DIY LED light Setup

BeastGrow

Well-Known Member
Cree 13.5 Watt 5000k 75w equivalent LED Globe e27 bulb type (standard house light bulb socket size)... x8
e27 to e27x 2 socket ( Y Socket splitter) x 7.
light socket with large reflector (if splitters will fit)

Now make an 8 bulb chandelier... Make one of these or every 3 square feet and you should be able to have up to a 1 foot thick canopy.

320 watts for 2x4x5 tent. 3 LED chandeliers or 24 LED bulbs

if i were to do 4x4 tent I would go with 48 bulbs (6 x 8 ) or 40 bulbs (8x4 and 1x8 )..


I figured it out to be a tad less than 2 bucks per watt for this setup...

10 packs of light splitters - 10 bucks
light socket with reflector - 8 bucks
8 LED bulbs - 160 bucks
4 foot length of chain - couple bucks
'S' hook to fit chain so you can adjust height easily - bout 50 cents
zip tie to secure the chain to the light socket - couple cents
power strip - 3 bucks

less than 200 bucks per chandelier... each chandlier is 8800 lumens and even more LUX and run at 108 watts

Half the lumens of a HPS but probably similar LUX. 320w LED would probably compare to 400w HPS but with much less heat
 

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
Might I suggest reconsidering the y splitters and just going with just a regular outdoor socket fixture like this: Black outdoor/ indoor light socket
and then use your reflectors.

The reason I bring this up is please read page 45 and 46 here in Brother Tags journal a couple of months ago where he did PAR meter testing of both the Cree Led bulbs and different positions. Albeit it was with 9.5 watt versions, but I think yours #'s just need to be extrapolated by 30%. Best was either straight down with reflectors or to the sides very close-up.

https://www.rollitup.org/led-other-lighting/676858-tags-high-efficiency-lighting-garden-45.html


Another idea
...is to consider using 4 light fixtures like CaptainMorgan does with his crees from mylamparts which are dirt cheap. Then buy up some aluminum sheeting like from Home Depot and paint it white and forming a custom reflector yourself, possibly cheaper.

https://www.rollitup.org/led-other-lighting/656542-flowering-cree-bulbs-1.html
http://www.mylampparts.com/Products/Four-Light-Cluster---Keyless__SL19156.aspx


Should be interesting to see the Cree bulbs, nobody that I know yet, has ran a journal, so fugg yeah on that! Also would be interesting to see somebody do a tear down on the 2700k globes, I think I read that these were just overdriven XB-e's, bummer they got rid of the Xt-e's.

Don't remove the glass on the 5000k's, just in case, I think you need it.
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Hello beast, 5000K should be about 30% blue which may be considered high for a flowering lamp. It is also somewhat low on red and deep red. They are outputting 80lm/watt (partially because of the glass) and costing about $2/W. So unless you are not down for a bit of wiring, I highly recommend 3000K COB. You would get 130 lm/watt for about the same price as well as an improved spectrum. Good luck!
 

bicit

Well-Known Member
I think it would be easier to do a cob setup. If you wanted to avoid even drilling/tapping nuventix sells heatsinks pre-drilled for bridglux vero COBs.

Bridgelux vero 29 COB: $50
Molex pico EZ mate: $2
Nuventix heatsink :$20
Meanwell LPC-1400: $20
Synjet cooling fan: $20
4 pin Power suppy: $15
Misc bits: $20
Total: $150
+10% error: $165

The 5000k '29 is good for about 6800 lumens at 1.4 amps and should hypothetically use half the power of your 1 of your LED bulb chandelier designs. No drilling, no tapping, no soldering, practically plug and play. If you wanted to drill tap and solder you could do it for even less than that. Heck you could build four of these compared to 3 of your chandeliers for about the same price and still use less power. Light coverage wouldn't be as nice though.
 
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