CO2 (carbon dioxide) at Lowes

Its great to see our members are always hard at work looking for new ways to improve or sucess rate and add more insiteful informtion to this site (ANONTF) great job and good vision.

And heres my formula: 3 gallons per 100 sq ft gets me 1200-1400 ppm thats a 3x6x8' closet with the fan on only at night and for few breif moments during the light cycle. I used a digital meter and sealed my door at the floor.

3 - 1 gallon milk jugs
2 cups sugar dissolved
8 cups water 80 degrees, no more
1 tsp yeast
9' of 3/8 clear tubing
silicone

Drill hole in the cap and install 3' of clear tubing, silicone seal it and clip the other end on your light hood above the plants top. This gas falls, try and contain it.

CO2 makes the room warmer, I call it "wardrobe warming".

ALSO! when your budding and STINKY use "Excellotabs" dissolving in a pot in the room, it releases CO2 and covers the smell with Eucalyptus.

Out of curiosity, is it safe to have yeast in your grow room? In reference to the whole sugar, water, yeast idea.

That recipe won't produce anything close to steady output unless its getting stuck at about 50% completion each time because there are no micronutes for the yeast..
And CO2 doesn't make the room warmer 1sugar -> 2alcohol + 2CO2 + heat (about 10MJ for each pound of CO2 produced, which is roughly the same as burning about half the mass of CO2 in propane over the fermentation period..)

EeekAmouse said:

And heres my formula: 3 gallons per 100 sq ft gets me 1200-1400 ppm thats a 3x6x8' closet with the fan on only at night and for few breif moments during the light cycle. I used a digital meter and sealed my door at the floor.

3 - 1 gallon milk jugs
2 cups sugar dissolved
8 cups water 80 degrees, no more
1 tsp yeast
9' of 3/8 clear tubing
silicone

Drill hole in the cap and install 3' of clear tubing, silicone seal it and clip the other end on your light hood above the plants top. This gas falls, try and contain it.

CO2 makes the room warmer, I call it "wardrobe warming".

ALSO! when your budding and STINKY use "Excellotabs" dissolving in a pot in the room, it releases CO2 and covers the smell with Eucalyptus.

Click to expand...

more on these excellotabs! where u get them?

I`ve found my Sugar & Yeast system to heat up more than a bit.

It will produce more than 2/3 the heat you'd get if you burned all the alcohol you fermented..

Dude, you made your own hose out of a usb cable, and instructed ppl to do the same..
Thats hilarious.. It'll work, but thats hilarious..
(I've actually done that in a pinch a few times)

i thought fish tank tubing was cheaper than usb cables...

Not if you're tripping over hundreds of them on a daily basis because they come with pretty much anything you buy these days.. They are waay over priced if you actually need to buy one for any purpose though..

lol, soo true

It really looks like more ppl are just interested in making CO2 with simple sugar washes than there are ppl looking to multitask and brew up something nice to drink..
If you aren't interested in producing alcohol at all, then you could get 3x the CO2 yield from the sugar fermenting (well not really fermenting) under aerobic conditions.. Same recipes apply, just add an air-pump and stone.. You'd essentially be farming yeast, so make sure they get their vitamines too.. Yeast are made up of MUCH more than C H O atoms
The chemistry if you're interested is:
C6H12O6 + 6O2 -> 6H2O + 6CO2 + heat

born2killspam said:

It really looks like more ppl are just interested in making CO2 with simple sugar washes than there are ppl looking to multitask and brew up something nice to drink..
If you aren't interested in producing alcohol at all, then you could get 3x the CO2 yield from the sugar fermenting (well not really fermenting) under aerobic conditions.. Same recipes apply, just add an air-pump and stone.. You'd essentially be farming yeast, so make sure they get their vitamines too.. Yeast are made up of MUCH more than C H O atoms
The chemistry if you're interested is:
C6H12O6 + 6O2 -> 6H2O + 6CO2 + heat

Click to expand...

Yea....

That really is fermenting, and your sugar WILL produce alcohol, which you can, if you want to, distill out using a very simple still.

