Cloning Plants By Tissue Culture

pharmacoping said:

I agree, cleanliness is key, but I wouldnt keep any water anywhere near the growing cultures, even bleach water.
Ozone will steal your terpine profile in a grow room, not a good idea except for maybe exhaust, if you dont have a sealed grow.

the t5 lamp inside the tent keeps temps around 70-80, esily maintained in a tent, in a closet, in my lab room, which is climate controlled, and also where traditional cloning was taking place.

lowering humidity and increasing air flow is what will stop bud rot in its tracks, very effectively.

My opinion, 99% of my mold failures in vitro are due to infected explant material, not the pressure cooker, or room, or tools. everything is flamed off before coming in contact with another specimen. the jars, once taped up, have been impenetrable thusfar to any mites or mold, here, since moving inside tent a year ago. more failures were seen when the grow chamber was on a shelf in a room, but not one jar has gone moldy (in the tent) if they've made it for 5 days without. dirty explants cause me mold within the first few days of transfer, occasionally. and I have killed explants with bleach, alcohol trying to achieve this issue, until last year when I got good at it. I used to transfer inside a sterile zip lock, with the vessel and tools inside ! that worked very well for me, as my head could see the view from the top, very helpful with timy bits.

I like the "mote" with the two bins, but believe its overkill. 10,000 ppm(bottle of C02) for a couple hours will kill every living bug in your room, and please your plants. repeated with the breeding cycle of mites(or any pest) will rid the garden for good....then, dont take in stranger clones, unless tissue cultured, of course !!

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Yes ozone kills the smell, and probably affect's the flavor (I've never compared side by side). I probably should look into Co2 again, I've encountered some interesting sounding experiments recently involving Co2 (that could make other applications more feasible).
In the meanwhile Ozone seems like a decent way to keep a "clean room" "sterile" (or atleast as clean as possible). Besides I think Co2 is heavy and might escape under the sides of your plastic tent before reaching lethal concentrations at the highest surface in the room (or atleast take alot of bottled gas to do it)

I use a 500cfm exhaust fan and multiple low lying inlets (both inside and out, for temp control reasons). I manage heat the best I can without phase change cooling systems. I think my biggest problem is humidity and of coarse I have been putting off getting a phase change dehumidifier.
This is probably going to sound cheap (even coming from me) but I can't stand running big power through my grow room.. I hate the kind of power my lights eat up and I run relatively low light density by many peoples standards. I'm looking forward to building a greenhouse this spring, (damn near makes me horny thinking about my ladies laying out in the sun)..

I like the idea of having a dedicated micro environment to work in, (but I also like working with my bare hands in plane view) I could defiantly see the advantages to making a box like you describe. You could probably use some kind of chemical (or cleaning) glove band clamped to a ring (drain pipe?) epoxied around an arm hole on the inside. If you used Polly-carb panels and the right epoxy you could tailor build the box to your own specifications (though I would probably build 4-5 of the 6 sides out of plywood coated with a thick coat of an oil based enamel paint (like Rustoleum) and alot of silicone calking at the seams (despite copious amounts of epoxy). the top (only opening part) could be as simple as a sheet of poly-carb, a piano hinge, some weather stripping, and some kind of locking mechanism (or weight to hold it shut)..

I could also see building it from a $30 stock tank.. I use these for reservoirs and they are well built.. If you buy 2, you could nest them with water heaters in-between so you can better control temperatures (make the cords come out through the arm holes and things should fit tighter together).

Not even sure "mote" is the best description, that seems to imply that the liquid is exposed.. I'm more of less trying to use water to vacuum pack 2 totes together, if it could be sealed well enough I'm sure you would never have to worry about water loss, but where the wires from the fish tank heaters will prevent a seal I'm willing to speculate that you could need a topping off eventually. I've used a similar method to warm my cloneing/propagation flats..

