Crimea Blue 2nd Grow.

Concord Dawn

Well-Known Member
hey bro, was doing some reading and found this:

The idea is to get the soil evenly moist all the way to the bottom of the pot. If you use a little water, even if you do it often, it seeps just a short way down into the soil and any roots below the moist soil will start to turn upwards toward the water. The second most important thing about watering is to see to it that the pot has good drainage. There should be some holes in the bottom so that any excess water will run out.

If the pot won't drain, the excess water will accumulate in a pocket and rot the roots of the plant or simply make the soil sour or mildew. The soil, as we said earlier, must allow the water to drain evenly through it and must not become hard or packed. If you have made sure that the soil contains sand and pearlite, you shouldn't have drainage problems.

To discover when to water, feel the soil with your finger. if you feel moisture in the soil, you can wait a day or two to water. The soil near the top of the pot is always drier than the soil further down. You can drown your plant just as easily as you can let it get too dry and it is more likely to survive a dry spell than it is to survive a torrential flood. Water the plants well when you water and don't water them at all when they don't need it.
 

DarkCursade

Active Member
Hey mate

Try this with your watering I made this post in another thread: https://www.rollitup.org/3741054-post22.html

Reasons to water this way, helps keep roots inside the pot rather than searching for water, it also waters the pot even ly, making watering intervals more consistant. It also helps with fungus gnats which like top moist soil.:shock:
 

ataxia

Well-Known Member
hey bro, was doing some reading and found this:

The idea is to get the soil evenly moist all the way to the bottom of the pot. If you use a little water, even if you do it often, it seeps just a short way down into the soil and any roots below the moist soil will start to turn upwards toward the water. The second most important thing about watering is to see to it that the pot has good drainage. There should be some holes in the bottom so that any excess water will run out.

If the pot won't drain, the excess water will accumulate in a pocket and rot the roots of the plant or simply make the soil sour or mildew. The soil, as we said earlier, must allow the water to drain evenly through it and must not become hard or packed. If you have made sure that the soil contains sand and pearlite, you shouldn't have drainage problems.

To discover when to water, feel the soil with your finger. if you feel moisture in the soil, you can wait a day or two to water. The soil near the top of the pot is always drier than the soil further down. You can drown your plant just as easily as you can let it get too dry and it is more likely to survive a dry spell than it is to survive a torrential flood. Water the plants well when you water and don't water them at all when they don't need it.
Thanks for the info brotha, I think I've been overwatering the past few times... well actually.. I'm not positive yet ..
I've been taking the advice of Uncle Ben who says to "read your plants" .. well.. the plants have been droopy.. after watering they perk up.. the soil has never been dry except for in the beginning of my grow.
My seedlings were taking up almost 8 ounces of water every 36 hours but my temps were high and humidity was low.
BUT... I don't know if thats the problem...
as i said before i'm having Ph problems.. I water with balanced water and the runoff is coming out way low.. I figured I'd hold off on flushing but within the past 2-3 days the two girls took a turn for the worse
Lower leaves yellowing, spots on fan leaves, and also.. it seems as though some of the new growth is sprouting with holes in it.
I'm sure any experienced grower can diagnose this in a minute. Whether it's root rot or Ph problems or overwatering OR ALL OF THE ABOVE.
Im going to post pics in a bit after i scan through them to get the best angles to show the problems...
thanks again for info Concord. But as all opinions differ i was reading a great thread from icq i think. It was about watering and to use either a meter or the weight test.. if your pot is light than it's time to water. (KEEP IN MIND I'M SUMMING UP WHAT THIS POST SAID) but the grower strongly advised against sticking your finger down in the soil. I still do it .. but i get what the guy was saying in the thread.
If i find the link I'll send it your way. OH checked out your journal today ...I will be a subscriber for sure ..
 

ataxia

Well-Known Member
here's the damage so far ... these are all different plants ...one out of the three Crimea has great genetics and has grown bigger, and been more resistant to my issues
the pic from the top is LA Woman..if you look the newer set of leaves looks like its been chewed on. They're all exhibiting the same problems.... i flushed the two most damaged crimea. I don't have any distilled water at the moment so I'm waiting till tomorrow to flush the other two. Letting the water sit overnight.
the problems may be hard to see in the pics but.. up close they are apparent.
 

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Concord Dawn

Well-Known Member
bro, im really not an expert on this, but arent the pots just too small for as big as the plants are getting? found this, maybe?

As plants grow tall, their roots get long as well. If a plant is in a small pot, the roots can get bound up in a ball and prevent the plant from reaching its true potential. Transferring a root-bound plant to a new pot will bring new life and growth to your plants.

hey man, im trying, LoL
 

ataxia

Well-Known Member
bro, im really not an expert on this, but arent the pots just too small for as big as the plants are getting? found this, maybe?

