Custom COB light setup

They will mount but won't sit flush on the chips.
At the end of the day I can go with the regular ones and just solder the wiring. I can even solder connectors on each COB so I can disconnect them from the series if I need to make changes. I have hundreds of different connectors laying around. It's no biggie.
 
Very bumming news. I'm going to have to change my whole grow setup. I just found out more info on the new place I'll be moving in to within the next 4 weeks.

Basically I have to use a different location than I originally planned where I can only fit a 2x2.5 tent inside. I could fit a 2x4 tent which would be great but I can't access the tent through the sides which won't work for me since the space I must keep the tent in is only 31" wide but it's a good 66" deep and 9' tall. I'm super bummed out!

So I'll be using a 2x2.5 gorilla tent and I'm thinking of going with the same Vero 29 C but with 2 or 4 COBs running at 1050ma (with 2 COBs) or 700ma (with 4 COBs). I gotta see what will work best. I'll probably make a 12"x12" square frame. I'm even considering quantum boards since it's a much smaller space.

This really sucks! :wall:
 
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Randomblame

Well-Known Member
If you have little height, I'd rather use more COB's at less current(4@700mA or 6@525 or 8@350mA).
That distributes the light more evenly, so that there is no hotspot and you can work with less distance to the canopy without getting bleeching.
I know, it's expensive but makes the light also more efficient and if you consider that the lamp will hold ~50,000h, you should build the best thing you can.
 

algy

New Member
Hi I am exactly in the same situation so I will follow your post as I am a newbie in COB:confused: before making my own set up. Thanks for all these info
 

bobrown14

Well-Known Member
If you have little height, I'd rather use more COB's at less current(4@700mA or 6@525 or 8@350mA).
That distributes the light more evenly, so that there is no hotspot and you can work with less distance to the canopy without getting bleeching.
I know, it's expensive but makes the light also more efficient and if you consider that the lamp will hold ~50,000h, you should build the best thing you can.
Not sure what the wattage works out to (cause too lazy to calculate) but I'm running Vero29s @ 100w ... canopy a few inches from the lamps... no bleaching just don't let the cola's sit right under a COB and yer good.
 
If you have little height, I'd rather use more COB's at less current(4@700mA or 6@525 or 8@350mA).
That distributes the light more evenly, so that there is no hotspot and you can work with less distance to the canopy without getting bleeching.
I know, it's expensive but makes the light also more efficient and if you consider that the lamp will hold ~50,000h, you should build the best thing you can.
I have plenty of height. With the gorilla tent I can get up to 7'7" in height. I think I will do a 12"x15" frame for the 24"x30" tent. I'm still debating on the number of COBs I want to run. I did think of doing 6 COBs in a 2x3 grid and running them below 600ma but I felt that's too many COBs in a 2x2.5 tent. Running 4 at 700ma might be what I go with. I just don't want the PPFD to be too high where I need co2 as well.

I'm just really bummed that I can only grow 1 plant at a time. It's hard to get over when I was planning on growing 4 at once in a 3x3 tent. It's a huge downgrade. The only thing I can think of is getting a small box or something to veg in so that I have constant supply instead of veg and flower in the same tent which takes time from start to finish.
 
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I'm trying to find out if tents can be opened on the sides. If so then I can get a 2x4 tent and fit 3 plants. That's much better than just 1 plant. Does anyone know if the zipper can go all around the tent and open up the side as well? I never had a tent so I don't know how they work.
 

Rahz

Well-Known Member
Why not just line the walls with white plastic or panda plastic? If you need something to hang the light without messing up the walls a bare frame made from 1x2s would do the trick, then panda plastic the frame with the side open.
 
Why not just line the walls with white plastic or panda plastic? If you need something to hang the light without messing up the walls a bare frame made from 1x2s would do the trick, then panda plastic the frame with the side open.
I want a tent so that I can always tear it down when I need to and put it back up again. And ventilation would be easier for me with a tent.

I think the tents use a zipper all around so I should be able to open up the side and gain access. As long as that's possible then I can easily use a 2x4 tent which wouldn't be all that bad.
 

bobrown14

Well-Known Member
Some tents have access on 2 sides .... haven't seen one yet that have all sides with zippers.

8 COBs in a 2x4 is a lot I think.

Your canopy won't be 7'7", lights have to attach to the framework and the COBs have pretty deep heat sinks (unless going active) so probably you lamp at the highest will be a little under 7'.

My lights are at about ~6' as I leave some room above the heat sinks and have fans on all of them. I consistently grow plants to 5'6-10" right almost to the lights. Tie em back if they get too close. Plants wont grow too far past the lights...also good penetration to the soil line.
 
Some tents have access on 2 sides .... haven't seen one yet that have all sides with zippers.

8 COBs in a 2x4 is a lot I think.

Your canopy won't be 7'7", lights have to attach to the framework and the COBs have pretty deep heat sinks (unless going active) so probably you lamp at the highest will be a little under 7'.

My lights are at about ~6' as I leave some room above the heat sinks and have fans on all of them. I consistently grow plants to 5'6-10" right almost to the lights. Tie em back if they get too close. Plants wont grow too far past the lights...also good penetration to the soil line.
The gorilla tent comes with a free 12" extension kit and you can get an additional 12" extension on top of that. I'll have more than enough height. Looking at the assembly of the tent it seems to have a zipper all around it starting from the center of the rear and zips all around to the center of the front. That's on each side. I can just unzip it until the whole side is exposed and stop right before I get to the rear point. It seems like only gorilla tents have this feature which is great although I haven't confirmed that.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Not sure what the wattage works out to (cause too lazy to calculate) but I'm running Vero29s @ 100w ... canopy a few inches from the lamps... no bleaching just don't let the cola's sit right under a COB and yer good.
How much total wattage, how much surface, tent or no tent?
Bleaching also depends on ppfd.
One 100w COB, 2"x 2" area-no tent, no bleaching below 12".
Two 100w COB's, same area but in a tent, most probably bleaching below 12".
Reflective walls makes also a huge difference.
And at last, it depends on the used strains, some strains are more sensitive to high irradiation than other.
I've ~370w, a 9sft' tent(white, 28x 48"), 8 COB's@1050mA + 24 OsramOslon SSL80 hyperred, ~900-1000μMol/s/0,84m² and most of the strains showing signes of light stress below 16".
At 20" and above no lightstress!
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
I have plenty of height. With the gorilla tent I can get up to 7'7" in height. I think I will do a 12"x15" frame for the 24"x30" tent. I'm still debating on the number of COBs I want to run. I did think of doing 6 COBs in a 2x3 grid and running them below 600ma but I felt that's too many COBs in a 2x2.5 tent. Running 4 at 700ma might be what I go with. I just don't want the PPFD to be too high where I need co2 as well.

I'm just really bummed that I can only grow 1 plant at a time. It's hard to get over when I was planning on growing 4 at once in a 3x3 tent. It's a huge downgrade. The only thing I can think of is getting a small box or something to veg in so that I have constant supply instead of veg and flower in the same tent which takes time from start to finish.
I'd go with ~200w's! 40 per sft!
5 COB's á 36v @1050mA or 8@700mA, a HLG-185 B driver would fit perfect.
 

Jimmyclone42

Well-Known Member
Does any light leak from the base of the reflector? I'm fine if it's not sitting flush to the COB as long as there's no light leak and it's all being directed where it's meant.
Sorry for the late reply... I have no light leak at all.. You will need longer screws to accommodate the built in reflector lip on the se plus the real reflector on top.. I will try to snap a photo here later..
 
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