Bud Blood / MoaB VS late-stage PK boosters?

since1991

Well-Known Member
Demand for extra phosphorus and potassium besides what base nutes provode in any stage of flowering is over suggested...over rated...and over used. At the onset of flowering and about 10 days into 12-12 most cannabis strains like a nice small bump in P if that. Plenty in the base nute but you can up it a bit. Actually if you use a Phosphoric Acid as your pH down and depending on how much u use to get pH down...should be plenty. Towards middle and late flower most plants could use a small kick in K. And magnesium. Just a touch. And preferably in tje form of potassium sulfate and magnesium sulfate. Again..should be all set if your using a Bloom base nute. Those comapnys know what they are doing if the Bloom base has upped the K and magnesium in the form of sulfate. That should he a slightly higher number as well if your using seperate Grow and Bloom bases. P/K Boosters were not really common back in the 80's and early mid 90's and we grew just fine with Grow and Bloom base nutes alone. Personally I think growers these days over use them and think they get bigger better buds with them. If you wanna really get plants going in flower you wanna use kelps high in the hormone cytokinin in early flowering. This gets em going. Slows the stretch down..makes side brances grow and earlier bud set. Using a silica with a fulvic acid can help reduce stretch as well as strong branching too. Playing with temps lights on and off is the ultimate stretch stopper though..short of using the toxic PGR's like paclobutrizol. That shit was meant for roses and other greenhouse crops that humans dont consume. Stay away from that shit.
 
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OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Demand for extra phosphorus and potassium besides what base nutes provode in any stage of flowering is over suggested...over rated...and over used. At the onset of flowering and about 10 days into 12-12 most cannabis strains like a nice small bump in P if that. Plenty in the base nute but you can up it a bit. Actually if you use a Phosphoric Acid as your pH down and depending on how much u use to get pH down...should be plenty. Towards middle and late flower most plants could use a small kick in K. And magnesium. Just a touch. And preferably in tje form of potassium sulfate and magnesium sulfate. Again..should be all set if your using a Bloom base nute. Those comapnys know what they are doing if the Bloom base has upped the K and magnesium in the form of sulfate. That should he a slightly higher number as well if your using seperate Grow and Bloom bases. P/K Boosters were not really common back in the 80's and early mid 90's and we grew just fine with Grow and Bloom base nutes alone. Personally I think growers these days over use them and think they get bigger better buds with them. If you wanna really get plants going in flower you wanna use kelps high in the hormone cytokinin in early flowering. This gets em going. Slows the stretch down..makes side brances grow and earlier bud set. Using a silica with a fulvic acid can help reduce stretch as well as strong branching too. Playing with temps lights on and off is the ultimate stretch stopper though..short of using the toxic PGR's like paclobutrizol. That shit was meant for roses and other greenhouse crops that humans dont consume. Stay away from that shit.
Good advice all around!

More does not mean better for sure. I see too many people dosing the crap out of their plants especially with CalMag. I never used it for the first ten years doing DWC and had no problems with just the base nutes and a bit of Big Bud and epsom salts. I use it now but at 1/4 of the max.

Hell of a lot easier to add more than remove the excess. Especially once it's built up to toxic levels in the leaves and they all start going crispy in mid flower. Been there, done that. :)

:peace:
 

since1991

Well-Known Member
Good advice all around!

More does not mean better for sure. I see too many people dosing the crap out of their plants especially with CalMag. I never used it for the first ten years doing DWC and had no problems with just the base nutes and a bit of Big Bud and epsom salts. I use it now but at 1/4 of the max.

Hell of a lot easier to add more than remove the excess. Especially once it's built up to toxic levels in the leaves and they all start going crispy in mid flower. Been there, done that. :)

:peace:
Other than r.o. water and/or using coco coir as a substrate..a calcium magnesium supplement is WAY overused. Hell..in alot of situations and using r.o. water..its still not needed. Dont know how the calmags got introduced to true water based hydroponic systems amd setups. With a decent hydroponic mineral nutrient...should be PLENTY of calcium..magnesium..and iron.
 

