Bored Mechanic - Got any car questions?

rucca said:

So like $600 rebuild vs $900 new + warranty... I'd probably go new and I agree that you should do a total refresh while it's out for peace of mind

Especially after reading some about your crank. Evidently is has its bearings pressed on and requires balancing after being rebuilt. If your machine shop is comfortable with doing this - they should offer you a warranty of some type but I'm going to guess that most machine shops aren't rebuilding these often?

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they are fun little motors. if you ever come across one.

i like the warranty idea. i'm pretty comfortable doing things myself, but like you said, the crank has to be aligned so i might as well have someone do it for me.

i am really curious as to why it failed. i idled it 2 miles back to the dock and it didn't really tear anything up. thinking about it now though, one of the rods got over heated and is discolored. i think it's best to swap it all out.

for another 400 i can get the premium motor with a 2 year warranty. http://www.shopsbt.com/seadoo_jet-ski_engine_premium/P40-107.html
seems like a lot for only an extra year. i do put 40+ hours on it yearly though. it may be worth it.

Hehe $400 for an extra year, a pin up calendar, and DVD of really soft core porn.... sounds worth it to me!

Alright rucca, I got one for you....

Somethings up with my passenger heated seat... it MUST be an electrical problem somewhere... So the buttom for the heater seat doesn't light up at all... if you press the button on.. theres supposed to be a solid green LED that comes on to let you know the heater seat is working... Works perfectly on the driver side... but nothing when you press the button on the passenger side... The reason I'm convinced its an electrical problem, is because the actual track lighting for the button doesn't operate either... You know when its dark... and everything in your car is illuminated so you can find the buttons... well the passenger heated seat button won't light up... but the actual seat heater does work.... so... What gives? I figure the LED light for the button is burnt out... but whats up with the track lighting?

edit: There's no blown fuses in the driver side interior fuse box, or under the hood... All the fuses / relays are in good working condition. It's a '93 Accord SE if that matters..

edit again: Got one more little "problem"... when I FIRST start my car... it idles very high... like around 1500 rpm..... anywhere from 1500-2000 RPM... but thats only when I FIRST start it... second I shift into reverse... the tachometer shoots down to 500 RPM or whatever... and then I drive around... etc..... and if I stop at a red light... everythings fine... she idles around 500RPM when I'm driving it.... but when I FIRST start her up she idles really high.... Any idea why?

Well they are two separate bulbs. For the one in the switch you will likely need to replace the switch. The bulb to illuminate the controls should be replaceable - let me know year make and model and I may be able to shed some more insight.... I'm assuming your gauges and radio etc are all lit up at night, correct?

It's a 93' Accord Special Edition... and yes.... everything else is illuminated just fine

okay, so my car leaks oil on to the muffler, it builds up and when i start the car the is a HUGE plum of smoke, the mechanic over here said he could fix it, if i got a new engine...

idk what other info to include, but i feel like that guy was just fucking with me

So you must be Canadian, or at least your car is evidently =P Doesn't appear that USA got heated seats as an option, one baller accord you got there!

The wiring diagram shows that both of these bulbs are a part of the switch, though it does not tell me if they are replaceable or give me info on how to replace them. A quick google search revealed this http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?p=722221 it is directions for replacing the bulbs in a newer accord. The fact that a newer model uses a replaceable bulb gives me good hope that your older model surely has replaceable bulbs. The instructions may vary, but IIRC, the center trim around your shifter should pull out as described in that link. If not, look for phillips head screws, or small plastic squares that can be pryed away to reveal the phillips head screw or whatever underneath. Good luck!

How can I get a car to start that has the whole steering column/ignition ripped out?I can turn this ball in the ignition with needle nose plyers and get it to try and start but ford has and anti theft system so you cant steal it like that.Basically I need to know how to disable the theft system.
The theft system says it has a computer chip built into the key so when you stick it in the ignition it sends a signal somewhere.I have nowhere to stick the key into lol.I still have the key though lol.

