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VTMi'kmaq

VTMi'kmaq

Well-Known Member
ok more....part 4 ,5,6 . RECIPE #4
Three Little Birds Method
40 gallons used soil
4 cups alfalfa meal
4 cups bone meal
4 cups kelp meal
4 cups powdered dolomite lime
30 pound bag of earthworm castings . . .
That’s the basic recipe . . .
However we also like to use
4 cups of Greensand
4 cups of Rock Phosphate
4 cups of diatomaceous earth

RECIPE #5
Fish and Seaweed (This is sooo easy)

For veg growth…
1 capful 5-1-1 Fish Emulsion
1 capful Neptune's Harvest 0-0-1 Seaweed or Maxicrop liquid
1 gallon H2O

For early flowering…
1 tbs. Neptune’s Harvest 2-3-1 Fish/Seaweed
1 gallon H2O

For mid to late flowering…
1 tbs. Neptune’s Harvest 2-4-1 Fish
1 gallon H2O

And now for some more good tips...

Organic pH issues

I hear a lot of people asking or talking about the pH of their organic soil mix or organic nute solution and how they might correct or adjust it. pH in organics is not an issue like it is in synthetic growing.
The best place to settle the pH issues in organics is within the grow medium. A medium rich in humates (humus) is the place to start. Humates work to "buffer" the pH of organic mediums and the nutes you pour (or mix) into it.

Humates come from compost, worm castings and bottled humus. If you use a peat based medum, use dolomite lime to raise the pH of the acidic peat. Dolomite should be used in any soil or soiless medium to provide magnesium and calcium. But since we are talking about pH here, I'll mention dolomite lime's pH correction benefits.

A medium of coir has a pH near neutral (or 7.0). But humates are still neded to allow uptake of organic nutrients that are outside a near neutral pH range.
With an active medium rich in humates you can pour in nutes like Pure Blend Pro, Earth Juice and guano teas way outside the optimum pH range without worry. The humus will allow the nutes to be taken up through the roots, even at such an extreme pH reading.
So throw those pH meters away folks and enjoy the ease and safety of organic gardening.

Chlorine tap water

Just a word of caution for you organic heads out there...
If you are tapped onto a municipal water supply that uses chlorine to kill bacteria in the water, it'll do the same thing to the bacteria (microherd) in your organic food source.
Always bubble your municipal water in an open container (5 gallon bucket) for 24 hours before adding ANYTHING organic to it.

Flushing

There is absolutely no reason to "flush" organic nute solutions from your soil mix. In an organic grow, the plants don't take up the organic nutes (guano, bone, blood or kelp). The bacteria eat the organic nutes and excrete food that the plant can feed off of. So the organic nutes don't need to be flushed because they never enter the plant. And besides, meals like kelp, bone and blood along with worm castings and dolomite can't be flushed from your soil mix anyway. If you use guano and seaweed, try using plain water or worm casting tea for your last watering or two so the plant can use up what's left in the soil. But drowning your soil with water isn't necessary.
&
Guano Tea and Kelp:

Seedlings less than 1 month old nutrient tea mix-
5 TBS. Black Strap Molasses
1-cup earthworm castings/5 gallons of water every 3rd watering

Vegetative mix-
1/3 cup Peruvian Seabird Guano (PSG)
1/3 cup High N Bat Guano (Mexican)
1/3 cup Earth Worm Castings (EWC)
5 TBS. Maxi-crop 1-0-4 powdered kelp extract
5 TBS. Liquid Karma (optional)
5 TBS. Black Strap Molasses
@ 1-cup mix/5 gallons of water every 3rd watering.

Flowering nutrient tea mix:
2/3 cup Peruvian Seabird Guano
2/3 cup Earth Worm Castings
2/3 cup High P Guano (Indonesian or Jamaican)
5 TBS. Maxi-crop 1-0-4 powdered kelp extract or Liquid
5 TBS. Black Strap Molasses

Dilute as needed. Generally, 2 to 3 cups per 5 gallons of water @ every watering.

Each mix is unique. Use your better judgment on the amounts and the ingredients. Remember, your tea can be as versatile as you wish it to be. Be creative. Your plants will love you for it.
Iv been getting quite a few pms from different people asking me a few things here and there.
For any organic beginner or experienced grower... This is where its at, nice and simple and very effective.


For anyone wanting to try some simple tried and true supersoil.... This is for you, it has grown some of my finest plants... If you do this in conjunction with a few guano kelp teas here and there you will never turn back.
Its called vicks supersoil. I believe Genuity has given this recipe a go with good results.
I added prices.
1 Bale sunshine mix #2 or promix (3.8 cu ft)~~~~~~~~~~~$36
8 cups Bone Meal - phosphorus source~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~$8
4 cups Blood Meal - nitrogen source ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~$18 for 8lb bag, you only use half... leftovers!
1 1/3 cups Epsom salts - magnesium source~~~~~~~~~~~~$3
3-4 cups dolomite lime -calcium source & pH buffering~~~~~$10
4 cups kelp meal.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~$8
9kg (25 lbs) bag pure worm castings~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~$20 for 30lb add all 30lbs

- Mix thoroughly, moisten, and let sit 1-2 weeks before use.

'Banana Puff' - [Banana OG x OG Jo]
'Cherry Puff' - [Cherry Pie x OG Jo]
'Mendodawg' - [Chemdawg OG x Mendo Montage]
'Grapeful Grape' - [Grape Stomper x Underdawg/Chemdawg Sour Diesel
"Alexander Kush"....Cabin Fever Seed Breeders......The Freak:

I was harvesting these seeds the day I got news of our son's death, I know that is a harsh beginning to a description, but that is how this hybrid got it's name, It just felt right and sounded memorable.
This is an excellent pairing, It starts with my best looking male Blue Geez, he was number #7. I used him to dust a couple beautiful, strong, and one of my personal favorites, The Larry cut of OG, I had picked up a few of these at Harborside from Dark Heart Nurseries, DHN does great selection for their clone mothers.
These plants are frost monsters, in fact, that's what I was going to name it first. They show strong trichome production very early into flower, just after 3 weeks or so, the flowers & smaller leaves begin to become encrusted, and it just keeps getting better as flowering progresses, They are hearty and easy to grow, very vigorous in veg, and a very decent yield of AAA+ medicine after about 63 days, let go longer for a more narcotic effect. The odor is very earthy, you can definitely smell the kush/fuel smell and a bit of cheesy sweetness. It's very tasty & smooth when grown organically and after a good cure.
Medical benefits, Chronic joint/muscle/bone Pain, Anxiety, Insomnia or general Relaxation, good Munchie/Appetite inducer.



