first grow the doctor by green house seeds:L help needed

polishpollack

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
You've been in flower already for a long time. 5 weeks of flower right? I don't think I would add anything and just let it finish and harvest it, but this is just my opinion. others would see things differently. Better lighting next time.
 
YesMamNoSir

YesMamNoSir

Active Member
If it were me I would put a couple inches of compost or worm castings on the top then mulch it. Water it in with as VERY LIGHT molasses solution like 1/2 t molasses/gallon or a fish fert at 1/4 strength. This is only enough to activate the compost. A compost topdressing usually last 2/3 weeks which will easily get you through to harvest without having to add or flush anything.

A good idea if it doesn't seem to be draining properly or drying out fast is drill a million tiny holes in the pot and root feed by letting it sit in your fertilizer solution for 30 minutes. This will allow the plant to only uptake what it can handle and leave the rest alone.

Good Luck
 
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jen@dank2u

Member
polishpollack said:
What I meant was how do you tell the difference between pH lockout and a nutrient problem? If the solution is to flush and the plants look better, how do you know that it wasn't a matter of being over fertilized? That would cause the pH problem as fert content in soil or water is what causes the pH to be what it is. pH being one way to the other is dependent on the fert content in the soil. Get that right and you won't have to worry about pH. After 12 weeks of grow time, your plant is small due to weak lighting. The yellowing is from 5 weeks of flower. These plants die naturally and after so many weeks of flower, complicated by weak lighting, it is dying naturally. I suspect that unless you have really screwed up a fert regimen, the last thing you should worry about is pH. Don't mean to sound like a jerk and I know that people are very much into this pH idea, but pH is a symptom of something else going on in the soil or water in hydro. The point is to find the cause of bad pH, which is usually a wrong fert content. Both potting soil and water will have a pretty neutral pH until fert is added, either at a manufacturer or by the grower.
Aren't the high phosphorus bud blaster actually suppose to be given in the first week of flower and only once? What good would it do to give so much phosphorus at the end of the grow? You don't want to load the plant with fert just before harvest. You want to give nothing but water to get the fert out, otherwise you end up consuming those chemicals. No good.
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if you ph the water b4 feeding and the catch the water that comes out the bottom of the pot and ph it again if it changes you know the soil is doing it. But u need to test it
 

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jen@dank2u

Member
I grown many years bland would never skip the super bud blaster 1 time the last 2 weeks. And yes it is also used to initiate bloom. And if you don't you could probably expect loose not right not dense nugs just my experience. The bud blaster has very little nitrogen and that's what make bud taste yucky. When you use it you will notice it your buds will swell and get more sticky. And because you use so little it last for long time. Super Natural bud blaster or mad farmer had mother of all bloom which is a little cheaper but works well too. I've don't side by side grows and tested so many these two always deliver
 
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jen@dank2u

Member
Best way to aquire new expensive nutrients is to find a grow show like maximum yield. I'm just trying to help a new grower. My advice is from experience not just reading blogs . I went to school and took ever plant class noting compares to plain old experience.but good luck to u
 
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jen@dank2u

Member
thestonerlad said:
View attachment 3447536 I'm on 56 days flowering and it said 55 but is she ready ? View attachment 3447537View attachment 3447535
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Not quite! Almost. Is there any way you can get a 60\100x's magnifier?
If not look at the hairs. The hairs need to be red if they are white they are still premature. This is a hard part for most new growers because they look great. But maybe a week you want a large percentage to be redish or colored. Not white. They will still swell and gain size.
If u can use a magnifier then you are looking for 70%amber tricomb heads. The trip'so go from clear to milky to amber. Depending on how heavy you want the high to be depend on how long you let it ripen. This part is preference the peak harvest is 70% amber. You could go longer but that's how you get couch lock bud. Really Stoney.
The pics are good. Keep going try 1 more week check those hairs.
 
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thestonerlad

Well-Known Member
I have an x30 and I checked there's only about 15-20% of the trichomes still a wee bit clear It does not show in photos but the buds are basically white ?
 
J

jen@dank2u

Member
thestonerlad said:
And also due to Unchangeable events I will have to harvest tomorrow
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What , bugs, mildew ? Why are you gonna harvest? It may lose all smell and smell like dried grass just warning you I've done early harvests.and totally regretted once you cut your done. It will be good but it shrinks so much. in the last week they plump . You just are cutting yourself short those hairs are so fresh still and more will come. But if you gotta harvest and you can't wait. You gotta do what you gotta do. Just look at the diagram to see the size change in a white hair calex and a ripened hair and calex it doubles in size. And the crystals too. Glad to see she made it to this point. Good luck and she has pulled the excess nitrogen from her leafs so it should be a good clean smoke.
 

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thestonerlad

Well-Known Member
I'm leaving for a while the latest I could leave it would be Monday .
The plants in 2 days of darkness now but can extend that a day like ?
 
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thestonerlad

Well-Known Member
Yeah that's basically where you take more moisture out but make sure they're not too dry and it helps keep potency up. Is that too basic ? I was gona dry for a few days and then move em to a plastic box and while I was away have a friend open the boxes and close thm every few days or somthing along those lines
 
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jen@dank2u

Member
thestonerlad said:
Yeah that's basically where you take more moisture out but make sure they're not too dry and it helps keep potency up. Is that too basic ? I was gona dry for a few days and then move em to a plastic box and while I was away have a friend open the boxes and close thm every few days or somthing along those lines
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Yeah curing is after you hang dry the branches and they feel dry to the touch not too much just after 2/3 days. And you have removed the trim and stems. I use a large glass jar. Put the dried stuff in close lid put in dark place and every 12-24 hours you open it pour the buds out on a flat surface for about 10 min. Then put back on jar. And repeat till nugs tighten up for at least a week. It's slowly drying the last of the moisture. And yeah there are many ways to do it. Save the trim if you want to make wax. I could walk you through that later if u want. My harvest is 2 months away. Just started the transition. Do you have molasses ? The plants like that at the end it helps push more resin out
 
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thestonerlad

Well-Known Member
Thanks man :) much appreciated :) Naw man Europe ;) is there anyway possible to cure without having to keep checking it ? Like once a week ?
 
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