Budding and powdery mildew

Iheartoregon

Active Member
Well, it appears I have a mildew problem . It’s not toooo bad, but I wanna try to stop it before it really gets to budding more.

for some reason my search function isn’t working when I try to type it in, so I’m sorry for posting on the topic for the 836362nd time.

if I remember correctly it’s a mixture of milk and water? And then trying to do it before a rainso that would potentially rinse the milk Off?

completely lost and all help is appreciated. I’ve included pictures below.

thank you!
 

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Iheartoregon

Active Member
I have like ph up and ph down with a tester. Should I just with that to make sure that I’ve got the ph at the right level, or does it need to be sprayed directly onto the leaves?
 

Iheartoregon

Active Member
I'd stick with RIU on the help & suggestions.
The hydro shop is just going to sell you 12 things you don't need by asking about one issue.
Yeah that’s kinda how I feel which is why I came here first. I’ll have to do some research about what is above. I’m all open to suggestions though. So trying to regulate the ph using ph up and ph down won’t resolve the issue?
 

Jjgrow420

Well-Known Member
The enzymes in the milk supposed to destroy the fungus, and change the ph as well.
I've heard mixed results. There's something about leaving the milk in the sun for an hour before using it..... Not sure exactly. I've had better luck with sulphur dust, sulphur/copper spray, Athena IPM spray (which does have citric acid and enzymes among other stuff). Air circulation is key. Removing anything that stays wet/damp. Planting next to a cedar fence generally bad news as the wood holds alot of moisture for an extended time and blocks the wind.
 

MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
Yeah that’s kinda how I feel which is why I came here first. I’ll have to do some research about what is above. I’m all open to suggestions though. So trying to regulate the ph using ph up and ph down won’t resolve the issue?
Personally use 3% H2O2 as a drenching foliar. Alternately with copper oxide base fungicide. Milk thing is smelly. Although it seems to have biological factor involved. And the PH imbalance is very short lived. The H2O2 becomes oxygenated water and can quench molds thirst. While aiding growth. The copper adheres to the leaf if a wetting agent, soap, is involved. It takes more than a one point attack. If defending you are late.
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HydroKid239

Well-Known Member
The enzymes in the milk supposed to destroy the fungus, and change the ph as well.
I've heard mixed results. There's something about leaving the milk in the sun for an hour before using it..... Not sure exactly. I've had better luck with sulphur dust, sulphur/copper spray, Athena IPM spray (which does have citric acid and enzymes among other stuff). Air circulation is key. Removing anything that stays wet/damp. Planting next to a cedar fence generally bad news as the wood holds alot of moisture for an extended time and blocks the wind.
I’m using the Athena IPM currently. Been using it for 10 days now. It spammed the minor PM I had on the lower part of my thug pug I have outside & ain’t seen a sign of it since. First 2 applications I did back to back, and then every 3rd day going forward.
Well worth the free-99 ticket lol
8A4CE77D-F467-49FA-9D39-34ECC4CC206A.jpeg45075F70-D859-4A91-AD30-DCE323238FE6.jpeg
 

Jjgrow420

Well-Known Member
I’m using the Athena IPM currently. Been using it for 10 days now. It spammed the minor PM I had on the lower part of my thug pug I have outside & ain’t seen a sign of it since. First 2 applications I did back to back, and then every 3rd day going forward.
Well worth the free-99 ticket lol
View attachment 5197816View attachment 5197817
It's actually really good stuff. But it's expensive. Smells like weird wet cinnamon hearts or something aye. I've mentioned it in the past but you know some guys like to diy and say why buy that just diy. Neways I recommend it to any of my friends who ask. It's really an all around IPM spray and great for dunks.
 
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