Calli's Conundrums

Please forgive the intrusion, however you may find the fowling course of investigation a meaningful one (or not but hopefully you aren't offended by the concept). I do not claim to understand ion exchange and I have yet to educate myself enough to understand how to optimize the conditions for plant growth both for an indoor highly controlled garden to something less controlled by human influence. What am I missing about organic and beyond organic techniques you are using? What am I missing about organic techniques in general that seem to ignore so called micro minerals like iron, sulfur, chlorine, when relying on organic composting?

This balance of chemical reactions seems controlled by or influenced by ion exchange and my simpleton mind correlates this to humans and hydration. Electrolytes are necessary for human survival (regardless of your dietary preferences, veg head, vegan, lacto-juevo veg, paleo....).

So my calliundrum is exactly this., I'm not organic, I'm not inorganic (as a gardener). FWIW I appreciate your stance on EM, I am currently using EM in my efforts and this one involves making a bokashi with a feed product for livestock that contains iron, calcium, magnesium and other minerals, this is a supplement for the worm bin that has devolved into an insect frass experiment.

sorry for the rambling, hopefully I've not offended, I fully support the ideals of a sustainable garden.

calliandra said:

@ShLUbY
I think the ones I have in my garden are ostrich ferns?! Just noticed these a few days ago:
View attachment 3916216

So I think I'm set not to get poisoned - unlike the general outcry at our permaculture group meeting the other day would lead me to assume, namely, that I will DIE if I even THINK of eating ferns lol. (they were speaking of bracken, mainly)

Quite unknown, this fiddlehead business, in these parts here!

Click to expand...

that looks like ostrich fern to me! I'd have to see the fiddleheads though. they should have a brown thin papery husk around them when they are first emerging and also be quite dense/compacted.

SSGrower said:

Please forgive the intrusion, however you may find the fowling course of investigation a meaningful one (or not but hopefully you aren't offended by the concept). I do not claim to understand ion exchange and I have yet to educate myself enough to understand how to optimize the conditions for plant growth both for an indoor highly controlled garden to something less controlled by human influence. What am I missing about organic and beyond organic techniques you are using? What am I missing about organic techniques in general that seem to ignore so called micro minerals like iron, sulfur, chlorine, when relying on organic composting?

This balance of chemical reactions seems controlled by or influenced by ion exchange and my simpleton mind correlates this to humans and hydration. Electrolytes are necessary for human survival (regardless of your dietary preferences, veg head, vegan, lacto-juevo veg, paleo....).

So my calliundrum is exactly this., I'm not organic, I'm not inorganic (as a gardener). FWIW I appreciate your stance on EM, I am currently using EM in my efforts and this one involves making a bokashi with a feed product for livestock that contains iron, calcium, magnesium and other minerals, this is a supplement for the worm bin that has devolved into an insect frass experiment.

sorry for the rambling, hopefully I've not offended, I fully support the ideals of a sustainable garden.

Click to expand...

Not sure what you're asking bud? We are not ignoring things like iron, sulfur, and chlorine... many of those things are already naturally in the soil, but also in things that get composted and recycled and therefore are being supplemented.

yes there are many ion exchange processes happening in the soil (Cation Exchange aka CEC), but there are also covalently bonded minerals that are being broken down by fungi and bacteria by chemical excretion and then absorbed and made plant available.

we'd be happy to help you out in any way!

ShLUbY said:

Not sure what you're asking bud? We are not ignoring things like iron, sulfur, and chlorine... many of those things are already naturally in the soil, but also in things that get composted and recycled and therefore are being supplemented.

yes there are many ion exchange processes happening in the soil (Cation Exchange aka CEC), but there are also covalently bonded minerals that are being broken down by fungi and bacteria by chemical excretion and then absorbed and made plant available.

we'd be happy to help you out in any way!

Click to expand...

ignore was too strong a word, perhaps a casual forgetfulness to mention. The various methods of composting are of particular interist to me and I guess I dont really have specific questions but rather find yours and Calli's threads very stimulating to read however realize they are beyond much of my capacity. Again not wanting to offend, Super soil? whats so super? I'm more interested in getting a reusable sustainable gardening system. So I'm basically hoping to provoke the exact kind of thought you must have went through before you responded.

