Dual Areoponic Cabinet, Ceramic Metal Halide

SomeGuy

SomeGuy

Well-Known Member
phreakygoat said:
ty that screen is gonna work great for the different plants, i might even suggesting a more severe/tall curve, cause those TW really get tall so fast in budding, compared to the pk. your garden is looking healthier than ever :peace:
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I would second this. Seems like you could go up the walls a little more. You gave me great advise about doing the back wall as well. I think you should give it a go too and kind of fashion a bowl to work with around the light. Just throwing ideas out. You really got me going about screening a bunch more and growing up the side walls. I cant wait for chop so I can modify and put the the god bud and sour berry in there. Cruizer... seriously, you got me excited about this cabinet growing again. Its kinda been mechanical for the last six months.
 
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cruzer101

Well-Known Member
SomeGuy said:
:bigjoint:you caught me! LOL.. Yes, I have 4 55w 4pin bulbs in that one fixture. I had two separate lights in my original arrangement. I decided to take both fixtures and combine them into one. I run 2 2700k bulbs and 2 6500k bulbs. Been pulling about 2 to 2.5 oz every round on the flouro. Not too shabby but a 250w hps would pull more I think. But hey, I am making what I got work for now. :)
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Ok, that makes sense.
So by combining the lights you get about 20k lumnes, spread out well, using 220 watts. Seems like a great temp too, 50/50 like that.

Counting the CFL's I am at about 15k lumnens and the same temp/wattage. But I am about out of space. Thats a good idea combining those lamps into one hood.

I checked it out, I could do the same thing as you and get 20k lumnes.
I could get about 29k lumnes from a single 250w hps.
Or 2 150w HPS at 16k ea and get 32k lumnes spread out better.

The cost is about the same $175 with shipping

Question is, would HPS work any better then what you got.
Sure you are using 20k in lumnes but the surface area of light is much larger.
You are getting the 20k to the whole screen, it's not tapering off like a hps would.
Less heat issues and no real need to worry about penetration power of floros with a screen.

I think I am talking myself into copying yours.
 
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cruzer101

Well-Known Member
phreakygoat said:
this is why i love this site... parabolic screens and reflector test pictures...
but seriously that screen is gonna work great for the different plants, i might even suggesting a more severe/tall curve, cause those TW really get tall so fast in budding, compared to the pk. your garden is looking healthier than ever :peace:
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Good suggestion goat but I dont have the room. Besides when you think about it plants grow up anyway, I wouldnt be gaining anything really, just something to tie to and by that point I would think I would want the buds on the sides to point towards the light. If I could move the wall out some I could do it but then I would need a 600w lamp. LOL Maybe in the future.
 
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cruzer101

Well-Known Member
SomeGuy said:
I would second this. Seems like you could go up the walls a little more. You gave me great advise about doing the back wall as well. I think you should give it a go too and kind of fashion a bowl to work with around the light. Just throwing ideas out. You really got me going about screening a bunch more and growing up the side walls. I cant wait for chop so I can modify and put the the god bud and sour berry in there. Cruizer... seriously, you got me excited about this cabinet growing again. Its kinda been mechanical for the last six months.
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Yea, I know what you mean.
Cool keep those ideas comming.
I did think about it. a screen on the back would only benefit me if I could move my light forward about 6 inches. That way light would be evenly spread over more surface area. I cant do that and close the doors. As it is when I close the doors they touch the yellow end of the light. I plan on somehow attaching ducting to the door so when it closes it draws air from the bottom of the cab instead of the canopy area. I will need that in the summer when I get more heat and less humidity.

You mentioned after the first of the year you are going to make a new setup. If its a new location on ground floor consider what I did for ventlation. Cut a hole in the floor for intake and go out a window. It rocks man. I am talkin 15° difference. Not to mention the added CO2 from the lower fresh air. It can be done pretty stealthy too. Just cut the hole the size of a floor regester, if you move the grow just put one on it. So what. Its a floor regester Lets in cool air in the summer.
 
