DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

Vd22

Well-Known Member
Thank you so much.
7 is the max i can throw on the "B" driver correct? I do plan on getting c channels just for safety, but at what point would i not even need them? I thought running 7 in parallel would lower each strip to 30 watts =S


40 watts not 30
Ill definitely get the rapidled dim knob
 

chatoo123

Well-Known Member
It says that it's set to default 0-10 volt dimming an there is no usb outputs but I'm confused big time there are 2 diff. Ones one that's like a potentiometer an the other u hook up power to it an the dim wires to it. I got both coming I tried to hook it up regular and it barely puts out any volts and I put a 100 k potentiometer to it still the same so I'm hoping the 0-10 volt dimmers will work
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Thank you so much.
7 is the max i can throw on the "B" driver correct? I do plan on getting c channels just for safety, but at what point would i not even need them? I thought running 7 in parallel would lower each strip to 30 watts =S


40 watts not 30
Ill definitely get the rapidled dim knob
Sammy Strips are too soft and need more rigidity (plastic + 1oz copper) and therefore they always need an metallic area where you can attach them. At least a cookie sheet, better are C-channels. You can find them pretty cheap at e3ay.
A and B version have exact the same vF and current. The only difference is the 3-in-1 dimming. So it fits the same like with the other driver..
You can use a 7s circuit but you can also use 14 strips and a 7s2p circuit(2 strings á 7 strips, connected in parallel). Even 21 and a 7s3p circuit is possible. With two strings each strip would run with half the current(875mA), with 3 strings it would be a third (584mA). Twice as much strips and efficiency would go up to ~178lm/w. With 3 parallel strings efficiency goes up to around 186lm/w.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
It says that it's set to default 0-10 volt dimming an there is no usb outputs but I'm confused big time there are 2 diff. Ones one that's like a potentiometer an the other u hook up power to it an the dim wires to it. I got both coming I tried to hook it up regular and it barely puts out any volts and I put a 100 k potentiometer to it still the same so I'm hoping the 0-10 volt dimmers will work
There must be an issue with the connected LED's. How much forward voltage and current is mentioned as maximum and what type of LED's are in use and how are these connected?
Search and download the datasheet pdf for this specific driver. If you still need help upload it here and I'll have a look at it. There are also manuals available showing how to use Inventronics drivers.
 
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Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Your model has vf or 23-107v and default current is set to 2,8amps but can be set to 3,2amps. You could use 4 Luminus CXM22 connected in 2s2p. That means 2 COB's in series and this two times in parallel. Each COB would run with ~51v and 1,4A, thats ~75w for each COB.
You can also use 2pcs 4ft double row F-strips in series or 4pcs 2footers in 2s2p..
8 single row 2ft F-strips in 4s2p would work too..
 

whytewidow

Well-Known Member

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
How do you guys feel about using u/c channel aluminum like this?

Idk how deep your channel is. I'm sure it cools ok. But I'd watch to make sure your not blocking light with those sides. May need to open them up. If they are blocking. Idk what the led light angle is. For some reason I wanna say they are 120° which if they are you may be blocking light some. So you wouldnt have over lap between strips. But you may be ok. The sides might be short enough that it doesnt. Do the strips stay cool?
 

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
Nice lookn build either way. @Vd22

Are you running 7 strips on the 320h-1750ma?
7 of them on on a HLG-320h-24A would be 13.34a @24vdc for 320.16w

Running them at 1750ma on 24vdc is super low. Arent you only pushing 1.75a @24vdc only 42 watts? Or am I missing something? Lol
 

bleepboop

Well-Known Member
IMG_20181203_232637_940.JPG

Has anyone tried the lumileds sunplus horticultural COB range. reading the spec on the largest ones as the 'rose' spectrum looks like a good flowering booster w/ 301/561 boards. Would the ideal meanwell driver for a pair in parallel be one of the 54v ones? Say HLG 185/240H-54A

They're the same size fixture as citizen clu058 so mounting/heatsinks shouldn't be too tricky to track down.
 

topcatc

Member
Could someone help me with a light for a 6' by 4' room? Been reading about this for 2 days solid and my brain is bleeding at this point. :)
Aiming for 10 4' F-series gen 3 strips. (2240mA If 46Vf) and run them at around 1400mA to improve efficiency and temps. ( I guess that would be around 28Vf at that current?) Could someone suggest the best driver(s) combo for that? Would it be possible to passively cool at this current? I plan to mount everything on aluminium U channel or rectangular tube. Thanks.
 