I'm trying to incorporate "organic" techniques, I also want to manipulate CEC. Correct me if I am wrong but I view the use of calcium chloride aka pickle crisp a non organic technique? To be organic is to be made all from what is available from the biology of things.? relating to or derived from living matter. The addition of mineral salts still organic?? Mass respect for you shluby

SSGrower said:

ignore was too strong a word, perhaps a casual forgetfulness to mention. The various methods of composting are of particular interist to me and I guess I dont really have specific questions but rather find yours and Calli's threads very stimulating to read however realize they are beyond much of my capacity. Again not wanting to offend, Super soil? whats so super? I'm more interested in getting a reusable sustainable gardening system. So I'm basically hoping to provoke the exact kind of thought you must have went through before you responded.

I'm trying to incorporate "organic" techniques, I also want to manipulate CEC. Correct me if I am wrong but I view the use of calcium chloride aka pickle crisp a non organic technique? To be organic is to be made all from what is available from the biology of things.? relating to or derived from living matter. The addition of mineral salts still organic?? Mass respect for you shluby

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the definition of organic is "built of or containing carbon"; so, when it comes to things like food and growing things... i think "organic" is kind of a silly term to use because there are many organic things that can be harmful to your produce/medicine/self.

but you have the right idea... the more natural your choices are for your additions to the garden, the better for your overall environment (within reason obviously!)

I think if you want to manipulate CEC.... you need to understand CEC in the first place. what are you trying to accomplish?

SSGrower said:

Please forgive the intrusion, however you may find the fowling course of investigation a meaningful one (or not but hopefully you aren't offended by the concept). I do not claim to understand ion exchange and I have yet to educate myself enough to understand how to optimize the conditions for plant growth both for an indoor highly controlled garden to something less controlled by human influence. What am I missing about organic and beyond organic techniques you are using? What am I missing about organic techniques in general that seem to ignore so called micro minerals like iron, sulfur, chlorine, when relying on organic composting?

This balance of chemical reactions seems controlled by or influenced by ion exchange and my simpleton mind correlates this to humans and hydration. Electrolytes are necessary for human survival (regardless of your dietary preferences, veg head, vegan, lacto-juevo veg, paleo....).

So my calliundrum is exactly this., I'm not organic, I'm not inorganic (as a gardener). FWIW I appreciate your stance on EM, I am currently using EM in my efforts and this one involves making a bokashi with a feed product for livestock that contains iron, calcium, magnesium and other minerals, this is a supplement for the worm bin that has devolved into an insect frass experiment.

sorry for the rambling, hopefully I've not offended, I fully support the ideals of a sustainable garden.

Click to expand...

Absolutely no offense taken! And, that was nothing, I can outramble you any day, believe me haha

I can only speak for myself, not organics in general, but here's how I see it and why I don't bother with the chemical processes that undeniably are involved in plant nutrition, any way you go.

Plants have been living on this planet for longer than we have, and were quite able to fend for themselves without our controlling and regulationg their nutrition. We have taken that away from them, done a partial job, and that has created havoc, not only to the soils of our planet, but to all its inhabitants, including ourselves, as we get sicker and sicker for lack of proper nutrition.

So to change the way we grow our food, we need to change the way we think.
We need to unlearn the concept of control and force feeding the plant, and (re-)learn the concept of cooperation and being what we're supposed to be, at the top of the food chain, wardens of the Earth.
And as such, our task is to provide the best possible conditions so the plants can do their thing in ways that keep them - and us, and everyone - healthy and happy. If indeed the plant is in control, if indeed it is as scientists have been finding, that a great variety of processes are firing in the rhizosphere all the time, incredibly small but life-essential amounts of nutrients being mined on request of the plant - and remember, they have been doing this for much longer than we as humans have been wanting to farm! .....
Sheez! I can never know more or even near as much as they do!
So I needn't even bother figuring out all that chemistry (which doesn't come to me easily anyway, never has), I just need to make sure I get the gang who's got it all figured out in my soils, onto my plants, make sure those environments are survivable, and they'll take it from there.

What I'm exploring in this thread is how I must do in practice, with the means at my disposal, to get that soil food web going in the right direction.

I don't deny there is chemistry going on, I don't even deny that all the things talked about in the chemistry-based mindset are relevant to plant growth. And quite possibly, when I get a better hold on all of this, I may even dip into that side of the process too, if only to be able to communicate better with those who are still thinking in that mindset.

