KitnerPush
Member
Which 400nm diode?`And that would probably fuk up the circuit, no? I'd be more tempted to add FR. I think voltage wise the Osram Square Reds are quite compatible, but their royal blue is 25% higer voltage.
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DiY LEDs - How to Power Them
- Thread starter SupraSPL
- Start date
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
If they are in series as you say then no probs with using different voltage, they just add up. Would be a hard board to aource drivers for though, 57-58V board.
KitnerPush
Member
Well the Nichia 405's are like 4V+... Not really an issue adding 2V, but wouldn't you have to do it to every circuit? and there are 6. But overall 660nm would take a hit?
KitnerPush
Member
I've decided though... I wouldn't add anything other than far red to the circuitry, unless there's a good argument that the 405 lifespan us the same, which ut seems there may be some doubt.
KitnerPush
Member
If they are running these boards at 314W DC/55v/5.6A for the HLG 350... that means you could get more out of 1 x QB648 by using a 200W driver. Yeah its not going to be as electrically efficient at lower wattages, but you're getting a lot more light by squeezing the white diodes from 77.77mA to 92.26mA. Those reds are rated at 700mA test current, which means if whites are run at 92.26mA, reds are running at only 553.6mA.
At these currents you are under half the maximum rated current for white, and only a little over a third the maximum rated current of red.
It's going to produce more heat at these currents... but not a shit-ton, and you're also getting a lot more red photons out of the red diodes.
I'd like to hear any arguments why this isn't better advice, when you can easily pick up a decent 200w driver for the price of a MW HLG?
At these currents you are under half the maximum rated current for white, and only a little over a third the maximum rated current of red.
It's going to produce more heat at these currents... but not a shit-ton, and you're also getting a lot more red photons out of the red diodes.
I'd like to hear any arguments why this isn't better advice, when you can easily pick up a decent 200w driver for the price of a MW HLG?
Pawtz
Well-Known Member
I bought this light around a year and a half ago as an open boxed unit.
I've used it probably for a day just for testing purposes when I first got it and it's sat for over a year since.
It worked 100% as it should when I last tested it.
I just recently am deciding to start another grow and decided against a 2x4 light and wanted to sell this one so I could purchase a 2x2 light instead.
Today, I pull the damn thing out to get some pictures for making an ebay auction in order to sell it and an entire row and then some went out.
So I figured I'm screwed now on getting anything of worth out of this since it now has issues.
QUESTION: Is there any way I can take off the panels and chop this thing in half to make a 2x2 light?
I have solder and can pick up spare wire to redo the connections, but I'm not sure how this driver would fare if I did all that.
I've used it probably for a day just for testing purposes when I first got it and it's sat for over a year since.
It worked 100% as it should when I last tested it.
I just recently am deciding to start another grow and decided against a 2x4 light and wanted to sell this one so I could purchase a 2x2 light instead.
Today, I pull the damn thing out to get some pictures for making an ebay auction in order to sell it and an entire row and then some went out.
So I figured I'm screwed now on getting anything of worth out of this since it now has issues.
QUESTION: Is there any way I can take off the panels and chop this thing in half to make a 2x2 light?
I have solder and can pick up spare wire to redo the connections, but I'm not sure how this driver would fare if I did all that.
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Just use it at half power, should work fine.
Pawtz
Well-Known Member
I need to fit it in a 2x2 area. I had plans for 4x2, but I turned that extra 2' of my closet into storage.
KitnerPush
Member
Dude, there are several diodes which are out on the left board. As Rocketsoul says, just cut it in half an discard the faulty side. Then run the positive and negative to the positive and negative on the driver an run half the power. You could probably use a wattmeter to know what wattage you're pulling.
In my opinion you're better off just buying a new board which is compatible with your driver.
Pawtz
Well-Known Member
Wasn't sure if rocket was referencing using it as is half power as to not trigger any other diodes.
If I can indeed cut it in half and use it within the 1-50% on the dimmer, then that would be great.
I'm not entirely sure how these diodes are configured on the board. Looks like it's just 1 circuit that
goes from the main point @ the top, channels to each diode, and then out the other end.
I'm looking at some new options that can work with my driver though if things do south.
Thanks.
EDIT: Just took those covers off. Had to drill out 2 stripped screws in the process.
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