Bridgelux eb strips Gen 3

Frank Nitty

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
welight said:
it is, right, nice spectrum, this is a veg version, but has a nice full flatish red profile
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It looks like the light from a hps,like when its on... I'd love to see how those work without having to run a huge light!!! How many would one need to get the effects of a hps??? Or are they just for the spectrum??? Or is that what you just said??? Im lifted right now...:bigjoint::bigjoint::bigjoint::bigjoint:
 
welight

welight

Well-Known Member
CannaBruh said:
you guys are using the bridgelux eb strips gen 3 or?
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so this is an interesting question. We are a Bridgelux distributor but I cant get my head into the EB game. If you want for cheap. I see it as a solution for a quarter mile, but not for staying, and maybe thats ok, if you dont invest much you can afford to get onto the next big thing. Im no fan of FR4(Fibreglass boards) for LED, its an insulator not a conductor of heat, even though people have no thermal problem, so Im told. The Gen3 like Gen 2 are using 2835 leds, much like normal flexible led ribbon, these leds are cheap, I actually prefer the gen 1 with the 3030 leds. Its clear these two things say one thing build them as cheap as possible. the issue with 2835 is I dont see them making the 220LPW that Sammy and Nichia in 3030 make. and I expect in the next 4-5 weeks to see 230LPW 3030 leds. If I was going to build a 2835 strip I would use the Cree 2835 which is a better chip. I think greengenes is moving to the Cree 5630 chip, also a good option. The key thing with strips is they dont penetrate like COB, but they spread the canopy beautifully so why buy an 560mm EB that does 2200 lumens at 700ma for $9.5 when you can get a 5000 lumen strip for around 50c-$1 more at the same efficacy with twice the penetration power
mic drop Im out
Cheers
Mark
 
welight

welight

Well-Known Member
Frank Nitty said:
It looks like the light from a hps,like when its on... I'd love to see how those work without having to run a huge light!!! How many would one need to get the effects of a hps??? Or are they just for the spectrum??? Or is that what you just said??? Im lifted right now...:bigjoint::bigjoint::bigjoint::bigjoint:
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Hi Frank
Its a good question. I should test them and see, but the green and amber leds on there do give an HPS feel
Cheers
Mark
 
klx

klx

Well-Known Member
welight said:
so this is an interesting question. We are a Bridgelux distributor but I cant get my head into the EB game. If you want for cheap. I see it as a solution for a quarter mile, but not for staying, and maybe thats ok, if you dont invest much you can afford to get onto the next big thing. Im no fan of FR4(Fibreglass boards) for LED, its an insulator not a conductor of heat, even though people have no thermal problem, so Im told. The Gen3 like Gen 2 are using 2835 leds, much like normal flexible led ribbon, these leds are cheap, I actually prefer the gen 1 with the 3030 leds. Its clear these two things say one thing build them as cheap as possible. the issue with 2835 is I dont see them making the 220LPW that Sammy and Nichia in 3030 make. and I expect in the next 4-5 weeks to see 230LPW 3030 leds. If I was going to build a 2835 strip I would use the Cree 2835 which is a better chip. I think greengenes is moving to the Cree 5630 chip, also a good option. The key thing with strips is they dont penetrate like COB, but they spread the canopy beautifully so why buy an 560mm EB that does 2200 lumens at 700ma for $9.5 when you can get a 5000 lumen strip for around 50c-$1 more at the same efficacy with twice the penetration power
mic drop Im out
Cheers
Mark
Click to expand...
An interesting question and an interesting reply. Food for thought. I have some Gen 1 EB strips and they work well. Which strips are you referring to when you say 5000 L strips for $1 more - your strips? I have some of them too in the mix.
 
10WeekFlushBro

10WeekFlushBro

Well-Known Member
Heatsinks for those strips are not available everywhere in the world at a good price.. the bridgelux are
 
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welight

welight

Well-Known Member
klx said:
An interesting question and an interesting reply. Food for thought. I have some Gen 1 EB strips and they work well. Which strips are you referring to when you say 5000 L strips for $1 more - your strips? I have some of them too in the mix.
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Yes so example I used is the BXEB-L0590U-35E1500-C-C3, Digikey one off is AUD14.58,(USD9.58) were at around $15.07(USD10.36) ea. the Digi example are the Eb Slim line so not sure on the other normal width strip as none are listed, but I dont imagine they will be cheaper, our latest rev is as standard, MCPCB(Metal Core Boards), Metal Solder less connectors. Image below is one Cree Strip and one LM301B strip
Im not dissing on the EB there is nothing wrong with them, Im just pointing out consider what you really get for your hard earned
 
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Chip Green

Chip Green

Well-Known Member
welight said:
If you want for cheap. I see it as a solution for a quarter mile, but not for staying, and maybe thats ok, if you dont invest much you can afford to get onto the next big thing.
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I agree with this logic, but have a slightly different outlook.

After nearly three years of continuous use in perpetual garden setups, every single one of my GEN 1 EB strips is still in operation. I have still yet to see a single strip fail. I don't see any reason why, in my position an upgrade is necessary. The gains would be negligible.
Now from your perspective, materials and form factor are of much higher priority. You undoubtedly have a much deeper understanding of the actual diodes and such, see the values in a different way.
 
