DIY LED lamp - Vero 29's 3000K alone or added CW or BLUE

DitMras

Member
Hello green grow-engineers.
I have lurked around grow forums and as tech minded person I got hooked on DIY LED grow lamp.
I tried to learn as much as I can "absorb" regarding LED chips/drivers to reduce "stupid questions" frequency :)

Definitive plan is to build unit with six Vero 29, 3000K, CRI 80 - cobs powered with six 2100mA drivers (each Vero 29 on it's own driver) .. Also I have planed to make it possible to switch all six Vero's on 3 drivers and drive them in parallel with 1050mA each as a bit more efficient "soft mode" for use in early phase of small plants when I can bring lamp closer down.

I know that running parallel is not advised but I believe that this may not be dangerous to my lovely Vreo's as even in case that one is somehow messed up or burnt other still can take full current from driver safely without harm (suggestion or advice regarding this is welcome)
This combination will give me choice to drive 6 COB-s with 478W full total or in "soft mode" 229W in total
This lamp is intended to be used in space of 1x1m (3.3 x 3.3ft) area and 2m (6.5ft) height.

I already have 6 Vero 29 and black anodized aluminum heat-sinks and 6 80mm cooling fans.

Main question that bothers me as newbie.. Considering that I already have 3000K Vero's which I ordered a bit "fast on trigger" way .. and later found out that 4000K Vero is preferred by growers due to better blue spectrum performance... Question is,. do I need to supplement this setup with few Cold White or Blue LED's for just vegging phase or in general? .. or I can get away with 3000K Vero 29 on it's own from the start?

If "light supplementation" is needed what is better choice Cold white (5000K-6500K) or blue only (450-460nm..)
At the moment, if addition is required I am most likely limited on "cheaper" (read-Chinese) solutions so any advice/suggestion in this direction is also welcome.

Thanx to anyone willing to help/advise. I promise to send lamp building/final pictures when all parts arrive.

Best wishes,
Dit
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Led give blue spectrum, but no uvb.
You really should get some 2' or 4' fluorescent tubes T5/8/12 and use 5000-6500 bulbs to either hang along with your light, or to use on the sides, hung up against a wall of your tent. Either way, you'll get your blue, which is only needed in minimal amounts during flower anyways, but UVB as well which isn't a huge amount with them, but it does help. If you want UVB use a reptile bulb from a pet store. EBay and Amazon also carry a lot of them. Zoo Med is a recommended brand.
 

nevergoodenuf

Well-Known Member
You will be happy with the 3000K for Vegging. Just start with the basic light, just Vero's, do a run and see if it is necessary to add more light. I think you will be happy with 6 Veros alone. It would be simpler to just use dimmable drivers, B version, they don't cost anymore.
 

DitMras

Member
Hello Guys.
Thank you for replies. So adding more blue is not crucial. I read somewhere that Vero 29/3000K is relatively weaker in blue range than CREE CXA/CXB 3070 /3000K. OK I will try with Vero 29 / 3000K only and see what happens.
I do not know how relevant my experiment will be as this will be my first growing attempt at all.
Thanx to all one more time.
 
I run 16 Vero 29's in parallel on two Hlg-240-42 Meanwell drivers. A total of four 4 ft heatsinks, 4 cobs per heatsink, spaced one foot apart. This gives me one cob per square foot. My cobs are 3500k. Kills it for veg and bloom! I went with the "b" version drivers so i can tone it down a bit with potentiometers. I never need to run them full trottle. Your 3ks should be just fine.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
I run 16 Vero 29's in parallel on two Hlg-240-42 Meanwell drivers. A total of four 4 ft heatsinks, 4 cobs per heatsink, spaced one foot apart. This gives me one cob per square foot. My cobs are 3500k. Kills it for veg and bloom! I went with the "b" version drivers so i can tone it down a bit with potentiometers. I never need to run them full trottle. Your 3ks should be just fine.
Ya if you want blue get 3500.3K is just 3500 without the blue from what I understand. I use 6-CXB3590's 3500k & 2- 4000k.
 

