DIY COB Build Electrical Safety Concerns

tatikas

Active Member
Hello all!
Planning my first LED build and since I´m quite paranoid about electricity, have come up with a few questions. Most builds don´t seem to mention adding a fuse to the input side of the driver, but for instance Timber has one installed. It would seem easier for me to install a circuit breaker in a little box on the wall, between the power outlet and the lamp.
Would it be just as good of does a fuse have some advantages? Is it a bad idea to use the circuit breaker as a on/off switch as needed?
Looking for components in a store I found a power strip with surge protection AND a 16A fuse, would using this to power up my lamp be just as safe? That would be so easy.
Thank you for your time!
 

freemanjack

Well-Known Member
Hello all!
Planning my first LED build and since I´m quite paranoid about electricity, have come up with a few questions. Most builds don´t seem to mention adding a fuse to the input side of the driver, but for instance Timber has one installed. It would seem easier for me to install a circuit breaker in a little box on the wall, between the power outlet and the lamp.
Would it be just as good of does a fuse have some advantages? Is it a bad idea to use the circuit breaker as a on/off switch as needed?
Looking for components in a store I found a power strip with surge protection AND a 16A fuse, would using this to power up my lamp be just as safe? That would be so easy.
Thank you for your time!
All mains fixtures should be correctly fused, this means a fuse of around 10% higher value than your total draw current, ie; a 6A fuse for a 5A draw etc, this can be incorperated into the socket if you use IEC standard connectors or simply in the 2 or 3 pin plug on the other end of the cable.
 

tatikas

Active Member
So if a meanwell hlg 185h c1400b driver puts out 1.4A, it also draws 1.4A? And a 2A fuse would be adequate? Timber has 10A fuses installed i think. So again I'm a little confused.
 

GBAUTO

Well-Known Member
Fuses are to protect wiring. Base your amperage rating of the fuse on the wire gauge in the supply. I feel that using proper wiring and insulation will make ME safer.
 

tatikas

Active Member
@VegasWinner
Looked these things up already, seems like a great thing, well adaptable to a build but would 10A be right for my setup? I'll have 200w clu048 1212 lamps, each with a 10A fuse and I'm good?
 

xX_BHMC_Xx

Well-Known Member
Check the datasheet for your driver at full load, multiply by number of drivers, select a fuse/breaker of roughly 10-20% greater value. :cool:
 

tatikas

Active Member
What a great idea to check the datasheet, @230V the driver draws 1A, so i should be looking for a 1100mA fuse now i guess?
 
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CobKits

Well-Known Member
What a great idea to check the datasheet, @230V the driver draws 1A, so i should be looking for a 1100mA fuse now i guess?
No that doesnt account for inrush current on startup and will prob blow

id go with at least 4A per driver per datasheet

upload_2017-10-29_0-27-31.png
 

CobKits

Well-Known Member
Thank you so much @CobKits , seems like problem solved. I'll install fused IEC connectors with a 4A fuse per fixture and should feel safe i guess.
you can experiment up or down (2A-5A). in general the meanwells have a ton of protection built in so if your circuits have the usual 15-30A breakers to protect the conductors to the drivers, you should be fine. Adding extra fuses never hurts anything (provided they arent blowing and leaving you light-less)
 

DankaDank

Well-Known Member
What a great idea to check the datasheet, @230V the driver draws 1A, so i should be looking for a 1100mA fuse now i guess?
230 VAC is for europe and the UK as the UK is actually 240VAC and the EU is 220VAC .
In the US (120VAC) the HLG-185h-C1400 will draw around 2 amps from AC side.
 
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