Ducting Question With Diagram

Good afternoon, I have this diagram I snatched from another thread and I'd like to know if anybody vents their room with the exact method. Meaning, do you suck air through the carbon filter, through the fan, then push the air from the fan through the cool tube and out of the tent/grow box. So it would look like this {SCRUBBER => FAN => COOL TUBE => OUTSIDE}. The diagram below will show exactly what I'm talking about.

LayYouIn said:

yes.

here's the new design...

...would that work with these items...

High Tech Garden Supply - CoolTube 6" Reflector


High Tech Garden Supply - GrowBright 4" Inline Fan

Elf charcoal filter from 4 hydroponics.com by Growco Indoor Garden Supply - Elf Charcoal Filter

...?

Click to expand...

I'm looking for info from anybody who has implemented this successfully or not. I'm in an attic using a 36"x22"x64" HTG tent. I have it insulated up to about an R-24 value with direct ducting from my air handler. The temps with 8 CFL's in it hit a maximum of 77 degrees. After I changed to a Metal Halide setup for vegging, the temps went to 88F peak. I'm already using the 4" fan linked in that quote and the same carbon filter as well. I'm getting the cool tube that is also linked tomorrow and I'm going to vent exactly how it is shown above. I'm using a 250W MH/HPS setup as well and there are already 2 plants veggin in this tent, both about 2wks old. Everything is at the top of the tent with very minimal ducting, probably 3ft of duct in total. If you have any info to help me out, please post, DON'T BE SHY! Thanks ladies and fellas.

--ahriman

Havent doen it, but that is the approach i would take if i had the same scenerio.

FullMetalJacket said:

Havent doen it, but that is the approach i would take if i had the same scenerio.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, I'm gonna install the cool tube tomorrow then I'll take some pics and maybe put together a mini-guide or something so anybody else with my growing limitations will be able to reference what I've already done.

And they said an attic grow couldn't be done!

I would put the fan outside of the tent...make it pull from the end of the run.....this way you arent pushing any warm air into the cool tube and you have the fan out of the tent...fans create heat

Hi,

I recently created a thread similar to this asking for help, yet despite me bumping it, noone seemed to be able to give me any answer Sooo... I just did a bit of thinking and this is what I came to: (excuse my poor MS paint rendering)



Basically, if the tent is air tight, then you draw outside air through the light to back outside. This creates a closed circuit of air that you will not have to worry about scrubbing. Then, you can just sit the carbon scrubber inside and let it scrub the room.

The reason I chose to do my room this way is because I am injecting CO2. Also, I have an A/C unit that further reduces the temperature of the room, as well as bringing in a but of fresh air.This method is a bit more expensive, but well worth it imo.


-AR

that's how my setup is too adrenaline...works wonders

to start why insulate it. you dont want to keep the heat in. the second guys diagram dosn`t make sence either. how do you have air circulating in the room if the intake goesthrough the filter and staight out with out going in the room first. i dont see an intake into the room only through the filter.
ahirman. when you get your cool tube put the filter on the intake end in the room. run a hose from the intake up to the highest point in the room to grab the heat and smells that rise. then it will go throught the cool tube and through a hose that goes out of the room and into the fan and out. keep the fan out of the room. get rid of the insulation and paint with flat white paint or use black/white plastic ( panda film )

adrenalinrush. do you have an intake staright into the room? you need to vent the co2 to much is not healthy

Heh, it's good to know that I am on the right track then.

bonz said:

adrenalinrush. do you have an intake staright into the room? you need to vent the co2 to much is not healthy

Click to expand...

Aye, I have the A/C unit drawing in air from the outside room. I do not, however, have an exhaust really... With an airtight room and air constantly being drawn in, I'm probably going to have to also build an exhaust, hey?


-AR

It is always good to have an exhaust system as well. If you just have a fresh intake not an exhaust system, you will just be trapping and recirculating stale air.

AdReNaLiNeRuSh said:

Heh, it's good to know that I am on the right track then.



Aye, I have the A/C unit drawing in air from the outside room. I do not, however, have an exhaust really... With an airtight room and air constantly being drawn in, I'm probably going to have to also build an exhaust, hey?


-AR

Click to expand...

exhaust before intake my friend...if I had to choose one or the other to set up first it would be exhaust

how do you get exhaust without an intake? all you would be doing is sucking all the o2 and co2 out of the room and killing the plant. you need both, the air should be changed every 3 to 5 minuites

bonz said:

the air should be changed every 3 to 5 minuites

Click to expand...

Really? I was planning on having the A/C constantly running, thusly always bringing in fresh air. For about 10 minutes out of the hour, I would have the exhaust running. Then, when the exhaust turns off, I would have the CO2 kick in for about 20 minutes or so. The remaining ~30 minutes of the hour would consist of the CO2 air just chillin' in there. Should I switch it up?


-AR

i would have my exhaust running more so that you could get the air exchanged better. it would be ok to leave a/c on all the time as long as your temps aren`t to low. then work your co2 into that schedule some how. i dont know enough about the co2 to tell you how much to give. i know that to much is not good for us so it needs to be exhausted to.
i just use a bottle of sugar and yeast with water for my co2, but the more i read about it i see it`s not enough to make it worth it this way. it`s not worth the investment for me

Man if you guys have AC and air filtering the internal air and supplementing with C02 you dont need the intakes and ehausts there people speak of.

I only use an exhuase for humidty control.

Look for CGE grows...none of them have intakes/exhausts.