I just read this over on the mag. I give all credit to JNugg back in 2007 and the Rev for this info. Just a good quick read.


Welcome brothers & sisters.In this installation of Living Organics,we're going to learn about the glory of organic compost teas.But I'm not talking about the Celestial
Seasonings sitting on your grocer's shelf.If you're growing in soil and want to learn how to come closer to maximizing the potential of your genetics,read on.You'll learn how to create,administer,and benefit from a largely underutilized technique that has produced some stellar results for me over the years.


You may recall from some of my past articles the nutritional benefits of soil microlife for cannabis plants in fully organic environments.To get a better idea of the advantages of teas,note that a teaspoon of compost contains about one billion beneficial microscopic organisms.However,a teaspoon of organic tea is populated by about four billion microbeasties.Another advantage is that pot plants benefit immediately from teas.Think of teas as organic steroids for your plants.


Not Just For Roots

Teas are not only beneficial for your plant roots,but also for leaves.I like to spray a bit on the leaves in a topical application.The benefit comes from the "coating" of microbes that you create on the leaf when you spray it.This basically muscles out any bad microbes.Be sure to cover atleast 70% of the leaf surface with the tea-spray,ensuring that you get both the tops and bottoms.


Fungus vs. Bacteria

Most teas are bacteria-dominant.However,in flowering,fungus is a tremendous benefit to your plants.I wouldn't stress this if I hadn't seen for myself what a difference the fungi make.Organic plants are all about fungi when flowering.If the fungi aren't present,there's just no way to push your plants to the limits of yield and quality.In fact,fungi-dominant teas are so good that they're the trick to achieving yields that border on those produced in finely tuned hydroponic environments.

Fungus takes longer to grow than bacteria.In the population race,bacteria always outgrows fungi by a large margin.Thus,when making a fungi-dominant tea,you have to give the fungi a head start.

Fungus plays a special role during flowering,delivering things such as phosphorous to the plants roots.They also breakdown secondary mineral nutrients and ammonium nitrogen available to the roots.Bacteria then convert the ammonium nitrogen to nitric nitrogen.Both varieties of nitrogen,ammonium and nitric,can be used by a cannabis plant and help it grow vigorously.

Nitric Nitrogen:Makes the plants grow shorter & wider,with closer node spacing.

Ammonium Nitrogen:Causes some stretch in the plant.




Nutrient Flexible

Teas can provide your plants with more than good bacteria.If your plant are lacking food or you encounter a problem that you need to correct,teas are an excellent vehicle for infusing your soil with nutrients.

Personally,I utilize teas mostly to provide my plants with fungi.How many nutrients you should add to you tea depends on what you already have in your particular soil (and needs of your plants).I pack my soil with tons of long-term nitrogen,phosphorous,and potassium,so I don't have to worry about the tea playing the role of nutrient provider.



Aerobic vs. Anaerobic Bacteria

The only real gotcha with organic teas is aeration.You must continually aerate your organic teas.Why?There are two types of bacteria that can develop in you tea : Aerobic and Anaerobic.Anaerobic doesn't need oxygen and is nasty stuff.If you ever smell your tea and it stinks of sewer,don't use it!It means that there's anaerobic activity.A good tea that's rich in aerobic activity will smell like very rich soil (the kind that's teaming with earthworms).Anaerobic teas are bad for more reasons than the fact that they literally smell like shit.They can also manifest E. Coli and introduce things like alcohols,which can kill your plants fast.Good aeration isn't just to supply oxygen to your plant roots.It's also a catalyst that teases the microbes and protozoa out of the compost-or earthworm castings,in the case of vermicompost-without killing them.After the continuous bubbling pushes them out,they consume the nutrients and simple sugars in your tea and multiply in a big way (creating the microlife boom that will,in turn,produce a bust,wherein large numbers of microbes will die their carcasses will nourish your plants' roots).


Thou Shalt Not

There are certain varieties of compost and brewing conditions that should be avoided when brewing a batch of organic tea.

Chlorine:I've said it before and I'll say it again:Never use chlorinated water on organic soil!This obviously includes teas.But if your only source of water is chlorinated,don't freak out.Simply drop an airstone in an uncovered container of the water for 24 hours.Your chlorine problems will be gone.

Compost Leachates:This is just compost squeezed and pressed.It's not very nutrient rich.But it'slack of nutrients isn't the problem (remember,using teas as a vehicle for transporting nutrients to your plants is a supplemental benefit).The problem is anaerobic activity,which can spell death for your plants.

Compost Extracts:While these provide more nutrient value than compost leachates,they still contain anaerobic activity (the big "I'm a dumbass" move in the world of organic teas).

Violent Aeration:Aeration is your friend and the key to a potent tea that's teaming with good bacteria.But too much aeration on the scale that provides an excessive amount of agitation and turbulence to the tea-is a bad thing becuase it will actually beat the microbeasties to death!Be gentle with the teas;remember that they're teaming with microbes!

Ultraviolet/HID/Sunlight:Avoid any high intensity lights or sunlight.Instead,use "normal" house lighting,such as florescent or tungsten.However,avoid any light source near your tea brewer.Regular room lighting is fine,but-as a rule of thumb-dimmer is better.




Mother Mary's Tea Recipes

*The measurments below are for a one gallon tea bubbler.When making teas in smaller containers,simply adjust the recipe or dilute the final tea with water.

*In these recipes,brew the tea with an airstone in a one gallon container for 24 to 48 hours.When you're done brewing,strain it through a nylon stocking (for topical/sprayer applications) or a standard strainer (for normal watering applications) and cut it 50/50 using dechlorinated water.

*Fungi-dominant tea compost should be mixed together and kept very wet for three to seven days prior to brewing.Store it high in a room,near the ceiling and in the dark.The microlife and fungi populations will really bloom if you place a heating pad-set to low-below the container (shoot for 68-75 degrees fahrenheit;20-24 degrees celsius).After three days,it will be visibly booming with fungus (what I call "Santa's Beard").Put this in your tea brewer and bubble it (in place of regular compost).

*Prepare for the container to foam up and bubble over.You should place a tray under your tea bubbler and avoid any electrical or other items that may be damaged or unsafe around the bubbling water.



Vegetattive Stage Recipe

* One Gallon Water *: R/O water,rain water,distilled etc. etc.

