Discussion in 'LED and other Lighting' started by brahbbyB, Dec 5, 2016.
Can you measure your a.c. input power? (wall watts)
My original EB builds had over 50 w/ft sq.....I haven't noticed any sort of decline in results since spreading them out to around 30w/ft sq.........
You might want to load a lux meter app and map the reading across your canopy at regular intervals in both directions. That'll give you an idea of any hot/cold spots, and also give you some guidance in raising/lowering or turning up/down your new lights.
Ive heard of those apps, but never really gave it any thought. Are they semi accurate?
Do you have a particular program you would suggest?
Yeah, close enough.
There are multiple choices (at least for android). Pick a highly rated one and you'll be fine. Some useful numbers compliments of @Randomblame:
10.000-15.000lx(~150-220μMol/s) early vegging
25.000-30.000lx(~350-450μMol/s) late vegging
50.000-60.000lx(~750-900μMol/s) in flower,
I am height restricted, that‘s why I got the strips. Veg light I don‘t adjust, so 8“-1“, they can even touch the diods for atleast a few hours, without burning (tested it for 3 days, because I was lazy...), running the strips at 50% nominal current. Flower cab I need to take 6“ distance, because of my other panel. And my last light is at 6-8“ inch atm, will let the plants grow into the light now (week2 of flower started). 2-4“ the will end up.
So in the end, it‘s all about your own enviroment, as close as possible, without unhealthy plants, is the most efficient. Especially because you have an open space. Within my white walls I don‘t really loose much light anyways.
They were only around 25000 lux
Turned it up to 23v, lowered it a bit and boom 50000lux
Same with my mars hydro lights I thought they might be getting burned from the brown pistils I see but it was not even close.. All good now.
picture of the brown pistils. White russian auto, supposedly another month left .
What do you think.
Trichs are clear
I'm trying to be impressed by this format of LED, really troublesome removing the heat from the room with ducting.
Man I even put the drivers outside my room these strips have no heat. I can touch them all over and it's barely warm you could say
And the strips are so easy and no heat sinks. If you ever break one its two push in wires and two screws lol
I highly suggest
I came into this with 0 electrical knowledge. If I can do it you can for sure. Read this thread and you'll have all of the info needed plus a lot more
Have a look at these bad boys for controlling your lights.
You can ramp them up and bring in other channels of colours like far red etc as you want.
You set up the schedule on your PC, then download it into the controller.
We use them for aquariums to simulate the sun coming up, the moon, etc.
Look up TC420 (ironic part number)
They have the same heat as others, it is just spread more evenly so there is no concentrated hotspot, the whole unit with its heatsink is acting like a radiant space heater.
Is it possible to dimm each channel separately?
I prefer Sonoffs but they can only be used as a timer switch, at least without modifications. But you need only a smartphone app, no PC.
Yes, you specify the output as a percentage next to a timetable.
Some of these are wifi too I believe, I didn't keep up with developments, to be honest.
The TC420 can control up to 240W
What are our PAR readings ?
I lowered the light and dimmed to 23v, and I got 50klux. Perfect for flower
And they work with HLG-Series Drivers? Seems they need 12 or 24v constant voltage, I'm not sure they would work with cc strips without additional LDD driver on each channel. With CV flex-strips, those with resistors between the diodes they work for sure, but with EB or F-Series...I don't know?
I have just watched a few videos about this controller and one would need additional LDD's for constant current operation like I've thought.
just an update all is running and well thank u for all the help, so I'm running 12x 4ft eb strips with 2 x drivers HLG-320A-c1050 at roughly 300w each and they get pretty hot, I'm using 3/4inch aluminum channel from lowes, and the lights and driver get upto 110-125F hot to the touch but they are running sweet i get about 300-350umol at 3.5 feet distance from canopy I have an apogee 200 and will b doing more tests after this weekend with more pictures, at 300w each they are tuned down a bit but if I have them at full blast they run at 335watts is it safe to keep them at full blast ? I'm already seeing pretty good light levels but I'm afraid of running them too hot...not that my room is hot, I have the lights in a 15x10 space covering only a 4x4 area and temps are not hot enough for proper grow temps so I'm building a few more to see if I can get the temps up without using an ac!
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