Bud porn..take a look!

Fair enough it may give u 3.5 oz instead of 3.2, but I fuckin guarantee the weed be a lot better, I grow for quality, not quantity.

in fact, I'll tell u how u can get even bigger yields, just keep feeding your plant right upto chop, never lower your nutes and pump as much shit into ur plants u can, trust me u'll get bigger yields.

fools.

If u want weed to taste like chlorophyll, keep ya leaves green, drying will not remove it all, your weed will not be as smooth as mine, why the fuck do people say to flush, you want to remove as much N from the plants in the last 2 weeks as they don't really need it.
i guarantee the extra weight that by keeping the leaves green, is not resin, it's gonna be in green matter, which I don't want to smoke.
In general, larger yields, equals weaker cannabis. That's why all the high THC strains are not heavy yeilders. People that say this shit obviously are only after yeild!

And on the trichome colour front, having all amber is not a bad thing, some people may want a really heavy smoke. So again shut the fuck up.
generally, and I say generally as ive had strains that never seem to show amber and are still gouchy. The peak time to harvest for most people is just after u start seeing amber, but check all buds, as some won't be so dont just chop when u see 1 amber, leave a day and check, if u notice one op going just harvest that top, I don't harvest all at once.

there u go, the extra yeild u lose from flushing properly and making the fans fade, u can make back up by harvesting over a week!

Fantastic pics Dutchmaster, cant beat a bit of old school skunk, still one of the best highs out there, with regards you your q about your yellow and brown fan leaves its my understanding that once they turn yellow or brown they serve no purpose at all, they have no chlorophyll and therefore are just blocking out the light to other healthier leaves. Even feeding nitrogen wont turn them green again, they are already dead and should be removed. I remember complaining about my own yellowing leaves on a thread and some smart ass was saying its my own fault I had yellow leaves and that anyone who had yellow leaves lacked the skills as a grower to keep them green blah blag--hot air. Well I've tried every trick in the book and still cant keep them green at the end of a grow. Pick them off, It will let light and air into the plant a bit for what little time they got left, they look great.PS great points there by TrichomeBob re the bigger the buds the less potency, found this myself.

Hahahahahaahahhahaha, I just read u use slow release nutes, omg, please no one listen to this fool! Ifu don't smoke ur product and couldn't givea shit what it's like, please feel free to listen to him.
another tip I'll give ya, about week 3-4, Crush up a load of glass and sprinkle it all over ur bud, by harvest you could have upto 50% more!

Y do people want green leaves at harvest, I get really pissed off with people spreading misinformation as u can probably tell, lol.

a faded garden at harvest is what u want, y the hell do u want to keep feeding nitrogen to ur plant when ur trying to remove it, the 2 week flush is sou can remove everything u don't want, the leaves will turn yellow and die as ur to feeding it anymore and also it's natural, what happens in autumn, that's what we're trying to mimic.
having green leaves at harvest will give u a harsher smoke, FACT.

That isn't bud porn...no offense

TrichomeBob said:

Y do people want green leaves at harvest, I get really pissed off with people spreading misinformation as u can probably tell, lol.

a faded garden at harvest is what u want, y the hell do u want to keep feeding nitrogen to ur plant when ur trying to remove it, the 2 week flush is sou can remove everything u don't want, the leaves will turn yellow and die as ur to feeding it anymore and also it's natural, what happens in autumn, that's what we're trying to mimic.
having green leaves at harvest will give u a harsher smoke, FACT.

Click to expand...

Apologies sir but you are the misinformed one. PREHARVEST FLUSHING IS DETRIMENTAL TO THE FINAL PRODUCT OUTCOME!
From an administrator at Sensi seeds

"Advanced - Flushing

A critical look at preharvest flushing

Pre harvest flushing is a controversial topic. Flushing is supposed to improve taste of the final bud by either giving only pure water, clearing solutions or extensive flushing for the last 7-14 days of flowering. While many growers claim a positive effect, others deny any positive influence or even suggest reduced yield and quality.

The theory of pre harvest flushing is to remove nutrients from the grow medium/root zone. A lack of nutrients creates a deficiency, forcing the plant to translocate and use up its internal nutrient compounds.