* One Teaspoon Black Strap Molasses (unsulfured)1-0-5)*:
Be sure to use only the unsulfured variety.This is because sulfur kills microlife,especially fungus (unless it's elemental sulfur in small ratios).

* One Teaspoon liquid Alaskan Fish Fertilizer (5-1-1)*:
Fungus and bacteria both love fish ferts and go nuts reproducing when it's included.

* One Cup Earthworm Castings (vermicompost) or good outdoor compost*:
Vermicompost provides humates,enzymes,protozoa,nemat odes,bacteria,fungus,trace elements,secondary and primary nutrients.

* One Teaspoon Fox Farms Peace Of Mind All Purpose (5-5-5) *:
Food for the microlife that balances the pH of the tea (to about 6.5-7.2).






Flowering Stage Recipes

* One Teaspoon Black Strap Molasses (unsulfured) (1-0-5) *:
An excellent source of potassium during flowering;bacteria prefer these simple sugars,whereas the fungus prefer more complex sugars derived from various organic matter.

* One Teaspoon Fox Farms Peace Of Mind All Purpose (5-5-5) *:
Food for the microlife that balances the pH of the tea (to about 6.5-7.2).

* One Teaspoon High Phosphorous Bat Guano (0-4-0) *:
Fungi love this nutrient and will deliver it to the plant roots.

* One cup Earthworm Castings (vermicompost) or regular compost *:
Good balance of nutrient (trace and secondary).Also a source for microbes and beneficial elements.

* One teaspoon Maxicrop liquid or 1/2 teaspoon water soluble Maxicrop or kelp/seaweed extract (dry) *:
A fungal favorite,this is a key tea ingredient that produces a good ratio of happy fungus.It's also booming with trace elements,some nitrogen,and some potassium.

* 1/4 teaspoon Micronized (soft) Rock Phosphate *:
Fungus attach to the rock phosphate and grow on it.Also a prime source for phosphorous,magnesium & sulfur.




Fungus Dominant (halfway through flowering) Recipes

* 1/2 cup Earthworm Castings *:
See above.

* 1/2 cup Mushroom Compost *:
This is fungus waiting to happen.A rich source of fungal spores and dense organic matter that fungi like to eat.

* Two tablespoons Powdered,100% Natural rolled oats *:
Fungi love this nutrient and will deliver it to the plant roots.

* Two teaspoons Kelp Meal *:
I use kelp meal for several reasons.It's organic matter that fungi like to attach themselves to.Fungi love kelp extracts as a primary food source and the rich traceelements and potassium it introduces.

* 1/4 teaspoon Micronized (soft) Rock Phosphate *:
Fungus attach to the rock phosphate and grow on it.Also a prime source of phosphorous,magnesium and sulfur.


The earthworm castings,mushroom compost,oatmeal,and kelp meal are first mixed together and made very wet.After fungus has grown on this blend,place it in your tea bubbler for 24 hours with
 
VTMi'kmaq

VTMi'kmaq

Well-Known Member
thecosmicgoat said:
Thanks VTM once I have the ingredients Im right on this on. I like the pre mixed Idea. Is the VEG and FL recipe the same but different volumes? 1 cup veg, 4 cups for flowering? Correct me if Im wrong. Jealous on the fresh peppers.
Click to expand...
I also have honey oil recipes just let me know guys! I collect info like a hoarder!
 
VTMi'kmaq

VTMi'kmaq

Well-Known Member
Ok one more donation to the cause ....teas
...(text from the book, "Teaming with Microbes" written by Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne Lewis)...any questions or comments about the book are welcome, I'd love to discuss it.
...+ REP if you like.



....the 19 rules!
1) Some plants prefer soils dominated by fungi; others prefer soils dominated by bacteria.
2) Most vegetables, annuals, and grasses prefer their nitrogen in nitrate form and do best in bacterially dominated soils.
3) Most trees, shrubs, and perennials prefer their nitrogen in ammonium form and do best in fungal dominated soils.
4) Compost can be used to inoculate beneficial microbes and life into soils around your yard and introduce, maintain, or alter the soil food web in a particular area.
5) Adding compost/ compost teas and its soil food web to the surface of soil will inoculate the soil with the same soil food web.
6) Aged, brown organic materials support fungi; fresh, green organic materials support bacteria.
7) Mulch laid on the surface tends to support fungi; mulch worked into the soil tends to support bacteria.
If you wet and grind mulch thoroughly, it speeds up bacterial colonization.
9) Coarse, dryer mulches support fungal activity.
10) Sugars help bacteria multiply and grow; kelp, humic and fulvic acids, and phosphate rock dusts help fungi grow.
11) By choosing the compost you begin with and what nutrients you add to it, you make teas that are heavily fungal, bacterially dominated, or balanced.
12) Compost teas are very sensitive to chlorine and preservatives in the brewing water and ingredients.
13) Applications of synthetic fertilizers kill off most or all of the soil food web microbes.
14) Stay away from additives that have high NPK numbers.
15) Follow any chemical spraying or soil drenching with an application of compost tea.
16) Most conifers and hardwood trees (birch, oak, beech, and hickory) form mycorrhizae with ectomycorrhizal fungi.
17) Most vegetables, annuals, grasses, shrubs, softwood trees, and perennials form mycorrhizae with endomycorrhizal fungi.
1 Rototilling and excessive soil disturbance destroy or severely damage the soil food web.
19) Always mix endomycorrhizal fungi with the seeds of annuals and vegetables at planting time or apply them to roots at transplanting time.



Compost Tea---- Compost tea puts the microbiology back into soils. It's a good thing because there's some practical problems associated with the other 2 options, compost and mulches. Besides the effort of turning a compost pile, if you have a decent-sized garden and lots of trees and shrubs, carting compost and mulches around and applying them can be hard work. You also have to have lots and lots of both if you are working on anything but a small yard. But what are the chief problems with compost and mulches? They take a while to reach the rhizosphere. And neither mulch nor compost sticks to leaves. Plants generate exudates from their leaves, attracting bacteria and fungi to the phyllosphere, the area immediately around the leaf surfaces. As in the rhizosphere, these microbes compete with pathogens for space and food and in some cases can protect the leaf surfaces from attack. You cannot immediately introduce this microbiology into the rhizosphere, or into the phyllosphere at all, with compost or mulch.
Actively aerated compost teas, on the other hand, are usually easy to apply---both soil and leaf surfaces---and are put right where they are needed. They are a fast, inexpensive, and definitely fascinating way to manage soil food web microbiology in your yard and gardens, handily overcoming the limitations of compost and mulch.