Psyphish

Well-Known Member
Never been able to feed any extras from AN. Even a small amount of Big Bud gives tip burn, unless I'm under feeding.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Never been able to feed any extras from AN. Even a small amount of Big Bud gives tip burn, unless I'm under feeding.
Then you are obviously feeding too much base nutes. I find with my very low RH I've been feeding to much myself but got that dialed in my last grow and will be feeding half what I used to and adding a bit more if the plants tell me to. All about Vapour Pressure Deficit.

VapourPressureDeficitChart.jpg
 

Psyphish

Well-Known Member
Then you are obviously feeding too much base nutes. I find with my very low RH I've been feeding to much myself but got that dialed in my last grow and will be feeding half what I used to and adding a bit more if the plants tell me to. All about Vapour Pressure Deficit.

View attachment 4066945
My plants look deficient if I feed them less, I'm already giving them half (2ml/L A & B instead of 4ml/L) of what the bottle says. I save money by not buying any of the extras though, the results are good enough for me. The chitosan in Bud Factor X does make the buds slightly frostier, but it's a pretty expensive product.
 

Skiball

Well-Known Member
I personally preach for the use of pk powders. I also feel that high k at beginning of flower causes plants to focus on stems to much. I use 2 pk's 5-50-13 (early flower 1/4 tsp per 2 gal up to 1/4 per gal after 2 weeks till week 5) and 0-50-30 (1/4 tsp week 5-7). All pk's are more or less the same so i go with growmore hula bloom and hawaiian bud at 15$ a lb.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
My plants look deficient if I feed them less, I'm already giving them half (2ml/L A & B instead of 4ml/L) of what the bottle says. I save money by not buying any of the extras though, the results are good enough for me. The chitosan in Bud Factor X does make the buds slightly frostier, but it's a pretty expensive product.
I rarely go over 2ml/L with the AN 3-part in soilless and they say 4/L from seedlings for fug sake.and no higher than a 1000ppm in DWC unless it's a hungry indica and I can toss in some CO2. I like to find the point where some of the old, lower leaves start to yellow then go about 10% higher than that. I only ever use RO water so no mineral buildup from from tap water to screw things up and never have any runoff to speak about unless I misjudged how much to add.

I just use the basic 3-part AN nutes with Rhino Skin and Big Bud with maybe 1/4 dose of any old CalMag and some Epsom salts. Got a 500ml jug of Bud Factor X for a free sample so will be experimenting with a couple side-by-side grows to see if it would be worth paying for. For $100/L it had better make gooey colas! The Big Bud is always on the menu!

If it's just the chitosan in the X that helps it can be had a lot cheaper elsewhere. Steal some empty crab and lobster shells from Red Lobster and grind them up fine. :) I do my own comparisons and Bud Ignitor and OverDrive already failed IMO and I don't use anything else out of that candy store full of options.

Have you ever heard of Insect Frass? Basically bug poop that causes a defense response in plants so they excrete more resin to protect themselves. Made in CA so it's got to be good eh! :)

Forgot all about that stuff and always meant to but going full steam ahead with DWC so it can wait. Hate ordering grow related stuff across the 49th and haven't found it for sale at any Canadian hydro stores..

:peace:
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
I personally preach for the use of pk powders. I also feel that high k at beginning of flower causes plants to focus on stems to much. I use 2 pk's 5-50-13 (early flower 1/4 tsp per 2 gal up to 1/4 per gal after 2 weeks till week 5) and 0-50-30 (1/4 tsp week 5-7). All pk's are more or less the same so i go with growmore hula bloom and hawaiian bud at 15$ a lb.
Pot wants some extra P during the stretch but more K than P after so those ratios are way out of whack for pot. Tomatoes on the other hand . . . ;)

I've been using Big Bud since it was invented. 0-15-35:10%S, 20 amino acids with both ascorbic and citric acids. Hate to flower without it.

