First Grow questions

-i'm working in a 4x4 grow tent
-I currently have the plants vegging under a t-5
-400watt digital ballast and air cooled hood are on the way
-I have both MH and HPS bulbs
-I plan to clone the plants an keep he females
-I would like to have 4 plant rotation
-plants are about a day past two weeks old
-my first grow
-started from seed
-black old potting soil
-seeds were started in rapid rooter
-I hope to LST

My questions are 1. how do they look?
2. when should I move them into 3gl buckets
3. when should I give the their first nutrients ( they have just been fed water)
4. when should i start LST
4. how can I improve

1. They look nice
2. In about 2 weeks or so?
3. You want to time your transplant into the 3gls so that you dont have to use any nutrients while they are in the 1gs. After they get into the 3gs you will probably be able to go another 2-3 more weeks without any feeding.
4. I would probably LST a day or so after you transplant into the 3gs.
5. Just keep on growin and reading.

hi

not bad when the MH gets there u can move them over to that ..............as for the mothering did u set up your area to keep it and the clone area

as for feeding i start using the stackers when the plant is small .....rooting...b52....low rated compounds that fill in only a certin gaps of the planed feed nothing major on NPK (so many different ones on market no idea what to list so leaving like that )

Lsting is good but u might look at SCRoG (sea of green/screen of green) .......this will get the maximum out of the plant.........just account that once u start the pots do not move so if u need to flush has to be done on site(raise the planter up set it on something so u can capture the water )


soil growing
1 gallon of soil is 1 month of power to grow the plant .......u do not starting count the weeks until about the 2node is formed then 4 weeks it is out of power

Southerner said:

1. They look nice
2. In about 2 weeks or so?
3. You want to time your transplant into the 3gls so that you dont have to use any nutrients while they are in the 1gs. After they get into the 3gs you will probably be able to go another 2-3 more weeks without any feeding.
4. I would probably LST a day or so after you transplant into the 3gs.
5. Just keep on growin and reading.

Click to expand...

I appreciate the fast and easy to understand answers. exactly what I was looking for.

the MH I still about a week out, how far above the plants should I keep the 400watt when I get it? it has an air cooled hood idk if that matters. I keep the t-5 about 6 inches above the plants. my license allows me to have 12 plants under a ft and 4 maturing plants. I do have a separate area for the clones but since this was my first rn and the grow tent had no flowering plants in it I just ran the seedlings in there. im confused about where you start talking about flushing. I know I have some flushing solution im supposed to use like two weeks before harvest is that what you are referring to? I was told to LST instead of SOG? can I get a pros and cons of each?

hi. i just want to ask if the fans and others are included if you buy a system in growtronix. hoping for a reply thanks!

im not 100% sure what your asking, I did not buy this setup as a set I bought everything individually, most of it was from a small grow store in woodland WA, they have great prices, they ship anywhere and they will give a huge discount. My whole set up cost about 1800$ I got 300$ off and 2 free 400 watt bulbs 1 MH and 1 HPS, they also threw in free nutes, ph test kit, trim scissors, flushing solution and cloning gel, along with free shipping, it was a great experience and i love all the equipment. I can post their number or website if anyone is interested in checking them out.

Ok 4 flowering 12 under a foot

yes when u get the MH light put them all under it .........MH light makes the nodes grow small and compact so this will help keep u under the 1 foot limit that is imposed

the pics below are for u to help ..........2 pages of lingo with pics (help u know what we are saying and sex your plant)
2 pages of light distances (mh and hps) 1 page to explain the light waves ( 6500k is growth(mh) 2700k is flower(hps))


use the page with the lingo tos ex your plants ...............after about 3 week to 4 weeks of growth u can sex it (females has 2 little hairs stick out at every node and branching on the plant )

when u sex them female ....number those so u can keep reacords of the exps u try
pick the one u will use as a mother and move her into a big pot and into the mothering tent (this tent will be short squat ) this will be over 1 foot ....put it in that tent and keep it running on 18/6 under blue likgh 6500k ..............never done this but i heard mothers are good for 3 clippings .....(a bunch of cliping but only 3 times total 1 time heals grows more 2nd time heals grows 3rd time after that move to the flowering tent let it grow and flower replace the mother)


here is something u should know ............MH keeps them short but the HPS makes them strech .......when u grow the plants get them to 1/3 1/2 the over all size u want then change it to flowering .........they will fill up the rest of the room in that stage to long in growth too big of a flower i had to cut off the main cola in a plant that took a whole 4x4x6 tent for itself

pictures are very helpful I appreciate all the input!

what should I expect for a yield? I understand its a large range im dealing with but can someone give me an idea?

