wearealldumb
Active Member
Yup you can wire the ac side in parallel as long as the total sum of your drivers dont exceed the breaker in the panel.
DiY LEDs - How to Power Them
- Thread starter SupraSPL
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Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Sorry! This was indeed only an estimation, we have 16A braker with 240v, do not know yours in the US.
Therefor I have told him to look at the fuse / braker and stay 20% below that.
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wearealldumb
Active Member
16A braker with 240v? How interesting. Most common is 15A or 20A breakers With120v. Anything 30 or more amps is usually 240v.
mahiluana
Well-Known Member
...and I want to tell them how to go !
if you put your own plans on ice ... that`s your problem.
I live in similar circumstances as you - rented appartment, bathroom on the other side...
if you pay $ 15,- for hot water - after one year the price of a heatexchanger has amortized.
The following years you can pay (part) of your electricity bill with these $ 180,-
so again: stop telling bullshit to the people
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Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Noted! Thanks!
cosmonautking
Active Member
and i would argue that you guys have your cooling means a bit overthought..... it really would depend on the loop and configuration you choose. you cant say air cooling is less efficient. when a large enough passive heatsink will "lock" your temps without thermal throttling.... ( imagine a 240mm or 340mm sink on a clu048 1212.) you would never need to cool it unless you put it in a sauna.
so if passive air, takes zero electricity. and a pump that can manage a 200gph flow rate, takes 20w, then untill you can justify dissipating the heat that you would effectively dissipate along the whole array. (probably like 40 individual 1212-1818 or 20 1825s)
so untill you need to cool a large enough area your just wasting electricity....
say you needed to cool 5 separate greenhouses. with about 5000 cobs per greenhouse.... because these greenhouses have good enough throughput airflow you would never have stagnant air that would accumulate and "spoil"
but if you took the same greenhouses and sealed them for a commercial indoor grow. then you would have to start thinking about ambient temperatures in your room..... your equipment has to work much harder to bring a temperature below ambience, and once you develop stagnant air, it will cycle and change temperature progressively more rapid and that "ambience" changes a whole lot.
a huge advantage to liquid cooling is precice direction of heat exchange.... you could easily mount your radiatior up high, or through a wall to the outside. the heat goes with the direction of your loop.
back to the greenhouses... i could have a main pump outside and if its strong enough or with the assistance of booster or inline pumps, channel every light to that pump
but a passive cooler is a chunk of metal and most likely wont break( id be impressed) with a loop, you have to woury about your seal integrity along the whole array. pump failure, clogs, sediment build up. and sometimes you will have to flush your coolant.
so the real question is.... is your area literally impossible to cool? do you have no choice but to directly and aggressively move your warm air SOMEWHERE ELSE ENTIRELY. and if you do what is your power limits.
the argument should really be ducted ventilation vs liquid loop. simply because the air exchange is being done at two seperate places. and actually exact opposite places.
air cools in the room. and liquid cools outside of the room (if you dont like contradiction what your building)... an aio wont do anything for the stagnant air arount your room. but a ducted system like a hid hood. will
you wouldnt fully liquid cool a raspberry pi. but you would your computer.
you wouldnt liquid cool your crypto miner. but garage open air temps are fine.
so if passive air, takes zero electricity. and a pump that can manage a 200gph flow rate, takes 20w, then untill you can justify dissipating the heat that you would effectively dissipate along the whole array. (probably like 40 individual 1212-1818 or 20 1825s)
so untill you need to cool a large enough area your just wasting electricity....
say you needed to cool 5 separate greenhouses. with about 5000 cobs per greenhouse.... because these greenhouses have good enough throughput airflow you would never have stagnant air that would accumulate and "spoil"
but if you took the same greenhouses and sealed them for a commercial indoor grow. then you would have to start thinking about ambient temperatures in your room..... your equipment has to work much harder to bring a temperature below ambience, and once you develop stagnant air, it will cycle and change temperature progressively more rapid and that "ambience" changes a whole lot.
a huge advantage to liquid cooling is precice direction of heat exchange.... you could easily mount your radiatior up high, or through a wall to the outside. the heat goes with the direction of your loop.
back to the greenhouses... i could have a main pump outside and if its strong enough or with the assistance of booster or inline pumps, channel every light to that pump
but a passive cooler is a chunk of metal and most likely wont break( id be impressed) with a loop, you have to woury about your seal integrity along the whole array. pump failure, clogs, sediment build up. and sometimes you will have to flush your coolant.
so the real question is.... is your area literally impossible to cool? do you have no choice but to directly and aggressively move your warm air SOMEWHERE ELSE ENTIRELY. and if you do what is your power limits.
the argument should really be ducted ventilation vs liquid loop. simply because the air exchange is being done at two seperate places. and actually exact opposite places.
air cools in the room. and liquid cools outside of the room (if you dont like contradiction what your building)... an aio wont do anything for the stagnant air arount your room. but a ducted system like a hid hood. will
you wouldnt fully liquid cool a raspberry pi. but you would your computer.