:peace:
 

Skiball

Well-Known Member
Pot wants some extra P during the stretch but more K than P after so those ratios are way out of whack for pot. Tomatoes on the other hand . . . ;)

I've been using Big Bud since it was invented. 0-15-35:10%S, 20 amino acids with both ascorbic and citric acids. Hate to flower without it.

:peace:
Thanks for the advice but that's what i've learned from my own experiences. Never been a AN fan. I feel FF moab GM Groteck etc got it right. Oh but i forgot those are all 4 tomatoes right? You know what's really outa wack though, how much you pay for AN.
 
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Damondacks

New Member
Seasoned growers don't give high PK at the start or at any other time during a plants life, its been proven that cannabis needs for P is way overplayed by shyster companies.
The reason high P works so well for so many ppl is because the cation sites in most grow media trap 80% of your P input, making it unavailable to the plant!
If you use some kind of myco/microbe innoculant or a fert that includes it, then your needs for P go way down since the microbes and myco will release the P that’s locked in the grow media!
 

Damondacks

New Member
And that's what the old Big Bud was, besides it works 100% the same, if you think other wise I got a nice bridge with a big bud container under it for really cheap.
Most likely Big Bud is hiding something type of PGR Giberellin blocker IN IT since most of them are only needed in concentrations as low as 3-5 ppm to be effective, and there’s many unknown analogue versions, it would be hard to detect!
 
I prefer to keep my numbers low, growing in coco , any strain I've worked with over the past 12 years ( I like to pheno hint then ride 3 or 4 strains out for 8 or 12 months at a time, any of them have never wanted a full nute companies recommended dose, but I will say since I've moved into the AN coco line I've never found a more we'll adjusted line. I run sensi coco grow ab. Coco connoisseur bloom ab. B52 other than during transition, I use emerald harvest sturdy stalk silica addative up until day 24 bloom, I run hygrozymes hysheild chitosan addative their whole lifespan after day 28 veg. And I run snow storm ultra the same way at a light dose until day 38 bloom at which point I increase dosage, I run half strength bud ignitor for 5 days before flip and then 5 days after flip. I run big bud coco after that for around 30 days straight. Then I finish up with overdrive, I rarely ever harvest with more than a slightly discolored leaf tip and the genetics ensure my bud is top rank, I just manage their development and make sure they have any advantage they can! But to be more to the point , I love big bud ( coco version) run at half strength it does exactly what I want it to!PXL_20211213_174337567.jpg
 

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Herb & Suds

Well-Known Member
I prefer to keep my numbers low, growing in coco , any strain I've worked with over the past 12 years ( I like to pheno hint then ride 3 or 4 strains out for 8 or 12 months at a time, any of them have never wanted a full nute companies recommended dose, but I will say since I've moved into the AN coco line I've never found a more we'll adjusted line. I run sensi coco grow ab. Coco connoisseur bloom ab. B52 other than during transition, I use emerald harvest sturdy stalk silica addative up until day 24 bloom, I run hygrozymes hysheild chitosan addative their whole lifespan after day 28 veg. And I run snow storm ultra the same way at a light dose until day 38 bloom at which point I increase dosage, I run half strength bud ignitor for 5 days before flip and then 5 days after flip. I run big bud coco after that for around 30 days straight. Then I finish up with overdrive, I rarely ever harvest with more than a slightly discolored leaf tip and the genetics ensure my bud is top rank, I just manage their development and make sure they have any advantage they can! But to be more to the point , I love big bud ( coco version) run at half strength it does exactly what I want it to!View attachment 5054400
So you’re a big PGR fan ?
 
I'm new with you guys so I'm not trying to step on toes here but I've been working with those two for a minute and though Iay be far from an organic grower , I've never knowingly put harmful pgrs or illegal chemicals in my products
 
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