DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

goofy81

Well-Known Member
I'd like to run 5-CXB 3590 36 volt using a hlg 240 1400 constant current driver.I may get dimmer option.
Table says 5.1 can be powered but since each cob is below 39volts I think theyll be fine.
Before I order will this power supply power 5 cobs safely or are there better choices now or since last time tables been updated?
It'll work fine. At 1400ma the cree uses about 34.7v I think, so just under 50w
 

zblade

Well-Known Member
I'd like for someone to double check if pinned heat sinks with these specs will passively cool each CXB 3590 driven by a hlg 240 1400.
I plan on running 5 with a hlg 240 1400 but I want the make sure heat sinks are big enough.
I've calculated heat sink area needed if it's one large heat sink for all cobs by using watts out of wall and heat watts but not for single heat sinks.
I think it's watts out of wall divided by 5, minus efficiency of each cob driven at 1.4 is heat watts but that's as far as I got,
Diameter 133mm
Height 70mm
Plate 10mm
Thermal Resistance 226w/m.k
Total cooling surface 1750.32cm²
 
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Quintessence

Active Member
Hi all. I'm in need of some help with my new build out.

I will be running 72 36V 3590's on 12 HLG-320H-C1400B drivers in a sealed 10x10 with a MRCOOL 12K Mini-Split (110V), a 10 in Hyperfan, 50-70 pint Dehumidifier, Co2 tank, a couple fans and maybe a small pump. I have a 200 amp main panel and I believe the room has 20 amps running to it. I'm not planning on installing a 240v breaker/outlet because the quote to do it was quite high given the distance between the Panel and the room, approx 40 ft. My instinct is to get an electrician to give me 2 x 20 amp circuits for the room and split the load across them. An electrician I spoke to on the phone suggested a sub panel but he said it would be about $1500 to install. I'm confident building LED panels but I'd like to put this aspect of the build into the hands of a pro.


Am I on the right track here? Do I need a subpanel and does anyone have a contact for a good sparky up in Ventura county CA? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

sanjuan

Well-Known Member
How much for the 240V circuit?
I don't see your other options being any cheaper.
Disclaimer: I'm not an electrician but I know one.
 

Quintessence

Active Member
How much for the 240V circuit?
I don't see your other options being any cheaper.
Disclaimer: I'm not an electrician but I know one.
Got a rough quote for about 800 which seemed high to me but he told me he'd need to come out for a estimate. I was hoping to get everything I need done for 500-700 but maybe that's wishful thinking?
 

sanjuan

Well-Known Member
I've run 3600W of Lumigrow LEDs on a 240V 20A (12AWG) circuit. I couldn't say what prices should be, I do my own work. (The circuit is now used for 1600W of Mean Well--Cree 3590's)

Your load center should have vacant spots for new circuit breakers so I don't think a subpanel will be necessary. (unless you're going to an outbuilding)

Edit: the newer Mean Well data sheets are quite restrictive for number of drivers per circuit breaker. My load center is 45 years old; modern breakers are likely more sensitive to large inrush currents, maybe.
 
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Quintessence

Active Member
I've run 3600W of Lumigrow LEDs on a 240V 20A (12AWG) circuit. I couldn't say what prices should be, I do my own work. (The circuit is now used for 1600W of Mean Well--Cree 3590's)

Your load center should have vacant spots for new circuit breakers so I don't think a subpanel will be necessary. (unless you're going to an outbuilding)

Edit: the newer Mean Well data sheets are quite restrictive for number of drivers per circuit breaker. My load center is 45 years old; modern breakers are likely more sensitive to large inrush currents, maybe.
Thanks for that. Very helpful.
 

pop22

Well-Known Member
Current National Electrical codes require all circuit breaker now be AFCI compliant ( AFCI breakers protect against an unintentional electrical discharge in an electrical cord or wiring that could cause a fire. Once the breaker senses the electrical jump and abnormal path, it instantly disconnects the damaged circuit before the arc builds enough heat to catch fire. ) Said circuitry and GFCI also may be the reason for limiting number of drivers.

