Can't get my Oil into Wax

vertigo0007

New Member
Ignorance is bliss? Your views are obsolete. And for the record, if you know what youre doing, any and all oil will wax right up. That is, if you don't foolishly overheat it *cough cough*. No problems getting even second run oil to wax up.

Hahah classic, IIIIII'MMMMMMM the sketchy one. Exaaaaaaactly.
 

Dan Kone

Well-Known Member
Ignorance is bliss? Your views are obsolete.
If you say so. Personally I like not exploding, but that's just me...

Also, if that guy's stuff is so awesome, why is it green? Green = bad. I'm sure we can agree on that much.


  • Hahah classic, IIIIII'MMMMMMM the sketchy one. Exaaaaaaactly.​


Heating liquid butane indoors and on an electrical device is indeed sketchy. Double sketchy actually. But that wasn't sketchy enough apparently. Then he had to take a ball jar and turn it into a vac chamber.

That guy is one jumping electron away from exploding at all times. F- that. Some things just aren't worth it.
 

vertigo0007

New Member
I clearly said it was a version of the method, NOT THE ONLY METHOD. Heres an epiphany for you. Pizza stone, no electicity involved (since you're scared of a 90° heating element being next to the same amount of butane that's in PAM). Who said anything about it being awesome? Although color isn't the last work in quality, I assure you. I don't know the guy so how could I have tried it to know how good it was. I merely pointed out that the method works, works well and your incessant whipping is unneccessary and a WASTE OF TIME.

He also clearly states not to use a jar or to do anything with liquid butane indoors. So really you're just upset you don't know it all, contrary to what you would like people to believe. good luck with your misinformation
 

biglungs

Active Member
some stuff will honeycomb in a vac some wont but i am with Dan Kone on this one that shit in the vid is too green IMO.
anyone who decides to bring liquid tane indoors is an idiot and i pray they dont share a home or walls with anyone else
 

vertigo0007

New Member
Hahahaha! The quality of the trim has no bearing on the validity of the method. Nice attempt at misdirection guys. You're still wrong....
 

Dan Kone

Well-Known Member
I clearly said it was a version of the method, NOT THE ONLY METHOD. Heres an epiphany for you. Pizza stone, no electicity involved (since you're scared of a 90° heating element being next to the same amount of butane that's in PAM). Who said anything about it being awesome? Although color isn't the last work in quality, I assure you. I don't know the guy so how could I have tried it to know how good it was. I merely pointed out that the method works, works well and your incessant whipping is unneccessary and a WASTE OF TIME.
So first you give me a hard time for using heat, then you advise people to use heat. Now you're getting on my case for "incessant whipping" even though I've already said I don't even whip my stuff at all?

Ok then. Well it seems like you just want to argue, so GL with that.

He also clearly states not to use a jar or to do anything with liquid butane indoors.
But he both heats liquid indoors and uses a jar. So no, he's stating the exact opposite of what you're claiming.

Sense, you're making none.

So really you're just upset you don't know it all
lol. If you say so.
 
You all are missing the point. With out a vac...you need to spread it very thin on a double boiler at 130-140 to make clear oil, like super duper thin. Once all the butane has purged (WITH HEAT, you need to get the oil viscous enough for the butane to escape) Then you can "whip" it up or do w/e the fuck you want with it. But when you just try to purge strait into a wax or butter it is going to have trapped tane...




Golden peanut butter means you whipped air into while there was still butane left in the product. Repurge it like I said and watch all the bubbles appear.


ok im getting the same results. smh. guess im going to repurge mine as well
 

bowled

Active Member
Ok guys so I do small 4-7g batches at a time. I use a double boiler type rig with heating my pyrex with steam. I get my dish hot (130-150) then bring it outside to extract. After I shoot my tane through I run it back inside and set dish on a double boiler and very carefully poke NOT SCRAPE the bubbles and do my best to keep the oil thin and spread out. I let it sit for about 30 min all the while poking when the bubbles form together. Once I find no bubbles small or large, I take it off the low heat and scrape it with a razor.

