East Coast Growing

bud nugbong

Well-Known Member
thank you all for your support and help.:clap:

Im kinda scared to transfer them from the bucket to the ground. Has anyone ever transferred after they started growing.

if you are going to transplant them make sure they are big enough where the roots have gotten to the outside of the bucket. this way it all comes out in one piece rather than falling apart and possibly ripping some roots. Ive never done a 5 gal solo. usually thats a 2 man job. unless you can hold the bucket w/ your feet and pull her out.
 

Mr.Therapy Man 2

Active Member
About half this site are east coasters,Im from Tennessee and Ive got two guys on here that live pretty close to me.Ive actually met both these guys at our hydro stores and swapped cuts a few times.
 

allamay1608

Well-Known Member
thanks everyone for you responses. I'm happy to let you know that I planted my first bucket last night.

Special shout out to tristyanhawk. If im ever close by Beer and Tacos on me.

Thanks :clap:
 

RDGgreenthumb

Well-Known Member
I dont think anyone answered your question bout bugs? U mentioned "BP" what youre actually referring to is BT whos scientific name is Bacillus thuringiensis. (All info taken from wikipedia, check the sources yourself) Spores and crystalline insecticidal proteins produced by B. thuringiensis have been used to control insect pests since the 1920s.[11] They are now used as specific insecticides under trade names such as Dipel and Thuricide. Because of their specificity, these pesticides are regarded as environmentally friendly, with little or no effect on humans, wildlife, pollinators, and most other beneficial insects. B. thuringiensis-based insecticides are often applied as liquid sprays on crop plants, where the insecticide must be ingested to be effective. It is thought that the solubilized toxins form pores in the midgut epithelium of susceptible larvae. Recent research has suggested that the midgut bacteria of susceptible larvae are required for B. thuringiensis insecticidal activity.

So BT is good and alot of people use it.

And onto Spinosad : Spinosad (spinosyn A and spinosyn D) are a new chemical class of insecticides that are registered by the United States Environmental Protection Agency‎ (EPA) to control a variety of insects. The active ingredient is derived from a naturally occurring soil dwelling bacterium called Saccharopolyspora spinosa, a rare actinomycete reportedly collected from soil in an abandoned rum distillery on a Caribbean Island in 1982 by a scientist on vacation.[1] It has not been found in nature since that time, and was subsequently described as a new species.Spinosad kills susceptible species by causing rapid excitation of the insect nervous system. Due to this unique mode of action, Spinosad is valued in resistance management programs. Spinosad must be ingested by the insect, therefore it has little effect on non-target predatory insects. It is highly effective used as an oral anti-flea medication for dogs, and apparently has the potential for killing any blood-sucking insect. Spinosad is relatively fast acting. The insect dies within one to two days after ingesting the active ingredient. There appears to be 100% mortality.
It is used to control a variety of insect pests, including fruit flies, caterpillars, leafminers, thrips, sawflies, spider mites, fire ants, and leaf beetle larvae.

Spinosad does not significantly affect beneficial organisms including ladybugs, green lacewings, minute pirate bugs, and predatory mites.
Spinosad shows low toxicity when ingested by mammals (male rat LD[SIZE=-1]50[/SIZE] = 3738 mg/kg) and no additional adverse effects from chronic exposure. Studies on spinosad show slight toxicity to birds, moderate toxicity to fish, and slight to moderate toxicity to aquatic invertebrates. However, it is highly toxic to bees (honey bee LC50 = 11.5 ppm) and is highly toxic to oysters and other marine mollusks. Applications to areas where bees are actively foraging should be avoided. After the residues have dried, it is much less toxic to bees.

That was spinosad. Very effective i'd say.
Ill add one more to the list and this is the product that I use with great success and also another organic insectiside. It's called Azadirachtin, and marketed by general hydroponics company as Azamax. Heres the info. :

Azadirachtin is a chemical compound belonging to the limonoids. It is a secondary metabolite present in the neem tree seeds. It is now known to affect over 200 species of insect, by acting mainly as an antifeedant and growth disruptor, and as such it possesses considerable toxicity toward insects. It fulfills many of the criteria needed for a natural insecticide if it is to replace synthetic compounds. Azadirachtin is biodegradable (it degrades within 100 hours when exposed to light and water) and shows very low toxicity to mammals (the LD[SIZE=-1]50[/SIZE] in rats is > 3,540 mg/kg making it practically non-toxic). This compound is found in the seeds (0.2 to 0.8 percent by weight) of the neem tree, Azadirachta indica (hence the prefix aza does not imply an aza compound, but refers to the scientific species name). Many more compounds, related to azadirachtin, are present in the seeds as well as in the leaves and the bark of the neem tree which also show strong biological activities among various pest insects [2][3] Effects of these preparations on beneficial arthropods are generally considered to be minimal. Some laboratory and field studies have found neem extracts to be compatible with biological control.