I have a ML-320 and the brake lights are stuck on all the time. any idea how to get it back working to normal? Any response with something thatm ight help is appreciated! great thread btw lol

upthearsenal said:

okay, so my car leaks oil on to the muffler, it builds up and when i start the car the is a HUGE plum of smoke, the mechanic over here said he could fix it, if i got a new engine...

idk what other info to include, but i feel like that guy was just fucking with me

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Generally oil leaks that end up on the exhaust are caused by a leaking valve cover gasket. However, it sounds as though your smoke is coming out of the muffler, not smoking as a result of landing on top of the exhaust and thus burning. Smoke coming out the tailpipe can mean a rebuild - but depending on the car, it may not. i.e. Volkswagens, especially with turbos, just loooove to suck in oil and burn it up at an alarming rate and this can generally be fixed or subdued with the proper oil and a new breather valve (cheap). Please clarify and also let me know year / make / model / engine / and mileage.

rucca said:

Generally oil leaks that end up on the exhaust are caused by a leaking valve cover gasket. However, it sounds as though your smoke is coming out of the muffler, not smoking as a result of landing on top of the exhaust and thus burning. Smoke coming out the tailpipe can mean a rebuild - but depending on the car, it may not. i.e. Volkswagens, especially with turbos, just loooove to suck in oil and burn it up at an alarming rate and this can generally be fixed or subdued with the proper oil and a new breather valve (cheap). Please clarify and also let me know year / make / model / engine / and mileage.

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it's a 96' toyota avalon xl, with a v6 3000 four cam 24 (that's what was written on the actual engine), with 185,000+ miles.

...... said:

How can I get a car to start that has the whole steering column/ignition ripped out?I can turn this ball in the ignition with needle nose plyers and get it to try and start but ford has and anti theft system so you cant steal it like that.Basically I need to know how to disable the theft system.
The theft system says it has a computer chip built into the key so when you stick it in the ignition it sends a signal somewhere.I have nowhere to stick the key into lol.I still have the key though lol.

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Hopefully you are dealing with a GM product. In this case, the PASSLOCK system can be easily disabled by wiring in a resistor of the correct value. I have a pack here in my toolbox, they are like $1 at radioshack. They should be 2.2k Ohm resistors I believe, that is what I have here in my toolbox, but I think I used them to repair an instrument cluster in a Buick Regal... anyway, this link should give you the details.

http://www.articlesbase.com/automotive-articles/how-to-permanently-disable-gm-passlock-system-958465.html

If you are dealing with a non GM you probably have a PATs key which is a whole different beast and I'm not sure I can help but lemme know make/model/year and I'll see.

BDBandit said:

I have a ML-320 and the brake lights are stuck on all the time. any idea how to get it back working to normal? Any response with something thatm ight help is appreciated! great thread btw lol

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You sound like you need a stop lamp switch. Your cruise control is also likely inoperative and perhaps your ABS and BAS lights illuminated? The switch should be located on the brake pedal, is easy to change, and probably costs like $35 bucks. Extremely high failure rate item here, in fact I put one in yesterday =)

upthearsenal said:

it's a 96' toyota avalon xl, with a v6 3000 four cam 24 (that's what was written on the actual engine), with 185,000+ miles.

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Well that may be good! These engines are very common for their valve covers leaking onto the exhaust manifold, the 4 cylinder one too. Unfortunately, for the V6, replacement of the rear valve cover gasket requires removal of the intake plenum and will probably be about 3 - 4 hours of labor. You still have not clarified if the smoke is coming out of your tailpipe or under the hood/car though

oh sorry, it comes from the tailpipe

rucca said:

You sound like you need a stop lamp switch. Your cruise control is also likely inoperative and perhaps your ABS and BAS lights illuminated? The switch should be located on the brake pedal, is easy to change, and probably costs like $35 bucks. Extremely high failure rate item here, in fact I put one in yesterday =)

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Haha damn your good! but unfortunatly thats not the problem, I had that problem almost a year ago and switched the stop lamp switch then, I double checked it a few weeks ago as well to make sure it was still working and it is. However I did have to change a brake light around a month ago, maybe I messed something up there? I dont see how I could since it was pretty straight foward, but you never know. thanks for the reply

I have a 2001 Toyota Tundra 4x4 and my transmission always slips from 1st to 2nd, sometimes softly, sometimes a hard thump, been going on for a long time but I hear it's normal for Tundras. Should I replace the transmission (they're fairly cheap at the local junk yards) or just add fluid like some people have told me?

