Brown roots/root rot? After adding great white.

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whitehammer15

New Member
Hey everyone, this is my first time running a beneficial res. Everything’s seemed to be going good for the first couple of weeks. But now I think I may have root rot. I’m using House and Garden nutrients and Great White Mycorrhizae.
I’ve been adding half a scoop to 4 gallons when I change the res. 4 days ago I flushed with h202 to get rid of the brown roots and it worked. But I rinsed out the res and refilled it with great white. Now the roots are worse.
My water temps range between 64-68
Please help, I though Great White was meant to prevent root rot.
 

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namusae

Member
They look fine to me? I don't think the browned roots can be reverted back to white healthy looking roots.. they are dead.. New roots will replace them. But here they look fine maybe stained
 
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rkymtnman

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
whitehammer15 said:
Hey everyone, this is my first time running a beneficial res. Everything’s seemed to be going good for the first couple of weeks. But now I think I may have root rot. I’m using House and Garden nutrients and Great White Mycorrhizae.
I’ve been adding half a scoop to 4 gallons when I change the res. 4 days ago I flushed with h202 to get rid of the brown roots and it worked. But I rinsed out the res and refilled it with great white. Now the roots are worse.
My water temps range between 64-68
Please help, I though Great White was meant to prevent root rot.
Click to expand...
i've never used Mycos but I have used something similar to Hydroguard.

some people have trouble running bennies. some people have troulbe running sterile.

since peroxide is working, keep using it. figure it out later.
 
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plebschmo

Active Member
Hey mate, that is likely not root rot.

I've had exactly the same looking roots as you when using House and Garden nutrients. It's the additives "roots accelerator" and "amino [something]" that are dying the roots brown. You'll know which ones I'm talking about because they're black as the night when they're in the bottle.

I would highly recommend just using A + B and maybe a bit of cal-mag if your plants need it. If you're really keen try introducing those other additives in later when the plant is more developed. Personally I dont bother... I think some of those additives are really only meant to be used in soil or coco even though they sell them in the hydro pack.

I use great white and mammothp as bennies with H&G Aqua flakes, dont use any sterilization compounds and my roots are pearly white :)

Hope this help!
 
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whitehammer15

New Member
plebschmo said:
Hey mate, that is likely not root rot.

I've had exactly the same looking roots as you when using House and Garden nutrients. It's the additives "roots accelerator" and "amino [something]" that are dying the roots brown. You'll know which ones I'm talking about because they're black as the night when they're in the bottle.

I would highly recommend just using A + B and maybe a bit of cal-mag if your plants need it. If you're really keen try introducing those other additives in later when the plant is more developed. Personally I dont bother... I think some of those additives are really only meant to be used in soil or coco even though they sell them in the hydro pack.

I use great white and mammothp as bennies with H&G Aqua flakes, dont use any sterilization compounds and my roots are pearly white :)

Hope this help!
Click to expand...
Yeah I don’t think it’s root rot either. Starting to think I might of put to much great white in. I’ve only been using Aqua Flakes A + B, Because I’ve heard the Roots Accelerator make your roots go bad.
But I can see heaps of new white roots growing, so I’m hoping this a turning point.
How often do you change your res and what are your water temps at?
Thanks for your help mate.
 
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goofy81

Well-Known Member
Is called root staining, some additives can cause this. I wouldn't be worried unless it's slimy and stinky.
If you don't like it, you can always try find alternatives of the product to use. Sometimes that can be a bit difficult too though.
 
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plebschmo

Active Member
whitehammer15 said:
But I can see heaps of new white roots growing, so I’m hoping this a turning point.
Click to expand...
You should be fine in that case, make sure to keep your EC pretty low, around 0.6 at that stage of growth increasing to about 1.0 or 1.2 towards the end of veg. Those rust spots on the bottom leaves are something I get using H&G too but I'm pretty sure its because I get greedy and jack up the EC too early.

What EC are u running?

Also, I think u want about a 1/4 scoop of GW for 4 gallons from memory.

whitehammer15 said:
How often do you change your res and what are your water temps at?
Click to expand...
I follow current culture for res temps: https://cch2o.com/nutrient-calculators/recirculating-hydro-nutrient-calculator/

Starting at 72f then moving down to 68. Then again Current culture's calculator is for a sterile system so I could probably run higher res temps considering I run bennies, but these ones work fine.

I only change the res in veg maybe once ever 2 - 3 weeks and once a week in flower. I its a good idea to smell your res - if it smells like nothing or fresh soil you're probably fine, if its got a bit of funk to it then its time to change.

I'm trying a new method this run where im going to try and keep the res full (fill it with some water and nutes every time EC drops) so I may decrease the water changes in flower depending on how this goes.
 
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whitehammer15

New Member
plebschmo said:
You should be fine in that case, make sure to keep your EC pretty low, around 0.6 at that stage of growth increasing to about 1.0 or 1.2 towards the end of veg. Those rust spots on the bottom leaves are something I get using H&G too but I'm pretty sure its because I get greedy and jack up the EC too early.

What EC are u running?

Also, I think u want about a 1/4 scoop of GW for 4 gallons from memory.



I follow current culture for res temps: https://cch2o.com/nutrient-calculators/recirculating-hydro-nutrient-calculator/

Starting at 72f then moving down to 68. Then again Current culture's calculator is for a sterile system so I could probably run higher res temps considering I run bennies, but these ones work fine.

I only change the res in veg maybe once ever 2 - 3 weeks and once a week in flower. I its a good idea to smell your res - if it smells like nothing or fresh soil you're probably fine, if its got a bit of funk to it then its time to change.