What AACT is not

Do not confuse actively aerated compost tea with compost leachates, compost extracts, or manure teas, all of which have been employed by farmers and gardeners for centuries.
Compost leachate is the liquid that oozes out of compost when it is pressed or when water runs through it and leaches out. Sure, these concoctions get a bit of color and may have some nutrient value, but leachates do little to impart microbial life to your soils: the bacteria and fungi in compost are attached to organic matter and soil particles with biological glues; they don't simply wash off.
Compost extract is what you get when you soak compost in water for a couple weeks or more. The end result is an anaerobic soup with perhaps a bit of aerobic activity on the surface. The loss of aerobic microbial diversity alone (not to mention the risk of it's containing anaerobic pathogens and alcohols) suggests that compost extracts are not worth the effort. We don't consider it safe or advisable to use them.
Manure tea, created by suspending a bag of manure in water for several weeks, is also anaerobic. Using manure is asking fro pathogenic problems and, especially under anaerobic conditions, virtually assures the presence of E.coli. We want the beneficial microbes to be working in our soils and to get these; you have to keep things aerobic.


Modern compost tea

Modern compost teas, on the other hand, are aerobic mixtures. If the tea is properly made it is a concentrate of beneficial, aerobic microbes. The bacterial population, for example, grows from 1 billion in a teaspoon of compost to 4 billion a teaspoon of an actively aerated compost tea. These teas are made by adding compost (and some extra nutrients to feed its microbes) to dechlorinated water and aerating the mix for one or two days. It is this mixing, or active aeration that brings old-fashioned anaerobic compost teas into the modern era; it is also what keeps these compost teas aerobic, and thus safe. The air supply must be sufficient to keep the tea aerobic throughout the entire process.
It takes energy to separate microbes from compost. You know how much energy you have to use daily (or should) to remove another form of bacterial slim: plaque on your teeth. Bacterial slime in soils is just as strong. Consider, as well, that fungal hyphae grow not only on the surface of compost crumb but inside its nooks and crannies; you have to use energy to pull these strands off and out in addition to getting the bacteria "unglued." Of course, too much energetic action can kill these microbes. A brewer's action must be strong enough to tease out the microbes but not so strong that the microbes are killed once they are out of the compost and into the tea.


The brewer

More and more compost tea brewers are on the marker. These range from small, 5- to 20-gallon systems that can easily make enough tea to take care of a few acres (about 1.2 hectares) to commercial brewers capable of producing up to a thousand gallons or more of tea per brew. The Internet is a good place to look for compost tea brewers and compare them. Manufacturers should be able to show tests demonstrating that their machines can extract viable populations of fungi as well as bacteria. Only biological test will tell you the numbers. Insist on seeing one, and if they don't have one, don't buy the machine.
You can also make an actively aerated compost tea brewer. It is very easy and our suggestions for those just starting with teas. All you need is one of those ubiquitous five-gallon plastic buckets; add to this an aquarium air pump (the biggest you can afford) and air stone, and about 4 feet (1.2 meters) of plastic tubing to use with it. The better pumps have two air outlets; if you cannot get a double-outlet pump, use at least two single outlet pumps. Sufficient aeration is critical. Once your system is operation, you will know if you have enough air. If the tea smells good, things are fine. If it starts to smell bad, the tea is going anaerobic.
We learned in physics that the smaller the bubbles, the higher the surface to air ratio and thus more air exchange with the water, but when bubbles get too small, under 1 millimeter, they can cut up microbes. Aquarium air stones work well as long as you remember to keep them (and the plastic tubing that attaches them to the pump) clean.


Sitting and cleaning the brewer

Temperature is important when brewing compost teas. If it is too cold, microbial activity slows. If temperatures get too high, then the microbes are literally cooked or go dormant. Room temperature is ideal. Keep track of the water temperature. This is one of the variables you can adjust later, if need be, and a record of this information will be helpful to the lab testing your samples. If you cannot site your brewer in a warm place with steady temperatures, then a small, inexpensive aquarium heater might be needed; these come with automatic thermostats. If it is too hot where you make tea, you may have to consider "packing" your bucket with ice or occasionally adding ice to it to keep temperatures down.
Compost tea should be made away from direct sunlight because its ultra-violet rays kill microbes. And, since the proteins (worm bodies, primarily) in compost have a tendency to foam in the tea; make sure you keep your brewer in a spot that can tolerate some spillage.

It should be obvious but must be noted that it is important to clean up right away when making actively aerated compost teas. Bacterial slime is strong stuff and can clog the air holes in bubblers and tubing. This bioslime will appear in the strangest places. It will stick to the sides of the bucket and accumulate in the crevice at the bottom of the bucket. You may have to take apart hoses and fittings to clean them thoroughly. So, even before you use your tea, clean your system. If you get to it while it is still wet, you can usually wipe it off or "blow" it off with the force of water from a hose; at a minimum, flush it with water. Use a 3% hydrogen peroxide product or a solution of 5% baking soda to clean slime that has dried.


