Broad Mites Tx or start over?

bandshark

bandshark

Member
Hi Everyone,

I have been lurking around here for awhile gaining as much knowledge as I could before attempting my own grow. I finally got everything sorted equipment wise and planted some Dynasty beans. Unfortunately they began to have twisted, droopy leaves, etc.

I first considered that I was possibly over watering, but then I used a microscope, which revealed the polka dot like eggs on the leaves.

Cob DIY led
5x5 gorilla tent
450 cfm filtered exhaust
BAS/Clackamas coots soil
Temp 74-78
Rh 55%-65%

The only IPM up until now has been minimal at best.
(The small amount of neem cake in the soil, and an occasional compost tea)


My questions are:

Verify that this is Broad Mites?

Is it worth treating or should I just re plant?

If I treat the plants, what should I treat them with? Nuke Em?

If I sterilize/disinfect room and start over whats the best option for this purpose?

Also, besides selling the house and moving, what can I do differently to avoid this next round?

.
I'm guessing the ivy all over the property is filled with them. I already thought my asepsis was adequate (change clothes, shower etc, dedicated sealed room).


Thanks in Advance

2017-10-18 21.58.30.jpg Screenshot_20171018-220952.png Screenshot_20171018-221032.png
 
bandshark said:
Hi Everyone,

I have been lurking around here for awhile gaining as much knowledge as I could before attempting my own grow. I finally got everything sorted equipment wise and planted some Dynasty beans. Unfortunately they began to have twisted, droopy leaves, etc.

I first considered that I was possibly over watering, but then I used a microscope, which revealed the polka dot like eggs on the leaves.

Cob DIY led
5x5 gorilla tent
450 cfm filtered exhaust
BAS/Clackamas coots soil
Temp 74-78
Rh 55%-65%

The only IPM up until now has been minimal at best.
(The small amount of neem cake in the soil, and an occasional compost tea)


My questions are:

Verify that this is Broad Mites?

Is it worth treating or should I just re plant?

If I treat the plants, what should I treat them with? Nuke Em?

If I sterilize/disinfect room and start over whats the best option for this purpose?

Also, besides selling the house and moving, what can I do differently to avoid this next round?

.
I'm guessing the ivy all over the property is filled with them. I already thought my asepsis was adequate (change clothes, shower etc, dedicated sealed room).


Thanks in Advance

View attachment 4028976 View attachment 4028977 View attachment 4028978
Click to expand...
Mites will be on the undersides of the leaves.
They don't look like bugs to me. But if I'm wrong, you can use whatever you want in veg. If your room is sealed, hot shot no pest strips will wipe them out. They release vapor that gets in every nook & cranny. Don't use them in flower.
Those plants are so small, you could cover the top & just dunk em in neem oil solution.
 
Thanks Chunky, I will look into the Hot shot strips. The tent is not sealed, but is in a sealed/environmentally controlled room. I'm not certain about the mites, since Broad mites are hard to see. It is my understanding that they primarily live inside the leaves, and lay polka dot looking eggs on top (I can't post links yet)

Dunking also seems like a great option.
 
Thanks Dr Who.

I will look into the Forbid 4F to eradicate the mites on the property.

I'm fairly certain it is Broad mites. I can't see any mites, but there are numerous small polka dot spheres that I assume are eggs.

I imagine the Ivy in the back garden is infested with them. The dogs have probably brought them all through the house as well.
I don't see any way to avoid this again, even though the grow room is sealed, and I only enter it after changing clothes/showering.
I'm guessing I need to look into treating the yard and house of pests before attempting again?

What I use to think of as an advantage is now looking to be a challenge. Our local weather is in the 70's with an avg 50% Rh almost every day, so I don't see the environment killing them off for me. I'm thinking about heat treating the house,spray the grow tent and room with nuke 'em, remove the ivy growing outside, spray the outdoors with forbid and PFR 97 fungus, release predatory mites on property after spray tx decays.Then do a rain dance during a full moon while naked.

I appreciate the suggestions.
 
bandshark said:
Thanks Dr Who.

I will look into the Forbid 4F to eradicate the mites on the property.

I'm fairly certain it is Broad mites. I can't see any mites, but there are numerous small polka dot spheres that I assume are eggs.

I imagine the Ivy in the back garden is infested with them. The dogs have probably brought them all through the house as well.
I don't see any way to avoid this again, even though the grow room is sealed, and I only enter it after changing clothes/showering.
I'm guessing I need to look into treating the yard and house of pests before attempting again?

What I use to think of as an advantage is now looking to be a challenge. Our local weather is in the 70's with an avg 50% Rh almost every day, so I don't see the environment killing them off for me. I'm thinking about heat treating the house,spray the grow tent and room with nuke 'em, remove the ivy growing outside, spray the outdoors with forbid and PFR 97 fungus, release predatory mites on property after spray tx decays.Then do a rain dance during a full moon while naked.

I appreciate the suggestions.
Click to expand...