Warpedpassage

Warpedpassage

Well-Known Member
CannaBruh said:
Happy EB user here.

Heatsinks? What heatsinks with the EBs?
No time for that monstrosity of a heatsink... might as well throw a glass bulb in there.
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What is the highest wattage you run a single eb strip at? 2ft , 4 ft?

As far as i can tell , the new eb, at 9$ for a 4ft (100qty) seems to good to pass up, even if just for veg light. Fortunately i have a buddy who will split that 100 strips with me.
 
BuddyColas

BuddyColas

Well-Known Member
welight said:
so this is an interesting question. We are a Bridgelux distributor but I cant get my head into the EB game. If you want for cheap. I see it as a solution for a quarter mile, but not for staying, and maybe thats ok, if you dont invest much you can afford to get onto the next big thing. Im no fan of FR4(Fibreglass boards) for LED, its an insulator not a conductor of heat, even though people have no thermal problem, so Im told. The Gen3 like Gen 2 are using 2835 leds, much like normal flexible led ribbon, these leds are cheap, I actually prefer the gen 1 with the 3030 leds. Its clear these two things say one thing build them as cheap as possible. the issue with 2835 is I dont see them making the 220LPW that Sammy and Nichia in 3030 make. and I expect in the next 4-5 weeks to see 230LPW 3030 leds. If I was going to build a 2835 strip I would use the Cree 2835 which is a better chip. I think greengenes is moving to the Cree 5630 chip, also a good option. The key thing with strips is they dont penetrate like COB, but they spread the canopy beautifully so why buy an 560mm EB that does 2200 lumens at 700ma for $9.5 when you can get a 5000 lumen strip for around 50c-$1 more at the same efficacy with twice the penetration power
mic drop Im out
Cheers
Mark
Click to expand...
Please post a link to the "...5000 lumen strip for around 50c-$1 more..." Thanks.
 
cobshopgrow

cobshopgrow

Well-Known Member
i am thinking of replacing my hlg320-2100mA, 6 pcs 288 LMB301b 3000k boards with these EB3 slim.
Planned is to take 56 pcs 340mm EB3 strips driven at roughly 525mA then, 14 in series, 4 parallel.
Reason is that i hope for more mechanical regidity.
But, i dont want to get much worse efficiency wise, what are your thoughts, EB3 rocks or not vs this dam efficient LM301b setup?

From what i could gather the LM301b setup should be arround 196 lpw and the new eb3 are 186 at 700mA idk, will use 525mA but that wont be much better according to the datasheet.
But people rave about their EB2 and vestas, so i ask myself if the eb spectrum is may better?
 
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10WeekFlushBro

10WeekFlushBro

Well-Known Member
ToFarGone said:
Ok so question. If doing a new build would it be the gen2 or for more money gen3
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Hate to be like this but why even ask? You cannot do the calculations yourself? If you have the money you get the new shit, if you don't have the money get the old shit... it's so simple... If the new thing does 200lpw and the old thing does 175lpw, how much better does that make it? Is the cost increase equal to, or higher than, the 'quality' increase? Does the spearmint lose its flavor on the bedpost overnight?

edit: Lol, what a needlessly grumpy post. no offense intended.
 
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BuddyColas

BuddyColas

Well-Known Member
10WeekFlushBro said:
Hate to be like this but why even ask? You cannot do the calculations yourself? If you have the money you get the new shit, if you don't have the money get the old shit... it's so simple... If the new thing does 200lpw and the old thing does 175lpw, how much better does that make it? Is the cost increase equal to, or higher than, the 'quality' increase? Does the spearmint lose its flavor on the bedpost overnight?

edit: Lol, what a needlessly grumpy post. no offense intended.
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If your mother says don't chew it, do you swallow it in spite?
 
S

Saad786

Member
Hi guys, very confused here so if anyone can help it would be much appreciated,

I'm wanting a driver for 1ft EB3 strips (slim)

I only really need a small max amount of light coverage (1.6m2) so 7 strips running @700ma would give me 53.2 watts, this is probably the max I'd run them as @ 35w per m2 I need 56 watts? Is this correct?

I want to keep heat low, so would running 7 underdriven strips be better than 5 or 6?

Reason for 7 strips is according to chart it's 7.6w per led @ 700ma.

Now I'm confused as to the driver I need, I was thinking of HLG-60H-15B, it's rated at 60w, and 4A, it says constant current, does this mean it will only provide 4A? And divided by 7 would mean approx 570amps, it also says CV, constant voltage which is what I need, I think, as I need to drive them between 10.9-11.7 volts, so will this driver be sufficient?

I will connect in parallel, as it's only 7 strips.

Does using a potentiometer control the current (amps) or the watts? I'm so confused by this bit especially, how do I dim the lights? Do I need CC or constant voltage? Or both?

If anyone can point me in the right direction for the correct driver I need, it would be massively appreciated, I've been reading through forums for about a week and struggling to grasp it properly
 
1

1212ham

Well-Known Member
Saad786 said:
I only really need a small max amount of light coverage (1.6m2) so 7 strips running @700ma would give me 53.2 watts, this is probably the max I'd run them as @ 35w per m2 I need 56 watts? Is this correct?
Click to expand...
No, it's 35w per square foot, not square meter. That's about 375W per m2.
 
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