As plants grow tall, their roots get long as well. If a plant is in a small pot, the roots can get bound up in a ball and prevent the plant from reaching its true potential. Transferring a root-bound plant to a new pot will bring new life and growth to your plants.

hey man, im trying, LoL
Absolutely my brother... and i've thought about this .. these plants are about 7 inches high in a 6x6 inch square pot.. It is on the smaller side.
I have grown with bigger plants in smaller pots and had no problems, then again i had some of the same problems.
These pots have MORE THAN ENOUGH drainage holes ..usually i wait till i can see a bit of root growth through the holes before i decide to repot. ALSO they were repotted from 8 ounces only about 2 1/2 weeks ago.
They will need new pots soon for sure... I'm trying to decide whether to go with another square pot or some short fat planters i have.. I believe they hold about a gallon and a half of medium maybe 2.
After the transplant and about another week or so of veg. I'm going to flip to 12/12 .. I probably will not transplant till next week. If they keep exhibiting problems, that will be my next step.
I notice on RIU plants seem so big in pics... believe me ..if you saw the girls up close you would see that they are just fine in these pots for now... but i do appreciate the help you've been giving me.. these are all things I'll have to take into consideration if my flushing shows no results..
...keep it coming with the tips my brotha.. you and i both know any bit of help is useful and i appreciate you helping me research my problems, after a while the words just start to blend together for me. so the extra help is more than welcomed:mrgreen:
 

Concord Dawn

Well-Known Member
thanks man, heres a little more,

Before planting a container-grown plant, gently knock it out of its pot to check to see if it has become root-bound. "Root-bound" just means that a thick mat of roots has built up on the outside of the rootball, due to the unnatural constraints imposed by the container. As a result, the roots can't pass nutrients to the shrub as they're supposed to. If you were to set the shrub in the ground in this state, the roots may not break free of this unnatural growing pattern.
There is a remedy. Although, if you were teased as a child, you may not like the sound of it....
The remedy is to "tease" the roots before planting. Fortunately, in the horticultural world, "teasing" doesn't have any negative connotations. Rather, it just means loosening the outer roots of the rootball, so that, once in the ground, the roots of a root-bound shrub can resume normal growth patterns again.

im thinkin about getting these,
1 gallon black nursery pots are less than 50 cents each, and 8" clear saucers are 75 cents each at a local nursery, well worth the money to have the right size pots. Here's the demensions, 6.75"x 7.25" (Diameter x Depth).
 

ataxia

Well-Known Member
Hey mate

Try this with your watering I made this post in another thread: https://www.rollitup.org/3741054-post22.html

Reasons to water this way, helps keep roots inside the pot rather than searching for water, it also waters the pot even ly, making watering intervals more consistant. It also helps with fungus gnats which like top moist soil.:shock:
I have a similar way that i water ..
i set the pot into a bigger container ...water from the top and the runoff soaks the bottom... i'' leave it there for a minute, transfer it into a steaming pot ( a cooking pot with holes) set it on top of the container ( so its not sitting in the RO water) and water a bit more till run off stops.
 

DarkCursade

Active Member
Hey ataxia

Dont transplant till the plant is nerely double the size of the pot in height. Not that I am an advanded grower but I have seen to many new growers transplanting too earlier, and I notice alot of new growers using pots way to big, big pots with small plants make it harder to get watering right, which either leads to over-watering or under-watering.:shock:
 

ataxia

Well-Known Member
Hey ataxia

Dont transplant till the plant is nerely double the size of the pot in height. Not that I am an advanded grower but I have seen to many new growers transplanting too earlier, and I notice alot of new growers using pots way to big, big pots with small plants make it harder to get watering right, which either leads to over-watering or under-watering.:shock:
that's the problem i'm having now
that's also why i know it's not time to repot... the plants aren't taking up water very fast yet.. my first and only grow ..i had a good bit of males in the beginning and i started a few dozen seeds,
i fucked with them so much... just to see what happend... flowered them after 2 weeks of veg. kept huge plants in small pots ..
and yes i've realized that having alot of roots in your pot can't necessarily be a bad thing.. i mean a good mass ... not root bound.. figure your watering more.. feeding more .. and preventing over-underwatering ... I'm not expert either by no means
I'm diggin my journal so far though.. it seems like I'm going to learn a good bit with you all giving advice... and it's helping me remember shit!!!!:weed:
 

Concord Dawn

Well-Known Member
do you have to start out in a small pot? if your final pot is gonna be a 6" or a 1 gallon nursery pot, woundnt it be better just to do the whole grow in just 1 pot w/o transplanting? asuming you can water it right the whole time. again no expert here either, just askin and learin, LoL.
 