I've run 3600W of Lumigrow LEDs on a 240V 20A (12AWG) circuit. I couldn't say what prices should be, I do my own work. (The circuit is now used for 1600W of Mean Well--Cree 3590's)

Your load center should have vacant spots for new circuit breakers so I don't think a subpanel will be necessary. (unless you're going to an outbuilding)

Edit: the newer Mean Well data sheets are quite restrictive for number of drivers per circuit breaker. My load center is 45 years old; modern breakers are likely more sensitive to large inrush currents, maybe.
 

sanjuan

Well-Known Member
I'd forgotten about AFCI being standard in the US now. I'm pretty sure the Mean Well 240VAC spec circuit breaker is a more international standard but I don't know what it is.
 

CoqueKoke

New Member
Which driver would you use please to use 3 COB vero29 gen 7 BXRC-30EK10-(B or D???)-73

I have heard the best one is BXRC-35EK10-C73, but northerlights sells the 30EK10 one, in different letters. Which one is the best? 4000ºK would be too much, right? 40EK10-C72

What about the driver? thanks, just for 3 COB's
 
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furalle

Active Member
Hi all. I'm in need of some help with my new build out.

I will be running 72 36V 3590's on 12 HLG-320H-C1400B drivers in a sealed 10x10 with a MRCOOL 12K Mini-Split (110V), a 10 in Hyperfan, 50-70 pint Dehumidifier, Co2 tank, a couple fans and maybe a small pump. I have a 200 amp main panel and I believe the room has 20 amps running to it. I'm not planning on installing a 240v breaker/outlet because the quote to do it was quite high given the distance between the Panel and the room, approx 40 ft. My instinct is to get an electrician to give me 2 x 20 amp circuits for the room and split the load across them. An electrician I spoke to on the phone suggested a sub panel but he said it would be about $1500 to install. I'm confident building LED panels but I'd like to put this aspect of the build into the hands of a pro.


Am I on the right track here? Do I need a subpanel and does anyone have a contact for a good sparky up in Ventura county CA? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Are you going to controll them leds with something? If you start them all at once the inrush current will be 70x12=840 amps! Meanwell says max 3 drivers on a 16amp breaker type c. The old school porslin breakers are not that sensitive to inrush currents but starting them one by one is prob a good idea anyways.

Also the drivers pulls a little bit less than 3.5 amps@120v

3.5Ax12=42A plus your other gear. I would get 3-4 20A circuts with AFCI and a controller for the leds that start them one by one.
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
Those Vero 29's from northern lights https://goo.gl/MqJ30R .... I can run 5 of on this driver HLG185H-C700B https://goo.gl/Uu71nd right?

From what I'm reading, that vero is 52v, and that driver should be a 286v output = good to go? Bad idea? Wrong? Bad efficiency? Fail? lol.... this stuff is so confusing at the moment.
Yeah should work okay. I don't know why they left that driver out of the list on the Vero page you linked. Seems like a good price though, $25 each when you buy 5. Guess Cree has a lot of competition these days.
 

speedyganga

Well-Known Member
Hi,
I want to power a CLU058 1825 using HBG240- 60 (4A max)
I figured out the cob won't draw 60V @ 4A but 57V or so.
While it is fine in constant current mode (4A), I was wondering what will happen when I dim the driver down to say 1A.
anyone confortable with Constant voltage driver from meanwell ?
 

Quintessence

Active Member
Are you going to controll them leds with something? If you start them all at once the inrush current will be 70x12=840 amps! Meanwell says max 3 drivers on a 16amp breaker type c. The old school porslin breakers are not that sensitive to inrush currents but starting them one by one is prob a good idea anyways.

