Dealing with spider mites can I win

Redman87

Redman87

Member
I’m currently fighting some spider mites at the moment. I got some botanigard maxx and forbid on the way. Got some fatty acids knocking them down right now I feel like I can still win the battle because plants are still really small at the moment. So it’s easy to get the fatty acids all over the leaves. Plus since it’s so early I want to hit it with forbid. My grower I’m learning from dunks in avid but from my research I believe forbid is the better option.
 
You should use BOTH Forbid, and Avid.

Use the Forbid first, then 3 weeks later him em with the Avid.

Forbid/Avid have a 28 days effective duration. Spidermite is 21 days cycle.

Any mites that survive the 1st go around could develop a tolerance to said chemical, but when you hit it with the other chemical, that is just as effective, youre all but 100% guaranteed to 100% get rid of all of them.

Forget all that other stuff. It just slows them, and WILL NOT wipe them out.
Forbid/Avid WILL wipe them out.
 
jimihendrix1 said:
You should use BOTH Forbid, and Avid.

Use the Forbid first, then 3 weeks later him em with the Avid.

Forbid/Avid have a 28 days effective duration. Spidermite is 21 days cycle.

Any mites that survive the 1st go around could develop a tolerance to said chemical, but when you hit it with the other chemical, that is just as effective, youre all but 100% guaranteed to 100% get rid of all of them.

Forget all that other stuff. It just slows them, and WILL NOT wipe them out.
Forbid/Avid WILL wipe them out.
Click to expand...
Awesome reply bro
 
jimihendrix1 said:
You should use BOTH Forbid, and Avid.

Use the Forbid first, then 3 weeks later him em with the Avid.

Forbid/Avid have a 28 days effective duration. Spidermite is 21 days cycle.

Any mites that survive the 1st go around could develop a tolerance to said chemical, but when you hit it with the other chemical, that is just as effective, youre all but 100% guaranteed to 100% get rid of all of them.

Forget all that other stuff. It just slows them, and WILL NOT wipe them out.
Forbid/Avid WILL wipe them out.
Click to expand...
Seriously. On this site a lot of people answer questions really bad but this was probably one of the best replies I’ve seen.
 
i've found spinosad to be very effective, it's non toxic to humans, has a short half life, and doesn't have a strong odor.
spray it 4 times, three days apart, and it will kill them.
there are dfferent brands, i've been using "captain jack's dead bug brew" and like it a lot
 
Do you have to wait 3 weeks before switching to flower after using avid. Because I know from my first run I only vegged for 20 days because this dwc setup grows so quick
 
i think it would be alright to start flower after you sprayed it, as the flowers would all be new growth, and wouldn't have the avid on them.
i don't think avid is systemic, if it isn't, you're good, if it is, you should wait the three weeks
 
Some insecticides/miticides have translaminar, or local, systemic activity. These materials penetrate leaf tissues and form a reservoir of active ingredient within the leaf. This provides residual activity against certain foliar-feeding insects and mites. Insecticides/miticides with translaminar properties include aba-mectin (Avid), pyriproxyfen (Distance), chlorfenapyr (Pylon), spinosad (Conserve), and acephate (Orthene). In general, these types of materials are active against spider mites and/or leafminers. Because the active ingredient can move through plant tissues (that is, leaves), thorough spray coverage is less critical when using these materials to control spider mites, which normally feed on leaf undersides.
 
jimihendrix1 said:
Some insecticides/miticides have translaminar, or local, systemic activity. These materials penetrate leaf tissues and form a reservoir of active ingredient within the leaf. This provides residual activity against certain foliar-feeding insects and mites. Insecticides/miticides with translaminar properties include aba-mectin (Avid), pyriproxyfen (Distance), chlorfenapyr (Pylon), spinosad (Conserve), and acephate (Orthene). In general, these types of materials are active against spider mites and/or leafminers. Because the active ingredient can move through plant tissues (that is, leaves), thorough spray coverage is less critical when using these materials to control spider mites, which normally feed on leaf undersides.
Click to expand...

That acephate can be some serious shit.And the stench that comes off that shit is foul for real.

It needs to be used carefully as it can fuck up a garden quicker than what you're tryin to kill.

I used it for root aphids.
 
I have that shit in the can it came in.....sealed....inside of a gallon ziplock freezer bag.I can still smell it when i go into the shed.YUK SON!!!!!!!!!
 
Yes you can and the more determined and passionate about wiping them out, the more success you will have.

Rosemary oil, is the answer.

Search rosemary oil and spider mites.

I use one ounce of Rosemary to a gallon of water. Also add a little squirt of dishwashing liquid and spray away. I first started with a trigger spray bottle. It took too long and was not giving me 100% coverage. So I bought a powered Wagner paint sprayer. The Wagner sprayer give 100% coverage.

The Rosemary oil will kill all the mites and their eggs. Spray every 2 days for 5 total sprayings. And they will be gone.

Spray just before lights out, or in the veg room, turn the lights off for 4 hours. Leave a light on in the room so they don’t think they are going into a dark period if you veg under 24 hours of light.

Once you wipe out the mite infestation, cut back to 2 sprayings per week then down to one spraying a week.

In conjunction with Rosemary spraying once a week, introduce prediator mites, and never look over your shoulder ever again for mites :))))

Happy growing :)
 
2 tsp neem oil, 1/4 tsp dishsoap, 1 liter warm water. Shake well and spray every 3 days for 9 days. No more spider mites.
 
Tried sprays for two weeks seem like I was winning I threw hotshot no pest strip I. Behind a fan. About a week later now and it’s been all fresh growth no more mites or that one house fly that was stuck in my tent he dead as well. Tent vents directly outside. No pest strips for the win.
 
Redman87 said:
I’m currently fighting some spider mites at the moment. I got some botanigard maxx and forbid on the way. Got some fatty acids knocking them down right now I feel like I can still win the battle because plants are still really small at the moment. So it’s easy to get the fatty acids all over the leaves. Plus since it’s so early I want to hit it with forbid. My grower I’m learning from dunks in avid but from my research I believe forbid is the better option.
Click to expand...

There's absolutely no reason to use avid or forbid for regular spider mites. I've used both Azamax and Monterey Gardens spinosad with 100% success. You just have to make sure that you stick to the schedule of spraying three times once every three days and be sure you don't miss the slightest bit of leaf surface.

Leave the Avid and Forbid for the russet and broad mites.
 
Redman87 said:
I’m currently fighting some spider mites at the moment. I got some botanigard maxx and forbid on the way. Got some fatty acids knocking them down right now I feel like I can still win the battle because plants are still really small at the moment. So it’s easy to get the fatty acids all over the leaves. Plus since it’s so early I want to hit it with forbid. My grower I’m learning from dunks in avid but from my research I believe forbid is the better option.
Click to expand...
I told myself that if I ever got spider mites or some of the other mite-infestations, I'd start over after bleach-bombing the entire house. I admire your will to fight, but me, I'll just start over, straight up evict them. I don't want to have doubt in my mind of them coming back the remainder of the grow. That'd drive me nuts. I don't grow to sell or anything though, so I can be like that....I understand not everyone can.
 
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