Hi pedrovski Its the cheapest of the cheapest Chinese strips, I dont think they care too much for specific wavelenghts when manufacturing these, and furthermore , I think that every strip is different from one another, doubt very much there is any consistency here.
Ped dont take this the wrong way but I can not tell you where I bought them as this would be pretty much giving my identity with address away as I could easily be traced through the seller.So you will have to do your own bit of homework on this one.But a hint would be to look at suppliers on alibaba or even ebay and get in touch with them.
i cant wait for these top starty the flower cycle im curious to weight per watt if your pulling 400 watt in flower theoreticly should get 200 grams time will tell i seen on some other site that you could get 0.75 of a gram per watt with leds how big r they now any new pics
Well I don't have both panels in there, only the new one I built which is drawing 204 watts only , also bear in mind that the 4 photo-period plants have not been sexed yet and could turn out to be all males, however a good comparison I imagine would be to see what I can get out of the auto flowers compared to what the breeder says is to be expected .This is Barneys description of the autos I am growing:
| type | Auto-Flowering / Feminized / Indica |
|---|---|
| Genetics | Ruderalis X Skunk #1 X Cheese |
| yield | 15 to 20 gr |
| Height | 40 to 50 cm |
| flowering time | Auto-Flowering |
| Harvest time | Auto-Flowering |
| THC | 12 to 15% |
| CBD | High |
, I hope to learn and this is my way of doing it .
I've only been at this stuff for about 8 months, but almost everything I've done was against convention. From my experience people seem to over complicate cloning. I've had 99% success rate just using a Folgers coffee container and a bubbler. From what I've read, you can simply do as you are - drop them in water in low light. I think he only difference in time-to-root is a few days.they look really healthy, I will upload some pics, but I hope people don't tell me off for my experiments
Peace.
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The soil I use is the Biobizz allmix ,and I also save the water from boiled vegetables (as long as I do not add any salt ) to add to the tap water I use thats left for at least 24hrs sitting on a dish to evaporate the Chlorine.
That's so true people do over complicate things and even put some newbies off at times.I've only been at this stuff for about 8 months, but almost everything I've done was against convention. From my experience people seem to over complicate cloning. I've had 99% success rate just using a Folgers coffee container and a bubbler. From what I've read, you can simply do as you are - drop them in water in low light. I think he only difference in time-to-root is a few days.
One thing I have learned is you really do need two grow chambers if you are cloning. I tried very hard to get away with a single flowering cabinet and it just didn't quite work. It would be fine if you were always growing from seed, but that's too expensive for my tastes. I'm about to do some tests to compare 1)wicking system, 2)top fed flood/drain 100% perlite with contained roots, 3) top fed 100% hydroton with roots in res (contained via nylon stockings). All three will share the same aerated res of straight water and will be fed OC+ CRF nutes. Most people wouldn't do any of these things, but it's more fun to experiment. The point is, experimenters are those that become pioneers (assuming they find success
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Yep we can safely conclude it does the job as far as vegging goes, and I am sure that a a panel thats a 5th the size should be enough to keep a bonsai mother going nicely for as little as US$20 worth of lights drawing under 5 dollars a month of electricity or thereabouts. I am just hoping this thing does go the full mile and deals with flowering just as well,speaking of which , I have noticed some tiny specs of growth on the 5th node of both my sleestacks which I assume to be preflowers ,but way too small to make out any detail, so a couple more days I guess and we will know what is what.Goddamn, those are pretty shades of Green. So compact! Fuckin'
Seriously, if nothing else this is the cheapest, most baddest veg/mother light anybody could ask for, it's silly good. Cheers to it turning out to be more than just that.
No one else "liked" that post? Shenanigans.
Hey Pan, I'm just catching up here. You're a busy little beaver, ain't ya
? Anyway I keep some bonsai moms under some 10 watt 5500K SMD LED spotlights. Clone under them too. This keeps them healthy, but growth is slow. But since I only take 2 or 4 clones a month it's perfect for me. It's only drawing 6 to 8 watts and once the efficiency gets better on these, and therefore less heat generated, I have a feeling people will be using these SMD/COB lights to keep their genetics going for years, perhaps decades. Much cheaper and easier than tissue sampling, though I guess tissue is better in the long run.
Well its only a matter of time before they double the number of diodes on an smd the 5050 has 3 , fairly sure we will be seeing 6 maybe 9 soon, so yeah I think there will be a lot to be achieved with smds, as for the heat, I find its mostly generated by the resistors and not so much the diodes, and I can easily deal with it by either blowing a fan onto them, or lowering the voltage I have a driver that allows to regulate dc voltage from 9v to 14v at 0.1 v intervals, lowering the voltage to 11v does away with most heat, however this option also means less watts.Hey Pan, I'm just catching up here. You're a busy little beaver, ain't ya
Looking forward to your adventure here. I am interested into finally dumping my CFLs that I still use to veg with and your grow is very interesting in that regard. I have my doubts about some things you're doing, but I love to be wrong about some things too! Good Luck and Happy Growing!
? Just remember the more variables you add by experimenting the harder it is to come to real conclusions. At least IMO.. I would think in your case with all the variables and questionable spectrums, you should take it easy with the feedings and let the plant tell you what it needs. Or more plainly put, don't give it more food than it needs to survive in the environment you created or it's gonna get ugly early .
Thanks Fran ,really happy to have an experts opinionWell I think you should just go for it. As long as no one gets electrocuted, I say try it, right
You may want to use a little less water when feeding. Too much water in fresh mix frees up of nutrients and can cause burnt tips. All that water passing over fresh roots with all those fresh nutes, probably nitrogen, can cause it I believe. Plus it's good to start LED plants off with very light feedings at first. I look at it as the amount of PAR/PUR generated dictates what the plant should get, not what a label, pot size or your ambition says
And that's what sucks about resistors/Zeners, Extra resistance, plus more wattage than needed = heat and poor performance/efficacy. But those LEDs are meant to be bright and last, not really to grow weed and save money. That's why I feel Chip On Board array will really take off in micro/mini grows. Great heat control and they come in strips too!
http://www.lumitech.bnet.at/chip-on-board-cob-led-module_11.htm
,I always told myself from the word go that I would not be committing the one mistake most newbs are prone to ,being over watering and over feeding but the temptation is just too great , I am going to let the pots get dry and next watering will be plain ph balanced water only. I know I am adding too many variables, partly because I been getting too confident after the positive first 4 weeks, but I will bring myself back down to earth and stop fooking about so much .
Hi , and welcome
, I'll do my best to keep it going, also hate getting tucked into a thread and finding out it got abandoned just as it was getting interesting.