SomeGuy

SomeGuy

Well-Known Member
cruzer101 said:
Question is, would HPS work any better then what you got. Sure you are using 20k in lumnes but the surface area of light is much larger. You are getting the 20k to the whole screen, it's not tapering off like a hps would.
Less heat issues and no real need to worry about penetration power of floros with a screen.

I think I am talking myself into copying yours.
Click to expand...
True but the flouros only really work well on a flat screen. With the hps you could do a second parabolic screen and probably produce more. The space I am working with for the flat screen is 15"x26" and that hood just barely covers it. If I had an hps with a parabolic screen I would have more area to work with around the light like my 400 cab.

cruzer101 said:
a screen on the back would only benefit me if I could move my light forward about 6 inches. That way light would be evenly spread over more surface area. I cant do that and close the doors. As it is when I close the doors they touch the yellow end of the light.
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I am in the same boat. My lamp hood barely fits in the cabinet (16" deep). I still think that the addition of some back screen might help. It is such a tight space I am not sure even light distribution is even a worry for me. We will see. I figure why not try it out once.

The new setup will be a custom box that can disassemble and be moved. I want something I can put in the corner of a garage or spare room with other junk near a window. Temps aren't too crazy here so I have been lucky with heat issues. When I finally own I will build a stealth room into the house...LOL

BTW! Day 1 of Week 9 today in the 400 cab. :)
 
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cruzer101

Well-Known Member
SomeGuy said:
True but the flouros only really work well on a flat screen. With the hps you could do a second parabolic screen and probably produce more. The space I am working with for the flat screen is 15"x26" and that hood just barely covers it. If I had an hps with a parabolic screen I would have more area to work with around the light like my 400 cab.

BTW! Day 1 of Week 9 today in the 400 cab. :)
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Thats true, Guess I got time to think about it.

Week 9 eh?
Dam near done.
 
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cruzer101

Well-Known Member
Temps 77 res 70°
PPM 400
PH 5.8

They got a new res today. Started them on flower nutes too. I'm going with Fox Farms again.
I flipped to 12/12 starting tonight. I have a lot of undergrowth already and I want to get that kickstarted. I figure the way they stretch if I flower now I can run them about a foot horizontal then let them go up. I topped these and I didnt top the others that I am comparing the stretch to but I guess it will stretch the same. The purple Kush I plan to train towards the center. I should be fine with that.

Heres some pics from a couple days ago.











Tonights shots.







They are a couple weeks into there rapid growth stage and growing fast.

The floro cab has hit its 8 weeks flower. I am going to let it go a couple more weeks and finish up.
New res today PPM 800 Ph 5.9
This will be there last feeding.
 
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cruzer101

Well-Known Member
Earl said:
What's for dessert ?
Got Big bud or hammerhead ?
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I dont know how you do it Earl but you are right on the money again.
After this grow I will have plenty of TW so I am looking for another strain.

Big bud is one I am considering. I hadn't heard of the strain hammerhead. I know there is a new fertilizer out with more potassium called hammerhead. So anyway I googled it and couldnt find a seedbank that has it. I dont like fishy smell anyway and I read thats what it smells like.

I want good genetics so I was looking at Sensi seeds Big bud but now I am reading they outsource there breeding and you dont really know what you are getting. Lots of posts of people that are not happy so I backed off.

Nirvana is cheap and I have had decent luck with them in the past but I dont know. Pure power plant is another I am lookin at.

I think I would go with Dutch Passions Power plant instead of Nirvanas if that were the case. I am open for suggestions.
 
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cruzer101

Well-Known Member
DST said:
I'll second that!!

:peace: DST
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potpimp said:
Cruzer you always have the most beautifully healthy looking plants.
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Thanks guys.
I really think the only reason they do so well is I use very little nutrients. (thanks to Earl)
The only time I go full strength is once in the flowering period and thats the second week of flower. I have no documentation to back this up but I think that is where they need a boost. Then and about week six of flower I up it a little. Otherwise I am at half strength or less.
 
