Cheap butane vs expensive...

JungleTime

Well-Known Member
Anyone have experiences blasting with cheap and expensive butane? I just use the cheap 3 dollar a can but someone recently told me if you use butane like the vector 14x refined it nearly gets double the yield. Its kinda hard to believe so I thought I would ask you guys.

Is there any truth to more expensive butane increasing yield? And if so is it nearly double the yield? Or these mother fuckers blowing smoke up my ass
 

MedicalMike420

Well-Known Member
No it won't double your yield. If they are using vector they probably know just as much as you. Crappy butane brands might say X5, X10, X14 but in the end it's all the same shit, and it is in fact shit. It's not pure butane and it also contains contaminants, then they package it in those cheap crappy cans which arnt always made of safe materials.
Use N-Butane in poly-lined cans only. STöK, Capital and puretane are the three companies that make "BHO safe" N-butane.
Maybe Google N-Butane vs ISO-butane for some further info.
Anything that isn't Nbutane you are just poisoning yourself with.
All these brands are 10$+ per can, and if you can't afford this then you can't afford to make safe bho. Don't bargain shop for butane, what brand are you paying 3$ for!?
Anything that's not 99.99% nbutane is just lighter fluid in my opinion

You think your cool making bho, and trying to get maximum profit but your not going to be so cool when you get lung problems from it. It's a shame. I certainly hope you arnt selling it to people.
You should do more research before making any more BHO
Research how the extraction works, find out why people use butane and what it does to the weed to turn it into dabs.
Use safe nbutane
What brand butane are you using?
Bho isn't something that you can just watch and see, then repeat at home. You have to learn what your doing starting from safe environments, safe solvents, and what the process you are doing actually is.
 

JungleTime

Well-Known Member
No it won't double your yield. If they are using vector they probably know just as much as you. Crappy butane brands might say X5, X10, X14 but in the end it's all the same shit, and it is in fact shit. It's not pure butane and it also contains contaminants, then they package it in those cheap crappy cans which arnt always made of safe materials.
Use N-Butane in poly-lined cans only. STöK, Capital and puretane are the three companies that make "BHO safe" N-butane.
Maybe Google N-Butane vs ISO-butane for some further info.
Anything that isn't Nbutane you are just poisoning yourself with.
All these brands are 10$+ per can, and if you can't afford this then you can't afford to make safe bho. Don't bargain shop for butane, what brand are you paying 3$ for!?
Anything that's not 99.99% nbutane is just lighter fluid in my opinion

You think your cool making bho, and trying to get maximum profit but your not going to be so cool when you get lung problems from it. It's a shame. I certainly hope you arnt selling it to people.
You should do more research before making any more BHO
Research how the extraction works, find out why people use butane and what it does to the weed to turn it into dabs.
Use safe nbutane
What brand butane are you using?
Bho isn't something that you can just watch and see, then repeat at home. You have to learn what your doing starting from safe environments, safe solvents, and what the process you are doing actually is.
lmfao I've been making bho for a while, i know what im doing. Sounds like you dont know jack shit. ALL butane you buy at a head shop is N-butane. There are plently of butane cans that are 3 dollars that people have been using to make bho for years.

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Butane-Super-Refined-Fuel/dp/B0055OMEZU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1456221376&sr=8-4&keywords=5x+butane

3 bucks a can and just about every head shop has their house brand that is 3 dollars. And you state this
No it won't double your yield. If they are using vector they probably know just as much as you. Crappy butane brands might say X5, X10, X14 but in the end it's all the same shit, and it is in fact shit.
Where the hell is your proof? Yea your cool posting useless common sense facts about bho and wild accusations about these "cheap 3 dollar cans of butane. Your full of it, get out of here lmfao. There's plenty of people who blast with house brands like smokers friendly butane for example that are SAFE 3 bucks a can and perfectly fine. If you blast with 10 dollar cans good for you? Waste your money while people are doing the same shit and getting apparently the same yields according to you.
 

JungleTime

Well-Known Member
The biggest difference we've seen brand to brand, is the level of contaminants longer than C-4. We pre-distill all of our butane regardless of source, and normally start with 99.5% Instrument grade, which we distill to 99.995% purity.

Here is some information regarding order of magnitude and actual composition of the mystery oil.

https://skunkpharmresearch.com/bho-mystery-oil/
Wow thanks for the link, that's a lot of time and testing.
 

