myke
Well-Known Member
Your pump is on a timer? Like your circulation pump? Mine ran 24/7.
Chlorine Friendly Nutrients In Canada
- Thread starter The Older Guy
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The Older Guy
Well-Known Member
Yes, The pump is way too big for the system so I have it pump every 15 minutes. The pump is a 3/4 hp Monarc. It's what I had so with piping a bypass in which lets a lot of water back to the res before it goes to the feed lines I am able to use it, but not possible to let it go full time. The pots/coolers holds around 25L each and keeps the nutes at a pretty constant temp because of the way they are made.
The Older Guy
Well-Known Member
Have you or anyone reading this, read:
DWC Root Slime Cure aka How to Breed Beneficial Microbes
It was started in 2010 by Heisenberg.
I've just started reading it and it's very interesting. It's about a good bacteria tea and at this point in the read almost sounds like it's too good to be true...
DWC Root Slime Cure aka How to Breed Beneficial Microbes
It was started in 2010 by Heisenberg.
I've just started reading it and it's very interesting. It's about a good bacteria tea and at this point in the read almost sounds like it's too good to be true...
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
I just always sucked up what I needed in a big syringe and slowly dribbled it into the tub. Never saw any reaction from my plants. In a tall tub with 50L I'd inject 25ml of the 35% twice a week when I remembered.
When I needed to pH down I'd just add a bit of 96% sulphuric acid dropwise. 4 or 5 drops would drop 50L from 6.3 - 5.4. Would creep back to 6.3 every 3 days like clockwork. Then I got pH Perfect nutes and quit playing around with that stuff.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
You'll have to stop the peroxide if you want to use that as it will destroy it. I'd make sure you've really killed off the rot with peroxide then switch to that if you want to try it. Maybe go down to 4ml/l daily unless you're still seeing a lot of loose root fragments and signs of active rot. High levels could be damaging root tips too.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
Didn't your daddy teach that when something seems too good to be true that it probably is.
The Older Guy
Well-Known Member
Yes, I've been concerned about the root tips. Going to have a real close look today to see if I can cut back on the H2O2.You'll have to stop the peroxide if you want to use that as it will destroy it. I'd make sure you've really killed off the rot with peroxide then switch to that if you want to try it. Maybe go down to 4ml/l daily unless you're still seeing a lot of loose root fragments and signs of active rot. High levels could be damaging root tips too.
Concerning the Enzymes Komplete... I called the manufacturer in BC and they told me that there enzymes are not alive so there's no reason to stop using the H2O2. For me, that's what makes Enzymes Komplete so attractive, but I still would like to cut back on the H2O2 because of what you mentioned and also the dollars are starting to add up with the amount I'm using.
The Older Guy
Well-Known Member
I've had to use 29% H2O2, which is still pretty strong. When I add new nutrients I now add 6ml/L of 26% H2O2 and each day I now use 35% of what I put in for make up H2O2. For example: If there is around 180L left in the res and I know there's always approx. 100L in the pots; I (180+100)x6, which is 1680ml of 29% H2O2. This is the amount of 29% H2O2 I would use if all of the nutes were new. As they are not and already have H2O2 in them , I use 35% of 1680ml of 29% H2O2 which is 588ml for the make up H2O2. I round up or down. In this case I decided to round down and put 550ml of 29% H2O2 in the res. Hope this all makes sense. As you can see the cost of H2O2 can add up quiet fast, but seams to be the amount I have to use to make a notable difference.I just always sucked up what I needed in a big syringe and slowly dribbled it into the tub. Never saw any reaction from my plants. In a tall tub with 50L I'd inject 25ml of the 35% twice a week when I remembered.
When I needed to pH down I'd just add a bit of 96% sulphuric acid dropwise. 4 or 5 drops would drop 50L from 6.3 - 5.4. Would creep back to 6.3 every 3 days like clockwork. Then I got pH Perfect nutes and quit playing around with that stuff.