AdReNaLiNeRuSh said:

Hi,

I recently created a thread similar to this asking for help, yet despite me bumping it, noone seemed to be able to give me any answer Sooo... I just did a bit of thinking and this is what I came to: (excuse my poor MS paint rendering)

Basically, if the tent is air tight, then you draw outside air through the light to back outside. This creates a closed circuit of air that you will not have to worry about scrubbing. Then, you can just sit the carbon scrubber inside and let it scrub the room.

The reason I chose to do my room this way is because I am injecting CO2. Also, I have an A/C unit that further reduces the temperature of the room, as well as bringing in a but of fresh air.This method is a bit more expensive, but well worth it imo.


-AR

Click to expand...

Thanks for the input. I wish I could do it that way, because that is without question the best way to do it. My problem is that my tent is set up in the attic and its insulated, so to pull attic air through the tube and back out of the tent would do little good, since the attic hits 120 degrees during some days.

bonz said:

to start why insulate it. you dont want to keep the heat in. the second guys diagram dosn`t make sence either. how do you have air circulating in the room if the intake goesthrough the filter and staight out with out going in the room first. i dont see an intake into the room only through the filter.
ahirman. when you get your cool tube put the filter on the intake end in the room. run a hose from the intake up to the highest point in the room to grab the heat and smells that rise. then it will go throught the cool tube and through a hose that goes out of the room and into the fan and out. keep the fan out of the room. get rid of the insulation and paint with flat white paint or use black/white plastic ( panda film )

adrenalinrush. do you have an intake staright into the room? you need to vent the co2 to much is not healthy

Click to expand...

Sorry, I should have been more clear. I'm using a grow tent, so the inside is already covered with white mylar. Also, I have an A/C duct straight from the air handler in my house feeding the tent so it always has fresh air from inside. I leave the air handler fan in the ON position, so its always pumping. This works well, and the air handler blower fan is only 300watts, so its no big deal. This setup works really really well for keeping the tent cool, and it has to be air tight and insulated so that the 120 degree attic air and moisture doesn't get inside. The insulation is on the outside of the tent.

I think I'm gonna go with Honkeytown's suggestion and put the fan outside and have it pull air across the filter and cooltube so that the fan doesn't add heat to the grow room. This is gonna work well I think and I will put up some pictures once its finished. I'm riding down to HTG in Melbourne today to snag a cool tube, so we'll see how it goes! Thanks for all the input guys, you're great.

Mate, I hope you won't but I think you are going to have issues with the way you are trying to do this

First off, I have a 3x3x7 sealed space in the garage @ about 76 degrees ambient. My space is insulated too about R6, but keep in mind it is wood construction, not a tent.
I have a designated widow type ac for this space and it comes on every 4 min. about in order to maintain my temps at about 81 degrees, it runs like 4 min. off 1 min on. Keep in mind AC also deals with dehumidification if done right! My light is completely isolated from my grow cab (I use co2 in a sealed enviro)
Your AC will not be sufficient I think the way it is run at this point. It lacks the necessary control you need. I would assume that your t-stat is somewhere in your house close to the air intake, which in turn means that your t-stat is rendered useless for your grow area, since it does not know what the temps are in your grow space. At best you will be wasting tremendous amounts of energy since you have to set the t-stat at an very low arbitrary temperature in order to make sure that you are not going out of range. This would mean that your house temps get waaaaay to low, and your ac unit will most likely ice up due to not cyceling off enough. There are ways , but by far the cheapest, best way would be to get a little indevidual window unit (check my grow cab/https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/86604-grow-space-build-sealed-no.html , maybe like 5000 or 6000 btu.

I think you may be able to make your set-up work somewhat, but your parameters will suck, you will not be able to use co2 due to the perpetual exhausting you are doing. I disagree with Bonz, Co2 injection is rather scientific and certain parameters need to be maintained in order for co2 to make a difference.
A good scinario would be:
Lights on:
Temp:81-83 (w. co2 only! IT NEEDS THE HIGHER TEMPS IN ORDER FOR THE STOMATA'S TO OPEN MORE AND UTILIZE THE CO2)
Humidity 50-60%
Co2 1100-1500 maintained with a controller (below 800ppm co2 will not make a difference, above 1500 will not give much added benefit. The shit is expensive so why waste it!

I do not exhaust during lights on, but I do run a intake in conjunction with and exhaust system that comes on during lights off. (Back-draft dampers are needed here so you do not loose your co2 during lights on.

Hope this helps somewhat, I'm sure I have left things out, but I'm happy to help out if I can!

Unity

just curious what part of my post you dissagree with. i do believe i said i didn`t know enough about co2 to give an answer for that?

bonz said:

just curious what part of my post you dissagree with. i do believe i said i didn`t know enough about co2 to give an answer for that?

Click to expand...

Sorry about that Bonz , I disagreed with this portion:

" i dont know enough about the co2 to tell you how much to give. i know that to much is not good for us so it needs to be exhausted to."

I think I misread though, I thought you were advising to constantly exhaust your co2. But after I read it and your other posts again I retract and stand corrected kiss-ass

I do not run my exhaust/intake fans until lights off. Co2 becomes toxic to the plants at about 2000ppm, that's why a counter controller is a must in my opinion. Even though I would be more concerned with insufficient amount of co2 then too much, especially if you are using 'organic mater' in making the co2. Keep in mind that a plant will increase its co2 consumption by about 20x from seedling to mature.
So running the exhaust while injecting co2 would be a tremendous waste.

Unity

hey no ass kiss. lol. i need to run my fan all the time when light is on because of heat. i dont have an ac, and need one.