Do what Dr. Who said without delay - try to get them to ship ASAP. Get a cheap microscope to check under the leaves.

While waiting for Forbid 4F, you can go to the drug store and get Bronners Peppermint soap (more oil than soap and has Peppermint). Go to Wal Mart and get 1 oz of Lavender Essential oil for $4.87. Maybe some white Ivory Dish soap for about $2.67 at Wal Mart or Fels Naptha Soap on the detergent aisle for about $1.00.

A teaspoon and a half of Bronners, 7 drops of lavender essential oil and a few drops of Ivory Dish soap or Fels Naptha in a gallon of water.
Maybe add a few drops of isopropal alcohol to your solution.

The guys who make Big Time Exterminator suggest spraying with cold water like ice water.

Shake well when spraying and try to spray under the leaves and the tops. Not in direct sunlight or under bright lights. Spray the areas you walk around in the room too,.

This will help while you wait for Forbid. Do not delay.

http://www.hansenfamilyfarm.com/blog/make-your-own-non-toxic-insecticidal-spray-soap
 
I was having the Exact same problem a couple of months ago. I JUST got a package in a couple of days ago for to treat broadmites / russets mites / thripes and fungus gnats...
20171018_124248.jpg


Cucumeries / Swirskiis / and / Califonicus...

Californicus perform well in high temperatures. 85 and above.

Cucumeries in temps 64 -78 ..

Swirskiis are about 54-84 temps.

IMG_20171018_122026_976.jpg
20171019_023849.jpg
 
Lightgreen2k said:
You want a more natural way of predator control then spraying your plants with MAN MADE PESTICIDES YUCK.

But thats just me wanting to be with all natural to the core. BUT hey what do I know. I would 100% not use forbid while we have natural methods.

http://www.evergreengrowers.com/broad-mite-control.html
Click to expand...
Neem oil is "natural".
Insecticidal soap is "natural". (potassium salts of fatty acids)
Spinosad is "natural".
 
Lightgreen2k said:
You want a more natural way of predator control then spraying your plants with MAN MADE PESTICIDES YUCK.

But thats just me wanting to be with all natural to the core. BUT hey what do I know. I would 100% not use forbid while we have natural methods.

http://www.evergreengrowers.com/broad-mite-control.html
Click to expand...

Looks like you waited too long bro. You can beat them back but you may have some stunted growth.
Swirskis and the rest are very good but they are not cheap. Predator mites can sometime be hit or miss. They can have narfrow temp and humidity ranges.

Dr. Who knows the make up of Forbid 4F which I think is basically an acid.

You can use a variety of oils that are natural to beat spider mites and probably Russet mites. I know because I have. I can make up a cocktail of Non-GMO canola oil, a few drops of Neem oil, Fels Naptha soap, Bronners Peppermint liquid soap (mainly oils) plus some Rosemary oil and maybe Lavendar oil. A few drops of each.

Alternatively, a 4 to 1 ratio of Cedarwood oil and Lemon grass oil with water. Or Cinnamon Oil or Lavendar which will nuke the mites and eggs.
https://plantcaretoday.com/get-rid-spider-mites.html

Some of the newer sprays like Nuke Em and Big Time Exterminator use basically yeast and citric acid.

Colorado Rec supposedly has only approved BotaninGard MAXX which is pyrethin and a special fungus with spores that attaches to the bugs. It works for spider mites but not sure about Russets.
https://www.bioworksinc.com/products/botanigard-maxx/botanigard-MAXX-label.pdf

A possible cheaper solution to Swirskis is Green Lace Wings
https://hydro-gardens.com/product/lacewing-eggs-1000-5p335a/

The eggs are cheap but take 3 days to become larvae. You can buy the larvae for a little more. The larvae will supposedly eat everything including each other if they run out of food.
 
Last edited:
Colo MMJ said:
Looks like you waited too long bro. You can beat them back but you may have some stunted growth.
Swirskis and the rest are very good but they are not cheap. Predator mites can sometime be hit or miss. They can have narfrow temp and humidity ranges.

Dr. Who knows the make up of Forbid 4F which I think is basically an acid.

You can use a variety of oils that are natural to beat spider mites and probably Russet mites. I know because I have. I can make up a cocktail of Non-GMO canola oil, a few drops of Neem oil, Fels Naptha soap, Bronners Peppermint liquid soap (mainly oils) plus some Rosemary oil and maybe Lavendar oil. A few drops of each.

Alternatively, a 4 to 1 ratio of Cedarwood oil and Lemon grass oil with water. Or Cinnamon Oil or Lavendar which will nuke the mites and eggs.
https://plantcaretoday.com/get-rid-spider-mites.html

Some of the newer sprays like Nuke Em and Big Time Exterminator use basically yeast and citric acid.