Hey guys got about 15x vero 29 C (BXCR30e10k0-d73) Im wondering if I can power them by 4x meanwell hlg-320h-2100b or 1700B to light up 2x 3x3 flowering spaces low and ajustable height of the light (would go scrog or maybe sog), or if I need to purchase more cobs
cooling is oldschool supra style classic active :D
thank you very much and have a nice day brothers and sisters
 

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
It says that it's set to default 0-10 volt dimming an there is no usb outputs but I'm confused big time there are 2 diff. Ones one that's like a potentiometer an the other u hook up power to it an the dim wires to it. I got both coming I tried to hook it up regular and it barely puts out any volts and I put a 100 k potentiometer to it still the same so I'm hoping the 0-10 volt dimmers will work
To adjust that driver you have to buy a inventronics programmer. That hooks up between the driver and a computer. The software is free from their website. The part number for the programmer is PRG-MUL2 comes with USB cable to hook up the programmer. A pot will not work. I called inventronics yesterday. And the rapidled dimmer wont work either. If type in Inventronics programmer prg-mul2 in YouTube itll show you how to adjust it once you get the programmer.

Screenshot_20181204-072116_Chrome.jpg
 

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
@chatoo123 this is the only way to adjust the smart driver from inventronics. To be used with a pot it has to be a resistance dimmer driver and it isnt. Theres three companies that carry them futreelectronics out of Canada and two others.



The only places I could find the driver that will ship to usa.
Screenshot_20181207-130826_Chrome.jpg

Without this the driver can not be changed. They have an older programmer part number Sdd-aapnp I have a prg-mul2 on it's way now. You can set voltage and current. Without it whatever the driver is set at now can not be adjusted in anyway. Good luck.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Could someone help me with a light for a 6' by 4' room? Been reading about this for 2 days solid and my brain is bleeding at this point. :)
Aiming for 10 4' F-series gen 3 strips. (2240mA If 46Vf) and run them at around 1400mA to improve efficiency and temps. ( I guess that would be around 28Vf at that current?) Could someone suggest the best driver(s) combo for that? Would it be possible to passively cool at this current? I plan to mount everything on aluminium U channel or rectangular tube. Thanks.
At half current a double row F strip still needs ~45v. You have 24sft or 2,2m2 and you need at least 30 - 35w per sft. So 720-840w total.
A Meanwell HLG-240H-48A or B would have 5,2amps (and is the model with the best price : performance rating) and with 5 strips in parallel each strip would run with 1040mA(probably with up to 1100mA because this driver can go up to 280w). So 3 HLG-240H-48B and 15 double row 4ft F-strips would fit perfect. And you would have one 4ft strip each 4inch which means you'll get incredible uniform distribution with only 4-6" distance if you want.
Running F-series at half current means the diodes run with only 60mA and thats even below test current for LM561c. You could simply use efficiency numbers for LM561c and forget F-strip datasheets.

At 1050mA each strip needs ~45v and would run with 49-50w. With 15 strips thats around 750w net and probably ~790w at the wall. System efficiency should be ~2,4μMol/J(Watt) incl. driver loss(6%) so the total output(PPF) should be ~1800μMol/s. 6x4' is roughly ~2,16m² so the PPFD would be ~830μMol/s/m². The calculated numbers you see usually with 10-12" distance to the canopy. With more distance the intensity is reduced and with less distance you can measure higher values. Pretty sure at 6" you would have ~1000μMol/s across the whole area.

For system and design simulations Sammy has two calculator tools available; one for single diodes and one for their LED engines.

http://www.samsung.com/global/business/led/support/tools/calculator-pkg

http://www.samsung.com/led/support/tools/engine-calculator/

Makes it a lot easier to plan a fixture and you get at least a few more numbers to work with. You can convert the lumen output of 3000°k F-strips by 69 to get and idea of the total PPF. I recommend to order a cheap 12-15$ luxmeter from e3ay/am4zon they are perfect for height and dimmer adjustment and for spot measurings. Simply divide the readings by 69 and you have it converted to μMol/s/m²

Here is a screeny another user posted last year. It contains the most important data for LM561c include the conversion factor(PPF fact) for each LM561c spectrum(thanks @wietefras ) and the 3000°k is the most efficient spectrum for veg & bloom cycle.

So, bro! No bleeding brain anymore, lol!
With 3 HLG-240's and 15pcs 4ft double row F-strips you are well prepared for the next few years. For cooling you can simple use aluminum c-channel. Click my signature and have a closer look on my 400w strip/COB/UVB fixture. C or U-channels you can get pretty cheap and at 60mA per diode you could also get away using just 2mm aluminum sheets.

LM561c numbers.png
 
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