Can you store extra Nutrient & Water Mix for next feeding?

SmokeInUp420

SmokeInUp420

Member
I can't seem to find the answer to this, except nutrient reservoirs. I really don't want to have to keep my air stone constantly running in it, or any of the other reservoir requirements. I wouldn't probably have to much extra if anything since I've got it fairly roughed out, so it would probably sit for a week max. Any issues/suggestions? Thanks.
 
SmokeInUp420

SmokeInUp420

Member
xtsho said:
Some can some cant. Sit for a week.

A small pond pump is better for circulation than an air stone by the way.
Click to expand...
I'm currently using tap water that sat out for 24 hours to get the chlorine out, with general hydroponics trio pack. This brand able to?
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
X is right.
You can.
You should move the solution around...


Still, I don't understand why you simply just make enough that you need for the time....Small amount? Do the math, figure out what you need and do that.

Mix mine everyday.
I feed everyday (synthetic run plants) Use enough to get them to the next day at lights on. Repeat....This gives you better o2 to the roots, a good thing!

Same for water only organic plants......Water everyday, same rules, same way.
 
SmokeInUp420

SmokeInUp420

Member
Dr. Who said:
X is right.
You can.
You should move the solution around...


Still, I don't understand why you simply just make enough that you need for the time....Small amount? Do the math, figure out what you need and do that.

Mix mine everyday.
I feed everyday (synthetic run plants) Use enough to get them to the next day at lights on. Repeat....This gives you better o2 to the roots, a good thing!

Same for water only organic plants......Water everyday, same rules, same way.
Click to expand...
That is what I do, I typically have very little run-off but would rather save it, or save time by having the next mix ready. This is only my 2nd grow btw, but done tons of research. I'm curious after what you said if xtsho meant some nutes can, but only with circulation? Can't just stir it when you need it? Like I said if you have to/should use constant circulation, I will just prepare my nutes as needed. Also, you say everyday??? You on coco-coir? That's crazy lol. Thought coco stayed wet longer. I'm using Pro-Mix HP without coco. I also don't like the idea of transplanting, so I start in bigger pots. I only water the center, with 4 litres for all 9 plants. They last 2 days wet with a fan on them ;p. How would the bottom roots ever get water? I even thought of putting air stones under the medium to really aerate it lol. Thanks again, appreciate any advice :)
 
Last edited:
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
SmokeInUp420 said:
That is what I do, I typically have very little run-off but would rather save it, or save time by having the next mix ready. This is only my 2nd grow btw, but done tons of research. I'm curious after what you said if xtsho meant some nutes can, but only with circulation? Can't just stir it when you need it? Like I said if you have to/should use constant circulation, I will just prepare my nutes as needed. Also, you say everyday??? You on coco-coir? That's crazy lol. Thought coco stayed wet longer. I'm using Pro-Mix HP without coco. I also don't like the idea of transplanting, so I start in bigger pots. I only water the center, with 4 litres for all 9 plants. They last 2 days wet with a fan on them ;p. How would the bottom roots ever get water? I even thought of putting air stones under the medium to really aerate it lol. Thanks again, appreciate any advice :)
Click to expand...

Nope soil.
I build my own and use the "base" soil (good for about 30 days) in synthetic run plants.
I use Botanicare KIND line. Hardly need the GROW.
Mix the BASE and the BLOOM at my own ratio's (close to the charting)
Supplement only average amounts of a Mg and K sulfate formula of my own. This is stopped at week 6 or 7...(Mg and K compounds in late bloom lower final THC counts)
Any amendments for increasing THC counts, is done in soil prep.

Root balls are composted, the soil is recharged and reused.....Some of my soil is around 5 years old...

Now then. As far as nutrient mix's sitting around. Not a great idea.. Air stones in a res, keep the dissolved o2 up and prevent a stagnant issue from coming in (I've seen a solution "stratify" or separate into layers of density) . Moving solutions stay fresh longer and loose less o2........Some time ago, when there were a cpl of commercial operations in my wallet. I had 100 gallon, half round tanks against the wall. This was air stoned and had a small pump that would pull from the bottom and return, from the top of the tank. It had another pump that would send the solution out by small hose, and you watered by walking the row's and applying by a wand. Amounts are done by simply counting how long you held the release down.....I simply timed how long it took to fill a measuring bucket to my required volume for watering a plant.... 1-2-3 stop move to next plant and 1-2-3 and move, etc, etc.
 
xtsho

xtsho

Well-Known Member
Like I said, it comes down to what your nutrient solution is. The nutes I use are just water soluble calcium nitrate, micronutrients, and monopotassium phosphate. A typical hydro nutrient solution. The solution is just chemical salts and is crystal clear with a golden tint when mixed up. When I use gravity fed blumats with coco the solution in the reservoir will sometimes take a week before I need to replenish it. Using a small pond pump in the bottom of the reservoir keeps the solution circulating and nothing precipitates out. The act of the water circulating is better than using air stones.

But again, it's pretty much dependent on what nutrients you're using.

 
SmokeInUp420

SmokeInUp420

Member
Dr. Who said:
Nope soil.
I build my own and use the "base" soil (good for about 30 days) in synthetic run plants.
I use Botanicare KIND line. Hardly need the GROW.
Mix the BASE and the BLOOM at my own ratio's (close to the charting)
Supplement only average amounts of a Mg and K sulfate formula of my own. This is stopped at week 6 or 7...(Mg and K compounds in late bloom lower final THC counts)
Any amendments for increasing THC counts, is done in soil prep.