I ozone 1 time a year, after the room wash in the fall, for a day, with plants in room. then back on the shelf. I've had ozoned weed totally devoid of detectable terpines and it scared the shit out of me, compared notes, sure enough true. these are exact replicated plants that stink to the highest order every day ! only happened once, while running the ozonator. my grow room is as sterile as the other side of the wall, outside, except one day a year, its really clean that day !
my tissue area is very clean, but surely not sterile, no moving air, breath held until capped/taped. when I transfer inside a flipped tote, the air is filled with lysol, and the inside is alcohol wiped with sterile paper towels, outside jars wiped also. tent door/zipper and interior is sprayed with lysol upon entry. no fancy stuff here. just the ability to flower more plants, instead of cloning more plants.

aha, the c02 does not escape a secret jardin grow tent before 10000ppm are reached in seconds, with a small bottle(20lb$20tank) of c02. not experimental at all, its standard for every seed breeder I know of, thats where I learned it
.
I only tc in a tent like that. I have a 400 sqft sealed room with a c02 gen on the wall. I can set the ppm's higher, and death occurs within an hour in both curtain divided rooms. never had mites, but they need to breathe o2 also, so they'll die too. it takes minutes to get the room to that concentration with a propane burner a quarter the size of a bbq grill. trimming in close qtrs will raise your immediate concentration near the plant to 1500ppm in seconds for comparison. also-your 3 foot plant will consume 100% of a garbage bag of 1500ppm c02 in less than an hour, depending upon temps, etc. c02 is a great solution to a hotter running room, as the metabolism increases they bum out because their c02/water/food is limiting them(liebligs law) so adjusting these factor will always result in increased weight, rate of growth, and over all health. a garden without additional c02 is limited....ambient c02 is bout 400ppm, used by your plant in a minute(one importance of moving air) instead of 1500ppm as can be consumed. outdoors is a non issue as the air immediately surrounding each leaf is exchanged infinitely, unlike an enclosed room. it was probably the most important "toy" I've purchased, and in weight/flower times, it paid for itself in the first 60 days of use.

Imagine only being allowed to breathe a fourth of the oxygen you are able to, all while being stressed out, enclosed, with artificial lighting and ......we would be much less productive breathing 1/4 of our available breath.

I run a propane heater for temperature control this time of year (but have no means of testing Co2 concentrations)..
I've read about enriching the air in a grow room with up to 1500ppm Co2 and running average temperatures up to 85 degrees. I just never really went that way because gas, system automation and temperature management costs were all expensive considering factors.. I have often fermented beer/wine in my grow room, and recently began using a propane heater (for its emissions, though I believe it might contribute to my humidity problems).

The other experiments I meant had to do with super-critical Co2 extraction techniques. (a couple different phase change systems I'm contemplating).

secret jardin tents are all but sealed, negligible leakage, 100 bucks for a small one 2x2.

what is a phase change dehumidifier? I got mine at lowes, digital, rocks, flawless automated in the grow room, $150 3 yrs later. electric heat in the house(tc) is dry so i dont need one in there.

if you get a chance to checkout c02 next to butane extraction, you'll see why the home guy goes for butane, those pressures are scarier than a handful of tane in a stainless sealed tank, run back and forth with no leaks.
c02 can target thc better, probably, but, when I "clarify" oil with heat/cooling, filtration, to remove (cbd/cbn/waxes) I end up with a product that scared montel williams and is unusable by most. it comes back from the lab sometimes at 88% and is ridiculously potent. only one patient consumes this so I do it for him. would put a girly in the er though. It's so very different than the oil containing the other compounds like terpines and cbd and cbn, which balance the psycho effects of thca.

my box has no glove hands, or cut outs, only flipped on its side, on top of a small table., in the tent. I reach inside to flame tools, transfer, and then out. no other special precautions have afforded me any better results than I have now. it cost 11 dollars at lowes, I removed the hood, set it on a small table, and turned it on its side to protect things falling from above in the 1/2 second I'm inside a jar. works great. I kneel in front of the opened tent and reach into it. only in there for a minute to do 25 transfers/incisions, inside the open end of the rubbermaid, thats opaque, letting light in. roots are sheltered from lights in a different area in a dark tub.

why not put your mini tc area in a less traveled, dry warm environment, where cords and heaters and waterbaths arent necessary? unless you're building a pro lab, then thats awesome ! I've found that a grow room is the absolute worst place to conduct tc . I could gain more success in a shed, on a work bench, next to the vice. the garden atmosphere is conducive to all kind of airborns that wont, or do(botyritus(sic)-budrot) affect ganja growing, but will def affect in vitro activity, for sure, been there.