Nutrient fundamentals and uptake:

A good read about plant nutrition can be found here.

Until recently it was common thought that all nutrients are absorbed by plant roots as ions of mineral elements. However in newer studies more and more evidence emerged that additionally plant roots are capable of taking up complex organic molecules like amino acids directly thus bypassing the mineralization process.

The major nutrient uptake processes are:

1) Active transport mechanism into root hairs (the plant has to put energy in it, ATP driven) which is selective to some degree. This is one way the plant (being immobile) can adjust to the environment.

2) Passive transport (diffusion) through symplast to endodermis.

http://www.biol.sc.edu/courses/bio102/f99-3637.html

http://www.hort.wisc.edu/cran/Publications/2001 Proceedings/min_nutr.pdf

The claim only ‘chemical’ ferted plants need to be flushed should be taken with a grain of salt. Organic and synthetic ferted plants take up mineral ions alike, probably to a different degree though. Many influences play key roles in the taste and flavor of the final bud, like the nutrition balance and strength throughout the entire life cycle of the plant, the drying and curing process and other environmental conditions.

3) Active transport mechanism of organic molecules into root hairs via endocytosis.

http://acd.ucar.edu/~eholland/encyc6.html

Here is a simplified overview of nutrient functions:

Nitrogen is needed to build chlorophyll, amino acids, and proteins. Phosphorus is necessary for photosynthesis and other growth processes. Potassium is utilized to form sugar and starch and to activate enzymes. Magnesium also plays a role in activating enzymes and is part of chlorophyll. Calcium is used during cell growth and division and is part of the cell wall. Sulfur is part of amino acids and proteins.

Plants also require trace elements, which include boron, chlorine, copper, iron, manganese, sodium, zinc, molybdenum, nickel, cobalt, and silicon.

Copper, iron, and manganese are used in photosynthesis. Molybdenum, nickel, and cobalt are necessary for the movement of nitrogen in the plant. Boron is important for reproduction, while chlorine stimulates root growth and development. Sodium benefits the movement of water within the plant and zinc is neeeded for enzymes and used in auxins (organic plant hormones). Finally, silicon helps to build tough cell walls for better heat and drought tolerance.

http://www.sidwell.edu

You can get an idea from this how closely all the essential elements are involved in the many metabolic processes within the plant, often relying on each other.

Nutrient movement and mobility inside the plant:

Besides endocytosis, there are two major pathways inside the plant, the xylem and the phloem. When water and minerals are absorbed by plant roots, these substances must be transported up to the plant's stems and leaves for photosynthesis and further metabolic processes. This upward transport happens in the xylem. While the xylem is able to transport organic compounds, the phloem is much more adapted to do so.

The organic compounds thus originating in the leaves have to be moved throughout the plant, upwards and downwards, to where they are needed. This transport happens in the phloem. Compounds that are moving through the phloem are mostly:
Sugars as sugary saps, organic nitrogen compounds (amino acids and amides, ureides and legumes), hormones and proteins.

http://www.sirinet.net

Not all nutrient compounds are moveable within the plant.

1) N, P, K, Mg and S are considered mobile: they can move up and down the plant in both xylem and phloem.
Deficiency appears on old leaves first.

2) Ca, Fe, Zn, Mo, B, Cu, Mn are considered immobile: they only move up the plant in the xylem.
Deficiency appears on new leaves first.

http://generalhorticulture.tamu.edu

Storage organelles:

Salts and organic metabolites can be stored in storage organelles. The most important storage organelle is the vacuole, which can contribute up to 90% of the cell volume. The majority of compounds found in the vacuole are sugars, polysaccharides, organic acids and proteins though.

http://jeb.biologists.org.pdf

Translocation:

Now that the basics are explained, we can take a look at the translocation process. It should be already clear that only mobile elements can be translocated through the phloem. Immobile elements cant be translocated and are not more available to the plant for further metabolic processes and new plant growth.

Since flushing (in theory) induces a nutrient deficiency in the rootzone, the translocation process aids in the plants survival. Translocation is transportation of assimilates through the phloem from source (a net exporter of assimilate) to sink (a net importer of assimilate). Sources are mostly mature fan leaves and sinks are mostly apical meristems, lateral meristem, fruit, seed and developing leaves etc.