So thats a light reading on these thre differrent insectisides. Whichever you choose will work very well as long as they are applied correctly. I only prefer using Azadirachtin (azamax) because of the great number of insects it kills and the fact that it not only kills the mature insects on contact but after they feed on my plant which was treated they will then return to their larva infecting them with the azadirachtin and prohibitng the larva from maturing into the bugs we all hate.
Hope this helps hit me up with any questions! RDG
 

allamay1608

Well-Known Member
I dont think anyone answered your question bout bugs? U mentioned "BP" what youre actually referring to is BT whos scientific name is Bacillus thuringiensis. (All info taken from wikipedia, check the sources yourself) Spores and crystalline insecticidal proteins produced by B. thuringiensis have been used to control insect pests since the 1920s.[11] They are now used as specific insecticides under trade names such as Dipel and Thuricide. Because of their specificity, these pesticides are regarded as environmentally friendly, with little or no effect on humans, wildlife, pollinators, and most other beneficial insects. B. thuringiensis-based insecticides are often applied as liquid sprays on crop plants, where the insecticide must be ingested to be effective. It is thought that the solubilized toxins form pores in the midgut epithelium of susceptible larvae. Recent research has suggested that the midgut bacteria of susceptible larvae are required for B. thuringiensis insecticidal activity.

So BT is good and alot of people use it.

And onto Spinosad : Spinosad (spinosyn A and spinosyn D) are a new chemical class of insecticides that are registered by the United States Environmental Protection Agency‎ (EPA) to control a variety of insects. The active ingredient is derived from a naturally occurring soil dwelling bacterium called Saccharopolyspora spinosa, a rare actinomycete reportedly collected from soil in an abandoned rum distillery on a Caribbean Island in 1982 by a scientist on vacation.[1] It has not been found in nature since that time, and was subsequently described as a new species.Spinosad kills susceptible species by causing rapid excitation of the insect nervous system. Due to this unique mode of action, Spinosad is valued in resistance management programs. Spinosad must be ingested by the insect, therefore it has little effect on non-target predatory insects. It is highly effective used as an oral anti-flea medication for dogs, and apparently has the potential for killing any blood-sucking insect. Spinosad is relatively fast acting. The insect dies within one to two days after ingesting the active ingredient. There appears to be 100% mortality.
It is used to control a variety of insect pests, including fruit flies, caterpillars, leafminers, thrips, sawflies, spider mites, fire ants, and leaf beetle larvae.

Spinosad does not significantly affect beneficial organisms including ladybugs, green lacewings, minute pirate bugs, and predatory mites.
Spinosad shows low toxicity when ingested by mammals (male rat LD[SIZE=-1]50[/SIZE] = 3738 mg/kg) and no additional adverse effects from chronic exposure. Studies on spinosad show slight toxicity to birds, moderate toxicity to fish, and slight to moderate toxicity to aquatic invertebrates. However, it is highly toxic to bees (honey bee LC50 = 11.5 ppm) and is highly toxic to oysters and other marine mollusks. Applications to areas where bees are actively foraging should be avoided. After the residues have dried, it is much less toxic to bees.

That was spinosad. Very effective i'd say.
Ill add one more to the list and this is the product that I use with great success and also another organic insectiside. It's called Azadirachtin, and marketed by general hydroponics company as Azamax. Heres the info. :

Azadirachtin is a chemical compound belonging to the limonoids. It is a secondary metabolite present in the neem tree seeds. It is now known to affect over 200 species of insect, by acting mainly as an antifeedant and growth disruptor, and as such it possesses considerable toxicity toward insects. It fulfills many of the criteria needed for a natural insecticide if it is to replace synthetic compounds. Azadirachtin is biodegradable (it degrades within 100 hours when exposed to light and water) and shows very low toxicity to mammals (the LD[SIZE=-1]50[/SIZE] in rats is > 3,540 mg/kg making it practically non-toxic). This compound is found in the seeds (0.2 to 0.8 percent by weight) of the neem tree, Azadirachta indica (hence the prefix aza does not imply an aza compound, but refers to the scientific species name). Many more compounds, related to azadirachtin, are present in the seeds as well as in the leaves and the bark of the neem tree which also show strong biological activities among various pest insects [2][3] Effects of these preparations on beneficial arthropods are generally considered to be minimal. Some laboratory and field studies have found neem extracts to be compatible with biological control.