it does add humidity. mine is a 20$ propane tank monthly,and liquid cooled by a seperate reservoir(in the cold) filled with rv antifreeze. no heat issue at all, luckily. I run the lamps and electric baseboard heat with 240volt in the growroom, but the ac and the rest of it is 120v. I am running at exactly half capacity, as planned when built. maybe wife becomes a cg also??
I pull five gallons weekly water from the dehumidifier, at a cost of 14$ monthly. barely runs daytime lites on and ac runs every 60 minutes for about 10 minutes, in the winter, longer more in the summer, average cooling cost is 68$ monthly, but at night digi thermos drop temps a bit, naturally, and it tries to get more humid.
When I grew in 6 tents I also put my jugs in there to ferment, and measured it. but its vented out without control, unless you got a controller. in the sealed room its very efficient.

Guile, I knew you would appreciate this pic, this buds for you, and ...Cheers !
thats my 10 day bad ass hooch from a store bought organic juice. use a pinch of champagne yeast instead of normal, and add a few teaspoons sugar
and its done in a week for girls, and killer in 10 days for boys.

ALL NONE BELIEVERS ,, I HAVE RESULTS/WITH PICTURES!!! in under 24 hr. of culture i have kept myself from entering the (area).i have have entered twice (91% alcohol all the way)once at about 9 hours after culture,then at 9:00am today.i saw that there was a definite change in the size of some cultures, at least 1/16 of new leafy material was observed (my afis.) on two of 6 jars.fault notes:the seal tape used (ace poly sealing tape for windows) was pealing off the jars i stretched the tape around.one taped with no stretching of tape were fine...NOT GOOD. i think i might have seen nonuniformed bump/bumps in the smoothness of the medium.(contamination???) My puter is putering so if anyone would like to post these pic for me or just for personal i could email them,my puter likes email.
gulie,,,i went and did the math last night, there are already made up equations for this math (of course) broke it down like a shot gun,,,and you don't want to know the first answer. its probably NOT right, and you are probably tired of hearing bout it,, but it was fun retrieving all the atomic weights and conversions.....the WRONG answer was:21.37g/l dip n grow...ha ha ha ha 2 hours and ?.i felt smart for a second.ha ha!!! SMART?? ah shit,, short term memory loss had me again. wish i had more jars,,, but i think for the first timer a MOCK UP for experience, to see and learn the hows and whens..i could see were i might be takeing my bed to the dump and doing the tc conversion on my last room.
as for the BETTER RESULTS off of a work bench thing,,funny deal,,my spear room is a NITRO/eletric boat and truck RC hobby room.shoved every thing to one side of the 18 ft. work counter.
Its the dustiest room in the house.this is where my clone/mother cabinet is,and now the closet with upon entry, 1st shower curtain,then closet doors then a plastic that goes from the floor to the shelf above.making a clean area within the closet.the hepa filter draws air 1/2 from inside of the clean/plastic-ed area and half from inside the shower curtain and the closet doors but out side the plastic.its winter so that room stays very cool,only heat source is the pioneer Jr grow light in the cabinet/and some morning sun.culture area is 68 -70 deg. humidity is what it is.no control.

pharmacoping said:

secret jardin tents are all but sealed, negligible leakage, 100 bucks for a small one 2x2.

what is a phase change dehumidifier? I got mine at lowes, digital, rocks, flawless automated in the grow room, $150 3 yrs later. electric heat in the house(tc) is dry so i dont need one in there.

if you get a chance to checkout c02 next to butane extraction, you'll see why the home guy goes for butane, those pressures are scarier than a handful of tane in a stainless sealed tank, run back and forth with no leaks.
c02 can target thc better, probably, but, when I "clarify" oil with heat/cooling, filtration, to remove (cbd/cbn/waxes) I end up with a product that scared montel williams and is unusable by most. it comes back from the lab sometimes at 88% and is ridiculously potent. only one patient consumes this so I do it for him. would put a girly in the er though. It's so very different than the oil containing the other compounds like terpines and cbd and cbn, which balance the psycho effects of thca.

