stoned-monkey
Well-Known Member
https://www.rapidled.com/chilled-logic-100w-puck-v2/
Anyone use/getting these? How do they compare to cxb3590 or vero29?
Anyone use/getting these? How do they compare to cxb3590 or vero29?
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Chilled logic puck?
- Thread starter stoned-monkey
- Start date
Rahz
Well-Known Member
I don't use them, but I can comment on performance compared to Vero29. The 3000K 90CRI spectrum is closest to the pucks. The Vero29C is 2.3 umol/j at 96 watts. The puck is 2.35 umol/j at nominal and if we use a 2100ma current will run at 99 watts, probably somewhere between 2.35 and 2.4 umol/j.
So they're very similar. For the price of the pucks Vero29C is a better deal. Also to consider, CLU058-1825 will outperform Vero29C and is $40 each last time I checked, so they are worth considering too.
pulpoinspace
Well-Known Member
Pucks will work for sure. Also check out qb96v2s from hlg.
3500k90cri cobs work great too
3500k90cri cobs work great too
Humple
Well-Known Member
There's nothing about COBs that inherently provides better penetration. Penetration is more an effect of diffusion than intensity. Generally (and simplistically) speaking, the more points of light, the greater the diffusion, and the greater the penetration. Strips, COBs, pucks, boards, whatever you opt for, just get as many as you can reasonably afford, and spread them over your canopy as evenly as you can. This also allows you to achieve greater efficiency (assuming that you'll run each emitter at a lower wattage, and closer to the canopy), so it's a win-win.
stoned-monkey
Well-Known Member
those do look nice
stoned-monkey
Well-Known Member
i do like the added 660nm but i currently have some 660 T5's.
do any of you build your own boards with custom picked diodes? i am thinking i can add uva, uvb, far red, infarad in a board nicely and ditch T5s all together.
i am new to LEDs but expanding my grow room and need another light, i am either getting a 315 cmh or two, or building some cobs/boards. i just figure the led is the future so i might as well get on the wagon now.
thanks for the replies everyone. i certainly will welcome more.
do any of you build your own boards with custom picked diodes? i am thinking i can add uva, uvb, far red, infarad in a board nicely and ditch T5s all together.
i am new to LEDs but expanding my grow room and need another light, i am either getting a 315 cmh or two, or building some cobs/boards. i just figure the led is the future so i might as well get on the wagon now.
thanks for the replies everyone. i certainly will welcome more.
Depends how you run them 1 chilled puck vs 1 Vero both at 100w the chilled is a bigger light so you have more spread Vero is smaller so you would probably have slightly higher ppfd lower down because the light is focused in a smaller place but you would have to run the Vero higher above the canopy so potentially more wasted photons. Just buy whatever is in stock at the end of the day you wouldn't notice a difference you are talking a couple percent. What cobs are you using now? Is the penetration that impressive?
macsnax
Well-Known Member
No I'm an LED newb, I'm switch over from HID. This is all new to me in the last month or so. I've been hesitant to make an order a few times because I don't want to regret my purchase. But honestly it sounds like veros, cxb's, and chilLed pucks are all good choices.
LEDs are great as long as you are ready to spend the money to do it right. Sounds like you are going to diy be ready to spend over $600 to cover a 4x4. Cbx are expensive if your budget is high enough they work great. Hlg could be added to that list I use quantum boards I like them more than cobs but I haven't used cobs in like 4 years I'm sure they are much better now. The QB96 is a great cheap light if you are ok with active cooling
macsnax
Well-Known Member
I was originally looking at qb's, but everyone told me they don't have as much penetration as cobs. So I started looking at veros and cobs.
That's not really true it's all about how it's powered 24 cobs over a 4x4 run @25w each won't have much penetration. How much penetration do you need? Might be best to stay with hps if penetration is your only concern.
macsnax
Well-Known Member
It's not, I guess I just need to pick one and run it to see for myself. I doubt I'll be disappointed. I mean in another 5 years people will probably laugh at you if your still running hps. Lol
Rahz
Well-Known Member
CXB had (and still has) a reputation as the efficiency leader, but is that still true? Looking at current datasheets seems to indicate (someone correct me if I'm wrong) 3000K 80CRI top bin is still CD. Maybe there are batches of DD but if they're not in the datasheets I guess availability is low. CD as top bin has been the case for a few years now. Meanwhile Bridgelux, Samsung, Luminous, etc. have all been pushing the limits. I wouldn't consider CXB for a current build. I would consider Bridgelux, Citizen, Samsung, and Luminous.
Yeah just go for it the difference in penetration is inches
Humple
Well-Known Member
Not looking to start an argument, but I must disagree. At an appropriate height from the canopy, 25 COBs, at 25w each, should offer better penetration than fewer, higher-powered emitters. Granted, you would have to keep the light closer to the canopy to achieve your target PPFD, but once set at the optimal height, that PPFD should be more evenly distributed (uniformity will be better) and wall losses will be reduced. The whole intensity=penetration paradigm is a leftover from the HID days, where people were working with a single point-source - in that case, I think it was really just a matter of seeing better penetration because there was more light to be diffused in the first place (when comparing say a 600w HPS to a 1000w HPS).
Here's an article on the benefit of diffuse light.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4559655/
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