voon

Well-Known Member
[Quote = "Airwalker16, post: 12280233, člen: 913773"] Vedl dát modré spektrum, ale ne UVB.
Měli byste získat některé 2 'nebo 4' zářivky T5 / 8/12 a pomocí 5000-6500 žárovky buď zavěsit spolu se svým světlem, nebo použít na bocích, zavěsil proti zdi svého stanu. Ať tak či onak, budete dostat své modré, která je potřebná jen v minimálním množství během květu tak jako tak, ale UVB i což není obrovské množství s nimi, ale to pomůže. Chcete-li UVB použít plaz žárovku ze zverimexu. EBay a Amazon také nést mnoho z nich. Zoo Med je doporučená značka. [/ Quote]
UVB isn't better choice than UVA(royal blue,5000K-6500K)
Led give blue spectrum, but no uvb.
You really should get some 2' or 4' fluorescent tubes T5/8/12 and use 5000-6500 bulbs to either hang along with your light, or to use on the sides, hung up against a wall of your tent. Either way, you'll get your blue, which is only needed in minimal amounts during flower anyways, but UVB as well which isn't a huge amount with them, but it does help. If you want UVB use a reptile bulb from a pet store. EBay and Amazon also carry a lot of them. Zoo Med is a recommended brand.
UVB isn't better choice than UVA(royal blue,5000K-6500K)
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
[Quote = "Airwalker16, post: 12280233, člen: 913773"] Vedl dát modré spektrum, ale ne UVB.
Měli byste získat některé 2 'nebo 4' zářivky T5 / 8/12 a pomocí 5000-6500 žárovky buď zavěsit spolu se svým světlem, nebo použít na bocích, zavěsil proti zdi svého stanu. Ať tak či onak, budete dostat své modré, která je potřebná jen v minimálním množství během květu tak jako tak, ale UVB i což není obrovské množství s nimi, ale to pomůže. Chcete-li UVB použít plaz žárovku ze zverimexu. EBay a Amazon také nést mnoho z nich. Zoo Med je doporučená značka. [/ Quote]
UVB isn't better choice than UVA(royal blue,5000K-6500K)

UVB isn't better choice than UVA(royal blue,5000K-6500K)
I've always heard uvb is what you want
 

voon

Well-Known Member
the influence of UVB and its usefulness to cannabis is still under investigation, but already the results so far suggest that almost no effect on higher THC content and other canabinoids, but we need to continue to examine the effect at higher irradiation, at least this is how I understand it, but I'm only a layman so I come just from what I've read. UVB has a beneficial influence on the biosynthetic and photosyntetic processes of the plant, however it is already a relatively hard radiation and repairing the damage and require much more added UVA (10x) yes UVB has more energy (requires less irradiation) than UVA they have similar beneficial effects, but UVA can do it even without the negatives and is also more effective in opening vents and fototropic photosynthese and other processes, excuse my English, using a translator
 

voon

Well-Known Member
...
The effects of UV-B radiation on photosynthesis, growth and cannabinoid production of two greenhouse-grown C. sativa chemotypes (drug and fiber) were assessed. Terminal meristems of vegetative and reproductive tissues were irradiated for 40 days at a daily dose of 0, 6.7 or 13.4 kJ m-2 biologically effective UV-B radiation. Infrared gas analysis was used to measure the physiological response of mature leaves, whereas gas-liquid chromatography was used to determine the concentration of cannabinoids in leaf and floral tissue.

There were no significant physiological or morphological differences among UV-B treatments in either drug- or fiber-type plants. The concentration of Δ9-tetrahydrocannabinol (Δ9-THC), but not of other cannabinoids, in both leaf and floral tissues increased with UV-B dose in drug-type plants. None of the cannabinoids in fiber-type plants were affected by UV-B radiation.

The increased levels of Δ9-THC in leaves after irradiation may account for the physiological and morphological tolerance to UV-B radiation in the drug-type plants. However, fiber plants showed no comparable change in the level of cannabidiol (a cannabinoid with UV-B absorptive characteristics similar to Δ9 THC). Thus the contribution of cannabinoids as selective UV-B filters in C. sativa is equivocal.
 

littlejacob

Well-Known Member
Bonjour
I heard that equatorial sativa produce more thcv under the sun than indoor is that true?
Those plants should be more potent under the sun than indoor!
CU
 

voon

Well-Known Member
Bonjour
I heard that equatorial sativa produce more thcv under the sun than indoor is that true?
Those plants should be more potent under the sun than indoor!
CU
if I remember correctly, sativas have as a tribe usually higher content of cannabinoids compared indica, but they often much longer flowering more than 12 weeks and the need for good curring for the conversion of inactive THC and CBD cannabinoids .. ,I unfortunately do not have enough knowledge about strains, although I think this is one of the most Important thing, and probably the greatest share of the success or failure of the crop ....
... In the case study, which addressed the use of the light spectrum, and other photosyntetic and biosynthetic processes in plants grown freely and in the case (growing box), which has been studied specifically a cannabis, the absorption curve differ mainly in green and yellow spectrum ( primarily green blocks, closes photosyntetic processes) and it is therefore important to use a light source with a higher content of blue and red spectrum than plants need the sun .. Alternatively, just higher overall exposure (which deletes these differences) when grown in the box .. if I'm this of course understood correctly .. min proportion of blue spectrum is 10% .. seems best to 15-20% ..
obviously holds rules when it increases its share amount of blue spectra .. there is a need to increase the amount proportional to deep red spectrum .. to remain quality and the amount of total resin in the buds
It grows happily at ;-)
 

chatoo123

Well-Known Member
I run 16 Vero 29's in parallel on two Hlg-240-42 Meanwell drivers. A total of four 4 ft heatsinks, 4 cobs per heatsink, spaced one foot apart. This gives me one cob per square foot. My cobs are 3500k. Kills it for veg and bloom! I went with the "b" version drivers so i can tone it down a bit with potentiometers. I never need to run them full trottle. Your 3ks should be just fine.
Did you switch driver's for the b version cause I have the exact driver and the b version and the 37 volt one too I'm curious if the 240-42 pushes the b version
 
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