JungleTime

Well-Known Member
Have fun with your Power 5, lmao
Thanks I will have fun with your vector cans which is the same shit guy.

This link thats been posted proved you wrong lmfao
https://skunkpharmresearch.com/bho-mystery-oil/
No it won't double your yield. If they are using vector they probably know just as much as you. Crappy butane brands might say X5, X10, X14 but in the end it's all the same shit, and it is in fact shit. It's not pure butane and it also contains contaminants, then they package it in those cheap crappy cans which arnt always made of safe materials.
The same company that makes power 5 makes vector lmfao there even processed at the same location. So how is there crappy butane when higher grade butane is in your definition "crappy butane" refined? LOL At the end of the day its N-butane :clap:

The principle is that its N-Butane and its readily avalible for cheap just as i mentioned for 3 dollars a can. I really questioned if your know anything about blasting once you state
Anything that isn't Nbutane you are just poisoning yourself with.
All these brands are 10$+ per can, and if you can't afford this then you can't afford to make safe bho. Don't bargain shop for butane, what brand are you paying 3$ for!?
ITS ALL N-BUTANE Lol! Oh but just because its not 10 dollars a can it must not be N butane. Alrighty then. Not gonna listen to shit that you say lmfao. Go look at the link thats been posted and look at the residuals in your 10 dollar cans and in the 3 dollar cans. Its the same fucking shit guy. :roll:
 

MedicalMike420

Well-Known Member
if you researched what I told you to then that skunk pharm page would have come up. I know because I almost shared that with you to save u the Google work.
You are using ISO butane and no matter how many times you tell me it's n butane isn't gunna change what product the company sells. I understand that you have no idea what ISO and N means but I told you to look it up. So do that if you want to be rude. I would love to see a website that power and vector are labeled as Nbutane on. Can you send me a link
 

MedicalMike420

Well-Known Member
I'm not going to teach someone who doesn't want to learn either. You ask for help then someone comes around with advice and you get angry because you are poor?
Yes when it comes down to it the process will work just fine. But how are you going to sit here and tell me ISO butane doesn't exist. Or that they are the same thing? Go on google like I said, this was the first thing I found when I type isobutane vs nbutane.
http://rbnenergy.com/sites/default/files/styles/large/public/field/image/picture1_1.jpg?itok=w7rKkKld

Your question was is it would double your yeild you sound stupid just for asking that.
I would assume this is being purged on your stovetop? Lmao
 
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JungleTime

Well-Known Member
I'm not going to teach someone who doesn't want to learn either. You ask for help then someone comes around with advice and you get angry because you are poor?
Yes when it comes down to it the process will work just fine. But how are you going to sit here and tell me ISO butane doesn't exist. Or that they are the same thing? Go on google like I said, this was the first thing I found when I type isobutane vs nbutane.
http://rbnenergy.com/sites/default/files/styles/large/public/field/image/picture1_1.jpg?itok=w7rKkKld

Your question was is it would double your yeild you sound stupid just for asking that.
I would assume this is being purged on your stovetop? Lmao
Lmfao not once did I say iso butane did not exist point it out. Iso butane and n-butane are the same starting chemicals right? Then iso is just modified N-butane correct? No matter what butane you buy $3 dollar cans or $14 cans the variation is that ITS majority is N-Butane.
http://butanesource.com/msds
Its the same shit dude and if you cant get it through your head that all butane is a combination of at least N-butane and iso-Butane having N-butane be the majority then your a fool. Your trying to break it down that there are two different types of butane, yea your "right" but if your stupid as fuck if you think that you can your 10 dollar cans are pure iso butane. Am I not right? quote me where im wrong. And I purge my shit for 3 days in a vac lmfao at 105 for three days purges all the butane out and you should know this right? I'm guessing you have a 5k oven camber?
 

Flagg420

Well-Known Member
LOL, some kids just will argue anout how they were always right all along....

Leave this one alone guys, he will blow himself up soon enough anyhow, can't teach those who don't want to learn...

Hes obviously not asking questions and seeking advice, simply wants to tell other people how awesome he is, and that he knows more than them.... or at least will argue such....

"What the difference between this and this?"
'that ones not fucking healthy...'
"You are wrong! I use it, and the head shops sell it, so its better than what you say, you don't know anything!"

I am not high enough for this kind of buffoonery....
 