Take a small metal trash can and dump in the solution left over from the sugar/yeast reaction (after the liquid stops bubbling) Put a coil of rope in the center of the trash can and put a fairly wide mouthed glass container in the center. Put the trash can lid on the can, but upside down, so that it forms a little inverted cone which should center it's tip on the glass jar. Put a trash bag over the can lid and duct tape it to the sides of the can, forming a seal.
Now dump a bag of ice into the lid of the can and apply heat to the bottom of the can (gas range, propane, coleman stove, electric, etc.
The alcohol will evaporate out faster than the water because it's evaporation point is WAY lower than that of water, So it'll rise up and hit the ice cooled bottom of the trash can, recondense, run down the lid to the point, and drip into the glass container.

Warning....
The longer you apply heat to this, the more water will condense into the glass container. diluting your Booze!

Why would you want to evaporate all the alcohol away when you could convert iy to CO2? If you're suggesting that this is a good method for building a Chinese still then you're going to get ppl sick from metal poisoning.. Only copper or stainless steeil should be used to make any part of a still that will contact the vapour!
Are you confusing this aerobic respiration with the anaerobic fermentaion equation C6H12O6 -> 2C2H5OH + 2CO2 + heat ?

born2killspam said:

Why would you want to evaporate all the alcohol away when you could convert iy to CO2? If you're suggesting that this is a good method for building a Chinese still then you're going to get ppl sick from metal poisoning.. Only copper or stainless steeil should be used to make any part of a still that will contact the vapour!
Are you confusing this aerobic respiration with the anaerobic fermentaion equation C6H12O6 -> 2C2H5OH + 2CO2 + heat ?

Click to expand...

Look, DIPSHIT....

This, as in MANY of your posts is complete bullshit. If you don't know what you're talking about, and are too damn lazy to google up valid information, Then KEEP YOUR MOUTH SHUT!

1. Alcohol is the BYPRODUCT of fermantation. (Basically it's yeast shit) It, IN NO WAY, PRODUCES CO2. It, in fact kills yeast cells, stopping the fermentation process when the concentration reaches a particular percentage, which is why, if you use a hydrometer in a solution that has stopped reacting, you will still see a small amount of sugar present. Adding more yeast at this point is generally a waste, because the high alcohol content kills the new cells very quickly. You CAN use a spoonful or 2 in a new sugar water solution as a starter, but no more.

2. The "Chinese still" (Where the hell did you get THAT word?) I describe IS safe to use, since every OTHER person on the planet would know enough to CLEAN it first, and since it's galvanized(IE steel, flash coated with ZINC) it will not add anything toxic to the human body (Go to any drug store and ask for Zinc tablets)

This method was first used BY ME in 1972 to produce Hash oil, and I got the info from a book (that I STILL HAVE by the way) on this very subject. I've since used it many times as I described above to do exactly what I described (Haven't made hash oil since... it's too messy for my tastes) But I have used this method for years to both add CO2 to my grows, and to get free booze. And as you MAY be able to deduce (Not sure in YOUR case)... I'm still alive and kicking.

I'm curious....

What do you get out of all the BULLSHIT you post? Are you a cop? Or just another asshole that gets off posting BULLSHIT and LIES?


.

Go to homedistiller.org, and see what the experts have to say about galvanized steel in a still.. And a chinese still is a top condensing still like you describe.. They are neat, and perhaps push more of the flavour to the distillate than any other still, but they have many hassles, and its pretty much impossible to separate foreshots and heads with that design.. Anybody interested in distilling should research what would be the best still for their tastes, and either buy one off ebay (pretty much as cheap as you can build one, but don't get an Easy-Still), or research proper building methods.. I have a reflux still, a couple of pot-stills with thumpers, and something similar to what you describe (but not a trash-can) for the rare time I feel like a hearty drink that will hang me over..
I've talked about yeast alcohol tolerance exactly like you described in a few threads already.. Thats why I posted recipes calculated to use all the sugar before the yeast halt..
Alchohol is a byproduct of yeast respiration in an environment without dissolved O2.. In this 'mode' per se, they merely sustain themselves for the most part to conserve energy because of the inceased energy cost of harvesting all of their O2 from the sugar..
When there is dissolved oxygen, and nutrients available, the yeast will tend to
go into more of a reproductive mode.. In this mode, the dominant reaction will be the one requiring initial O2.. That is why you want to oxygenate your wash as much as possible initially so the yeast can form a colony.. A good fermentation contains more than 10 million yeast cells per mL.. In reality, both of the reactions will occur in any setup, but the eqilibrium gets shifted hugely..