So thats a light reading on these thre differrent insectisides. Whichever you choose will work very well as long as they are applied correctly. I only prefer using Azadirachtin (azamax) because of the great number of insects it kills and the fact that it not only kills the mature insects on contact but after they feed on my plant which was treated they will then return to their larva infecting them with the azadirachtin and prohibitng the larva from maturing into the bugs we all hate.
Hope this helps hit me up with any questions! RDG
:clap: thank you.
 

allamay1608

Well-Known Member
Anyone know how long a germination takes. I put the seeds in wet paper towels and then in plastic bags. Then i put them on top of my water heater last night around 12 midnight. Do you think they will be done by tonight?
 

Logz24

Member
They could take a couple days, sometimes a couple more. Ive grown on the east coast for the last five years outside(actually got a spring crop right before i moved this year) anyways i never had any problems with bugs. Ive planted in containers and in the ground. The containers get too hot and if your going to bury them, why not just dig a hole n the first place. Also i planted in 5 gal buckets, germinated/ planted in july an they were rootbound by oct. (in VA). they also suffered heat stress. I would recommend planting directly in the ground in 2ft x 2ft holes and if you can bring in bag soil. if you cant, you need to amend the soil with bone meal blood meal, lime, and perlite. Ive used chemical ferts but much prefer the taste of organics. I would buy some powdered guano in both high N and high P and use it as a top dressing. You should do fine out there on the East Coast
 

allamay1608

Well-Known Member
They could take a couple days, sometimes a couple more. Ive grown on the east coast for the last five years outside(actually got a spring crop right before i moved this year) anyways i never had any problems with bugs. Ive planted in containers and in the ground. The containers get too hot and if your going to bury them, why not just dig a hole n the first place. Also i planted in 5 gal buckets, germinated/ planted in july an they were rootbound by oct. (in VA). they also suffered heat stress. I would recommend planting directly in the ground in 2ft x 2ft holes and if you can bring in bag soil. if you cant, you need to amend the soil with bone meal blood meal, lime, and perlite. Ive used chemical ferts but much prefer the taste of organics. I would buy some powdered guano in both high N and high P and use it as a top dressing. You should do fine out there on the East Coast
I got 5 gallon buckets also. What do you mean they were rootbound by october.

When i bury them in 2ft x 2ft i should put soil around the bucket?

thanks man
 

Logz24

Member
I got 5 gallon buckets also. What do you mean they were rootbound by october.

When i bury them in 2ft x 2ft i should put soil around the bucket?

thanks man
I meant dig a 2X2 hole and plant directly in it. All im saying is the pots, especially if they are black heat up so fast that you have to water them constantly and they get heat stress. And they were sooo rootbound by harvest time they were requiring constant watering and definitely couldnt take up nutrients like they could have if they were in the ground where there roots are alot cooler and can actually function and do their job instead of living in an extremely hot environment all day. if you are going to keep them in the bucket, i would dig a hole wherever you are putting them outside and put some soil in it and knock the bottom out of the bucket and plant it in the hole. I think i could have gotten a better harvest if i did that.
 

Logz24

Member
also if the buckets are white they dont get AS hot but they will allow light to reach your roots which is not a good thing.
 
upstate. Anyone can tell me anything on a 3 leaf plant? started one from seed; but Boston Terrier dragged it through yard at very early stage. amybe 2 months ago. see has survived and now starting to grow and looking healthy is this a special type?
 

bud nugbong

Well-Known Member
i grew a plant from seed one time and it only put out 3 leaves for most of the time but it did have like 2-3 5 bladed leaves. i thought it was strange and i think i still have it in a pals veg room.(a clone thats grown up now) im pretty sure it was WW. and i always liked it because i felt like less blades would let the light penetrate to lower leaves especially indoors.
 

average grow

Active Member
I'm growing a little south of you in the NJ pine barrens. One mistake i made that i want to tell you before you make it is that you have to watch the suns path in the sky and see if any surrounding trees will block the sun from your plants. I didn't do this i just went back one morning found a sunny spot in the woods and started digging. It was only when one of my plants was half the size as the others that i realized a tree was blocking out the sun for 4 hours on that plant. Now i have to cut it down.
 
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