Flower transitioning

Mr.Buds

Well-Known Member
So I'm running an under current deep water culture, eight 5 gal buckets with netted pot lids. Sour OG clones in rockwool surrounded by hydrotron. Using Advanced Nutrients 3 part Grow, Micro, Bloom with additives: Botaniare Cal Mag, hygrozyme, B-52, H202, Em-1 as my inoculant with added Molasses. I'm about to transition them into flower after 6 weeks of Vegging and would like to hear some advice on how to transition them. What new additives for the flowering cycle can I use to improve production and potency? Should I decrease slowly my veg regime and introduce bloom at an increasing level? Just thought I'd reach out and find new things to try out. Thank you guys.
 

thegreenman17

New Member
I am actually around the same stage (not to hijack your thread) and had a lot of these same questions. Any of you vets able to help us?
 

jondamon

Well-Known Member
Personally I use an NPK of 6-3-8 from start to finish.

With some Ca and Mg along with Si some PK1314 an enzyme product and a root stimulator.


Molasses is mainly used to supply an extra food source to beneficial microbes living within the rhizosphere.

H2o2 kills those friendlies.

I would cease with the Molasses. No point if you're running hydro with chem based nutes.


The best advice I can give you is to keep your leaf health green!

Rectify any deficiencies as early as possible and reap the rewards of healthy plants.

Healthy leaves = killer harvest


J
 

Mr.Buds

Well-Known Member
Thanks Jondamon,

i understand and the whole H202 killing enzymes and bennies, but I haven't seeing any problems with using a very minimal dosage along side the molasses mad hygrozyme. The main purpose of the molasses is to mix 1 tbs with 3 tbs of EM-1 to make it last longer since I use quite a bit of it.

About to end 2nd week of flower and went with adding
Bud Candy
overload
Big Bud
cal mag
SI
B52
and the Micro, grow Bloom

not using everything at the same time but at certain points for interval periods. Everything is looking great so far.
 

jondamon

Well-Known Member
I've actually stopped using the 6-3-8 for now as I think the excess K was causing uptake issues with Ca and Mg.

Here's my 400w room at day 4 of 12/12.



So everything above I still use except my base is now 5-4-3. I grow in coco though.



J
 

Malevolence

New Member
You are playing with fire putting molasses in DWC buckets... and the h2o2 makes no sense if you are using bennies.
 

Mr.Buds

Well-Known Member
I don't directly put molasses in the buckets or solution. I dilute it with emi as an innoculant and let it sit for a day till it becomes like a tea and add to my Rez. Or is molasses in a DWC system just a complete flaw? If so, why?
 

Malevolence

New Member
organic material like molasses or organic nutes in DWC tends to trigger slime blooms. If you are just using the molasses to feed microbes in a tea, that is fine as long as the molasses is used up before you pour the tea in the res. If you have a strong bennies population, you can get away with a lot such as light leaks in the bucket, mid 70s temps, and some organic material... but if you are dosing them with h2o2 you do not have a strong bennies population.

This thread talks about brewing microbial tea and is geared towards DWC specifically. I don't know if you have seen it, but it's good to check out and just read Heisenberg's posts. It talks about what the various microbes do exactly (enzymes will make existing slime blooms worse for example), how to make the tea, and different ways to provide housing for bennies when there is no big root ball to colonize.
https://www.rollitup.org/dwc-bubbleponics/361430-dwc-root-slime-cure-aka.html
 

Mr.Buds

Well-Known Member
Ya, I've read it. It helped me out a lot when I was dealing with slime a while back. I guess I just figure. H2o2 will kill my bennies. And yes the molasses is all used up before I add the mix into the rest. It looks like ice tea.
 
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