Can you get “Hydro” to have the same quality as “Soil”?

Milky Weed

Well-Known Member
I know this may be a loaded subject, but I’m asking all experienced growers (that have done both), can you get the same results from hydro as from soil if you use specific nutrients?

I can’t wrap my head around that if you did a Hydro Soiless setup and managed to provide all trace nutrients soil has, that it would turn out different or lower quality.

Are there more symbiotic relationships within healthy soil that soil-less just can’t compete with? Would you not just be able to add these beneficial organisms to the Soiless To get the same results?
 

Topshelfruns

Well-Known Member
Lol you sound alot smarter than I am but in a short answer yes you can get hydro too produce some str8 fire boss man I have grown in Rockwool / cococoir and produced straight dank with both
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
I know this may be a loaded subject, but I’m asking all experienced growers (that have done both), can you get the same results from hydro as from soil if you use specific nutrients?

I can’t wrap my head around that if you did a Hydro Soiless setup and managed to provide all trace nutrients soil has, that it would turn out different or lower quality.

Are there more symbiotic relationships within healthy soil that soil-less just can’t compete with? Would you not just be able to add these beneficial organisms to the Soiless To get the same results?
Great question… If you do it right you shouldn’t be able to tell how it was grown. Hydro grows are best for ROI but organic soil is easier for the average home grower IMHO. The real difference to me is access to clean water &compost which makes symbiosis possible in the first place. You don’t need symbiosis to grow good bud but without it you will need to provide the full range of nutrients whereas with soil you just water them.
The biggest difference is that in living soil the plants take up what they need as they need it through cation exchange; naturally feeding plants feed themselves. In a hydro grow you are force feeding them everything all the time whether they need it or not…kinda wasteful but without fungi to assist with absorption there is no cation exchange; whatever synthetic nutrients you feed them are sucked up directly by the roots. This is why keeping ph in range is important in a soilless grow; so the full range is absorbed. The composition of the soil itself is what keeps ph in range; the water you give does not affect the ph at the root zone.
Whatever synthetic nutrients you feed will eventually be deposited into the flesh of the plant even if you flush. Doesn’t mean they won’t grow good bud but your choice of nutrient line can make a huge difference in end product quality. This is why grapes taste different and have different alcohol content when grown in different regions; it has to do with soil composition, mineral content, amount of rain fall, etc. The quality of the vintage changes from year to year.
So to answer your question many have tried to straddle the line between hydro and organic but it’s usually best going one way or the other. You cannot really introduce too much bacteria or fungi into a sterile hydro grow without causing other issues. There are “bennies” like hydro guard products but these are not symbiotic to cannabis root systems. You can just grow in soil with synthetic nutrients but eventually whatever was alive in the soil will slowly die off leaving your mix essentially sterile. Yes…nutrients cannot really complete with natural symbiosis but that doesn’t mean you cannot grow good quality bud with nutes. I have grown for years with nutrients and had unbelievable yields it’s just that when it was all curing in the jar something always tasted “off”. That’s probably because in my old aero rails & DWC buckets I used cheap Technaflora nutrients that I do not recommend. Botanicare for example is a far superior product line; have done comparisons with a friends bud and detected no trace of anything weird. The quality of the nutrients you use is very important if hydro is your preference.
Once I got a grow off in natural soil I never went back; it is just so much easier to get very good quality bud with zero effort other than just watering. No checking ph/ppms and no hassle carrying heavy buckets all over the house. I literally water my plants with dehumidifier water I used to dump down the drain. I have a worm bin that provides free castings without which my grow wouldn’t be as easily sustainable.
It’s not that one way is “better” than the other it’s really about what works for you in your own situation. If you want the best tasting bud possible with minimal efforts learn about living soil and aquire a source of active compost. If huge yields are your aim and all you have access to is city tap water invest in some decent nutes & go hydro.
 

