Canoeing Leaves, But its WEIRD, need HELP ASAP

Okay... here it goes... I'm not sure if this is even a problem or its just a semi-normal thing that happens sometimes...

I got some leaves that are canoeing, but here is the WEIRD part, its the timing of it all.
After the light has been on for 18 hours, the canoeing has mostly corrected itself, and the ladies look very happy too.
After 6 hours of dark, the canoeing is at its worst. Also, some of the leaves are reaching upwards and they look just generally stressed.

Correct me if I am incorrect... I would think that during the dark period my ladies would relax, heal themselves, and come out looking great. But as I said, the canoeing and what-not looks worse after the dark period... After the light period, they look great. Leaves look pretty relaxed- minimal canoeing. Does that seem reversed to anyone else?

Here is my system... hydro set-up in an enclosed cabinet, HPS 250watt, temps are 75-77 night and 80-83 day, my pH and ppm's are great and my nutes are at 50% strength.
I'm in my 2nd week of veg, so if I gotta change something, I wanna do it soon!

Thanks for all the help, I need it!

I will try to post some "after dark" and "after light" pics later, check back!

Are you making sure they don't dry out too much during the night cycle?!

unity said:

Are you making sure they don't dry out too much during the night cycle?!

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Um... I don't think thats it because, as I said before, they look better AFTER the night cycle. If they were drying out in night cycle, wouldn't they then look worse?

i had the same problem too im using a 400w hps right now but it looks like shes doing better now... idk mine is a sativa and i dont know the strain but shes doing fine now -_- i hope someone can find u a solution

heat stress because the temp difference between your day and night is not large enough gap try to lower the daytime temps. where is the hot air from you light going?

polyarcturus said:

heat stress because the temp difference between your day and night is not large enough gap try to lower the daytime temps. where is the hot air from you light going?

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I don't get what your saying... if I lower my daytime temps, then they would be even closer to nighttime temps, gap would be smaller or non-existent...
Heat from my light is controlled by the Odor-Sok venting the air out of my enclosed cabinet, and I have a powerful internal circulation fan.

the key here is not the gap, but to lower the overall temp of the plant. ventilation sounds fine. just think in averages what would be the average temp over 24 hours if your night period isnt bringing the temp average down below 78-77 degrees you need to lower the day time temps. also close proximity with the light can be a problem because of the,IR it raises the surface temps of the plant even higher.

it might be easier for you to lower the night temp by leaving the ventilation on

Awesome... thanks for the advice. I'm gonna move the HPS up a little. I will try to lower the temp that way cause I already leave my ventilation and internal circulation fan ON all the time.
Over the last 48 hrs I began to do a light foliage spray with plain pH'd water immediately after the light goes out... I think that has helped to improve the situation.

GL man let me know if i can help anytime

I got another thread on root rot...? I'm just saying. You had good info on this, maybe you know root rot, or brown algae, too?
Search "PersonalJesus" and it'll come up... My last post was saying, I'm gonna add some H2O2 to my res. I also have AquaSheild... I'm just not sure how these work together or if they don't or what? The H2O2 was a light add-in... I did 4 tsp. for my 4 1/2 gal. reservoir... Whaddya think?

okay did some search it(aquashield) has a bacterium in it that eats dead plant tissue, you need to first use aquashield, then use h2o2 as a treatment later(or vice versa if you want to keep bacteria which would be good thing). one or the other. h2o2 will kill the ingredients in aquashied.