Very strain Dependant. What are the genetics?

all information in this post is purely fictional and must be taken as such.

that light ..........anywhere from 3 to 5 oz a plant .............more once u learn the strains demands

one is B-52 the other is Cinex

Yeah I would say if you get a few zips your first go you've done well. Just remember the basics all new growers need to remember..... Keep calm and let her grow! Don't over water, over feed and let that lady veg for a good bit. More branches = more buds. Stick her ass in the scrog and let her do her thing. Focus on the health of the plant and she'll do you good. Those are both described as high yielding strains so best of luck!

all information in this post is purely fictional and must be taken as such.

Thanks for the help guys, but I ran into a problem! I was in my grow room and I watered a plant and about 5 gnats crawled out of the soil.... I read that they can be harmful in large numbers and I really just don't want them around at all. I got a sticky trap and some sand, I heard if you put sand on top of the soil it will help a lot, another thing I read was to mix "soap" with your next watering and that will help. should I try the soap next time I water? what type of soap(im assuming an organic one?)? what consequences am I looking at for killing these gnats?

Pepper Spray of Death

it kills bugs and repels noisey ppl .............crash course fall the directions do not boil it ........if the steam or any of it gets on u use MILK not water ....water makes it hurt more MILK is the only way to stop it

if one of your buddies goes i can take it i can take it bet them 100 bucks they can not sec they ask for the milk they lost ...........go outside and spray him once in the face collect your 100 bucks

The Habanera Pepper (sometimes pronounced Habenero) is the key ingredient in pepper spray. Once you make a batch of CALICLEAN you'll see why. One may buy habanera peppers in any vegetable section for about 6 dollars a pound. The peppers are light orange to dark red, and are about the size of a bic lighter when fully mature, most are half that size. Go buy a pound, now!!! If you have mites, time is of the essence.

NOTICE: The spray you make is not harmful to humans (hab peppers are an ingredient in all really good south of the border salsas), but irritating to mucus membranes and soft tissues, it will make you cough - as its like breathing chili powder, so use care.

"GEE, MY PLANT LEAVES ARE DOTTED WITH WHITE SPOTS AND TURNING PALE OR YELLOW."
If you have taken a powerful magnifying glass to the underside of your plant's leaves you will have seen the little off-yellow dots with a brown center that move about slowly over the plant leafs and veins - the mature mites. These big mites leave web-strands like other spiders. Web strands between leaf and stems (as they cross back and forth to new vulnerable leaves), and between leaf serrations are indications of a healthy infestation and big mites on your plants. You may also have seen almost too-hard-to-see little brown dots crawling slowly about. These are the baby mites that will grow into big suckers. You may also have seen groups of little white dots near the central leaf brachiation and the main leaf veins. These are clutches of mite eggs. They will soon hatch and produce up to 80 mites per clutch, per mature mite. You are screwed if you do nothing. But fret not, you can save your plants, and they will recover and thrive - with diligence.

HERE IS WHAT TO DO

Making the Calicleaner

1.) Get a sauce pan - fill with one pint of water - put on lowest flame possible (do not boil !!!).
2.) Chop 4 -5 Habanera peppers fine. Chop open seeds and central membranes, as the power lies there.
3.) Simmer chopped peppers for 20 minutes - making sure not to boil (you will destroy the active proteins).
4.) When you put your head over the pan and the wispy-steam stings your eyes, the Calicleaner is ready.
5.) Pour the Calicleaner through a fine mesh strainer - a little fine grit is OK - let cool in a clean bowl.
6.) Pour room temperature contents in a mister spray bottle. Your are ready to apply.