You can see this by the yellowing and later dying of the mature fan leaves from the second day on after flushing started. Developing leaves, bud leaves and calyxes don’t serve as sources, they are sinks. Changes in those plant parts are due to the deficient immobile elements which start to indicate on new growth first.

Unfortunately, several metabolic processes are unable to take place anymore since other elements needed are no longer available (the immobile ones). This includes processes where nitrogen and phosphorus, which have likely the most impact on taste, are involved.

For example nitrogen: usually plants use nitrogen to form plant proteins. Enzyme systems rapidly reduce nitrate-N (NO3-) to compounds that are used to build amino-nitrogen which is the basis for amino acids. Amino acids are building blocks for proteins, most of them are plant enzymes responsible for all the chemical changes important for plant growth.

Sulfur and calcium among others have major roles in production and activating of proteins, thereby decreasing nitrate within the plant. Excess nitrate within the plant may result from unbalanced nutrition rather than an excess of nitrogen.


Summary:

Preharvest flushing puts the plant(s) under serious stress. The plant has to deal with nutrient deficiencies in a very important part of its cycle. Strong changes in the amount of dissolved substances in the root-zone stress the roots, possibly to the point of direct physical damage to them. Many immobile elements are no more available for further metabolic processes. We are loosing the fan leaves and damage will show likely on new growth as well.

The grower should react in an educated way to the plant needs. Excessive, deficient or unbalanced levels should be avoided regardless the nutrient source. Nutrient levels should be gradually adjusted to the lesser needs in later flowering. Stress factors should be limited as far as possible. If that is accomplished throughout the entire life cycle, there shouldn’t be any excessive nutrient compounds in the plants tissue. It doesn’t sound likely to the author that you can correct growing errors (significant lower mobile nutrient compound levels) with preharvest flushing.

Drying and curing (when done right) on the other hand have proved (In many studies) to have a major impact on taste and flavour, by breaking down chlorophylls and converting starches into sugars. Most attributes blamed on unflushed buds may be the result of unbalanced nutrition and/or overfert and unproper drying/curing."

The dry and cure to turn out properly REQUIRES nitrogen

Fermentation

When vegetation dries, the individual cells which maintained life processes die. But marijuana can still be conditioned by means of fermentation. Fermentation is the process in which microbes and plant enzymes break down complex chemicals into simpler ones, mainly starch and sugars into alcohol and simple acids. In the process chlorophyll is destroyed, giving the material a more ripened appearance. If the fermentation is stopped early, the marijuana has a sweeter taste because of the sugars which the ferment produced.

Fermentation occurs when the moisture content of the marijuana is raised above 15 percent and the temperature is above 60 degrees. The more tightly packed the material, that faster the ferment proceeds. The rate of ferment is controlled primarily by varying the moisture content, but each batch proceeds at its own rate because of differences between plants in nitrogen content. (Nitrogen is necessary to maintain fermenting bacteria.) The process is delicate; should the ferment proceed too rapidly, the marijuana may be converted to compost. Watch the fermentation closely. After the desired colour or flavour (from a dried sample) is reached, dry the grass quickly to stop the process.

Cannabis is an annual not a perennial. When it "fades" as you term is it has entered senescence. IOW it is dying. This is well past the peak of potency. By causing deficiencies and your "fade" your are lowering yield quality and inhibiting the curing process. This info you are calling fact is cannabis forum hype and cannabis culture myth with no shred of evidence to back it up and totally Botanically unsound. But it is your grow so do as you wish but please come with truth when making declarations, not feel good practices that you fell for.

TrichomeBob said:

And on the trichome colour front, having all amber is not a bad thing, some people may want a really heavy smoke. So again shut the fuck up.
generally, and I say generally as ive had strains that never seem to show amber and are still gouchy. The peak time to harvest for most people is just after u start seeing amber, but check all buds, as some won't be so dont just chop when u see 1 amber, leave a day and check, if u notice one op going just harvest that top, I don't harvest all at once.

there u go, the extra yeild u lose from flushing properly and making the fans fade, u can make back up by harvesting over a week!

