can some one tell me why....

can someone tell me why my plants look bleached in the center of the leaves .Im using super soil in 7 gallon bags under a 1000 watter with the light real high away from the plants with temps in the mid 70's. The plants have been in flower now about a week.

Hey, from your pics,( nice plants by the way, what are they?strain wise), i would say its a deficiency , and as it is younger leaves i would say its not one of the macros, or secondaries, i couldnt see any blotches , and it would seem its yellowing from apex as opposed to the tips so id say iron.
Dosn't seem to be zinc or manganese, as that envoles blotches,,
I could be wrong though,, im sure someone with more knowledge will pipe in with exactly what it is,,

micro nute deficiency, looks like iron/sulfer.

thanks to you guys for your opinon on that i think i will try and give it a tea (fish ,molasses,kelp) brewed over night of course. I hope that gets it back up to par.But i thought super soil had all the nutrients that was needed ? But this is my second batch of growing with this soil i just amended it over again this time around. ohh i almost forgot the stain im growing is vortex

Hey big tony,
yeah well just because a soil has all the stuff in it dosnt mean the plant can take them in. Hence why the ph needs to be right. Among other things,
Also with that size of plant it has probably used all the available nutes up. Or at least the ones that it needs,
just make sure that you dont over do it with the fish and kelp, or molasses as apart from it wanting some iron she look mighty healthy.

so what in super soil that is suppose to take care of that deficiency i might have not added enough of ? i'm ready to learn

i thought that the lime you added was to care of the ph problems with organic growing this way?

azomite (extra unimportant letters to be able to post.)

My plants did that exact same thing in the stretch period with Super Soil (recipe followed to the T, with Roots base soil). I attributed it to the very rapid growth durin that period, and the leaves taking a little while to green up from the light color they start with. The leaves darkened up on their own, and all was well.

I would STRONGLY advise waiting it out a little before you go feeding them anything they don't need (in my opinion and experience).

In fact, the "bud to be" in my signature (Pandoras Box) looked bleached like yours a few days before that picture was taken.

ok thanks and you say i need some azomite because i do have some here this is there fist week of flowering i just want them to be as healthy possible

bigtony said:

i thought that the lime you added was to care of the ph problems with organic growing this way?

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I'm not there to check it but my guess is the ph level of the supersoil is to high.

Well, i dont use super soil so dont know how much of what it cointains, you will also have to get the soil to transfer the nutes to the lower part of the soil with water,,but you know this,
lime will buffer the ph, so the ph certainly isnt an issue, and depending on the type of lime, it may contain cal and magnesium, but depending on the type and grade( fine,course, flour etc) will vary its avaiblity,some course and large lime can take years to become avaible, but the lime and ph aint the problem ay,,,
and if you are using the soil as a mulch it would eventually get to the roots, just not as quickly as applying it through a fert or tea,,
on the soil amendment front, mineral amendments maybe ph neutral but cointain few avaible nutrients, they decompose by ersion and weathering, taking time to release the good stuff, once again you probly know this,
this page may help,,,http://www.ghorganics.com/page32.html, it suggest bone meal as a source of iron,, but i know cow and chicken manure also cointains big amounts of iron, but once again it will take abit of time to become rotted enough not to burn foilage,,if you wanted to foilar feed it the iron. Also iron is immoble, hence why he young leaves show signs first. And high levels of iron dont really damage the plant but it will interfere with the up take of phosphorus, i say wont really hurt but too much of anything will,,
Sorry if im all over the place, im alittle baked.

lol !! good info you guys but how do you check your ph in soil will one of those soil meters work well ? sorry but was always a water guy myself

bunnyface what method do you use ? Do you just give all of your nutrient yourself thru every watering and don't add anything to your soil

Yeah those meter work ok, but if you dont want to spend more than a few quid buy that liptmus paper and when you water collect the runoff and it will give you a good idea of the ph, but since you have lime in the mix it certainly wont go above 7, but could go lower depending on how much of your tea you use, from those pics though i doubt that you ph is off, infact to me , i bet a joint that your ph is 6.5, bang on i bet.

Well i use soil for my mothers and then am trying out hydro for the first time,, i dont use any nutes until flower when i add some topmax,, some people will say its a snakeoil, but it dose work and i think its more like a trace element mix just to keep the trace elements up, i use biobizz all mix which dose great by itself till flower, then i give a little of a helping hand with the topmax, i did use there bloom formula but found great results with compost that i use to make a tea, maybe once a week, the rest of the time just water ,from my mums garden up north. Id have to ask her how she makes it and whats in it but its great stuff for flowers. So yes i do add stuff but not for the whole grow,
Like you i add lime, fine dolomite lime to the mix, and i crush up my rabbits poo ,mix with water and add that before i plant it up.
one mug of lime to 10litres of soil, so that is alittle under 3 gallons of soil, if i converted that right,

O and also topmax is certified organic so you dont have to worry about losing your organic methods.

First off in order to make a good organic mix it has to be mixed last year and planted the next. I start out by sundrying and cleaning #2 earth, non-ureanated cow manure, and supermix organic spagnum peat moss. I cut a mixer of 50% #2 earth with a 50/50 mix of the cow manure and peat. I start the ph balance with dolomite lime and if I go a wee bit far I'll cut in some ash to fix it. About three months before planting I'll throw a dose of pure N onto the mix leaving it to the elements during the winter month. When the time is correct my seedlings go in the mix. When they are ready they will recieve a dose of six parts N, twelve parts P, and twelve parts K. You guys are all geniuses, I'm sure you can figure the rest from here

bird mcbride said:

You guys are all geniuses, I'm sure you can figure the rest from here

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No need to be rude...