HOW TO APPLY Calicleaner
1.) Put on gloves, and wear a mask, or at least put a bandana around your nose and mouth.
2.) Turn off all fans - you do not want this spray in your eyes!!!
3.) Spray the bottom of EVERY leaf - starting with the bottom leaves first, work up to the top.
4.) After the bottoms are done, hit the tops and the stems.
5.) Squirt liberally in new leaf pods - tightly wound new leaf growth (the small mites hide there).
6.) Get the heck out of the room till it clears.
7.) Repeat procedure with each plant.
8.) Spray the soil, the pots, and the floor or earth around the area to kill dropping mites and stop migration.
9.) Wash hands with soap and water when complete - the stuff will heat-up skin for 4 hours.
10.) DO NOT WORRY. Though the stuff is lethal to mites, the plants love it.

WHAT’S NEXT??

Congratulations! You have successfully killed the mites that you sprayed - on contact!. Plus, the mites are thwarted in biting again as they get a lethal dose of hot mouth. Your plants should be turning green again with in half a day. Though the leaves are scarred, they will recover and work again - producing vital sugars for growth.

However, you are not done. Some mites will escape the spray, though you have killed 95% of them. Thus, you will have to do the spray again tomorrow. As a matter of fact you will have to spray every 2-3 days till you see no more mites - usually up to two weeks. SOME EGGS WILL HATCH!!! Thus a week after the first spray, do a super job again, the baby mites are likely out and about. Kill 'em right away.

Use your magnifying glass to inspect each plant carefully, when nothing moves and you see no more webs, your plants are clear. YEAH!!

Additional precautions: make sure your containers and pots do not touch, mites migrate. Clean your floors and equipment so live mites do not return (spray them down with Caliclean). Since no person can kill every living mite in their situation, eternal diligence is now part of the equation. One mite may turn into a million in a month.

Other helpful hints: wash your plants with clean water spray between sprayings, this cleans off dead mites and eggs, and refreshes the plant leaf compromised by the vampire sucking mites. Keep the room cool, 78 degrees to 68 degrees if possible during treatment. Mites hate the cold - thus weakened mites will drop dead. If lower leaves are infested with eggs and mites - cut them off! DO NOT LEAVE CUTTINGS NEARBY! Burn or bury your cuttings far away.

Spraying notes: Mites tend to collect where the leaves join at the nexus and overlap. If you can, lay your plants on-end or position upsidedown (be real careful) to make sure all undersides are sprayed. Cut off curled leaves where they collect. If you're a rich person you may make a full pound to ten gallons of water and dunk them - even better!!

The best part of using Calicleaner is you may use it always - even during flowering. As the solution is all natural, no one is harmed but the mites: "Nature to deal with Nature." Your money goes to a farmer not a chemical corporation.

Caliclean works,

Check often; check carefully; your plants will thank you with fine flowering! Be good to your Natural Medicine, and it will be good to you.

Good Luck and best wishes, "How Ni Kan, Megwetch," Peace be with you always,

Calibuzz

Yes sand works well .. The soap spray works well for mites on leaves...but then again so does a few ladybugs.



all information in this post is purely fictional and must be taken as such.

I don't think I have mites, just gnats so do I need that pepper spray or will I be fine with drying the soil a bit extra and applying sand?

In my experience sand works well. Just cover the top well.

all information in this post is purely fictional and must be taken as such.

the spray kills everything ...........even stink bugs but the side effect for a week or 2 the area is still hot meaning u touch something in there wrong way touch your face u get it ......like poison ivy oils

i never used sand as a method just that stuff ........had 2 plants get them ...........i hit the tent with it and then water the plants down so the soil was well packed down them used paint brush (new one never used 1 inch) and swept the soil to remove the loose stuff and dead bugs

no issuse since the stuff is hidden so i aviod spraying ppl or myself again .............hence the milk is the only thing that works ( the same with the cop pepper spray how i learned the milk in the first place)