Ingredients

Actively aerated compost teas contain lots of bacteria, fungi, nematodes, and protozoa because that's what's in compost. What makes these teas such a good soil food web tool (besides the high concentration of microbes) is that you can tailor-make AACTs to feed plants according to their specific needs by adding certain nutrients (see Rule #10)? Use Rule #10, which applies equally to compost, mulches, and soil, when you make compost tea, and it evolves into Rule #11: by choosing the compost you begin with and what nutrients you add to it, you can make teas that are heavily fungal, bacterially dominated, or balanced. For many, the brewing process grows into a hobby in and of itself, not unlike making beer.
All recipes, however, start with the basic ingredients, the first being chlorine-free water. Rule #12 is very important: compost teas are very sensitive to chlorine and preservatives in the brewing water and ingredients. It is vitally important that none of the ingredients you use contain any preservatives. This makes sense. After all, these chemicals are intended to kill or discourage microbial life. If you are served by a water system that uses chlorine, you will need to fill your brewing container with water and run air bubbles through it for an hour or two. The chlorine will evaporate, making the water safe for microbes. Carbon filters and reverse osmosis water systems also work well to remove both chlorine and chloramines, and are particularly useful if you need large quantities of water. As a general rule, a carbon filter containing one cubic foot of carbon will filter four gallons of water a minute.
Next, you need to use good compost (forgive this redundancy: to us, all compost is good, or it isn't compost). Again, make sure there are no chemical remnants in it, and by all means give it the sniff test. If it doesn't smell good, it isn't good compost. Obviously, the best way to know is to have it tested. Avoid "almost compost," compost that hasn't finished the process or has gone stinky are anaerobic. Don't bother with compost that was allowed to overheat, killing beneficial microbes and reducing its soil food web. If you have a low diversity of microbes in your compost, you will have low diversity in your tea.
Vermicastings are a good substitute for compost. These are full of benefiticial microbes and tend to be very bacterial (remember the role bacteria play inside the worm, digesting food), especially when they are fresh. For the initial five-gallon brew, you will need approximately four cups of either compost or vermicompost. You can use proportionately less compost the bigger the brew.
As for the extra ingredients, you can feed the microbial population while teas are brewing. Molasses (nonsulphured, so as not to kill the microbes) in powdered or liquid form, cane syrup, maple syrup, and fruit juices all feed bacteria in teas and increase their populations. Two tablespoons of any of these simple sugars in four or five gallons of water will help bacteria multiply and establish dominance. If you make a bigger brew, add more nutrients in the same proportion: the amount of all added nutrients will vary linearly as you increase the size of your brew. More complex sugars and fish emulsion are also good bacterial food, though both will also support some fungal growth.
To encourage fungal growth in compost teas, add kelp, humic and fulvic acids, and phosphate rock dusts, which not only provide the fungi with nutrient value but also give them surfaces to attach to while they grow. Ascophyllum nodosum is cold-weather kelp that can be purchased over the Internet, at garden centers, and even animal feed stores, where it is often sold as powdered algae. The pulps of fruits like oranges, blueberries, and apples will also help fungi grow in compost teas, as will aloe vera extract (without preservatives) and fish hydrolysate (which is essentially enzymatically digested ground-up fish bones and all). You can buy fish hydrolysate at some nurseries or make your own by adding papain (aka papaya peptidase) or kiwi (which also contains the appropriate enzymes) to a blend of fish to enzymatically digest the bones. Yuca and zeolites are also good fungal foods and do not support populations of bacteria.


Give fungi a head start

Many new to tea brewing become frustrated because it can be difficult to grow fungi in quantities sufficient to make a balanced tea, much less a fungally dominated one. This is because bacteria not only grow but multiply rapidly in tea for fungi to multiply in tea----they only grow bigger. The better way is to activate fungi in the compost prior to making tea, allowing populations to multiply before they are teased out of the compost and into the tea brew.
This activation is easily accomplished: several days before brewing the tea, mix the compost with simple proteins that serve as a good fungal food----such things as soybean meal, powdered malt, oatmeal, oat bran, or, best of all, powdered baby oatmeal. Thoroughly mix in one of these at the rate of three or four tablespoons per cup of compost. Make sure there is sufficient moister in the compost, which is to say a drop of moisture can be squeezed out of a fistful of it. Put the mixture in a container, and place the container in a warm, dark place. A seed-germinating mat, placed beneath the container, works great to provide the proper heat.
After about three days at 80F (27C), the fungi in your compost, if you had sufficient numbers of them in the first instance, will have grown, and their invisible threads merged into a network of visible mycelia. The compost look like Santa Clause's beard, covered with long, white, fluffy strands. In a few days, there will be so many fungal threads; the entire container of compost will be glued together.


Teatime

Once you turn your machine on, the bubbles agitate the compost and start peeling microbes off and out of it. Depending on the compost and the nutrients, you may experience a bit of foaming; this can signal that worm protein is being released from the compost----a good thing. You can add mycorrhizal fungi at the very end of the brew cycle. If you put spores into the tea while it is being made, either they will be destroyed or the fungal hyphae they produce will be destroyed---they are both very fragile; also, since mycorrhizal fungi live off of root exudates, they and the tea must reach plant roots quickly.
It takes between 24 and 36 hours to develop a good tea using our simple bucket bubbler; some commercial brewers, with their high-energy systems, make tea in 12 hours. In any case, during the course of brewing, tea turns coffee-brown, another favorable sign: the humates in the compost are being teased out into the tea. The temperature of the brew may also increase a few degrees, a result of increased metabolic activity. The best part is the smell. The smell of a compost tea, especially when molasses is used as a nutrient, is a healthy, sweet, earth smell.
Compost tea has a very short shelf life. So many microbes now populate the brew that they quickly deplete the nutrients and start eating each other; more important, they are using up all the oxygen. If you are offended by the odor of a tea, it has probably gone anaerobic and should be discarded; do not toss it on your plants, for obvious reasons. It is best to use compost tea within four hours of manufacture, though it will last, diminishing in populations, for about three to five days if kept refrigerated or if you continue to bubble air through it.
After you have had some experience making teas, you may want to modify your machine in order to make better and better teas, meaning those that have higher numbers of microbes.