Root balls are composted, the soil is recharged and reused.....Some of my soil is around 5 years old...

Now then. As far as nutrient mix's sitting around. Not a great idea.. Air stones in a res, keep the dissolved o2 up and prevent a stagnant issue from coming in (I've seen a solution "stratify" or separate into layers of density) . Moving solutions stay fresh longer and loose less o2........Some time ago, when there were a cpl of commercial operations in my wallet. I had 100 gallon, half round tanks against the wall. This was air stoned and had a small pump that would pull from the bottom and return, from the top of the tank. It had another pump that would send the solution out by small hose, and you watered by walking the row's and applying by a wand. Amounts are done by simply counting how long you held the release down.....I simply timed how long it took to fill a measuring bucket to my required volume for watering a plant.... 1-2-3 stop move to next plant and 1-2-3 and move, etc, etc.
Click to expand...
Interesting, great advice again thanks. I want to work for The Green Organic Dutchman if I can :). I live right down the road from a new huge facility.
 
SmokeInUp420

SmokeInUp420

Member
xtsho said:
Like I said, it comes down to what your nutrient solution is. The nutes I use are just water soluble calcium nitrate, micronutrients, and monopotassium phosphate. A typical hydro nutrient solution. The solution is just chemical salts and is crystal clear with a golden tint when mixed up. When I use gravity fed blumats with coco the solution in the reservoir will sometimes take a week before I need to replenish it. Using a small pond pump in the bottom of the reservoir keeps the solution circulating and nothing precipitates out. The act of the water circulating is better than using air stones.

But again, it's pretty much dependent on what nutrients you're using.

Click to expand...
Cheers :), just gunna prepare the nutes as needed then, keep em fresh. I wanna do hydro so badly, but I'm worried to until I know a lot more. Btw I was going to make a new thread but maybe I'll just try ask here. Do you or Dr.Who know if T12 lights are worse than CFL's? I have 7 plants under 2 40 watt Phillips bulbs, with 2600 lumens. The other 2 are under 2 CFL's, 1 each plant, 23 watt (100 equiv.), 1600 lumens. I expected the T12's to be better, but they are very noticeably worse. Do you know why this is?
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
mr. childs said:
never heard that before. epsom salt & potassium sulfate in the last two weeks are two of my main stays along with tapering off of the main nutes.
Click to expand...
Yup very true!
Here's more.....
Over use of N, By getting to the dark green, shiny leaf point, reduces THC by restricting trich production.... This is a volumetric reduction.
It also restrict's Interior plant THC concentrations by overwhelming or blocking out needed enzimatic actions to produce THC later on.

Higher Mg and K in late bloom. Do much the same, as far as the second part of above. It can vary by just how much your jacking the Mg or K sulfate levels.

So, I can tell your shooting for increasing trich development and bud size, with added density...Correct?

Start your Mg and K supplementing a cpl of feedings before you flip them. Say 5 ml per gallon each with a 1.5 % Mg sulfate mix, and a 6 % K sulfate mix.

Up that to 10 per at the flip and stop use at week 6 or 7 (at least 3 weeks of no supplementing to run down the media and plant held concentrations)

Supplement makers are selling you only on the "Bigger and Better" aspect. They don't care what the WHOLE truth is. Only that most growers understand that "Bigger and Better" is their goal.
So Product XYZ at stupid cost will do that......The real cost, is hidden from you....

The whole late run Bloom Booster thing is way overblown and poorly applied.
 
M

mr. childs

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
Yup very true!
Here's more.....
Over use of N, By getting to the dark green, shiny leaf point, reduces THC by restricting trich production.... This is a volumetric reduction.
It also restrict's Interior plant THC concentrations by overwhelming or blocking out needed enzimatic actions to produce THC later on.

Higher Mg and K in late bloom. Do much the same, as far as the second part of above. It can vary by just how much your jacking the Mg or K sulfate levels.

So, I can tell your shooting for increasing trich development and bud size, with added density...Correct?

Start your Mg and K supplementing a cpl of feedings before you flip them. Say 5 ml per gallon each with a 1.5 % Mg sulfate mix, and a 6 % K sulfate mix.

Up that to 10 per at the flip and stop use at week 6 or 7 (at least 3 weeks of no supplementing to run down the media and plant held concentrations)

Supplement makers are selling you only on the "Bigger and Better" aspect. They don't care what the WHOLE truth is. Only that most growers understand that "Bigger and Better" is their goal.
So Product XYZ at stupid cost will do that......The real cost, is hidden from you....

The whole late run Bloom Booster thing is way overblown and poorly applied.
Click to expand...
i remember some years ago you posting your recipe for sweet & terpinator, i never made either, but i thank you for the knowledge & passing it on.

i know about the overuse of n in late flower & it being counter productive, but if we are feeding enzymes through our media, can they somehow taken up by the plant?

the last fancy label bottle i purchased was demeter's destiny. it works pretty well as a foliar for me under the leds. i am still a jacks citrus man, along with megacrop. always using a teaspoon to a gallon of epsom salt throughout the grow should be enough to suffice you think?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top