Cost of az Eectricity, might surprise u

i have an 8,000 btu a/c unit but haven't set it up yet because i also have central air and vent to my attic. do you think i would actually save money by sealing the room again and running the portable a/c? wouldn't it be the same difference really? - its takes about 7.5 amps i think im only running 1 light right now so the room stays at 75 with central air, but this only works in the summer when we are using the a/c. i also live in a 4 bedroom 2 level house so my a/c works pretty hard anyway, i just thought it was cheaper to vent to the attic than to add the unit to the room.
 
Redbird1223 said:
i have an 8,000 btu a/c unit but haven't set it up yet because i also have central air and vent to my attic. do you think i would actually save money by sealing the room again and running the portable a/c? wouldn't it be the same difference really? - its takes about 7.5 amps i think im only running 1 light right now so the room stays at 75 with central air, but this only works in the summer when we are using the a/c. i also live in a 4 bedroom 2 level house so my a/c works pretty hard anyway, i just thought it was cheaper to vent to the attic than to add the unit to the room.
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Your fine I would leave it that way... I pull air from the bedroom next door ( I cut a hole in the closet so you cant see it ) and that air goes through my hoods and into the attic. I wouldnt add the unit to the room you already have AC in there and temps are fine adding a portable AC will just add to your electric bill.
 
Redbird1223 said:
i have an 8,000 btu a/c unit but haven't set it up yet because i also have central air and vent to my attic. do you think i would actually save money by sealing the room again and running the portable a/c? wouldn't it be the same difference really? - its takes about 7.5 amps i think im only running 1 light right now so the room stays at 75 with central air, but this only works in the summer when we are using the a/c. i also live in a 4 bedroom 2 level house so my a/c works pretty hard anyway, i just thought it was cheaper to vent to the attic than to add the unit to the room.
Click to expand...

Let me ask you, how much does your central air use every time it kicks on? I bet it's a lot more than 7.5 AMPS. If you can run a sealed room, with a standalone A/C unit you will save money over running a non-sealed room. Period.

I would guarantee people that are telling you to vent to attic have never compared their bill to when they ran their room sealed (probably never run a true sealed environment). I have done the mathematics in multiple threads, but especially in AZ, you will save money going sealed in the summer months, and cutting your central a/c out of the equation.
 
Something else no one has mentioned in this thread that can help combat heat is an Icebox (or a DIY one). It ends up being MUCH more efficient for the cost of electricity when compared to running a non-sealed environment that relies on a Central A/C.
 
1337hacker said:
Let me ask you, how much does your central air use every time it kicks on? I bet it's a lot more than 7.5 AMPS. If you can run a sealed room, with a standalone A/C unit you will save money over running a non-sealed room. Period.

I would guarantee people that are telling you to vent to attic have never compared their bill to when they ran their room sealed (probably never run a true sealed environment). I have done the mathematics in multiple threads, but especially in AZ, you will save money going sealed in the summer months, and cutting your central a/c out of the equation.
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ALWAYS gotta factor in the cost of Co2 though too. I agree with you but Co2 costs of $100+ a month sometimes can counter balance
 
st0ned said:
I imagine it will suck a lot of electricity, but not nearly as much as my central AC right?

Any input on what btu to get on a portable?

Edit: The room is roughly 10x10 and is running 2x 1000W.
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Just get a 14,000btu Koldfront online and be done with it. Unless you are going to use Co2. In which case you should just get a 14,000btu window unit. That will cover you up to 4000 watt room roughly
 
Lucius Vorenus said:
ALWAYS gotta factor in the cost of Co2 though too. I agree with you but Co2 costs of $100+ a month sometimes can counter balance
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A 100 dollar cost in co2 per month:
1) A very large grow of at least 8k watts and 240 SQ. FT (12 x 20, 24 x 10)
2) A room that didn't get sealed properly

In the former case, you will be pulling enough that 100 a month is the least of your concerns... In the latter, your just fucking around.
 
1337hacker said:
Let me ask you, how much does your central air use every time it kicks on? I bet it's a lot more than 7.5 AMPS. If you can run a sealed room, with a standalone A/C unit you will save money over running a non-sealed room. Period.

I would guarantee people that are telling you to vent to attic have never compared their bill to when they ran their room sealed (probably never run a true sealed environment). I have done the mathematics in multiple threads, but especially in AZ, you will save money going sealed in the summer months, and cutting your central a/c out of the equation.
Click to expand...


SO you are saying seal the room up and close off the central AC vent?? Using the portable AC to keep the room cool?? I do this in the summer months but only in veg. I have a single hose portable AC and I use it the same way you describe but only in veg because I use co2 in flower it would just suck my co2 out of my room. And yes it is cheaper because when I go to work I can put my thermostat on 80 degrees when no one is home. My room is very sealed. I weather stripped the one door, flanged and caulked all my holes that were cut in the wall/ceiling .
 
1337hacker said:
A 100 dollar cost in co2 per month:
1) A very large grow of at least 8k watts and 240 SQ. FT (12 x 20, 24 x 10)
2) A room that didn't get sealed properly

In the former case, you will be pulling enough that 100 a month is the least of your concerns... In the latter, your just fucking around.
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I agree you have to have a commercial size grow and using 50 lb tanks to be spending that much.. I spend 40 dollars a month.. 2 refills per month pretty much on 20 lb tanks.
 