Colorado Rec supposedly has only approved BotaninGard MAXX which is pyrethin and a special fungus with spores that attaches to the bugs. It works for spider mites but not sure about Russets.
https://www.bioworksinc.com/products/botanigard-maxx/botanigard-MAXX-label.pdf

A possible cheaper solution to Swirskis is Green Lace Wings
https://hydro-gardens.com/product/lacewing-eggs-1000-5p335a/

The eggs are cheap but take 3 days to become larvae. You can buy the larvae for a little more. The larvae will supposedly eat everything including each other if they run out of food.
Click to expand...
Please dont comment on what you may not know.

THESE ARE 40 days from seed.
1.5 gallon Sqaure pot.

The cucumeries has just been applied as a preventative.

The plants are about im going to be transplanting these into a biggger pot.

Heck the plants have not even reached maturity or internoding as of yet.

:bigjoint::lol:..

Side not quote "
@colommj
You can use a variety of oils that are natural to beat spider mites and probably Russet mites. I know because I have. I can make up a cocktail of Non-GMO canola oil, a few drops of Neem oil, Fels Naptha soap, Bronners Peppermint liquid soap (mainly oils) plus some Rosemary oil and maybe Lavendar oil. A few drops of each.

Alternatively, a 4 to 1 ratio of Cedarwood oil and Lemon grass oil with water. Or Cinnamon Oil or Lavendar which will nuke the mites and eggs."..

Dragon fly Earth medicine makes a great folliar with what you have listed and more. I use that as a part of my IPM
 
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Lightgreen2k said:
We are not allowed to spray our plants with forbid or eagle 20 when it comes to Licensed producers in canada.

Their is a list of what can be used in IPM treatmeant and what cannot be used for public consumption.
Click to expand...

Eagle 20 is pretty awful. I know BotaniGard MAXX which is slight amount of pyrethian and those fungus spores is approved in Colorado for Rec MMJ. I am not sure if it can be used in flower.

What is approved for mites and PM in Canada?

I recall from one of the Canada threads on RIU that there was a scandal where one of the big growers or dispensaries was spraying all sorts of nasty garbage on plants, getting it approved and exposing people in Can to some toxic weed. One Canadian poster was on a real crusade against those phony bastards. It would be funny except people were probably exposed to very bad stuff.

I recall watching some TV show about the famous mtn climbers of El Captain at Yosemite in Calif. In the mid 1970s (?) so hard core fitness hippy dudes were breaking all the mtn climbing rules. Up in the mtns, a CIA plane filled with pot crashed into a cold lake in a remote area. The idiots were smoking and selling weed soaked in aviation gasoline. I think the dead pilots were still inside the plane. The crap the Mexican cartels, growing in Calif in the woods illegally, spray on weed is supposedly horrific.
 
Thanks for all the encouragement and advice. We just got back from dinner and a movie.

I bought some nuke 'em at the local hydro shop, and a forced air heater from home depot.

The plan is to water the plants with 325 mg aspirin per gallon of water to help mitigate the broad mite toxins.

Then put them in the bathtub (only place I can think of to isolate) while I heat the room and equipment for an hour to a temperature of 120 degrees Fahrenheit. I will put the plants in the room for around 15 minutes once the room temp is stable, exposing them to high heat for a short time.

I then plan to dunk the poor little plants in nuke em 3 times using ice water (thx Colo), allowing the plants to dry in between applications; repeating every three days.


I'll then spray the outside with forbid 4f, and release mass amounts of predatory mites beginning 30 days after the forbid 4f application, and repeat quarterly.

Im pretty much going to write this batch of beans off as a learning experience. I'll see if the mites can be treated/eliminated, and what consequences the plants genetics suffer from the infection if any, etc.

In the meantime I'm starting another room upstairs. Painting, tiling, and disinfecting the new room tomorrow.

Once this room is setup, I'll decide if the mites are eradicated in the original room, and scorch it if not ( rip out the flooring, bleach, and seal it for 4 months with hotshot strips).
 
Colo MMJ said:
Eagle 20 is pretty awful. I know BotaniGard MAXX which is slight amount of pyrethian and those fungus spores is approved in Colorado for Rec MMJ. I am not sure if it can be used in flower.

What is approved for mites and PM in Canada?

I recall from one of the Canada threads on RIU that there was a scandal where one of the big growers or dispensaries was spraying all sorts of nasty garbage on plants, getting it approved and exposing people in Can to some toxic weed. One Canadian poster was on a real crusade against those phony bastards. It would be funny except people were probably exposed to very bad stuff.

I recall watching some TV show about the famous mtn climbers of El Captain at Yosemite in Calif. In the mid 1970s (?) so hard core fitness hippy dudes were breaking all the mtn climbing rules. Up in the mtns, a CIA plane filled with pot crashed into a cold lake in a remote area. The idiots were smoking and selling weed soaked in aviation gasoline. I think the dead pilots were still inside the plane. The crap the Mexican cartels, growing in Calif in the woods illegally, spray on weed is supposedly horrific.
Click to expand...

There is a list of things that can be used a liscensed producer of cannabis. OFF hand i don't have it; but a google search can bring it up.

Botaniguard and Cease and a few other products can be used.

Cease is more of a biofungicidal..
 
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