I'm trying a new method this run where im going to try and keep the res full (fill it with some water and nutes every time EC drops) so I may decrease the water changes in flower depending on how this goes.
Click to expand...
plebschmo said:
You should be fine in that case, make sure to keep your EC pretty low, around 0.6 at that stage of growth increasing to about 1.0 or 1.2 towards the end of veg. Those rust spots on the bottom leaves are something I get using H&G too but I'm pretty sure its because I get greedy and jack up the EC too early.

What EC are u running?

Also, I think u want about a 1/4 scoop of GW for 4 gallons from memory.



I follow current culture for res temps: https://cch2o.com/nutrient-calculators/recirculating-hydro-nutrient-calculator/

Starting at 72f then moving down to 68. Then again Current culture's calculator is for a sterile system so I could probably run higher res temps considering I run bennies, but these ones work fine.

I only change the res in veg maybe once ever 2 - 3 weeks and once a week in flower. I its a good idea to smell your res - if it smells like nothing or fresh soil you're probably fine, if its got a bit of funk to it then its time to change.

I'm trying a new method this run where im going to try and keep the res full (fill it with some water and nutes every time EC drops) so I may decrease the water changes in flower depending on how this goes.
Click to expand...
plebschmo said:
You should be fine in that case, make sure to keep your EC pretty low, around 0.6 at that stage of growth increasing to about 1.0 or 1.2 towards the end of veg. Those rust spots on the bottom leaves are something I get using H&G too but I'm pretty sure its because I get greedy and jack up the EC too early.

What EC are u running?

Also, I think u want about a 1/4 scoop of GW for 4 gallons from memory.



I follow current culture for res temps: https://cch2o.com/nutrient-calculators/recirculating-hydro-nutrient-calculator/

Starting at 72f then moving down to 68. Then again Current culture's calculator is for a sterile system so I could probably run higher res temps considering I run bennies, but these ones work fine.

I only change the res in veg maybe once ever 2 - 3 weeks and once a week in flower. I its a good idea to smell your res - if it smells like nothing or fresh soil you're probably fine, if its got a bit of funk to it then its time to change.

I'm trying a new method this run where im going to try and keep the res full (fill it with some water and nutes every time EC drops) so I may decrease the water changes in flower depending on how this goes.
Click to expand...
plebschmo said:
You should be fine in that case, make sure to keep your EC pretty low, around 0.6 at that stage of growth increasing to about 1.0 or 1.2 towards the end of veg. Those rust spots on the bottom leaves are something I get using H&G too but I'm pretty sure its because I get greedy and jack up the EC too early.

What EC are u running?

Also, I think u want about a 1/4 scoop of GW for 4 gallons from memory.



I follow current culture for res temps: https://cch2o.com/nutrient-calculators/recirculating-hydro-nutrient-calculator/

Starting at 72f then moving down to 68. Then again Current culture's calculator is for a sterile system so I could probably run higher res temps considering I run bennies, but these ones work fine.

I only change the res in veg maybe once ever 2 - 3 weeks and once a week in flower. I its a good idea to smell your res - if it smells like nothing or fresh soil you're probably fine, if its got a bit of funk to it then its time to change.

I'm trying a new method this run where im going to try and keep the res full (fill it with some water and nutes every time EC drops) so I may decrease the water changes in flower depending on how this goes.
Click to expand...
I’ve had the EC at 1.4-1.6, is that to high? I was just following the H&G feed schedule.
I’m going to go get some of that Mammoth P tomorrow, had a read of it and looks pretty good.

I changed the res about a week ago but I’ve put way to much Great White in and maybe to much Aqua Flakes.
Do you think I should do a res change tomorrow, lower my EC and add a quarter scoop of Great White and the recommended amount of Mammoth P?
Or should I just add Mammoth P and leave it how it is?
 
P

plebschmo

Active Member
whitehammer15 said:
I’ve had the EC at 1.4-1.6, is that to high? I was just following the H&G feed schedule.
I’m going to go get some of that Mammoth P tomorrow, had a read of it and looks pretty good.

I changed the res about a week ago but I’ve put way to much Great White in and maybe to much Aqua Flakes.
Do you think I should do a res change tomorrow, lower my EC and add a quarter scoop of Great White and the recommended amount of Mammoth P?
Or should I just add Mammoth P and leave it how it is?
Click to expand...
Yep 1.4 - 1.6 EC is way way way to high, bring it down to like .6. When u notice the drop to .4 bring it up to .7 or .8 etc. Its likely that your roots are dyed from too much of just the A + B.

Ideally you want your EC to remain stable and the plants to drink lots of water (they wont yet be drinking much water at that stage of growth). However, because over feeding is a fair bit worse for plants than under feeding (and its easier to fix low nutes vs high nutes) its a good idea to have your EC dropping a bit then topping it up. E.g. I'm towards the end of veg atm and last I check my EC had dropped from 1.0 to 0.7 so I added nutes to get it to 1.1 ...

But yeh, drain your res and fill it with about 0.6 EC and see how you go for there. It may even be a good idea to just run them for like 12 hours to 1 day with plain water too considering how high the EC is.
 
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plebschmo

Active Member
Also just some comments on your setup:

I have a feeling that using a towel to block the light like you have isn't the best idea. I would be paranoid that it is fucking with the micro humidity around the leaves etc as towels are very absorbent. One way to get your humidity up is to hang a towel on the wall of a grow tent and have the end of it dropping into a bucket of water. The towel will wick that water up, which will then evaporate into the air increasing humidity. If you have a dry towel under your plant I assume it may do the opposite and reduce humidity - something you probably dont want at that early stage of growth.

Also, assuming that is just a florescent you're gonna need another light or you're just not going to see much growth. I would be putting those plants under my main lights at that stage of growth.
 
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