Fadedawg

Well-Known Member
Sometimes discussions get focused on the wrong questions, and for the purpose of this discussion may I suggest we discuss and answer the following questions:

1.0 Is there a significant difference in the salubrious/wholesomeness between n-propane, n-butane, and Isobutane?

1.1 Not according to governmental industrial hygienists.

2.0 Is there any advantage afforded by one, but not the others?

2.1 They all have different properties, starting with their effectiveness on the C-30 triterpene sized molecules like plant waxes and anthrocyanin plant color pigments, and ending with how easy they are to purge, while holding on to the monoterpenes.

As you lower the temperature, n-Butane gets too thick to pump, so we use up to 50% n-Propane to thin it down, and minimize pickup of molecules longer than C-21.

3.0 Is there a difference in the levels of unwanted longer chain hydrocarbon residuals in cheap versus certified reagent grades.

3.1 They are present in all grades at some level, but the 99.5% Praxair Instrument grade we get from Apis Labs tests at 99.9% purity as received, and it tests 99.995% relative to molecules longer than C-4, after we distill and post filter it.

Our results from lighter brand LPG mixed gases pretty much parallel the work done by Skyhighler above, which is to say that they don't typically have enough to exceed established Permissible Exposure Levels, but what is there is concentrated in your oil, and once you see, smell and taste it, you won't want it in your concentrate.

4.0 How consistent is their quality level?

4.1 Very consistent with the reagent grades that come with certifications and test results, but the bad news is that quality can vary significantly in lighter butane from Asia, per the above charts, as well as in refrigerant grades like R-290/600/600A, as evidenced by the episode with Ecogreens R-290 and 70/30 blend last year.

I highly recommend pre-distilling 100% of LPG used for extraction, regardless of source.
 

KLITE

Well-Known Member
I highly recommend pre-distilling 100% of LPG used for extraction, regardless of source.
Defo agree with that! First time i got N butane i was like ye no way theres any mistery oil in this, i think there was more in it than colibri :O (not weighed them i could be wrong)

n-Butane gets too thick to pump
How low do you mean? I do find it goes slower through the system, but i thought that could be a good thing?
 

NW_Grower

Active Member
If cheap stuff was just as good as the expensive medical grade or N-butane, it would cost the same. The OP's defiant arrogance to the answers to the question he asked is confusing.

JungleTime, if you already know so much, why did you ask?

Were you just looking for someone else to reaffirm your incorrect opinion?

This is the reason i don't smoke bho anymore.

The main difference between grades of butane, is not the butane itself, it is the chemicals and other solvents used in packaging and storing the butane. Really nasty chemicals like xylene are used to clean out the containers prior to filling.

Someone had the right idea when the mentioned pre distilling their butane which is a necessary step to make clean bho. A closed loop system is also a must. A real vacuum oven is also necessary.

If you're so confident in the bho you make get it tested to prove your point.

Bho requires thousands of dollars in equipment to make properly, if you can't afford it, don't make bho. How long you've been successfully blasting cans through a tube into a Pyrex baking dish is beside the point. You're making poison. I really Hope you're not sellin it.
 

chuck estevez

Well-Known Member
Put cheap shit in your torch and see how long it takes to heat up your piece, put good shit in and do the same, pretty easy to see the difference.
same thing with gas, it's all gas, but race gas is just way better. everyone knows this.
 

Fadedawg

Well-Known Member
Defo agree with that! First time i got N butane i was like ye no way theres any mistery oil in this, i think there was more in it than colibri :O (not weighed them i could be wrong)



How low do you mean? I do find it goes slower through the system, but i thought that could be a good thing?
-30/-40C

Gets slushy faster if moisture present.
 

Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
Thanks I will have fun with your vector cans which is the same shit guy.

This link thats been posted proved you wrong lmfao
https://skunkpharmresearch.com/bho-mystery-oil/

The same company that makes power 5 makes vector lmfao there even processed at the same location. So how is there crappy butane when higher grade butane is in your definition "crappy butane" refined? LOL At the end of the day its N-butane :clap:

The principle is that its N-Butane and its readily avalible for cheap just as i mentioned for 3 dollars a can. I really questioned if your know anything about blasting once you state

ITS ALL N-BUTANE Lol! Oh but just because its not 10 dollars a can it must not be N butane. Alrighty then. Not gonna listen to shit that you say lmfao. Go look at the link thats been posted and look at the residuals in your 10 dollar cans and in the 3 dollar cans. Its the same fucking shit guy. :roll:
im no butane expert here, but when you say that all the butanes are processed in the same location like its a point for your argument it made me chuckle. Your talking about a butane processing factory i suppose, like a beer processing factory in a sence. And just because beer rolls out the door doesnt mean its all created equally right ;)
 

DivineEyes

New Member
Anyone have experiences blasting with cheap and expensive butane? I just use the cheap 3 dollar a can but someone recently told me if you use butane like the vector 14x refined it nearly gets double the yield. Its kinda hard to believe so I thought I would ask you guys.