Click to expand...

Dude please go learn and come back with reality and stop parroting what you read on forums. You are incorrect again.

Yellowing in plants is like having your ARM for lunch instead of a sandwich. It all happens those last few weeks for me I flushed 3 of 5 my first real run around '95 and it was my last pre-harvest flush.

TrichomeBob said:

theplant stores up enough N, fair enough if ur 2nd week into flowering and the plant yellows, feel free to give it some N.
but He's on day 55, if he's been using nutes, he's should be flushing, so telling him to give N is wrong.

Click to expand...

Any seasoned gardener can look at those photos and tell what's wrong. They need N, period, shit-fer-brains.

If u don't know what ur tlking about u should shut the fuck up, and it tell someone something that could fuck up their smoke!

Click to expand...

Here's some candy ass kid telling me, a gardener of 40+ years, to do what? Folks aren't stupid. They know who the real growers are and who the posers are.

UB

TrichomeBob said:

If u want weed to taste like chlorophyll, keep ya leaves green, drying will not remove it all, your weed will not be as smooth as mine, why the fuck do people say to flush, ....

Click to expand...

Because they are inexperienced, naive, and stupid....like you.

Ok yeah yeah, dik brain, if u want to feed N to ya plant, a few days before chop go ahead,

oh I'm sorry I didn't know flushing was bad, the factis I use nutrients, dickhead, I wan o flush the shit outta it, if I was growing with everything in the soil already and just adding water, I wouldn't flush, but because I do use nutes, I flush.

if u think there's something wrong with that ur the one that's wrong dickhead

I'm oing back to not giving a shit,fuck pay plants if ya want. Tell ya what pour a whole bottle of grow be ya plants every day, stay real green!

The guys a week from harvest and ur telling him to give N to his plants, and I'm the one that's wrong, fair enough I ain't had 40 years of growing, maybe as u must be 50+, ur memory may be going!

am I understanding u right, are u telling him to feed his plants a few days before chop!

TrichomeBob said:

The guys a week from harvest and ur telling him to give N to his plants, and I'm the one that's wrong, fair enough I ain't had 40 years of growing, maybe as u must be 50+, ur memory may be going!

am I understanding u right, are u telling him to feed his plants a few days before chop!

Click to expand...

We are telling you with the facts I listed that everything you are saying is incorrect. You will not even read the info posted to inform you so you too can know truth, but you take no time to read but rather spout off insults like a child. You are removing all doubt as to what you know and your willingness to learn. Which is no surprise as that is how you are able to believe in the bs you spout.

TrichomeBob said:

Fair enough it may give u 3.5 oz instead of 3.2, but I fuckin guarantee the weed be a lot better, I grow for quality, not quantity.

in fact, I'll tell u how u can get even bigger yields, just keep feeding your plant right upto chop, never lower your nutes and pump as much shit into ur plants u can, trust me u'll get bigger yields.

fools.

Click to expand...

Never feed your plants up to harvest unless you want some shitty tasting medicine. Always flush your plants two to three weeks before harvest and you'll have great tasting stuff. You should never have to worry about yield when flushing like that as long as you know what your doing with the feeding before hand.

Also just went back and seen that you are contesting that flushing is good, sorry bob. Another thing is that I really have no yellowing or stress on my plants when there being flushed, Usually green and healthy when they come down.

Confucious said:

Also just went back and seen that you are contesting that flushing is good, sorry bob. Another thing is that I really have no yellowing or stress on my plants when there being flushed, Usually green and healthy when they come down.

Click to expand...

This is the thing with "flushing" it depends if you are actually "flushing" or in most cases just leaching.

Leaching is feeding plain water as you would normally just without the nutes. Causing less nutes to be drained out of the medium resulting in a slow decrease of rootzone EC which doesn't shock the plant as much as flushing.


Personally I don't flush.




J

Confucious said:

Never feed your plants up to harvest unless you want some shitty tasting medicine. Always flush your plants two to three weeks before harvest and you'll have great tasting stuff. You should never have to worry about yield when flushing like that as long as you know what your doing with the feeding before hand.

Click to expand...

wow...it just never ends...done....

Just thought I would add that I don't leach either.


J