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cruzer101

Well-Known Member
I just wanted to share with you what DoeEyed shared with me in her post.
Its a pruning method where you make one simple cut and you are pretty much guaranteed four main colas.

If you havent heard about it, it's called Uncle Bens Topping method. Much more reliable then FIM. Basiclly what you do is grow your small plant, clone or seed, up to about 5 or six nodes. Then top it at the second node. The growth hormones that create the terminal cola are then split into the four remaining shoots and they all become terminal colas.

Its is a simple cut.
This is doeeyeds second grow ever and she did it no problem. I plan on trying it and then running them in the screen next grow.

Heres the link:
https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/151706-uncle-bens-topping-technique-get.html
 
Earl

Earl

Well-Known Member
This is what I had in mind for dessert



Shortening days will trigger many species of plants to begin to put their stored resources to work at creating reproductive tissues and structures. These blooming structures are soon to become the main growth-priority to finish as both temperature and light decrease further.

In response to diminished inputs, within the first weeks of a blooming cycle, plants quickly commit all their efforts to grow in one last push to complete blooming. Hammerhead is formulated to provide the primary and secondary nutrients that are essential to promoting this demanding, and exhaustive phase of growth that all annual plants attempt to do as they end their life cycle. \
Advanced Nutrients Hammerhead is formulated to deliver a booster-dose of potassium during the blooming phase of growth, along with a balanced ratio of phosphorus to magnesium, and sulphur. These are formulated into a liquid concentrate; Hammerhead is a specifically formulated liquid mineral-additive made to enhance the biosyntheses that increase and enhance floral yields.

Before you cut the nutes all the way off,
you should run a week of hammerhead @ 150ppm
.
 
phreakygoat

phreakygoat

Well-Known Member
looking great cruz! can't wait to see it, but in about a month I'll get to see how aero effects the formation of the kush buds... I also just got Kushie Kush ferts so i'll see how that goes (kush only fertalizer)

as to Uncle Ben's TM, I did that once having never heard of the official technique, wound up with more than ten main colas... great results
 
bringnthenoise

bringnthenoise

Active Member
I have a question for you...I have a surplus of 13 watt cfl's and i was thinking about making a miniature grow box just for early vegging. I was thinking I would putt 6 or 8 of those cfls in there. Do you think this will be sufficient light for the first couple weeks... and do you think this method will keep node spacing tight?
 
DoeEyed

DoeEyed

Well-Known Member
bringnthenoise said:
I have a question for you...I have a surplus of 13 watt cfl's and i was thinking about making a miniature grow box just for early vegging. I was thinking I would putt 6 or 8 of those cfls in there. Do you think this will be sufficient light for the first couple weeks... and do you think this method will keep node spacing tight?
Click to expand...
Yep that will work, just be sure to keep those babies right up close, within two inches of your seedlings.;-)
 
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cruzer101

Well-Known Member
Earl said:
This is what I had in mind for dessert



Shortening days will trigger many species of plants to begin to put their stored resources to work at creating reproductive tissues and structures. These blooming structures are soon to become the main growth-priority to finish as both temperature and light decrease further.

In response to diminished inputs, within the first weeks of a blooming cycle, plants quickly commit all their efforts to grow in one last push to complete blooming. Hammerhead is formulated to provide the primary and secondary nutrients that are essential to promoting this demanding, and exhaustive phase of growth that all annual plants attempt to do as they end their life cycle. \
Advanced Nutrients Hammerhead is formulated to deliver a booster-dose of potassium during the blooming phase of growth, along with a balanced ratio of phosphorus to magnesium, and sulphur. These are formulated into a liquid concentrate; Hammerhead is a specifically formulated liquid mineral-additive made to enhance the biosyntheses that increase and enhance floral yields.

Before you cut the nutes all the way off,
you should run a week of hammerhead @ 150ppm
.
Click to expand...

OK I gotcha now.
Yea, I looked at that and the cost of about $40 to get a quart with shipping. Didnt know how much I would use and thought it was more than 150ppms for a week or so and didnt know if it was worth it.

I will look again.
 
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