Is there any truth to more expensive butane increasing yield? And if so is it nearly double the yield? Or these mother fuckers blowing smoke up my ass
I've got certifications in pyrotechnics and done a lot of micro soldering as well as my uses of my mini torches during my private recreational time. I've had more than a few in my 25+ years of using them including had a few that exploded for various reasons. I've also had to take the colibri certified maintenance courses to not void the warranties for their lighters when I worked at a shop that custom engraved them. I know lighters inside out upside down and backwards in my sleep. So the first idiot that responds with an N grade comment is getting smacked in the head. N grade is a broad range. Unless you can describe the criteria for each grade shut up about what you don't understand. I'm gonna dumb it down a bit for the rest of the world now.

Easiest explanation to understand is this ...

The more refined it is the less oils separate while it's stored in a compressed state in the canister. The less oils the faster the expansion which gives a super cooled reaction because oils conduct heat and vapor cools faster. That's why we use oil to make food crisper and moving air to cool things down. Makes sense so far right???

So how does that apply to the mini torch? Well, knowing what it's made of makes all the difference. The canister is generally a thick plastic resin, Spouts and nozzles are metal, the surround around the jets is ceramic, and there's a rubber hose that connects them. All those things have different levels of porous to them and will hold different amounts of oil that soaks in as it sprays. The longer the torch is lit and hotter it gets the more oils soak in and hold heat and get sticky to hold grime both of which will degrade the material resulting in burn marks on the ceramic and widening of the flame to the edges of the casing (if it gets that wide replace the torch cuz it's not long till it's gonna blow up or sputter and become a flame thrower), holes in the hose or loosening at the ends, thinning and cracking of the plastic resin and if it's a plastic case unit .. the screws conduct heat and the screw holes start to stretch and you'll see loosening of the head unit. All these can send the gas spraying out of places it shouldn't which is dangerous and painful, trust me i have firsthand experience and the burn scars to prove it.

The higher refined leaves less oil residue to hold heat in addition to super cooling the torch. This can be helpful if it overheats because you can burp the current air bubbles out the fill valve and shoot a little more in and voila insta cooled torch which equals less damage time to the melty parts. Always burp the air out tho cuz heat makes gas expand ergo the pressure to spray flame and over filling the tank in that condition can cause it to crack and explode so just a quick press or 2 on the fill k.

(Also, make sure you don't bump the button while filling if it's a side button. The gas in the lighter will ignite and explode igniting the canister in your hand attached to it. Hopeful not sending shrapnel toward your face. The gas will hover around your arm and hand for a few seconds without pain and look pretty cool but there will be some pain later after it gets back to room temp and the shock wears off. Not massive burns though, just fry the hair off your arm and mega peeling sunburn variety. (Also firsthand experience... Shot the bottom across my face too burning the bridge of my nose and frying off my eyelashes and eyebrows for a few weeks. As a female roadie for concert tours, not the most attractive look.)

Next point, cooler cleaner fuel does burn longer... But only by about 30% in the average torch lighter that's kept clean and well maintained. Most aren't. So you won't see a huge difference in the consumption of fuel, but you will see one helluva difference in how long your torch lives and how pinpoint the flame stays. The hottest part of the flame is the white just above the very tip of the dark blue. Best way to utilize that is extending how long what it's used on lasts. Rather than keeping the flame stationary on it.... Use the white at the tip, count to 3 then take it off until it needs a bit more then just tap that same part 3 times fast and take it away again to keep it going. Your product will last twice as long because it's not sitting on something that's continuing to overcook it when it's not being used. Ya heat as small an area as possible then maintain it as needed instead of overheating a large area that takes 4xs as long to cool back down.

Physics class actually taught ya how to have fun. Ya just weren't paying any attention. Look at how much fun time and money ya wasted because of it. Ain't karma a b**ch???
 
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