you wouldnt liquid cool your crypto miner. but garage open air temps are fine.
cosmonautking
Active Member
and then you have the thermal capabilities of your room in general. how well and under what circumstances does your room maintain its temperature without your help.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Depends on the miner, lol!
cosmonautking
Active Member
my little analogy is my situation with my water pump. i live alone in a large house, and my water pump consumes 2000w, in all actuality my water pump was designed to deliver water to a whole family, not just me. so even though i pretty much only use one sink, and one toilet. my pump isnt going to start using less electricity just because im using one toilet. when i turn on the water, the pump turns on.
it would be ideal to have a 600w or 1000w pump vs paying for what i dont use. but unless i wanted to dig it up and replace it, im screwed.
it would be ideal to have a 600w or 1000w pump vs paying for what i dont use. but unless i wanted to dig it up and replace it, im screwed.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
You could fill all the empty rooms in your house with plants and a big ass hydro system to use the full potential of the pump. No wasted energy and at the end of the year is certainly a holiday in it.
cosmonautking
Active Member
i promise thats not EXACTLY what im doing hahhahahahahahahahahhaha
but unfortunately im rural and have water with 450ppm and biofilm. so everthing that goes through my line has to be ro'ed and uv sterilized..... serious pain.
but unfortunately im rural and have water with 450ppm and biofilm. so everthing that goes through my line has to be ro'ed and uv sterilized..... serious pain.
mahiluana
Well-Known Member
my tiny pump can do 200L / h / 3m head hight and only use 2,7W in a closed loop.
in my 1,8m² grow chamber i need 4 additional fans(3W / 126m³ph) // 2 fans pulling air through the carbon filter and 2 others to move the air - o,3 sone - no heat no noise even in summer.
14,7W in total for additional electr. with 540W coolmac led system is really not much
during 15h a day i leave ~5KWh of heat in the boiler - i need them for shower, kitchen and washing machine every day. So the way for my heat is by sewer pipes.
if i do not use any hot water - the lamp system and boiler heats up till 70°C and yes then all heat
is radiated to the grow and the heatexchanger. I need then more airflow but the system is still working. If my 5$ pump failes i have a thermal switch @ 60°C.
But the most important: I stoped heating my service water with the oil central i used before.
For 45m³ of hot water i payed more than 300$ / year.
Now i can use this money to pay my electr. bill.
That`s why i pretend to be granmaster of energy efficiency -
light-heat-cogeneration payback a lamp and heatexchanger in less than 2 years.
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mahiluana
Well-Known Member
mahiluana
Well-Known Member
another 2000W ?
cosmonautking
Active Member
no i cant afford that hahah especially maintenance
i just use a regular single sink set up for the ro and uv. and 50 gal storage for my hydroponics, and coco stuff.
but i had technically spoken before i had done a full inspect on the type of system you are talking about.
and now im curious, couldnt you achieve the same or almost the same efficiency without much startup cost at all, by instead of a special reservoir/pump combo acting as your water heater in tandem, do a universal induction coil wrap for any water heater base... since a water heater maintains the temperature after the main burner does the grunt work. couldnt you just use a closed loop wrapped around the tank with a thermal sensor to hit a switch on the backup burner when temps get too low..... in theory it would be and would act as a regular water heater, with the assistance of the heat the lamp puts off.
or even have a sub reservoir with an active assisted burner. so you would tap into your cold water. witch would go into your lamp, through your lamp where it would be warmed. into a sub tank with the assisted burner. which can run at a higher efficiency. then into your heater and home
i just use a regular single sink set up for the ro and uv. and 50 gal storage for my hydroponics, and coco stuff.
but i had technically spoken before i had done a full inspect on the type of system you are talking about.
and now im curious, couldnt you achieve the same or almost the same efficiency without much startup cost at all, by instead of a special reservoir/pump combo acting as your water heater in tandem, do a universal induction coil wrap for any water heater base... since a water heater maintains the temperature after the main burner does the grunt work. couldnt you just use a closed loop wrapped around the tank with a thermal sensor to hit a switch on the backup burner when temps get too low..... in theory it would be and would act as a regular water heater, with the assistance of the heat the lamp puts off.
or even have a sub reservoir with an active assisted burner. so you would tap into your cold water. witch would go into your lamp, through your lamp where it would be warmed. into a sub tank with the assisted burner. which can run at a higher efficiency. then into your heater and home
mahiluana
Well-Known Member
in the moment i use an electric boiler with integrated heat exchanger (80L, € 165,-)
I never use the plug to heat up the water - with ~ 300W watercooled led light during
~15h (4,5 KWh) i can prepare my daily need of ~80L / 2 pers. With a closed loup and
3W aquarium pump (200L/h, 0,3bar)
so i leave ~3KWh in the boiler and only ~1,5KWh in my grow room. (as light + rest of the heat)
if you chose a boiler acording to the lamp power you could heat up a boiler like this up to 70°C
that may be high enough to kill your bacteria. You can always plug in the boiler to get even higher temps.