SSGrower said:

ignore was too strong a word, perhaps a casual forgetfulness to mention. The various methods of composting are of particular interist to me and I guess I dont really have specific questions but rather find yours and Calli's threads very stimulating to read however realize they are beyond much of my capacity. Again not wanting to offend, Super soil? whats so super? I'm more interested in getting a reusable sustainable gardening system. So I'm basically hoping to provoke the exact kind of thought you must have went through before you responded.

I'm trying to incorporate "organic" techniques, I also want to manipulate CEC. Correct me if I am wrong but I view the use of calcium chloride aka pickle crisp a non organic technique? To be organic is to be made all from what is available from the biology of things.? relating to or derived from living matter. The addition of mineral salts still organic?? Mass respect for you shluby

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actually, ignore isn't really too strong a word in my case...

I think your dilemma has alot to do with how one defines "organic".
At its most basic, organic means using stuff that came from living beings, from organisms. (as shluby already said) lol
Organic doesn't say much about the approach, the mindset, the underlying outlook onto the world, attitude, or values. So one could use a chemical approach in "organics" with "organic" "fertilizers"... is that then organic?

I dunno. What I do is learning to work with nature, and garden with a minimum effort for maximum results.
All the words for approaches that go in this direction - sustainable is another example - sheez those words have gotten corrupted by marketing and are so often just empty labels.

But yes, if you want to know anything about the inner "mechanics" of those natural processes -- Shluby knows his stuff, anything complex like that: he's your man!

ShLUbY said:

that looks like ostrich fern to me! I'd have to see the fiddleheads though. they should have a brown thin papery husk around them when they are first emerging and also be quite dense/compacted.

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Ha cool thanks! Well I've got my eye on them now, I'll post again when they start fiddling

greasemonkeymann said:

alright, so my only complaint with doing a leaf mold where they are is that it'll magically disappear..
it's weird, but humus tends to do that, almost degrades into nothing it seems like, and where they are you'll only notice the pile shrinking and you'll have issues trying to gather that humus/leaf mold.
so what i'd do if you are wanting a leaf mold pile is to get it in some sort of breathable bin, a large fabric pot works well for that, in fact when I did mine I had a smartpot full of leaves only and on top of that I put my wormbin, it worked great, but I lack attention issues sometimes, so I didn't feel like waiting for them to finish, so I then put them into my compost.
I've actually tried three times to make pure leaf mold without any green inputs, but it takes SOOO damn long I think I waited a full calendar year once.. and my leaves looked almost the same as when I bagged them.
hell I've seen a 10 day old compost that has more degraded leaves than a year of leaf mold

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Absolutely.
My mulches in these past years have been cases of disappearing organic matter too - it all gets eaten, and hardly anything stays to improve the soil structure.
Actually I wasn't expecting leaf mold to happen if I use them for that sort of deep mulch veggie bed, it was that or leaf mold. (but you can never know, these days haha)

But the way you're talking about it, the leaf mold is sounding like a not-the-thing-for-impatient-people affair (especially when they're in desperate need of tons of good compost), and that is a relevant factor to success - the methods have to match the maker too!

I've stumbled over the idea of shortcutting the process a bit by shredding the leaves, what do you think of that?
Makes total sense to me, when I look at the structure of the leaves that were exposed to the elements - crumbling and ready to fall apart - as opposed to those that got sat in a wet stack somewhere under, which still look pretty intact and robust.
But I don't have a shredder and won't have access to electricity in future. Sure I could go work for those garden maintenance guys, reverse their freaking leaf blowers, and collect leaves skyhigh, all nice and shredded... haha
But nah, not when going for the most elegantly simple solution, my holy grail

In this case, it is sounding more and more like the good thermal, leaf-based compost would be the best application of those leaves.
If I get it right, it should do just as well in the plant nursery as the diamond-studded-lapdog version leafmold is touted to be? Cheers!

calliandra said:

Absolutely.
My mulches in these past years have been cases of disappearing organic matter too - it all gets eaten, and hardly anything stays to improve the soil structure.
Actually I wasn't expecting leaf mold to happen if I use them for that sort of deep mulch veggie bed, it was that or leaf mold. (but you can never know, these days haha)

But the way you're talking about it, the leaf mold is sounding like a not-the-thing-for-impatient-people affair (especially when they're in desperate need of tons of good compost), and that is a relevant factor to success - the methods have to match the maker too!

