Decarboxylated and Winterized ISO Hash Oil- HELP!!

Ok guys, after researching hundreds of pages in numerous threads, I think I have most of my methods down, with the exception of couple of things.

First let me tell you what I plan to do. I'll accept any feedback, but try to focus on my two problems... The goal is to make an edible oil for a late stage Leukemia patient with pneumonia and a very low white blood cell count. Hoping to cure. I'm looking for the texture and consistency of RSO(one liquid drop will knock him out for a few hours).

• First I will deep freeze 99% iso.
• 1/4 high grade Kush crumbled, but not fine, also in freezer in separate mason jar.
  
• After a couple days in the walk in, quickly pour the iso over the frozen material, while in the walk in.
  
• Stir but don't agitate too much for 30 sec.
  
• Coffee filter tied over top of jar.
  
• Strain into another mason jar.
  
• Place in deep freezer for a few hours.
  
• Filter the mixture again.
  
• Purge- I'm going to try two different ways. Pyrex water bath and a Teflon wok.

Now is where the problem comes in. I am trying to deliver the cleanest, most powerful, edible oil I can make. Which means I need to decarboxylate and should winterize.

Which one do I need to do first?
How should I decarb? I could have done it to the bud before, but I heard that drastically affects the taste both oral and smoked. I've seen temps and heard a couple different ways but am still a little confused by both.

1. I was told that after the oil drys, to simply stick it in a preheated oven for an hour @ 245F for 45-60min.I'd be really nervous at that temp that the oil would just cook to the pan. (If not, then why would I have to rush after purging to get it off the heat at much lower temps?)

2. After the initial purge, switch the pan into a cannola oil bath at 240F for 60min. But the same question, without adding anything to the pan, won't it burn?

Ok, so now for the winterization. I've only seen vids and read articles on removing contaminants from BHO with ISO. But never with ISO. Can I do the same process? Simply put whatever concentrate I have(oil, tatty, shatter, butta) immerse it in ISO, wait for it to dissolve, place in the freezer until contaminants harden, filter, then purge again??

Can someone please give me step by step directions on these two processes??

Please help!! Thanks.

I would personally dump my jar of alcohol through a strainer first, and then through the filter, so that it drains faster.

Technically winterizing is re-dissolving a non polar extraction like butane or hexane, in a polar solvent and freezing it to precipitate out the plant waxes so that they can be removed by filtration.

Isopropyl is relatively polar and doesn't extract a lot of waxes to start with, so it isn't usually necessary to winterize it get rid of waxes. If you evaporate away the isopropyl and redissolve it in even more polar ethanol, some of the iso extract won't dissolve and some will fall out of solution when winterized, but not anything like a non polar extraction that is winterized with a polar solvent.

Mostly what you have to watch out with Iso, is that it readily extracts the polar elements like chlorophyll and water solubles.

As far as purging, I prefer to do it as a last step, so that I can watch the progress from the C02 bubbles created. I do that by placing the alcohol solution in a 250F hot Canola oil bath until it boils away and the irregular sized solvent bubbles cease, leaving the fine equally sized fizzy C02 bubbles.

I then keep stirring and watch the bubbles until the suddenly drop off, at which I remove it from the bath if I want maximum THC at 70% decarboxylation, or hold off until it is bubble free if I want 100% decarboxylation, and a more sedative medication.

Very interesting post.

You can also decarb the flowers first before making ISO. Just make sure you don't crisp them do a shorter time to preserve flavor.

Fadedawg said:

I would personally dump my jar of alcohol through a strainer first, and then through the filter, so that it drains faster.

Technically winterizing is re-dissolving a non polar extraction like butane or hexane, in a polar solvent and freezing it to precipitate out the plant waxes so that they can be removed by filtration.

Isopropyl is relatively polar and doesn't extract a lot of waxes to start with, so it isn't usually necessary to winterize it get rid of waxes. If you evaporate away the isopropyl and redissolve it in even more polar ethanol, some of the iso extract won't dissolve and some will fall out of solution when winterized, but not anything like a non polar extraction that is winterized with a polar solvent.

Mostly what you have to watch out with Iso, is that it readily extracts the polar elements like chlorophyll and water solubles.

As far as purging, I prefer to do it as a last step, so that I can watch the progress from the C02 bubbles created. I do that by placing the alcohol solution in a 250F hot Canola oil bath until it boils away and the irregular sized solvent bubbles cease, leaving the fine equally sized fizzy C02 bubbles.