my box has no glove hands, or cut outs, only flipped on its side, on top of a small table., in the tent. I reach inside to flame tools, transfer, and then out. no other special precautions have afforded me any better results than I have now. it cost 11 dollars at lowes, I removed the hood, set it on a small table, and turned it on its side to protect things falling from above in the 1/2 second I'm inside a jar. works great. I kneel in front of the opened tent and reach into it. only in there for a minute to do 25 transfers/incisions, inside the open end of the rubbermaid, thats opaque, letting light in. roots are sheltered from lights in a different area in a dark tub.

why not put your mini tc area in a less traveled, dry warm environment, where cords and heaters and waterbaths arent necessary? unless you're building a pro lab, then thats awesome ! I've found that a grow room is the absolute worst place to conduct tc . I could gain more success in a shed, on a work bench, next to the vice. the garden atmosphere is conducive to all kind of airborns that wont, or do(botyritus(sic)-budrot) affect ganja growing, but will def affect in vitro activity, for sure, been there.

Click to expand...

Phase change just means liquid to gas (or gas to liquid) same idea that most compressor driven refrigeration systems use.. The dehumidifiers I am most familiar with are very much like an air conditioner (infact many air conditioners have a dehumidifier setting I believe).

Perhaps I am overestimating the contamination risk. During the summer I have a feeling that the air in my place gets pretty thick with spores. Natural yeasts are common enough, it only takes a couple days to get a sour dough bread starter going (in the summer when the windows are open) I live in a pretty damp aria and I think it contributes to some pretty lively air...

If you only saw my house... I have every nook and cranny stuffed with something to make room for some project or another. Partly the reason I'm planing to build a greenhouse this spring is to move mother plants outside for a while and free up some space (not to mention saving on electricity). I have more projects than space most the time. I've even thought about buying a shipping container to turn into another project aria..

I don't honestly see myself doing much micro propagation unless I read/hear something really special dealing with genetic manipulation through carrier virus like you had mentioned earlier. (like adding the gene for DMT, Salvinorin A or an interesting Tropane alkaloid) If I go that far I would probably take it to the extreme with environmental control to protect my fragile ego (I hate repetitive failure).
Just speculating the kind of resources that might be necessary to achieve a reasonably high level of success, If I have a good idea it might help someone else (or benefit me in the future, if I do explore this further at that time).

I have considered using a small fire on demand hot water heater (like the ones for camp sites) with some sort of Co2 switch to trigger a circulating pump that would basically connect to a 50 gallon drum or radiator outside (low heat Co2).

I'm still contemplating other heat exchanger options too, like burying a couple 50 gallon drums under ground with evaporative cooling towers and fan inlets above. I figure with a couple big fans, a pond pump and some recycled radiators (or heater cores) mounted in a bezel (on either side of my air inlet) should help with temperature control without costing the kind of money AC would.

Could you draw me up a basic schematic of our Butane extraction device, a simple theory of operation would be wicked kick but too.... How to you remove the waxes and other impurity's?

By the way, I like how you think... You seem pretty resourceful...

nitro20% said:

ALL NONE BELIEVERS ,, I HAVE RESULTS/WITH PICTURES!!! in under 24 hr. of culture i have kept myself from entering the (area).i have have entered twice (91% alcohol all the way)once at about 9 hours after culture,then at 9:00am today.i saw that there was a definite change in the size of some cultures, at least 1/16 of new leafy material was observed (my afis.) on two of 6 jars.fault notes:the seal tape used (ace poly sealing tape for windows) was pealing off the jars i stretched the tape around.one taped with no stretching of tape were fine...NOT GOOD. i think i might have seen nonuniformed bump/bumps in the smoothness of the medium.(contamination???) My puter is putering so if anyone would like to post these pic for me or just for personal i could email them,my puter likes email.
gulie,,,i went and did the math last night, there are already made up equations for this math (of course) broke it down like a shot gun,,,and you don't want to know the first answer. its probably NOT right, and you are probably tired of hearing bout it,, but it was fun retrieving all the atomic weights and conversions.....the WRONG answer was:21.37g/l dip n grow...ha ha ha ha 2 hours and ?.i felt smart for a second.ha ha!!! SMART?? ah shit,, short term memory loss had me again. wish i had more jars,,, but i think for the first timer a MOCK UP for experience, to see and learn the hows and whens..i could see were i might be takeing my bed to the dump and doing the tc conversion on my last room.
as for the BETTER RESULTS off of a work bench thing,,funny deal,,my spear room is a NITRO/eletric boat and truck RC hobby room.shoved every thing to one side of the 18 ft. work counter.
Its the dustiest room in the house.this is where my clone/mother cabinet is,and now the closet with upon entry, 1st shower curtain,then closet doors then a plastic that goes from the floor to the shelf above.making a clean area within the closet.the hepa filter draws air 1/2 from inside of the clean/plastic-ed area and half from inside the shower curtain and the closet doors but out side the plastic.its winter so that room stays very cool,only heat source is the pioneer Jr grow light in the cabinet/and some morning sun.culture area is 68 -70 deg. humidity is what it is.no control.