I've stumbled over the idea of shortcutting the process a bit by shredding the leaves, what do you think of that?
Makes total sense to me, when I look at the structure of the leaves that were exposed to the elements - crumbling and ready to fall apart - as opposed to those that got sat in a wet stack somewhere under, which still look pretty intact and robust.
But I don't have a shredder and won't have access to electricity in future. Sure I could go work for those garden maintenance guys, reverse their freaking leaf blowers, and collect leaves skyhigh, all nice and shredded... haha
But nah, not when going for the most elegantly simple solution, my holy grail

In this case, it is sounding more and more like the good thermal, leaf-based compost would be the best application of those leaves.
If I get it right, it should do just as well in the plant nursery as the diamond-studded-lapdog version leafmold is touted to be? Cheers!

Click to expand...

shredding the leaves is definitely the way to go. if you don't shred them, as grease mentioned above, the top layer basically form a tarp over the rest of the pile and no water can penetrate in, which means no moisture and slow breakdown! I will forever be shredding my leaves from now on. last year I did not shred them all.... and i can already see the pile has just sat dry for 6 months even though i thought i went it down fairly well. oops!

calliandra said:

Absolutely.
My mulches in these past years have been cases of disappearing organic matter too - it all gets eaten, and hardly anything stays to improve the soil structure.
Actually I wasn't expecting leaf mold to happen if I use them for that sort of deep mulch veggie bed, it was that or leaf mold. (but you can never know, these days haha)

But the way you're talking about it, the leaf mold is sounding like a not-the-thing-for-impatient-people affair (especially when they're in desperate need of tons of good compost), and that is a relevant factor to success - the methods have to match the maker too!

I've stumbled over the idea of shortcutting the process a bit by shredding the leaves, what do you think of that?
Makes total sense to me, when I look at the structure of the leaves that were exposed to the elements - crumbling and ready to fall apart - as opposed to those that got sat in a wet stack somewhere under, which still look pretty intact and robust.
But I don't have a shredder and won't have access to electricity in future. Sure I could go work for those garden maintenance guys, reverse their freaking leaf blowers, and collect leaves skyhigh, all nice and shredded... haha
But nah, not when going for the most elegantly simple solution, my holy grail

In this case, it is sounding more and more like the good thermal, leaf-based compost would be the best application of those leaves.
If I get it right, it should do just as well in the plant nursery as the diamond-studded-lapdog version leafmold is touted to be? Cheers!

Click to expand...

oh yes!
ABSOLUTELY
shredding leaves before adding will greatly accelerate the process, if I recall correctly it also encourages more of a fungal compost pile (can't recall the reason at the moment) but shredding is the way to go
BUT...
it does need more turning, and more aeration to do it that way as the leaves get rather dense and anaerobic if shredded, one of the reason I really like my old soil to use as a "base" under the compost, as I turn the old soil naturally migrates to the top over the course of the composting.
also I think it's pretty great to have the old soil compost along with it simply because of all the microbial diversity, never can hurt..
but yea, leaf mold is for people that collected too much leaves and have the room to just "forget" about them.
Honestly i'm not totally certain if there is an advantage to having leaf mold vs a leaf based compost..

SSGrower said:

Again not wanting to offend, Super soil? whats so super? I'm more interested in getting a reusable sustainable gardening system. So I'm basically hoping to provoke the exact kind of thought you must have went through before you responded.

I'm trying to incorporate "organic" techniques, I also want to manipulate CEC. Correct me if I am wrong but I view the use of calcium chloride aka pickle crisp a non organic technique? To be organic is to be made all from what is available from the biology of things.? relating to or derived from living matter. The addition of mineral salts still organic?? Mass respect for you shluby

Click to expand...

nice to see a NON organic grower here interested in a reusable sustainable garden.
the phrase "super soil" is actually referring to the subcool technique of using layered nutrient dense soils (a highly flawed technique actually)
sadly it was "stickied" years ago and many organic growers don't know better and often try to replicate it, leading to deficiencies usually midway to flowering. Or worse.
shitty thing is many growers try that and get discouraged and go back to hydro grows.