Application

Right at the outset we will tell you that you can never apply too much compost tea (our research shows no ill effects from unlimited applications). It doesn't burn plant roots or leaves, and the microbiology in the tea will adjust to the nutrients available at the site. Repeatedly applying compost tea will only help increase diversity of the microbial populations in your soils.
Once the tea is ready, apply it as a soil drench using a cup, a plastic watering can (bacteria can impact the zinc in metal containers), or (if the tea has been strained) a hand pump sprayer. Since compost tea will "stick" to leaf surfaces, you can inoculate leaves with foliar spray of beneficial microbes. To be effective as a foliar spray, the tea must cover 70% of the leaf surface. Cover both sides of the leaves. When applying compost teas to soils, drench your plants and the area around them with the tea. You cannot overdo it.
And don't forget the sun: ultraviolet rays kill microbes. If you live in southern latitudes, you will want to apply before 10 am or after 3 pm, when UV rays are weakest, even on a cloudy day. There is no microbial sun block lotion. It can take 15 to 30 minutes for bacteria or fungal hyphae to attach themselves to a leaf (where they can get some protection) ---far too long a period to be exposed to the sun's rays. Alternatively, spray with a drop diameter of at least 1 millimeter; with that much water, bacteria can develop enough slime to establish themselves before the water even evaporates. UV rays can also negatively affect the microbiology in soil drenches, but you can be a bit more relaxed a bit out the timing of these since the microbes sink into the soil and leaf duff layer almost immediately.
Remember, you are dealing with living organisms here. The microbes you carefully cultivated and nurtured in your tea are very much alive and require gentle treatment. Sprayers must not exceed pressures of 70 pounds, and the velocity of the spray should be slow. Either stand back or turn the spray head up, so that the tea drops "parachute" down to the surfaces to be covered; there should be no forceful "splatting" of the tea onto the soil or lawn or plants, as this is what will sometimes kill the plant, not the pressure of the tank. Electrostatic sprayers, incidentally, may destroy microbes by putting the wrong charge on them, so test the tea from such a sprayer before using one.
It is possible to use a hand pump sprayer if you strain your tea, but you must take care not to strain the microbes out. The mesh of any "compost sock" should be at least 400 micrometers, which is big enough to let fungi and nematodes flow through but will keep out particulate matter that will clog conventional sprayers. Alternatively, you can decant a tea solution by letting it sit for 15 minutes after the aeration is stopped. This gets rid of a lot of the bits and pieces; the bad news is that often the amount of fungi in the ea is diminished.
You will be better off if you invest in a concrete sprayer, only with fewer bends, larger orifices, and nozzles that support bigger particles. For prices and availability, check with your local builders supply store, concrete contractor, concrete supply store, or sand and gravel company. A gasoline backpack mist sprayer is also appropriate, especially for a large yard. A great way to do a lawn is to use a traveling sprinkler with a fertilizer dispenser feeding tea into the water stream.
Whether sprayed or poured, the microbes in the tea will establish themselves, grow, breed, attract predators, eat and be eaten, or go dormant. They create protective barriers around the roots and release nutrients when they die. They create and improve soil structure. They make protective barriers on leaves and compete with bad guys there as well.
Compost teas go to work immediately, and for this reason it is important that the tea applied be a good one, full of beneficial organisms, not diseases or pathogens. There is little room or tolerance for a poorly made tea. If you are not up to the job yourself, you can purchase AACTs from an ever-growing number of commercial nurseries and garden center; some companies not only make but will apply compost teas for you. In either case, it is still advisable to ask for test to see how the tea measures up and, of course, don't be afraid to give commercially made teas the smell test before buying or applying them. They may have started out fine but hone anaerobic before sale.
you can apply AACTs as often as you like, but how often you need to apply them (especially if you are paying for them) depends, as you can imagine, on the status of the soil food web organisms in the areas concerned. First-timers should get a base reading on microbiology and arthropod counts before "taking up" this very effective tool. As your soil food web becomes healthier, you'll need to apply tea less often. Thus, if your yard has had applications of chemical fertilizers for years, you should put down compost tea every other week for 3 months to establish a healthy soil food web population. Then you can start applying tea once every month for a season and finally three times a year.
How much compost tea should you apply in any given session? For two years one of us used about 60 gallons a week on a quarter-acre lot with positive results. The general rule, however, is to apply five gallons of compost tea per acre as a soil drench, ten gallons if you are going to spray leaves as well. It is fine to dilute the tea: just make sure there were five gallons when you started. When you are more experienced, you can match the amount of tea you apply with soil test and tea test to achieve specific fungal or bacterial ratios.


Timing

When it comes to out competing disease organisms in the soil or phyllosphere, fungally dominated teas have been used to prevent and suppress the growth of powdery mildew (Erysiphe graminis on turf, Phytophthora spp. on rhododendrons), downy mildew (Sclerophthora spp.), take-all (Gaeumannomyces spp.), gray snow mold (Typhula spp.), pink snow mold (Microdochium spp.), rusts (Puccinia spp.), and fairly rings (all sorts of fungi).
Bacterially dominated teas have been useful in out competing pathogens in mild cases of dollar spot, necrotic ring spot, yellow patch, leaf spots, pink patch, and stripe smut. Insects too succumb to the effects of compost teas, specifically weevils, grubs, cut-worms, and chafers; several reports attest to negative impacts on whiteflies, fire ants, and scale.
At the first sign of disease or insect infestations on any of your plants, apply teas and repeat in five to seven days...you should also apply teas in advance to prevent breakouts.
Compost teas are a veritable liquid soil food web. Instead of lugging around wheelbarrows of compost, consider compost teas, a concentration of the same microbiology. When you use them, you are really teaming with microbes.


Annuals and vegetables prefer bacterially dominated soils

What are the soils in your vegetable and flower beds like? Look for earthworms. They survive by eating protozoa and bacteria, and, as with lawns, if you have lots of earthworms and earthworm castings in your soils, then you probably have bacterially dominated soils with plenty of nitrates, which are what most vegetables and annuals prefer (remember Rule #2). Set up the Berlese funnel and see what kinds of micro arthropods are roaming the soils. You want to see lots of bacteria- eating mites and good diversity of animals. Measure your soil's pH in the rhizosphere. If it is decidedly alkaline, you most probably have a bacterial dominance. Similarly, an acidic reading means you have fungi and probably fungal dominance. Finally, get your soils tested for its microbiology; this is the best way to know what is missing, if anything. Sure, an NPK test won't hurt, but it is really the biology you need to know about.


No One Ever Fertilized an Old Growth Forest

Does the soil food web really support plants? Will it work in your yard and gardens? Just to give you confidence and to encourage you to use what you have learned, we point you in the direction of the nearest forest. Or simply close your eyes and visualize any wooded area you remember visiting. You can almost hear a stream nearby, the wind running through the leaves. It is beautiful, majestic----and no one ever fertilized any of the plants there. Not one single time. How can this be??? You know the answer. The beautiful plants in these beautiful areas are completely controlled by the soil food webs in which they live.
It often comes as a surprise when gardeners so reflect. Only then does the full force of the realization hit: every single plant you are seeing produces exudates and attracts microbiology to its rhizosphere. This community in turn attracts micro- and macro arthropods, worms, mollusks, and the rest of a complete soil food web. It is a natural system, and it operates just fine without interference from man-made fertilizers, herbicides, and pesticides. Tall oaks grow from small acorns with no blue powders to feed them or nasty smelling sprays to protect them. Plants flourish nonetheless, thanks to bacteria, fungi, protozoa, nematodes, and the rest of the soil food web gang.
You have been introduced to the basic science of soil food webs. You know how the system works, and you have been exposed to its benefits. With microbiology returned to your garden, soil structure improves. Mycorrhizal fungi will help your lawn, trees, shrubs, perennials, annuals, and veggies get the nutrients they need. Pathogens face fierce competition. Plants get more of the kind of nitrogen they prefer. Water drainage and retention are improved. Pollutants are decayed. Food tastes better. Flowers look better. Trees are less stressed. And you don't have to work so hard; you will have lots of helpers. Best of all, you won't have to worry about the affects of chemicals on you and your family, pets, or friends.
Remember: no one ever fertilized an old growth forest. They didn't have to. You have been given the rules to garden using the soil food web. There are not many of them. What are you waiting for? Start teaming with microbes and get that biology into your soils and working for you. Gardening with the soil food web is the natural way to grow.
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Honey Oil
Written By: Bud Oilerman