Click to expand...

I'm a little unclear about the Dip'n Grow mix ratio... what have you determined to be the correct dilution rate to acheive the 1.5ppm IBA you were after?

Nitro toys are always fun, I useto do airplanes and wanted to try boats (I've seen some fast ones). I have played with RC cars and helicopters too but strictly electric on them (so I could run them indoors).

my c02 generator is exactly what you describe with a bunch of ul listed safety switches, no gas, no 02,too hot, no water shut off, etc. however it is an obvious retrofit by a reputable company(advanced nutrients) and was well worth the hassle avoidance for 399 delivered. no fail for three yrs now. I cant draw, but google has the tamisium.
three parts pictured above, top is butane, middle is herb, bottom is holding tank. liquid butane gas is manipulated via heat/cold thus moved at a controlled rate from one tank, through the herb, to the other tank, then evap'ed back to the butane tank, leaving the extract in the holding tank, and the butane for reuse, and never exposed to the air around you.

waxes and impurities can be removed with acids, or the way most of us do it, temperature manipulation, filtration. wax freezes, oil doesnt...that should get you going, trichomes and other impurities are removed with activated carbon or even coffee filters. I cut mine with 99%alcohol, mix it in a magnetic stirrer for a hour with a pouch of carbon, then evap the few mls of alcohol until its original weight, then comes amber glass/shatter,and some other treats. the perfect temperatures manipulate without adversely affecting the extract. experience will teach faster than a manual for sure. its an expensive hobby, so we tend to pay attention and learn quickly. try to preserve your terpines by keeping the heat gentle, after decarboxylation. when you smell the right end, you'll never forget it and it'll set the bar for your future extracting. be careful, it is uber potent, google the er visits from extracts.
Matt Rize has some awesome information available free, here too !.
I got to get around to telling him I dug out the bags for the first time, gonna give ice a chance, and he inspired me.winkwink

Guile said:

I'm a little unclear about the Dip'n Grow mix ratio... what have you determined to be the correct dilution rate to acheive the 1.5ppm IBA you were after?

Nitro toys are always fun, I useto do airplanes and wanted to try boats (I've seen some fast ones). I have played with RC cars and helicopters too but strictly electric on them (so I could run them indoors).

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yeah me to,,it dont break dont by 2s? unclear on ppms and how they split to make 1 more part a million.but this is the basic formula i used. i just added the naa atomic mass (1263000g/ml) to the solution its dilute in,in this case its 3ch80 witch is .7854 g/ml....then iba @ 127000g/ml.,,,total contains @2 fl.oz or 60ml by weight/mass.1%iba .5naa 95.5 other/3ch80.THEN:Example #9: The density of an aqueous solution of nitric acid is 1.430 g/mL. If this solution contained 36.00% nitric acid by mass, how many mL of the solution would be needed to supply 150.20 grams of nitric acid?Solution path #1:
1) 1.000 mL of solution weight 1.430 g, of which 36.00% is HNO[SUB]3[/SUB]
2) 1.430 x 0.3600 tells you the grams of HNO[SUB]3[/SUB] in each mL of solution.
3) 150.20 g divided by the grams of HNO[SUB]3[/SUB] per one mL of solution.
Solution path #2:
1) Determine how many mL of the solution you need:
2) Determine the volume of solution that weighs 417.2 g:

hey i got a bunch of real baby food jars,but the lids arnt what i thought. i dont know if u seem them... u probably have,, no good or can they cook and not melt the rubbery part and then push down hard to seal and into a zip lock?i answered it i guess,,just get a box of jars...its about $$$$ right now..should watch myself. spending is fun to.