Also the drivers pulls a little bit less than 3.5 amps@120v

3.5Ax12=42A plus your other gear. I would get 3-4 20A circuts with AFCI and a controller for the leds that start them one by one.
I really appreciate your input! I've finally moved in so I'm able to investigate the space further. I spent the day in the Attic trying to make sense of the wiring in this place. I discovered I do actually have 240V for the main AC split which was recently upgraded. It's wired into a 60 amp 240 breaker. There is also an RV hook up with it's own dedicated 240V sub panel which hooked up to a 30amp breaker on the main fusebox. There is a junction box running from the main panel, and then that goes underground and under the driveway about 30ft away. I opened it up and they are just wing nut connections inside. Since the distance from the RV pad is about the same to the grow room, could I just run a line from that junction box around the house or up though my roof to that room and run my lights off that circut? I know they use less amps at 240v so if I stagger the startup I should have it covered. Then I could use my dedicated 20 amp circuit in the room for my 12k diy mini split and a fan or two. How does this sound? Its dark at the moment but I can take some pics tomorrow if they would help. Also would you recommend a particular light controller for the drivers?

EDIT: Would something like this fit the bill or is there a cheaper option?
http://hydrobuilder.com/powerbox-dual-zone-12-light-controller-conf.html?dzid=strands_DPC-12000D-CONF
 

furalle

Active Member
I really appreciate your input! I've finally moved in so I'm able to investigate the space further. I spent the day in the Attic trying to make sense of the wiring in this place. I discovered I do actually have 240V for the main AC split which was recently upgraded. It's wired into a 60 amp 240 breaker. There is also an RV hook up with it's own dedicated 240V sub panel which hooked up to a 30amp breaker on the main fusebox. There is a junction box running from the main panel, and then that goes underground and under the driveway about 30ft away. I opened it up and they are just wing nut connections inside. Since the distance from the RV pad is about the same to the grow room, could I just run a line from that junction box around the house or up though my roof to that room and run my lights off that circut? I know they use less amps at 240v so if I stagger the startup I should have it covered. Then I could use my dedicated 20 amp circuit in the room for my 12k diy mini split and a fan or two. How does this sound? Its dark at the moment but I can take some pics tomorrow if they would help. Also would you recommend a particular light controller for the drivers?

EDIT: Would something like this fit the bill or is there a cheaper option?
http://hydrobuilder.com/powerbox-dual-zone-12-light-controller-conf.html?dzid=strands_DPC-12000D-CONF
Just add all your loads and you see how much you need. Might want to have some safetymargin for the fuses.

Here is a cheaper option for controll with pwm dimming. It has 8 channels so you can run 2 drivers per channel.
https://growgreenled.wordpress.com/

You will also need 5v relays with external powersupply because arduino cant power them all.

5v relays for 240v: http://www.powerswitchtail.com/Pages/PowerSwitchTail240vackit.aspx

There are also 120v relays and they are fully assembled.
 

Quintessence

Active Member
Just add all your loads and you see how much you need. Might want to have some safetymargin for the fuses.

Here is a cheaper option for controll with pwm dimming. It has 8 channels so you can run 2 drivers per channel.
https://growgreenled.wordpress.com/

You will also need 5v relays with external powersupply because arduino cant power them all.

5v relays for 240v: http://www.powerswitchtail.com/Pages/PowerSwitchTail240vackit.aspx

There are also 120v relays and they are fully assembled.
Thanks for the tip on the Growgreen controller! How many relays would I need?
 

SuperSimon

Member
Dear Bros
ive got a brain bubble while reading info and find U as a very good example
my english is no good
i order 10 pcs prolight opto PACF-57FVL-BC8P ( 6 at 3000k & 4 at 5000)
what you think bout this mixture
and a problem! which driver works good at this optos?
ive found a meanwell Mean Well HLG-185H-36B /5.2 a
i calculate something like f 10 cobs at 520 ma and ive got around 30000lm at 187 w/im right?
or Mean Well HLG-240H-36B 6.7 А better ?i wanna dim it/its possible&?
if no please help choose the right one with lower amp
best regards
hi from Ukraine to all free people
 
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