The oil always turns hard as a rock 10 min after scrap and, I can only mess with it after I heat it up a bit so it doesn't shatter. I have heard a lot about oil, wax and 'shatter' and I just want to make sure that it is a good thing my oil is getting rock hard(also it is not very sticky at room temp, very sticky with heat). I assume hard oil = low amounts of butane but should it be a bit more malleable at room temp. Thanks :)

Here is a pic of last batch.IMG_7721.jpg
 

Bublonichronic

Well-Known Member
anyone know why some batches wont comb up? iv made a bunch of batches the same way but for some reason my current runs wont comb up... the material is like 2 mths old, anyone know if there is a expiration date on the material as far as getting it to comb? i know its not the quality, shits straight fire... i literally had it under vac for like 24 hours, and it still looks kinda like glass or shatter, another run i did b4 this 1 that wont comb, i thought i got to hot cause it is like a caramel wax or "budder", but even with lower heat it still just sitng in chamber doin nothing...gettin kinda frustrated
 

vacpurge

New Member
I had this problem too... the problem is patience.

I once made a re run batch that I didnt care about, or need.. I had a lot of good oil. so I threw it in the chamber... and kinda forgot about it for a week or 10 days or so (with no heat, just a cold, vacuumed chamber with a closed valve, dont think it ever lost any vacuum over that period), which ive never done before. and sure as shit it half waxed up. I imagine if I left it in there for a few more days, it would have totally waxed.

ive yet to try that theory again.. too lazy. I will today though for purposes of this thread. I will put 2 grams of oil into the chamber for TWO weeks!!!! and well see what I get.
 

Bublonichronic

Well-Known Member
alright, ill leave it in the chamber a little longer, anybody got any ideas the max temp you can bring your oil to in purge b4 the consistency is compromised and cant honeycomb? i know delicate terps vape off at like 150ish, but im wondering if i just overheated and it just wont honeycomb out of this budder state it seems to be stuck in, but that dosent explain why the other patty wont comb that was never overheated...im thinking its just moisture in the oil, but im not understanding why i cant get it out like my other batches that were only a couple grams smaller than these..
 

Bublonichronic

Well-Known Member
just smoke it and relax
i wish it was that easy, ahha, but unfortunately, people like some things more than others, and are willin to pay for the things they want =, so honeycomb it is, even tho im sure most people will agree there is no difference in the high....nice sig btw
 

H338

Member
I had the same problem. I made beautiful honeycomb with my cheesequake, blueberry, and deep purple material before the acrylic food saver cacuum container I was using started to spider crack and I had to throw it out. Waited a month Now I have a stainless steel chamber and the same material is making transparent amber trash "shatter" that I pump for hours. It only took me an hour and 45 minutes to fully purge a 1 gram test batch with the "ghetto" chamber. Now 6 hours for this!? I believe my material is now too old but I could be wrong. Has anyone had a problem with material getting old?
 

H338

Member
Btw it's garbage because it still has tane not because its "shatter. " but, a fine example of why I only trust comb
 

vacpurge

New Member
1. your chamber is a lot bigger. I think that effects it for some reason.

2. shatter is normally a better/cleaner product than wax/honeycomb ;)
 

Bublonichronic

Well-Known Member
I had the same problem. I made beautiful honeycomb with my cheesequake, blueberry, and deep purple material before the acrylic food saver cacuum container I was using started to spider crack and I had to throw it out. Waited a month Now I have a stainless steel chamber and the same material is making transparent amber trash "shatter" that I pump for hours. It only took me an hour and 45 minutes to fully purge a 1 gram test batch with the "ghetto" chamber. Now 6 hours for this!? I believe my material is now too old but I could be wrong. Has anyone had a problem with material getting old?
i think I noticed older material takes longer to comb too, when the material was fresh i would get comb in like 6 hrs, now that the material is a couple months old and cured, it's taken as Long as 3 days to comb, but when it does its FIRE, maybe better than fresh material?
 

H338

Member
1. your chamber is a lot bigger. I think that effects it for some reason.

2. shatter is normally a better/cleaner product than wax/honeycomb ;)
It's not that, unfortunately. I still pull -29 and I get there in under 15 seconds. Plenty of CFM vs. the chamber space. But, yeah. I've had good and bad shatter but, wont really mess with it again until I get comb down. It's the easiest and I can see with my eyes the solvent peacing out. But, yeah again I'm gonna learn to make and appreciate it more my friend :)
 

H338

Member
i think I noticed older material takes longer to comb too, when the material was fresh i would get comb in like 6 hrs, now that the material is a couple months old and cured, it's taken as Long as 3 days to comb, but when it does its FIRE, maybe better than fresh material?
For really 72 hours? Well, ill try tonight cause i gotta try to make the best of a goddamn pound of trim. Not alot to some but that was alot of the trim from my first crop :'( it stinnngggssss
 
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