nitro20% said:

yeah me to,,it dont break dont by 2s? unclear on ppms and how they split to make 1 more part a million.but this is the basic formula i used. i just added the naa atomic mass (1263000g/ml) to the solution its dilute in,in this case its 3ch80 witch is .7854 g/ml....then iba @ 127000g/ml.,,,total contains @2 fl.oz or 60ml by weight/mass.1%iba .5naa 95.5 other/3ch80.THEN:Example #9: The density of an aqueous solution of nitric acid is 1.430 g/mL. If this solution contained 36.00% nitric acid by mass, how many mL of the solution would be needed to supply 150.20 grams of nitric acid?Solution path #1:
1) 1.000 mL of solution weight 1.430 g, of which 36.00% is HNO[SUB]3[/SUB]
2) 1.430 x 0.3600 tells you the grams of HNO[SUB]3[/SUB] in each mL of solution.
3) 150.20 g divided by the grams of HNO[SUB]3[/SUB] per one mL of solution.
Solution path #2:
1) Determine how many mL of the solution you need:

150.20 g nitric acid x (1 g solution/0.3600 g nitric acid) = 417.2 g solution.​

2) Determine the volume of solution that weighs 417.2 g:

417.2 g solution x (1 mL/1.430 g solution)

MY ANSWER 21.37g/l or 21370.572 mg/l,its seems like alot. I added mmmmmmm not going to say.BUT THEIR GROWING.​

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Dude, you are taking it further than it needs to go (over complicating it like I did the other day)..
You can see by the picture below that the undiluted concentrate is 10,000ppm IBA (that's all that you will glean from the math, I only went there because we had no idea how many PPM the concentrate was to start with, however assuming the base solvent had the specific gravity of water (1.0 or 1 kilogram per liter) and figuring the weight of the IBA biased on 1% of that got us dead on accurate according to the picture below)



All you need to do is use the scale for 1,500ppm IBA and dilute it 1000:1 (so you have 1.5ppm)
Thats 3 parts Dip'n Grow to 17 parts water for a total of 20 parts, like the number of drops in a milliliter... So if you made this using drops you would have 1ml of solution at a concentration of 1,500ppm (IBA).. Unfortunately that is 1,000 times too strong but if we add 999ml water we will have diluted it to a thousandth of its concentration making it 1.5ppm... in other words 3 drops per liter.... or 1ml Dip'n Grow to 7 quarts water...


All low acid food cans and jars should hold up to the heat of a pressure cooker (that's how they were canned the first time around) I haven't seen a baby food jar in a while i guess, last I noticed they still had metal lids..
If you want to make a bunch in advance and save them for latter I believe you will want to leave the lids a little loose until after they have been cooked for their prescribed time then run cold water over the pressure cooker until the pressure equalizes and immediately remove its lid then go about tightening the jar lids (the first few might still be boiling in the jar while you tighten the lids). the tops should pop in on their own as everything cools, if any don't use them first..

[video=youtube_share;BvPQaMG_S-c]http://youtu.be/BvPQaMG_S-c[/video]
[video=youtube_share;NnKrOVNtyxY]http://youtu.be/NnKrOVNtyxY[/video]
[video=youtube_share;caAB8jrcCGE]http://youtu.be/caAB8jrcCGE[/video]
[video=youtube_share;neOEWTcJ-NA]http://youtu.be/neOEWTcJ-NA[/video]
[video=youtube_share;_6u4QSAC218]http://youtu.be/_6u4QSAC218[/video]
[video=youtube_share;JIWPJ4DzvjU]http://youtu.be/JIWPJ4DzvjU[/video]
[video=youtube_share;O87lRW_0ecE]http://youtu.be/O87lRW_0ecE[/video]
[video=youtube_share;0q_XRHnn9pI]http://youtu.be/0q_XRHnn9pI[/video]

http://www.kitchenculturekit.com/index.htm

http://www.planttc.com

jkahndb0, Thanks.
This series is pretty cool (brings things into perspective).