The way we grow is much different, based more on microbiology, horticulture and botany.
one thing I could honestly tell you with the most conviction...
you will NOT go back to a chelated grow if you try a compost based grow.
Period.
Now, granted composting is more work (all subjective considering I sorta like to compost to begin with)

When you say "manipulate CEC" i'm not sure what you mean, you only can do so much.. Peat would be the best if compost isn't an option. But peat interacts with chelated salts, as does coco, that's the inherent problem with hydro grows is that you do better often times in an inert media.

what "organic techniques" are you interested in utilizing for your grow?
sadly many of them simply aren't compatible or are counterintuitive in hydro grows

greasemonkeymann said:

oh yes!
ABSOLUTELY
shredding leaves before adding will greatly accelerate the process, if I recall correctly it also encourages more of a fungal compost pile (can't recall the reason at the moment) but shredding is the way to go
BUT...
it does need more turning, and more aeration to do it that way as the leaves get rather dense and anaerobic if shredded, one of the reason I really like my old soil to use as a "base" under the compost, as I turn the old soil naturally migrates to the top over the course of the composting.
also I think it's pretty great to have the old soil compost along with it simply because of all the microbial diversity, never can hurt..
but yea, leaf mold is for people that collected too much leaves and have the room to just "forget" about them.
Honestly i'm not totally certain if there is an advantage to having leaf mold vs a leaf based compost..

Click to expand...

yeah, perhaps taking care to really let it sit for a few weeks after the thermal process finishes, apparently that's when the fungal side really gets going. Still faster than the leafmold

I can imagine that possibly, the leafmold will have a more complex fungal population - and more established one too, just by virtue of the time it is given to develop.

Possibly that is also the reason why shredded leaves could offer better conditions for fungi than whole ones. Because due to the preprocessing the fungal stage can start sooner. Just conundering here though haha

ShLUbY said:

shredding the leaves is definitely the way to go. if you don't shred them, as grease mentioned above, the top layer basically form a tarp over the rest of the pile and no water can penetrate in, which means no moisture and slow breakdown! I will forever be shredding my leaves from now on. last year I did not shred them all.... and i can already see the pile has just sat dry for 6 months even though i thought i went it down fairly well. oops!

Click to expand...

Actually, maybe it was the snow, but the leaf stack is very nicely moist pretty much to the bottom of the pile.
Buit yes, there's that tarpish layer under the weathered leaves too, and under that I have some crazy actinobacterial pockets, that yes, are pretty dry.

I see this leaves sticking to each other everywhere, but the most with the maple leaves, so maybe mixing kinds of leaves also can help when stacking leaves only...
But as soon as the leaves are mixed with other stuff? From what I saw from the soilifying prep (I mixed a ton of dry leaves into the clay garden soil) and the woodchip pile, the whole leaves really did help fluff everything up.

So leaves are like schoedingers cat - they aerate and they create anaerobic conditions.

Do you have access to Rabbit droppings? Source out local farmers. This can heat up your compost quickly.

I found a Jobe's compost starter mix with some nice bacterial inoculants. Can you get something similar? CHeck with local farmers - they are the best sources of these old natural methods.

See whether you can source some fish and kelp products from the Adriatic.

I walked on my leaf piles daily and they went from half a meter to zero over the winter. The clay soil underneath is now like a sponge!

Some random compost pics from my garden over the las four years:











Cheers,
Mo

@greasemonkeymann it is the work, time commitment and preaction requried as an average american mj grower doesent have the patientnce to wait for a compost pile or learn the complexities involved with a safe food supply let alone the tenuous balance it is in. Micro ffarms and "victory gardens" are real good places to start, if only, if only...a fraction of the effort went to this.

With regard to CEC I guess the most benificial thing seems to be able to understand how to avoid adverse issues when facing plant problems. Issues meaning nutrient overdose and impacts to other parts of a multi-species garden i.e. not just mj.

@Mohican only when the rabbit shits on my pile. I add elk and deer though.

@calliandra killed the cat. Why did you have to go looking in the box?
Perhaps it is as simple as just mainting a balanced system, for me one of the most intriguing examples of this are some of the practices summarized by the rudolf steiner agricultural lectures, and of a noteworthy aside many less tangible aspects. Structured water, lunar and stellar influences, ashing insects, seasonal timings...

Great thread @calliandra !

Thanks for sharing your experience, I'll definitely be tagging along.

Yeah I'm pulling up a chair. Good to see you have your new journal going @calliandra

I find this very interesting. I see both sides of the recent discussion. For my outdoor garden this is great info. Indoors, I'm a bit stuck in my ways, so am not going to change them after recent success.