Equipment and Materials To Make marijuana Honey Oil
Written By: Bud Oilerman
1. marijuana stalk, leaf and bud can be used. Make sure your marijuana is dry. DO NOT GRIND UP YOUR WEED. Start off this recipe with 4 ounces of weed. You can use as little as one ounce or as much as you want. Simply cook just leaf and produce a wicked honeyoil. Try to use buds for special occasions. The best place to get free weed is off of someone who just finished a grow room and has a whole bunch of trimmed leaves and stalk lying around.
2. Isopropyl Alcohol 99% pure. Make sure it is 99% pure Isopropyl Alcohol. The alcohol ranges from $5CDN to $13CDN per 4-litre plastic jug. Any pharmacy should have Isopropyl Alcohol 99% on the shelf. When using 4 ounces of weed as mentioned above you will need 2-litres of Isopropyl Alcohol 99%.
3. Empty 4-litre plastic milk jugs (4). Three jugs you cut the top off so you turn them into a pail. The other one you cut the bottom off so you can use it as a big funnel. Sterilize each one with hot water and clean thoroughly. DO NOT use soaps or cleansers to clean. No foreign debris in the jugs.
4. Empty 2-litre plastic coke bottles (2). Cut the tops off so you can use them like a funnel to pour into the bottom part of the bottle. Make sure the pieces are very clean. Again, just use very hot water to clean with and NO soap or cleansers.
5. Ordinary coffee filters. You'll need at least three filters to start with. You will be using the top of the cut up coke bottle and the filters together.
6. Refrigerator freezer or an IceBox to freeze all the ingredients.
7. Clear plastic tubing to fit the lid on a pressure cooker. 6 to 7 feet. Determine the size you need by reading the next item below.
8. Pressure Cooker of average size. They can be found at any second hand store. Can pay as little as $10CDN for second hand. Or you can buy one new. Pressure cookers have one or two holes in the lid, usually two. Take off the top fittings from the holes in the lid and insert three feet of clear plastic tubing in each hole. Maybe use some tubing from an aquarium. You can get cheap tubing from any hardware store. Pay attention to what size tubing you need for your lid. Please ensure when inserting the tubing into the top of the lid that it is secured airtight somehow. This is really the only pain in the butt part of it all. There are fittings you can get from the hardware stores or plumbing stores to help you. The alcohol will be going through the tubing while under a vacuum pressure. If you are not too handy at this, seek a friends help. Test your pressure cooker with boiling water. Positively NO LEAKS at the lid please. The open ends of the tubing will run into a collection pail so you can reuse your Isopropyl Alcohol over and over. The main purpose of a pressure cooker is to recycle your Isopropyl Alcohol and control dangerous fumes. You can just have the Isopropyl Alcohol evaporate away so you don't have to use tubing but this isn't recommended, it's highly flammable.
9. Electric Frying Pan that the pressure cooker will sit in.
10. Water to put into the electric frying pan to slowly heat the pressure cooker.
11. Small Pane of glass for drying out a finished product.




Preparation For Extracting Hash Honey Oil From marijuana
Written By: Bud OIlerman
1. Place the dry weed and jug of Isopropyl Alcohol 99% into the freezer. They can be in plastic containers. Do not grind up or rip up the weed. Just put it into the freezer.
2. Now prepare a juice weasel. Simply cut the jugs as described above. Check out all your plastic jugs for debris, hair, etc. Make sure they are clean.
3. Take weed and alcohol out of the freezer after a good hour or two of freezing. The colder they get, the better the reactions will be.
4. Rinse the weed with the frozen Isopropyl Alcohol 99%. Just put the weed in a jug with holes at each end. Simply pour the alcohol over the weed quickly and collect the alcohol/THC liquid mixture you will be left with. The alcohol/THC liquid mixture should look golden brown or yellowish in color. Don't throw out the weed you just washed. Again the weed and alcohol that was just used should end up in two seperate containers. One with washed weed and one with the Iso/THC mix.
5. Repeat this rinse cycle a good three times. DO NOT let the Isopropyl Alcohol 99% soak in the weed. You just want to do quick rinses while the alcohol and weed are still very cold. Otherwise you loose the nice golden yellowish clear color and the oil turns green from chlorophyll.
6. Place a doubled up coffee filter in the funnel you made from the coke bottle.
7. Now filter the rinsed out alcohol/THC liquid mixture by pouring it through the double coffee filter funnel and into the coke bottle. This gets rid of any sediment.
8. Throw away the double filter and use a single filter for a second pour or filtering. Never filter over a kitchen sink. Fire can go right down the drain and become very serious.
9. Now warm up the alcohol/THC liquid mixture to room temperature. This makes it easier to cook with.
10. The final product should look clear of debris and light brownish/yellowish honey in color. You have collected all the THC into the Isopropyl Alcohol. You are now ready to get rid of the alcohol and have just the THC left

Cooking marijuana Into Hash Honey Oil
1. Run an extension cord to a discrete place outdoors. the best method is to cook in the trunk of an old car in the backyard. The biggest reason for outside cooking is to help deal with dangerous alcohol fumes from the evaporation process. Cooking can be done inside on an open stove burner in a stainless steel pot, however the fumes in the air can ignite quite fast. A pressure cooker helps keep fumes in. A safer way to cook indoors is to use a pressure cooker on your stove. Very low heat. The pressure cooker helps recycle your alcohol for use again. So you see, it can be done indoors but at your own risk. It can be done with or without a pressure cooker. OUTDOORS PLEASE.
2. Fill your electric frying pan half full of water. 3. Place the filtered solution of alcohol/THC liquid mixture into the pressure cooker and place the lid on. Check the lid and make sure the fittings are tight. 4. Put the pressure cooker full of the alcohol/THC liquid mixture onto the electric fry pan half full of water. The warm water will evaporate the Isopropyl Alcohol.
5. Have the hoses running off your pressure cooker lid drip into a collection jug. You are recycling your alcohol. Do not place the tubing inside the jugs, have the tubing drip into them. If the tubing is right inside the alcohol in your collection jug and the pressure cooker drys up, a reverse vacuum will occur and your alcohol will be sucked back into the pressure cooker. This will happen at the end of the cooking process. A tight seal for the tubing on the pressure cooker lid is needed because a vacuum is created during cooking and is an essential part of the process so it must be working properly. If your seal is OK then the process goes real smooth. Again it is not recommended but the Isopropyl can just be evaporated in the air. OUTDOORS PLEASE.
6. Now turn on the heat for the electric frying pan to around 190 degrees Fahrenheit. NO HIGHER. VERY LOW HEAT. You are about to evaporate the Isopropyl Alcohol out of the THC.
7. Watch the process. It should take an hour to complete give or take fifteen minutes. The alcohol will begin to run out of the tubing at a steady rate. Just let it evaporate. Very low heat. Do not get impatient. Not too often, but every once in a while, lift up the pressure cooker lid and look at the progress being made. All you are really doing now is evaporating away the alcohol so you will be left with a high concentration of THC in oil form.
8. The alcohol in the tubing will stop being a steady stream and start to be airy with bubbles telling you no more alcohol is left. Another way to see if all the alcohol is evaporated is just look inside. The oil should be almost like a hot tar. If you tilt the pressure cooker around the oil will move like a slow liquid. 9. The process is now done cooking and should have 90% of your Isopropyl Alcohol returned in the collection jug. One can use the Isopropyl Alcohol over and over again.