ataxia

Well-Known Member
do you have to start out in a small pot? if your final pot is gonna be a 6" or a 1 gallon nursery pot, woundnt it be better just to do the whole grow in just 1 pot w/o transplanting? asuming you can water it right the whole time. again no expert here either, just askin and learin, LoL.
I don't have the definite answer to that question.. you always get different answers on here .but ...yeah i'm sure it may be better to start off in one pot (as long as you water right the whole time) but for me..
I think it would be hard... like this grow ..i transfered from 8 oz cups to 6x6 ( 3.4 liters) which is almost a gallon actually .. I didn't realize this till just now..
but anyways i think if your still learning you can go balls deep and try with one pot
In my opinion though ..i would start out in a very small pot.. and then either transplant to a final pot ..or transplant to medium then large.
but they say it's the one of the most stressful things you can put your plant through... I've never had a problem.. but i think it's all up to what works for you.
What are you thinking about doing for your grow??
 

DarkCursade

Active Member
Hey Concord,

You can use any size of pot u want, but its much easier to start off in smaller pots.

Transplanting is super easy and if you have a massive root mass the whole plant & root ball will just slide out no problem, and you wont shock your plant.:shock:
 

Concord Dawn

Well-Known Member
Hey Concord,

You can use any size of pot u want, but its much easier to start off in smaller pots.

Transplanting is super easy and if you have a massive root mass the whole plant & root ball will just slide out no problem, and you wont shock your plant.:shock:

cool man thanks, i was just thinking that when i got some good seeds that i would just start them in 30mm jiffy peat pellets in a dome and when they sprout and have roots, put them right in to the gallon pot. and i only have 2 pots so once planted, i wouldnt have to touch them again, LoL
 

growthspurt

Well-Known Member
do you have to start out in a small pot? if your final pot is gonna be a 6" or a 1 gallon nursery pot, woundnt it be better just to do the whole grow in just 1 pot w/o transplanting? asuming you can water it right the whole time. again no expert here either, just askin and learin, LoL.

If the pot size that is recommended or desired is less than 2 gallons or less I think its less work and less stress on the plant to plant DIRECTLY. If you need more than 2 gallons then it might be best to transplant.


for example all autoflowers should be planted in their final place from start.

The AK-47's that I got going in my current grow say to plant directly, here is the back of the card they sent with the seeds.

 

Concord Dawn

Well-Known Member
If the pot size that is recommended or desired is less than 2 gallons or less I think its less work and less stress on the plant to plant DIRECTLY. If you need more than 2 gallons then it might be best to transplant.
thanks man, makes sense to me, i mean the plant doesnt know if its in a party cup or a 2 gallon pot, so why not just start it off in the 2 gallon pot and save the hassle of transplanting. if you have the room of course.
 

ataxia

Well-Known Member
i've been waiting to post pics .. the past two days ive flushed all of my plants and have started germing 2 sweet seeds Cream Caramel
not sure why i did this but i'm observing the Crimea and weeding out the genetics of which ones i'll flower and which one i'll keep as a mother . Also have my L.A. Woman which i want to flower just to taste the smoke. It was only one seed so we'll see how the genetics go.
also the Cream Caramel ..well..
I feel like i want to try a different strain and see how it reacts differently. The Crimea seem to display the same character .. L.A. Woman hasn't shown herself off yet. so i 'm dying to try the Sweet Seeds. I hear their genetics are terrific. and the strain itself is very stable... I'll post pics soon ... its been a few days but i wan't too see how much they took off and/or/if improved compared to last time.
the roots of Crimea are growing well.. taking up water nicely. but i still think i'm running into a problem somwhere with ph. or maybe i just need new soil or add a few things to stabilize it.
we will see by tomorrow ...
 

growthspurt

Well-Known Member
thanks man, makes sense to me, i mean the plant doesnt know if its in a party cup or a 2 gallon pot, so why not just start it off in the 2 gallon pot and save the hassle of transplanting. if you have the room of course.
lol exactly, mine are currently like 1.5 gallons so they should be good for the whole grow, less soil does not mean smaller plant, it just means watering/maintenance more often and levels changing quicker since there is less soil.

Technically you could grow the plant in a shot glass, you would have to have a drip feeding system that would feed it water and nutes pretty much on a LIVE basis. That would mean that at that exact moment the plant is looking for xyz amount of water it drips and sucks it up. Live nutrients to me would be nutrients used immediately upon dripping as opposed to sitting in the soil... dont know if I made sense but it felt like it in my head.LOL
 
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