BeaverHuntr said:
SO you are saying seal the room up and close off the central AC vent?? Using the portable AC to keep the room cool?? I do this in the summer months but only in veg. I have a single hose portable AC and I use it the same way you describe but only in veg because I use co2 in flower it would just suck my co2 out of my room. And yes it is cheaper because when I go to work I can put my thermostat on 80 degrees when no one is home. My room is very sealed. I weather stripped the one door, flanged and caulked all my holes that were cut in the wall/ceiling .
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You're right, a single hose a/c will ruin your chances of going sealed. The only way of doing it efficiently is with a wall/window a/c or a minisplit. In A/Z there is pretty much no way to get both proper co2 levels and efficient air cooling. Blowing air into the room can cause a positive pressure which wastes your co2 as well, so you really need a unit that has an air exchanger that cools the air in the room only.

To properly seal a room you should probably close off the central a/c vent as well since it will cause a positive pressure when it blows cool air into the room.

They do make portable a/c units that have completely sealed compressors, but the price of those are very high (like 2500 new for a 1 ton unit) . They are also just as effective as a split a/c or a wall mount and have the convenience of portability.

That is what makes an icebox set up so attractive.. when used correctly it can cool down the room, the lights, and you can remain sealed.
 
Lucius Vorenus said:
Just get a 14,000btu Koldfront online and be done with it. Unless you are going to use Co2. In which case you should just get a 14,000btu window unit. That will cover you up to 4000 watt room roughly
Click to expand...

a 14000 BTU unit will have to work overtime to run a truly sealed room in AZ with 4k watts. The math calculations used by an HVAC technician are roughly follows (these are ripped off a farmer from a different forum when I asked him the same question):

SQ. FT of exterior walls and attic walls * 40 BTU = BTU used to cool the room from outside heat sources
+
40 BTU * sq ft of area (based on standard 8 foot cielings) = BTU used to cool the air already in the room
+
3750 * Number of lights (non cooled lights) = BTU used for electronics of lights

Any other electronics you might run in the room (dehumidifier, chillers etc) all have BTU ratings that will need to be added into the equation as well. In the case of my room 4k Watts required a 24K Btu Minisplit unit to properly cool down in the summer months efficiently. (2 exterior walls and an attic above me)

The most efficient A/C you can possibly get for going sealed is a Minisplit with inverter technology.

You will want to make sure your unit is the right size, to prevent it from constantly working, and to prevent it from short cycling in the case that it is too big for the area it is cooling.
 
I have a 14k btu Koldfront single hose cooling a room with 3400 watts. It's been doing ok for the past 3 months. Holding 76 in that room with no problems. The ballasts are also in that room.
 
Well we all know mini splits are the way to go. Central AC is just the way to go in AZ at least for me a hobby grower I dont grow more than 12 plants and just dont need one. I go in my grow room at least once a day anyways and I always leave the door open for 10-20 minutes just for air circulation. Everything has been working fine so far.
 
So you dont run it sealed, meaning your central a/c is contributing to cooling your 3kw grow. A few moments before you were recommending others to run sealed 4kw rooms in az with a unit that would not do it.. Your example is basically moot.
 
Having trouble quoting on my cell, but beavr, a window unit can do the same that a split does for sealed efficiency (but may be less secure or against your hoa)
 
1337hacker said:
So you dont run it sealed, meaning your central a/c is contributing to cooling your 3kw grow. A few moments before you were recommending others to run sealed 4kw rooms in az with a unit that would not do it.. Your example is basically moot.
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I'm pretty sure that was intended for Lucious..
My question is. How does the central AC vent in a sealed room no longer make your room "sealed" I mean I have compared my co2 tank usage with growers who have a sealed room with mini split and I'm pretty much right on par with them when it comes to co2 refills. Im no HVAC expert so please explain.
 
1337hacker said:
So you dont run it sealed, meaning your central a/c is contributing to cooling your 3kw grow. A few moments before you were recommending others to run sealed 4kw rooms in az with a unit that would not do it.. Your example is basically moot.
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i was reccomending doing it yes and it would be better than what im doing it with. 14k window unit. Not portable. Big difference.
 
BeaverHuntr said:
I'm pretty sure that was intended for Lucious..
My question is. How does the central AC vent in a sealed room no longer make your room "sealed" I mean I have compared my co2 tank usage with growers who have a sealed room with mini split and I'm pretty much right on par with them when it comes to co2 refills. Im no HVAC expert so please explain.
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I don't think it needs to be covered personally but im no expert. I would consider what you're doing running a sealed whole house for the most part. The only time the seal is effectively broken is when the front door is open.
 
Lucius Vorenus said:
I don't think it needs to be covered personally but im no expert. I would consider what you're doing running a sealed whole house for the most part. The only time the seal is effectively broken is when the front door is open.
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Its a sealed room. I have taken my back up co2 controller and monitored the co2 in the house while the co2 gas was being expelled and my house co2 is 350-400 PPM.. Lights on is stays 1500 PPM in my grow room. I sealed that bitch up good.
 
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