As far as ph... mine goes up when the nutes are new and I have to continually bring them down. I've been using Advanced Nutrients ph down, so it don't take a lot. It settles after two or three days, but as soon as I add new nutes the same thing happens. I generally add 85L at a time. I don't know if this happens with other nutes or not. I have used Advanced Nutrients in the past and I think a similar thing happened.
The Older Guy
Well-Known Member
For sure. That's why I said that and was thinking that over time anyone that read this would say "ya, no good" or "tried it and it works". I've only read one page and I think there's over 200... must be a record lolDidn't your daddy teach that when something seems too good to be true that it probably is.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
Enzymes are organic in nature and can/will be oxidized by H2O2 but if the maker claims it's safe to use both then who am I to say otherwise but it doesn't sound right to me. What is that stuff supposed to do? Suppose I could look it up but feeling lazy today.
FFS! I have a 125ml sample bottle of it sitting on my desk given to me by the owner of a now closed hydro shop in Grande Prairie about a year ago. Seems to be a cleaner and I wasn't aware it could be used in active grow systems.
Talk about old fart moments. lol
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
I always did my DWC in Rubbermaid tubs since '01 as separate entities so could deal with one tub at a time tho mostly had two going at the same time with multiple plants in each tub. That way if one tub had problems I could deal with it alone. The only time I got root rot was when there was some real dirt in the mix used to root my cuttings. Never had issues using screened ProMix HP or the old Sunshine #4 before that.
When using AN pH Perfect nute you should never screw with the pH as that messes up the tech. I just used RO water always and never bothered checking the pH after first switching from the old AN nutes that needed pH adjustments every 3 days. I bought 1L bottles of the AN Iguana Juice which has the same formulation as the old AN 3-part and doesn't have the pH Perfect tech. The 3-part that does have that is even more dilute so I had to make adjustments for that to have the same nute levels.
The Older Guy
Well-Known Member
myke has used it and from wharf he said it did a good job.(on page 4) He was the one that told me about it and that you can use H2O2 with it. I looked it up and and called the manufacture. Can't say for sure, but I think it is some sort of synthetic enzyme. Supposed to be a big help with root rot.Enzymes are organic in nature and can/will be oxidized by H2O2 but if the maker claims it's safe to use both then who am I to say otherwise but it doesn't sound right to me. What is that stuff supposed to do? Suppose I could look it up but feeling lazy today.
FFS! I have a 125ml sample bottle of it sitting on my desk given to me by the owner of a now closed hydro shop in Grande Prairie about a year ago. Seems to be a cleaner and I wasn't aware it could be used in active grow systems.
Talk about old fart moments. lol
The Older Guy
Well-Known Member
I used AN for quiet a few years.I always did my DWC in Rubbermaid tubs since '01 as separate entities so could deal with one tub at a time tho mostly had two going at the same time with multiple plants in each tub. That way if one tub had problems I could deal with it alone. The only time I got root rot was when there was some real dirt in the mix used to root my cuttings. Never had issues using screened ProMix HP or the old Sunshine #4 before that.
When using AN pH Perfect nute you should never screw with the pH as that messes up the tech. I just used RO water always and never bothered checking the pH after first switching from the old AN nutes that needed pH adjustments every 3 days. I bought 1L bottles of the AN Iguana Juice which has the same formulation as the old AN 3-part and doesn't have the pH Perfect tech. The 3-part that does have that is even more dilute so I had to make adjustments for that to have the same nute levels.
The last couple years or so I was having problems with particulates, might have been getting old stuff, hard to say; so I changed to Remo. I even put a large filter in the line, but it plugged in no time. Don't think Remo is as pricey as AN and seams pretty simple to use. Also, the mix is pretty clean. Before I switched from coco to hydroten I was using Remo and yields were good, but thinking back... when I dumped the pots the roots were always pretty brown; so I don't think this a new problem except now it's more visible.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
I got a 7 pack of little REMO bottles in a draw a few years back and they seem to work fine but cost the same as AN for the 3-parts alone. I really love the REMO VeloKelp for starting seedlings and rooted clones in soilless like ProMix. I swear you could do the whole grow with that stuff alone but isn't cheap. A guy gave me a near full gallon of it a while back so I'm using it often now.