watercooled heatsink, fittings, pump and hose may cost me $ 60,-
led chips and driver upon your choice 200-1200W
better to have a metall coil inside the water
not shure if i understood all your installation issues -
but in general watercooled led light is simple and easy to copy - just a closed loop
through an aluminium square tube($10,-/m)
cosmonautking
Active Member
so do you like run pipes from your tent to your water heater or what?? is your room suppose to be in the room with the water heater? im so confused here, and i even translated it to english. but there arent any pictures other than the face of a model. and the pipes look poly and not insulated.
is this for like a 2x4 closet with a water heater? or maybe a basement or garage? im not exactly sure who you are marketing twords. it sounds cool in theory. but if you decide to move your set up, your stuck with a horrific mix of a diy lamp and a chilled. when the output just really isnt that necessary, and even with heat dissipation over distance, you would need some seriously quality thermal material, covering the distance. or your liquid would be cooled or undertemp by the time it reached its destination. i have 12 citi 1212 clu048 @.7a on three 10''x6'' inch aluminum sinks which pull about 300 wall watts which stay at ambient temps passively and -10 room temp with a 3watt 120mm pc fan. so its hard for me to understand how such little heat can maintain itself over such a long distance, with no thermal protection. and even if it could, isnt all of this completely contradictory of the sole purpose of a water cooling system?
these chips just dont get that hot..... it would be worth it if you could put cobs shoulder to shoulder. or add smaller and more dense chips. but chilled already did that, but better
is this for like a 2x4 closet with a water heater? or maybe a basement or garage? im not exactly sure who you are marketing twords. it sounds cool in theory. but if you decide to move your set up, your stuck with a horrific mix of a diy lamp and a chilled. when the output just really isnt that necessary, and even with heat dissipation over distance, you would need some seriously quality thermal material, covering the distance. or your liquid would be cooled or undertemp by the time it reached its destination. i have 12 citi 1212 clu048 @.7a on three 10''x6'' inch aluminum sinks which pull about 300 wall watts which stay at ambient temps passively and -10 room temp with a 3watt 120mm pc fan. so its hard for me to understand how such little heat can maintain itself over such a long distance, with no thermal protection. and even if it could, isnt all of this completely contradictory of the sole purpose of a water cooling system?
these chips just dont get that hot..... it would be worth it if you could put cobs shoulder to shoulder. or add smaller and more dense chips. but chilled already did that, but better
mahiluana
Well-Known Member
my boiler is hanging in between my 2 grow chambers connected by ~3m 8mm hose.
my bathroom is ~ 8m far away - i connected 2 x 8m garden hose (cold in - hot out) to the boiler
and taking a shower i have to carry both hoses to the shower - click&plug cold in to the cold water und push the hot water out of the boiler.
as the appartment is not mine i can`t do a fixed installation and still have the possibility to use the oil central water heating.
My aim next winter is to heat the whole appartment with my lamps and maybe build a grow chamber with lower vertical sections to grow letuche and herbs.
My ~calculation for 2 pers. in a 75m² appartment is as follow:
jan feb march april may june july aug sept oct nov dec
900 900 600 600 300 300 300 300 600 600 900 900W lamp
this is an average consume of ~ 9KWh / day // 3250KWh / year
i pay € 0,25 / KWh = € 812,50 total
2015 i had to pay € 1044,40 for hot water, heating + additional costs
2016 only € 647,33 because i started to prepare my own hot water.
300w lamp 12-15h = 80L of hot (40°C) water.
If you have a sunny place to fix some pv-panels you can do even better buisness.
Watercooled pv-panels produce 10-15% more electr. if in summer you cool them down
from 70° ---> 35°C. they are able to produce ~700W per hour of heat for the heatexchanger.
THink about global warm up - as we loose slowly our ice caps there will be less sunlight
reflected back to space. We just ignore that a reflective white (albedo effect) is the strongest weapon against climate change.
Plants are perfect for (water)cooling the world.
Unfortunately the deforestation of the planet is a fact - and many little greenhouses with solar panels in the cities only a dream - till now.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Humans are the worst virus on our planet and we will keep destroying the world as long as there is wealth and possessions for individuals. Egoism will destroy our habitat and exterminate ourselves. Unfortunately, all other creatures go with us as well. In the end we will leave a dead planet.
Damn, they(the rich ones) are already considering how to leave the earth when the time comes.
The oceans are already dying, 50% of coral reefs are already dead and CO2 concentrations are soon reaching a saturation point. When our oceans flip, everything will die very fast.
When the time comes, it will only take a few generations ...
God thanks, you and me will not experience that..
Damn, they(the rich ones) are already considering how to leave the earth when the time comes.
The oceans are already dying, 50% of coral reefs are already dead and CO2 concentrations are soon reaching a saturation point. When our oceans flip, everything will die very fast.
When the time comes, it will only take a few generations ...
God thanks, you and me will not experience that..
