own preference. I'm guessing you like more of the couch lock effect...lol. And it really is dependant on strain some indicas are better at 10 weeks. I'm not familiar with the ayuhuasca purps and I'm assuming WW is white widow? I'm currently running a mango right now myself. I started flush today so not too much longer left . I agree I wanna see the finished product. I wouldn't mind seeing your ayuhuasca purp either if you have pics.
 

BluntMoniker

Well-Known Member
Ayuhuasca purple from barneys farm, White Widow from Dinafem

Growing in an 18 gallon sub irrigated pot using Green's Probiotic Method.

I also revegged the entire plant. Roughly 5-6 weeks in veg, 3 weeks in flower, 3 weeks back in veg, and she is currently 4 weeks back in flower. Beautiful purpling, and the buds themselves are purple (the first buds are anyway... the top/younger buds haven't gotten quite that far yet

You can also see my White Widow clone in the corner... shes going through her first flower cycle in the reveg process

 

calvin.m16

Well-Known Member
Ok so I did some research on what you have used for your grow and I don't believe you under fed...nitrogen anyway. I think you would have been closer to over feeding than under. Did you mix your ffof and living soil right from the beginning or did you add your living soil as a top feed later on?? You definitely need some kind of bloom booster with very little to no nitrogen and higher in p and k. Also what kind of jobes spikes did you use? When I was looking those up I noticed there were several varieties.
After taking a deeper look into the pictures I noticed there are some "frosted tips" is what I like to call it. Basically it's where you JUST almost burn the plants with nutrients but honestly for me its the perfect sign. It looks like it was something that happened as more of a correction (later in life) than throughout its life since the leaves would definitely be in worse shape unless you were able to keep it dialed in.

Next run you could do a bit deeper/richer super soil and maybe veg a bit longer? It's pretty hard to dial in super soil I've heard without running it a time or two with the same genetics to figure out how much nutrition the plants are going to need.
 

calvin.m16

Well-Known Member
Ayuhuasca purple from barneys farm, White Widow from Dinafem

Growing in an 18 gallon sub irrigated pot using Green's Probiotic Method.

I also revegged the entire plant. Roughly 5-6 weeks in veg, 3 weeks in flower, 3 weeks back in veg, and she is currently 4 weeks back in flower. Beautiful purpling, and the buds themselves are purple (the first buds are anyway... the top/younger buds haven't gotten quite that far yet

You can also see my White Widow clone in the corner... shes going through her first flower cycle in the reveg process


Gorgeous looking flowers there. May I ask why you reveg intentionally? I like you're using a "sub-irrigated" pot system. Have you considered looking into AutoPots? Cheers.

Cal
 
Ayuhuasca purple from barneys farm, White Widow from Dinafem

Growing in an 18 gallon sub irrigated pot using Green's Probiotic Method.

I also revegged the entire plant. Roughly 5-6 weeks in veg, 3 weeks in flower, 3 weeks back in veg, and she is currently 4 weeks back in flower. Beautiful purpling, and the buds themselves are purple (the first buds are anyway... the top/younger buds haven't gotten quite that far yet

You can also see my White Widow clone in the corner... shes going through her first flower cycle in the reveg process

That is nice bro! Looks awesome! So you veg the put in flower and then put them back in veg for a few weeks and then flower again? Why do you that? I'm just curious cause I've never heard of that. I always thought if they went back into veg after they started flower that the buds would stop growing and possibly even be lost.

*edit* Sorry I didn't see where Calvin had already asked that question.
 
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BluntMoniker

Well-Known Member
That is nice bro! Looks awesome! So you veg the put in flower and then put them back in veg for a few weeks and then flower again? Why do you that? I'm just curious cause I've never heard of that. I always thought if they went back into veg after they started flower that the buds would stop growing and possibly even be lost.

*edit* Sorry I didn't see where Calvin had already asked that question.
Well... tbh I was reading through @Richard Drysift 's grow journal where he said he does that (or something similar), and it increases bud growth, or at least increases node sites/branching.

Anyway, so i thought that was kind of a cool theory, and wanted to see for myself what would happen. What happened, is actually pretty cool... I'll link you to where I posted my pictures and synopsis of how the plant grows when done using this style.

I'm not going to recommend it yet, as im not done tinkering/testing, but so far the plant has had a good reaction to it, with minimal (if any) noticeable stress to the plant. I'll update this thread with a link in a bit to my reveg synopsis.

My overview of my experience revegging so far: https://www.rollitup.org/t/the-reveg-corner.1022371/post-15775405

Not sure why my pictures are showing upside down, but the close ups and explanations of how the growth forms etc are pretty interesting if your a weed nerd lol. I plan on experimenting with it for a few more rounds, seeing what my yields are etc. The process itself adds an extra 2 months to the grow, so if it doesn't give me at LEAST 2x yield its not worth the trouble... but well find out!
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
It works best if you gradually reduce hours of daylight before the first flip. Through light cycle manipulation your plants can reach a place where they are both vegging and flowering at the same time which makes for nice fat spires of bud layer on in development. So nice to see someone trying something that works awesome for me. Takes a boatload if patience but worth all the effort.
 
Well... tbh I was reading through @Richard Drysift 's grow journal where he said he does that (or something similar), and it increases bud growth, or at least increases node sites/branching.