I still use the gallon jugs of AN 3-part I bought 7 years ago but they've been down in my chilly basement so that likely helps them from deteriorating longer. Doing mostly organics in ProMix HP these days.
Brown roots often happen from colouring in the nutes themselves over time. Root rot will cause the roots to fall apart and if getting bad smells like crap.
The Older Guy
Well-Known Member
O, yes, that's a good idea. When you can keep plants separate from each other you don't have to worry if one gets something that it will spread. I like a main res because it's much easier to control the ph and temperature; also adding nutes or water although it does come with it's drawbacks...
The Older Guy
Well-Known Member
Gotcha; yes the kelp is pretty expensive. I always used it. I don't now because of the way I'm growing. I'm thinking the pots had a bit of root rot because there didn't seam to be any where near the amount of roots I thought there should be for the size of the plants.I got a 7 pack of little REMO bottles in a draw a few years back and they seem to work fine but cost the same as AN for the 3-parts alone. I really love the REMO VeloKelp for starting seedlings and rooted clones in soilless like ProMix. I swear you could do the whole grow with that stuff alone but isn't cheap. A guy gave me a near full gallon of it a while back so I'm using it often now.
I still use the gallon jugs of AN 3-part I bought 7 years ago but they've been down in my chilly basement so that likely helps them from deteriorating longer. Doing mostly organics in ProMix HP these days.
Brown roots often happen from colouring in the nutes themselves over time. Root rot will cause the roots to fall apart and if getting bad smells like crap.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
I cut the bottom off the rootballs at each transplant so there's never any long roots at the bottom of my pots at harvest either. The whole rootball is held together with a fine mesh of feeder roots from top to bottom tho. Takes a real beating to bust them up in the compost.
The Older Guy
Well-Known Member
Don't that shock the plant/slow growth when you cut the roots? Yes, roots can be very tough. You can actually damage net pots if you're in a hurry...quiet surprising.I cut the bottom off the rootballs at each transplant so there's never any long roots at the bottom of my pots at harvest either. The whole rootball is held together with a fine mesh of feeder roots from top to bottom tho. Takes a real beating to bust them up in the compost.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
I've never had my plants show signs of transplant shock doing that. This idea of roots being so sensitive is just old bro-science that's still floating around out there and repeated by those who don't really know.
Got to be 40 years ago I read about chopping a lot of the rootball off once a year to keep a mother plant long-term in the same pot. Pull it out and reduce the rootball by half or more then stuff it back in the same pot with fresh soil. Tried it on a couple plants 20 years ago and they seemed to like it and the plants really perked up and grew fast. It's like when you top a plant and the side branches start growing faster but happening to the roots.
Give it a try sometime with a spare plant but I'm pretty sure you'll like the results. I do all sorts of nasty stuff to plants just to see what happens. My revival skills have improved immensely over the last 20 years out of necessity.
The Older Guy
Well-Known Member
I'll try that sometime, and see what happens. Do you do that in hydro as well as soil? I guess trying different things is the only way to find out what works. In the past I haven't been terribly adventures lol.I've never had my plants show signs of transplant shock doing that. This idea of roots being so sensitive is just old bro-science that's still floating around out there and repeated by those who don't really know.
Got to be 40 years ago I read about chopping a lot of the rootball off once a year to keep a mother plant long-term in the same pot. Pull it out and reduce the rootball by half or more then stuff it back in the same pot with fresh soil. Tried it on a couple plants 20 years ago and they seemed to like it and the plants really perked up and grew fast. It's like when you top a plant and the side branches start growing faster but happening to the roots.
Give it a try sometime with a spare plant but I'm pretty sure you'll like the results. I do all sorts of nasty stuff to plants just to see what happens. My revival skills have improved immensely over the last 20 years out of necessity.