I then keep stirring and watch the bubbles until the suddenly drop off, at which I remove it from the bath if I want maximum THC at 70% decarboxylation, or hold off until it is bubble free if I want 100% decarboxylation, and a more sedative medication.

Click to expand...

Would 100% Ethanol leave a taste like everclear if cooked off or vacuum purged? I've never used Ethanol for smoking materials I always felt ISO>Everclear.

Other than h20 and vacuum purging are there other options for refining ISO?

You can remove both Iso and Ethanol to below detectable limits, but 100% ethanol tastes exactly like a 95.6% azeotropic mixture of ethanol and water. Neither tastes as pungent as Isopropyl, which is even pungent compared to the simple alkane Propyl alcohol, which it is an isomer of.

Isopropyl is one of the least polar alcohols, so you can winterize it some using methanol.

You can polish it using hexane and brine, http://skunkpharmresearch.com/getting-the-green-and-waxes-out-afterwards/

Fadedawg said:

You can remove both Iso and Ethanol to below detectable limits, but 100% ethanol tastes exactly like a 95.6% azeotropic mixture of ethanol and water. Neither tastes as pungent as Isopropyl, which is even pungent compared to the simple alkane Propyl alcohol, which it is an isomer of.

Isopropyl is one of the least polar alcohols, so you can winterize it some using methanol.

You can polish it using hexane and brine, http://skunkpharmresearch.com/getting-the-green-and-waxes-out-afterwards/

Click to expand...

Ah I keep forgetting about skunk, thanks for that Fade. I can't help but think it's not fair that you have a whole site you can refer to quote yourself and answer questions. =P lol

A few questions though.

1) When re-dissolving does the oil/chem need to be warmed to do so? Or does the chem (methane) itself cause it to decompose? (Cold or room temp oils) I assume after filtering its boiled or air dried off?

2) So with the winterize and polish of ISO, basically going from some type of polar-nonpolar-polar does this degrade to lose any THC or CB's in any way?

Winterizing shouldn't be an issue but I don't have the gear to polish it yet. None the less great information, now if I can only convince you to take me in as cross-state intern.

BluJayz said:

Ah I keep forgetting about skunk, thanks for that Fade. I can't help but think it's not fair that you have a whole site you can refer to quote yourself and answer questions. =P lol

A few questions though.

1) When re-dissolving does the oil/chem need to be warmed to do so? Or does the chem (methane) itself cause it to decompose? (Cold or room temp oils) I assume after filtering its boiled or air dried off?

2) So with the winterize and polish of ISO, basically going from some type of polar-nonpolar-polar does this degrade to lose any THC or CB's in any way?

Winterizing shouldn't be an issue but I don't have the gear to polish it yet. None the less great information, now if I can only convince you to take me in as cross-state intern.

Click to expand...

Hee, hee, hee.......Feel free to use our site to answer the same questions that I do. You can also copy and paste any and all of the articles with our blessings.

It is a lot handier than rewriting the same thing over and over, though it was time consuming to put together and requires a monthly fee to keep it going.

The alcohol and oil don't have to be warmed, but it will go a lot faster if you do.

We boil or vacuum off the ethanol.

The diterpene cannabinoid loss is minimal, but you do lose most of the monoterpenes and and some of the sesquiterpenes, so it will have a hashy flavor.

Come on down, we have lots of out of state MMJ students. We honor all states MMJ cards for training purposes.

I will have to make plans to visit then. =)

One more thing, after freezing you filter while cold then you re boil it off right?

I have two batches in the freezer now going to test some of your polishing techniques.

I gave the 3rd wash (water) a try this evening. Came out with about 20g of super red goop. Unfortunately it hardens quickly and does not melt on a nail. Not sure where I went wrong but will hold on to some of it any try it in some food.

BluJayz said:

I will have to make plans to visit then. =)

One more thing, after freezing you filter while cold then you re boil it off right?

I have two batches in the freezer now going to test some of your polishing techniques.

I gave the 3rd wash (water) a try this evening. Came out with about 20g of super red goop. Unfortunately it hardens quickly and does not melt on a nail. Not sure where I went wrong but will hold on to some of it any try it in some food.

Click to expand...

Yes, you filter while still cold.

The third wash with the water will be full of "stuff", so I redissolve that in ethanol and throw away the red waxes that won't redissolve.

Fadedawg said:

Yes, you filter while still cold.

The third wash with the water will be full of "stuff", so I redissolve that in ethanol and throw away the red waxes that won't redissolve.

Click to expand...

Ah makes sense, I still have it and will try polishing it some more. Thanks!