Milky Weed

Well-Known Member
Great question… If you do it right you shouldn’t be able to tell how it was grown. Hydro grows are best for ROI but organic soil is easier for the average home grower IMHO. The real difference to me is access to clean water &compost which makes symbiosis possible in the first place. You don’t need symbiosis to grow good bud but without it you will need to provide the full range of nutrients whereas with soil you just water them.
The biggest difference is that in living soil the plants take up what they need as they need it through cation exchange; naturally feeding plants feed themselves. In a hydro grow you are force feeding them everything all the time whether they need it or not…kinda wasteful but without fungi to assist with absorption there is no cation exchange; whatever synthetic nutrients you feed them are sucked up directly by the roots. This is why keeping ph in range is important in a soilless grow; so the full range is absorbed. The composition of the soil itself is what keeps ph in range; the water you give does not affect the ph at the root zone.
Whatever synthetic nutrients you feed will eventually be deposited into the flesh of the plant even if you flush. Doesn’t mean they won’t grow good bud but your choice of nutrient line can make a huge difference in end product quality. This is why grapes taste different and have different alcohol content when grown in different regions; it has to do with soil composition, mineral content, amount of rain fall, etc. The quality of the vintage changes from year to year.
So to answer your question many have tried to straddle the line between hydro and organic but it’s usually best going one way or the other. You cannot really introduce too much bacteria or fungi into a sterile hydro grow without causing other issues. There are “bennies” like hydro guard products but these are not symbiotic to cannabis root systems. You can just grow in soil with synthetic nutrients but eventually whatever was alive in the soil will slowly die off leaving your mix essentially sterile. Yes…nutrients cannot really complete with natural symbiosis but that doesn’t mean you cannot grow good quality bud with nutes. I have grown for years with nutrients and had unbelievable yields it’s just that when it was all curing in the jar something always tasted “off”. That’s probably because in my old aero rails & DWC buckets I used cheap Technaflora nutrients that I do not recommend. Botanicare for example is a far superior product line; have done comparisons with a friends bud and detected no trace of anything weird. The quality of the nutrients you use is very important if hydro is your preference.
Once I got a grow off in natural soil I never went back; it is just so much easier to get very good quality bud with zero effort other than just watering. No checking ph/ppms and no hassle carrying heavy buckets all over the house. I literally water my plants with dehumidifier water I used to dump down the drain. I have a worm bin that provides free castings without which my grow wouldn’t be as easily sustainable.
It’s not that one way is “better” than the other it’s really about what works for you in your own situation. If you want the best tasting bud possible with minimal efforts learn about living soil and aquire a source of active compost. If huge yields are your aim and all you have access to is city tap water invest in some decent nutes & go hydro.
I really appreciate you taking the time to break it down for me, thank you.
 

Markshomegrown

Well-Known Member
Dirt can give you amazing quality buds and massive crops that can match any hydro system, when you fine turn your setup and gained a lot of experience, selecting the right strain and keeping the right cutting can make the biggest difference.

(Hydro systems) can be very experience and complex to set up and run.
(soil) pots, compost and dry plant food is way cheaper and very simple to set up.
 

Ice Cubez

Well-Known Member
spider mites cant live in a bucket of water. Spider mites can and WILL stay in your soil until the next grow.
 

Thundercat

Well-Known Member
Absolutely! Given two of the same healthy clones, I can totally grow you plants so similar you wouldn't have a clue which was which.

Most people that talk about "they can tell the difference" or "they can taste the nutrients" or "organic soil is the only thing that matters and everything else is trash" are full os shit. They are also the ones that claim they can taste if the buds were flushed or not. Then when given a blind test they are just guessing, I've never seen someone consistently be able to pick out soil or hydro or chem nutrients vs organic.
 
I know this may be a loaded subject, but I’m asking all experienced growers (that have done both), can you get the same results from hydro as from soil if you use specific nutrients?

I can’t wrap my head around that if you did a Hydro Soiless setup and managed to provide all trace nutrients soil has, that it would turn out different or lower quality.

Are there more symbiotic relationships within healthy soil that soil-less just can’t compete with? Would you not just be able to add these beneficial organisms to the Soiless To get the same results?
Hyrdo\Aero done right is the most efficient way to supply nutrient to a plant, shouldn't be anything loaded about that.

It's easier to screw things up IMO but in some ways easier to to recover as well it just depends. You can get the all the nutrients needed for hydro so that isn't an issue. Get it right it will grow quicker to a given size thus typically larger harvest and be the best the plant genetics allow for.

To be clear I agree with what Thurndercat said, consuming the final product shouldn't be noticeable.
 

Markshomegrown

Well-Known Member
spider mites cant live in a bucket of water. Spider mites can and WILL stay in your soil until the next grow.
If i get Spider mites, I wouldn't think about reusing the soil, I would probable do the same as you, bleach everything in the grow rooms and replace everything I can't bleach, even my carbon filter!
 

Ice Cubez

Well-Known Member
If i get Spider mites, I wouldn't think about reusing the soil, I would probable do the same as you, bleach everything in the grow rooms and replace everything I can't bleach, even my carbon filter!
Sucks you have soil in ur room in that case! If I want more water i just turn my tap on :D
 

Markshomegrown

Well-Known Member
Sucks you have soil in ur room in that case! If I want more water i just turn my tap on :D
The cost of a good hydro system, bottle nutes and all the extra equipment sound like a lot of fun but I want to keep my money in my pocket.
Soil can be dirt cheap if you do it right and you can set up a perpetual grow that can match any hydro system(based on a low plant count, 1 plant per 2ft2). harvest every 7-8 weeks(take cutting before flowering the plants off).
 
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