I'll tell you something interesting about some strawberries we grow outside in the UK. I finished a grow and had four 50 litre buckets with organic soil in. So I washed out most of the nutes, then planted 9 strawberry plants in each, all in a big ring round the edge.

A month later the plants exhausted all the remaining nitrogen in the soil, so I fed them fish mix and molasses, grew them nice and healthy, then started with strawberry organic bloom feeds. Then once they were a few weeks away I watered them without feeds. We had many nice strawberries... We threw loads of worms in there too whenever the kids found them in the garden.

So, a winter went by... they looked dead, but grew back within days of the spring weather. I thought, right, I'll give them a few weeks as they look so healthy, no point feeding them. They remained completely healthy all summer and autumn too, with absolutely no feed added, No more worms. We got twice as many strawberries without feeding them, plus they were bigger and tasted much better.

There was life in that soil that created a nice balance for the plants to feed from.

I will take some photo's this week and chuck 'em up 'ere.

I'm not going to feed them anything at all again. I expect them to be amazing this year!

SSGrower said:

@greasemonkeymann it is the work, time commitment and preaction requried as an average american mj grower doesent have the patience to wait for a compost pile or learn the complexities involved with a safe food supply let alone the tenuous balance it is in. Micro ffarms and "victory gardens" are real good places to start, if only, if only...a fraction of the effort went to this.

...

Click to expand...

I think you need to try it, it's not that complicated or involved or labor intensive.
less work than hydro for sure, in my opinion
and once the compost is made it's water only, so you could do a blumat setup and literally sit back and just pay the energy bills.

I run an auto repair shop, have a dog, a personal life, and hobbies, and I find that this setup I have now is actually the easiest.

the entire time involved for a compost pile could be as little as maybe 6 to 10 hrs
some don't turn their piles, some get tumblers, the most labor intensive is assembling the pile, and if you consider learning about the biology behind it, I suppose you'd require a good 2 hrs of research, but you seem like a somewhat intellectual person, with reasonable retention skills, i'd say you can learn plenty in less than that even.

However you mentioned patience...
and you are right, the average MJ grower does lack patience, and the avg grower, well..
grows average marijuana my friend, now perhaps it's my ego speaking here, but, I never have aspired to be average.

Like most anything magical in this world, patience is required and rewarded.

Anybody can cook a steak, but only few can cook it well.

I stand by my statement, if you try it, you'll never grow another way.

Many hydro growers will also say that their harvest does Not taste anywhere near as good as a harvest grown in organic soil.

The big aha for me was when I grew a sativa in a compost pile and had only four or five leaves with bugs in a huge plant (mainlined for 16 tops).

That Mulanje Gold plant was the healthiest plant I had ever grown. I did need to supplement with PK (Mad Farmer's MOAB) to increase the resin production and flower count.

The compost pile was a simple pile of banana peels, egg shells, coffee grounds, leaves, and 20 pounds of moldy Malawi from the year before. I also added the used ProMix from the trash can grow. It was started right over the spot where the trash can grow was draining so it may have been helped by residual FloraNova Bloom.

I had animals digging up grubs in the compost pile and dug up the plant twice. I had to add a cage.

Trash can grow:








Compost pile:










Transplanted Mulanje Gold from 3 litre container to the compost pile in August:








A butternut squash seed sprouted from the pile too:
















Cheers,
Mo

Mohican said:

The big aha for me was when I grew a sativa in a compost pile and had only four or five leaves with bugs in a huge plant (mainlined for 16 tops).

That Mulanje Gold plant was the healthiest plant I had ever grown. I did need to supplement with PK (Mad Farmer's MOAB) to increase the resin production and flower count.

The compost pile was a simple pile of banana peels, egg shells, coffee grounds, leaves, and 20 pounds of moldy Malawi from the year before. I also added the used ProMix from the trash can grow. It was started right over the spot where the trash can grow was draining so it may have been helped by residual FloraNova Bloom.

I had animals digging up grubs in the compost pile and dug up the plant twice. I had to add a cage.

Trash can grow:








Compost pile:










Transplanted Mulanje Gold from 3 litre container to the compost pile in August:








A butternut squash seed sprouted from the pile too:
















Cheers,
Mo

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Love what you got goin Mo, organic weed and veggies with that lovely inground pool in the background of so many pix over the years. We certainly enjoy different pleasures while smoking here in Alaska, but damn I'm sure its nice to be soaking in that pool while burning one down...