That PPM seems pretty interesting... The MSDS says its active ingredient is proprietary...
Looks like miconazole, copper sulfate, potassium sorbate, and cycloheximide can be used to similar affect and you can know whats in them. If you preserve meat (dry/smoke) or make wine you probably have some potassium sorbate around (it looks like it is commonly used @ 100-300ppm to inhibit mold/yeast)

The big question for me is, if you mix up that growing medium minus the gelling agent and substitute Dip'n Grow for the Super Nova would it be the ideal solution for an aeronautic or DWC cloner?

ok this fuk me up more:http://abacus.bates.edu/~ganderso/biology/resources/dilutions.html
dilute a X solution by 900 every time and get 1/2? isnt that what this site is saying.im not argueing at all cause i have that same (3 drops litre) idea to....being not smarted' in this stuff,i question myself.But heres the thing, not going to say how much i put in, but if i added way way too much would i know by now? that is the $340 question..plus 22$ at ace for 8 oz. small mouth jars and plastic lids an 1hr ago.
note:metal lid caps fit into the plastic lids of ball jars,,might be a way to double seal..

like i said i got pic if anyone needs or wants ideas or just to stare at some more jars and chlorine n stuff ha ha. THIS 1st TIMER has results in progress with results as of bout 5 hours ago!!!

nitro20% said:

ok this fuk me up more:http://abacus.bates.edu/~ganderso/biology/resources/dilutions.html
dilute a X solution by 900 every time and get 1/2? isnt that what this site is saying.im not argueing at all cause i have that same (3 drops litre) idea to....being not smarted' in this stuff,i question myself.But heres the thing, not going to say how much i put in, but if i added way way too much would i know by now? that is the $340 question..plus 22$ at ace for 8 oz. small mouth jars and plastic lids an 1hr ago.
note:metal lid caps fit into the plastic lids of ball jars,,might be a way to double seal..

like i said i got pic if anyone needs or wants ideas or just to stare at some more jars and chlorine n stuff ha ha. THIS 1st TIMER has results in progress with results as of bout 5 hours ago!!!

Click to expand...

The link you provided states it right off...
1. Simple Dilution (Dilution Factor Method based on ratios)

A simple dilution is one in which a unit volume of a liquid material of interest is combined with an appropriate volume of a solvent liquid to achieve the desired concentration. The dilution factor is the total number of unit volumes in which your material will be dissolved. The diluted material must then be thoroughly mixed to achieve the true dilution. For example, a 1:5 dilution (verbalize as "1 to 5" dilution) entails combining 1 unit volume of solute (the material to be diluted) + 4 unit volumes of the solvent medium (hence, 1 + 4 = 5 = dilution factor). The dilution factor is frequently expressed using exponents: 1:5 would be 5e-1; 1:100 would be 10e-2, and so on.

I think you could use concentrations up to and perhaps above 10ppm IBA and 5ppm NAA. I get IBA in powdered form and my insert says I can use it at 50-150ppm for the "Basal Long Soak Method" submerging 1" of the cutting for 12-24hrs... At 1/5 that concentration I doubt you would see any immediate problems... You might not even see long term ones... I was thinking about going around 5-10 ppm in my cloner the next time around.. Though I will probably go lower now, like 1.5 or 3 (atleast I wont have to do the math again)... I'm thinking about foliage feeding the plants with the same solution in the cloner too...

oh to that other dude with the tub video,,my friend has a degrees in botany and she has tc experience, she seems to think that the mix may be a little strong.that video caught my eye too.i have an IQ of 1 , but this is a GGOOODDD ONE.
http://www.pakbs.org/pjbot/PDFs/41(2)/PJB41(2)603.pdf
that is the exact opposite of the videos mix,,mmmmmmmm???????

yeah im not agrueing,, AT ALL,,,,I like the 3 drop thing,wish i had a ppm meter...right,would that be helping me...
so i wonder when the contamiates will show up,,,tonight,tomorrow,,beginners luck @ 100%