Anyway, so i thought that was kind of a cool theory, and wanted to see for myself what would happen. What happened, is actually pretty cool... I'll link you to where I posted my pictures and synopsis of how the plant grows when done using this style.

I'm not going to recommend it yet, as im not done tinkering/testing, but so far the plant has had a good reaction to it, with minimal (if any) noticeable stress to the plant. I'll update this thread with a link in a bit to my reveg synopsis.

My overview of my experience revegging so far: https://www.rollitup.org/t/the-reveg-corner.1022371/post-15775405

Not sure why my pictures are showing upside down, but the close ups and explanations of how the growth forms etc are pretty interesting if your a weed nerd lol. I plan on experimenting with it for a few more rounds, seeing what my yields are etc. The process itself adds an extra 2 months to the grow, so if it doesn't give me at LEAST 2x yield its not worth the trouble... but well find out!
Ah kewl deal. I will definitely check that link out and see what you have there. I just have never heard of that so it is really interesting to me (guess I am a weed nerd...lol.) For sure let us know what your results are and what the outcome is. I hope it all works out for you bro! Good luck!
 
It works best if you gradually reduce hours of daylight before the first flip. Through light cycle manipulation your plants can reach a place where they are both vegging and flowering at the same time which makes for nice fat spires of bud layer on in development. So nice to see someone trying something that works awesome for me. Takes a boatload if patience but worth all the effort.
Yeah I can understand that. Like cut the light back like an hour a week or so before you do the first flip. Like maybe flip when you get to like 6hrs of light or something and then go back to 24? That's really kewl that you told people about it so they could experiment with it. I may have to try this on my next grow or when I get an indoor setup...lol.
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
Yeah I can understand that. Like cut the light back like an hour a week or so before you do the first flip. Like maybe flip when you get to like 6hrs of light or something and then go back to 24? That's really kewl that you told people about it so they could experiment with it. I may have to try this on my next grow or when I get an indoor setup...lol.
Not my idea. Read about it in a back issue of Skunk magazine. Light manipulation is an old school indoor method used to reduce stretch and increase bud mass. Some call it monster cropping. It’s a good way to sex out plants if you have the space but clones go much faster. From seed I veg about 7 weeks and then begin lowering the hours of daylight by an hour or two per week. 18/6 to 17/7 and so on... the next week go to 16/8; really bushes them out. From clones you can go right to 15/9 for a week or two then straight to 13/11 to get them pistils poppin. When they get down to 14/10 or less daylight many strains throw pistils. Once they do just go back to 18/6 or longer to re-veg them. You don’t really need to go to 12/12 until the flip to final bloom phase a week or two later.

The more gradual you are the less plants will stretch out the space in between nodes which forms these nice long spires of corn cob shaped bud later on. It works by mimicking the suns natural cycle which changes gradually through spring and summer into fall. You never see outdoor plants all stretched out like many indoor grows. You need decent lighting to grow monsters of course and the space to do it.
 

BluntMoniker

Well-Known Member
The more gradual you are the less plants will stretch out the space in between nodes which forms these nice long spires of corn cob shaped bud later on. It works by mimicking the suns natural cycle which changes gradually through spring and summer into fall. You never see outdoor plants all stretched out like many indoor grows. You need decent lighting to grow monsters of course and the space to do it.
I missed this part when I originally read your thread, I went from 12/12 straight to 18/6, then a week later up to 20/4 (was getting impatient waiting for veg to happen). Then back to 12/12.

I was in veg, flowered for 3 weeks, vegged for 3 weeks, then back to flower. I'll have to try it with the more moderate lighting changes and see what she does structurally, because mine grew basically 2 layers of buds, with the second layer growing out of the first, more similar to what you'd see with a plant thats harvested and then revegged
 
Not my idea. Read about it in a back issue of Skunk magazine. Light manipulation is an old school indoor method used to reduce stretch and increase bud mass. Some call it monster cropping. It’s a good way to sex out plants if you have the space but clones go much faster. From seed I veg about 7 weeks and then begin lowering the hours of daylight by an hour or two per week. 18/6 to 17/7 and so on... the next week go to 16/8; really bushes them out. From clones you can go right to 15/9 for a week or two then straight to 13/11 to get them pistils poppin. When they get down to 14/10 or less daylight many strains throw pistils. Once they do just go back to 18/6 or longer to re-veg them. You don’t really need to go to 12/12 until the flip to final bloom phase a week or two later.

The more gradual you are the less plants will stretch out the space in between nodes which forms these nice long spires of corn cob shaped bud later on. It works by mimicking the suns natural cycle which changes gradually through spring and summer into fall. You never see outdoor plants all stretched out like many indoor grows. You need decent lighting to grow monsters of course and the space to do it.
Ah...ok I see. That's really good to know and I was just wondering about that. If there was indeed a way to limit the stretch during flowering phase so that the nodes stayed closer together and made more of just one solid looking bud up the stem of the plant. I have mine outside and it did stretch pretty far between node sites but I didn't start it early in the spring like I should have. It was actually a late start, late spring, or early summer, so what you were saying totally makes sense. I wonder what the effects would be if from seedling you gradually increase the light to veg then cut the light gradually to flower then go back up again to veg and then flip to final flower? Definitely wanna try and experiment with this on my own and see what happens. Even if it's not your idea originally, still appreciate the sharing of knowledge! Thanks alot bro!
 
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