Thanks!

I got a question... I got an 87 camry that won't start. I took out the fuel filter and cranked it, but no fuel comes out of the line. I was told it was my fuel pump, but could it be electrical? As if no current is activating the pump?

upthearsenal said:

oh sorry, it comes from the tailpipe

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Well smoke coming out of your exhaust at, mainly at startup is a pretty good sign that your valve seals are leaking. Oil pools in your cylinder head, this is normal, and the valves have seals around them to prevent that pooled oil from leaking into the cylinders. When these seals fail, the oil continuously leaks into the cylinders and is burned into smoke. The largest cloud will be at startup because is has had all night to let the pooled up oil seep into the cylinders.

Repair is costly, less than engine replacement, but at 185,000 miles your mechanic would rather install a complete engine than have you spend ~$1500 on valve seals, only to have your engine possibly fail 30,000 miles later or whatever.

My advice, is to not fix it. Especially since you don't mention failing emissions for visible smoke out the tailpipe. I would try to replace the PCV valve ($3) but this will likely get you nowhere. It's job is basically to keep pressure out of the engine so that seals are less likely to leak - so it may help. It is as easy to install as an air filter. The other thing I would recommend is trying one of the several oil additives that claim to reduce smoking and make your old engine new again or whatever. I like the Lucas Oil Stabilizer, which can likely be found at your local auto store.

thank you so much rucca! you've given me more info in three posts than two mechanics did, i'll look into getting some of that lucas oil stuff, thanks for putting everything into perspective!

BDBandit said:

Haha damn your good! but unfortunatly thats not the problem, I had that problem almost a year ago and switched the stop lamp switch then, I double checked it a few weeks ago as well to make sure it was still working and it is. However I did have to change a brake light around a month ago, maybe I messed something up there? I dont see how I could since it was pretty straight foward, but you never know. thanks for the reply

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You never know.. just because it was done a year ago doesn't mean that isn't your current problem... I'd try another and just return it if it didn't work. I have heard of bad bulbs causing this, but never seen it.

bajafox said:

I have a 2001 Toyota Tundra 4x4 and my transmission always slips from 1st to 2nd, sometimes softly, sometimes a hard thump, been going on for a long time but I hear it's normal for Tundras. Should I replace the transmission (they're fairly cheap at the local junk yards) or just add fluid like some people have told me?

Thanks!

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Well low fluid will cause an array of problems - so definitely make sure the fluid level is correct, might as well change it out if you haven't in some time and I'd put a new filter on it too. If the filter and fluid is proper level and fresh, and you have no transmission trouble codes, I would say you are going to be buying a trans soon whether you like it or not =P I didn't find any software updates for your car, so unless your fluid is low, slipping generally = trans

RJGrowOp said:

I got a question... I got an 87 camry that won't start. I took out the fuel filter and cranked it, but no fuel comes out of the line. I was told it was my fuel pump, but could it be electrical? As if no current is activating the pump?

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Yes, likely is the pump. I don't have much good info on your car unfortunately. I know though that if you open your under hood service connector, and put a wire/paper clip between terminals FP and B+ you will be sending voltage directly to the pump and it should run. If you still have no fuel, you'll have to find the pump itself and you can directly jump power and ground to it then. I am not sure how difficult that will be though if you have an in tank pump. Some cars are nice and put an access panel under the rear seat or in the trunk, but sometimes you have to drop the tank down to get a good look.