Finishing Making marijuana Honey Oil
Written By: Bud OIlerman
1. While the pressure cooker is still warm, pour the finished honey oil onto something like a pane of glass. The honey oil still needs to evaporate a little more alcohol out of it. Just for an hour or so. Keep your eyes on the honey oil, as you don't want it to get rock hard. You'll like to be able to pick up the honey oil by a knife and have it drip slowly into a glass vial for storage. Don't mind the texture being a consistency to pick it up with a knife but it won't drip off into the glass vial, it needs just a little heat from a gas lighter to get the honey oil to flow.
2. marijuana Honey Oil will store forever in glass jars.
3. Yields are 1 gram to 3 grams of honey oil per ounce of leaf/stalk or 5 grams to 7 grams of honeyoil per ounce of bud.
4. The old weed you rinsed can be soaked in Isopropyl Alcohol instead of a quick rinse. Soak it for 2 or three hours. Use the same cooking procedures. This will produce a lesser quality green marijuana oil that everyone is used to seeing.
5. Smoke it in a pipe, on a rolling paper with weed, on charcoal, off a pin, off a hot knife, or whatever you think is cool. Personally, try to a bent the end of kitchen knife to sit on a small torch. Stays on the torch all day.
6. The honey oil is well worth the effort. One hoot and you are wasted.
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See no Evil, Speak no Evil, Smoke no Evil
 
VTMi'kmaq

VTMi'kmaq

Well-Known Member
there's a shitload of guerilla growers up there that wont even fart near ya unless your aquainted somehow lol, you'd be shocked at some of the shit ive seen up there! Once saw a plant growing in a big garbage bag 20 feet up a white pine tree true story!
 
cannawizard

cannawizard

Well-Known Member
cannawizard

cannawizard

Well-Known Member
Mohican said:
Those girls look outstanding!

Are they already trimmed?
Click to expand...
Just chopped and hung~ not much to mani on the flowers, and i'm not one to complain-- less snipping --the better, some trim sessions can leave you feeling like you got carpal tunnel :joint:

THNX MO~ your grows are always budporn, scott og pics were my fav:leaf:, cheer$ bro
 
VTMi'kmaq

VTMi'kmaq

Well-Known Member
cannawizard said:
still looks 3x better in-person, Lol :hump:
Click to expand...
we really need to invent scratch and sniff online pics! For fucks sake canna I am in awe over those ladies! Ya know I have made the mistake of jumping into other forums here thinking I was sharing and the folks getting this info were sincerely appreciative of my knowledge and help, ive learned by paying close attention that all I did was fall into a small group of immature jerks who think harassing memebers here and judging them based on whatever twisted idealology raised them to think the way they do. When I joined here in 2009 I was sketched so I left. Came back in 2012 when I was legal and found a good group of folks here in club 600, I had to leave riu for a bit for two knee surgeries and a lowerback operation to remove metal fragments from my lumbar area. when I came back I noticed a few of the people I met are gone with the exception of say 10-15 diehards that are all mostly mods now lol. What ive noticed is there's a group of growers nowadays that are faking def not what I was expecting here. Grabass like in high school over bud pron? lol, then talking shit behind people's backs like high school kids! Kinda sad. I have made a huge mistake here of letting individuals wind me up and piss me off with stupid shit they type and say. Funny thing is it was harder for me to walk away sorta speak online than it is in person for some strange reason. I served my country and during my service picked up a rage disorder that I struggle with on a daily basis even at my age. I write this because I finnaly found a thread where I can share, speak my mind and feel genuinely like folks appreciate what im trying to do here, so thankyou guys! I am as serious as a heart attack, this isn't a hobby for me its a lifestyle!:blsmoke:
 
cannawizard

cannawizard

Well-Known Member
VTMi'kmaq said:
we really need to invent scratch and sniff online pics! For fucks sake canna I am in awe over those ladies! Ya know I have made the mistake of jumping into other forums here thinking I was sharing and the folks getting this info were sincerely appreciative of my knowledge and help, ive learned by paying close attention that all I did was fall into a small group of immature jerks who think harassing memebers here and judging them based on whatever twisted idealology raised them to think the way they do. When I joined here in 2009 I was sketched so I left. Came back in 2012 when I was legal and found a good group of folks here in club 600, I had to leave riu for a bit for two knee surgeries and a lowerback operation to remove metal fragments from my lumbar area. when I came back I noticed a few of the people I met are gone with the exception of say 10-15 diehards that are all mostly mods now lol. What ive noticed is there's a group of growers nowadays that are faking def not what I was expecting here. Grabass like in high school over bud pron? lol, then talking shit behind people's backs like high school kids! Kinda sad. I have made a huge mistake here of letting individuals wind me up and piss me off with stupid shit they type and say. Funny thing is it was harder for me to walk away sorta speak online than it is in person for some strange reason. I served my country and during my service picked up a rage disorder that I struggle with on a daily basis even at my age. I write this because I finnaly found a thread where I can share, speak my mind and feel genuinely like folks appreciate what im trying to do here, so thankyou guys! I am as serious as a heart attack, this isn't a hobby for me its a lifestyle!:blsmoke:
Click to expand...
I feel ya bruh, too many fakes/posers in this "industry"~ Glad you shared that personal info :) feel free to make youself feel at-home :joint: You are among good people~
 
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