Blue Dream 800W Induction Lights SOG

bibbles

Active Member
the first grow i did i did not trim anything. the second grow I actually brought everything out and did trim off the bottom 1/3 or so I thought, just didn't really go back through for a second pass and probably wasn't aggressive enough but if you go back into my posts a few pages there are pictures of the before and after. Even with the trim the middle of these plants is very light, but the density on the tops is amazing really. Just as good as what I experienced with my 1000W HPS, I think that once you give the plant enough light, it comes down to genetics and CO2 enrichment for the truly dense nugs.
Interesting, the reason I was asking is I'm looking at either water cooled lights, or Ice Boxes on three 1000W lamps in a sealed room with CO2. According to their equivalencies, that would be four induction lights, but I don't know if that is taking into account the fact that the ligths can be closer, uncooled or not. The cost ends up about the same after the water chiller for either lighting set up, but I want to be able to maintain 90F in the day (CO2 is most effective 90-95), 90 at night for the first two weeks of flower to minimize stretch, then cold snap the last week or two to bring out color and more resin...

Do you think these lights will be able to raise the ambient temp to 90? I'd assume yes, but I know HPS can... I'm also water cooling four reservoirs and the AC (filter, Ice Box, fan, defuser - circulation, cooling, and eliminating smell leaks). I'd rather not have that much water under pressure near my lights, and that's a good deal of extra weight, so it kind of depends on how many induction lamps I would need to replace it... Also, ambient temp is around or over 100 for 3 months a year or so - I was going to have the water chiller in the room outside the tent, and an AC in the window set to 75F to provide a layer of normal heat between the tent and the wall, and probably make it easier to regulate the internal tent temp as well, while removing heat from the water chiller from the room...

CO2 generator will also be water cooled... And the tent 10'x5, though the tables only 4'x8'.

Sorry about that, I've just had these lights bouncing around the back of my mind, comparing and contrasting the same things, since I first saw them... Maybe you can shed a little light on things... :X
 

solcielo

Active Member
Interesting, the reason I was asking is I'm looking at either water cooled lights, or Ice Boxes on three 1000W lamps in a sealed room with CO2. According to their equivalencies, that would be four induction lights, but I don't know if that is taking into account the fact that the ligths can be closer, uncooled or not. The cost ends up about the same after the water chiller for either lighting set up, but I want to be able to maintain 90F in the day (CO2 is most effective 90-95), 90 at night for the first two weeks of flower to minimize stretch, then cold snap the last week or two to bring out color and more resin...

Do you think these lights will be able to raise the ambient temp to 90? I'd assume yes, but I know HPS can... I'm also water cooling four reservoirs and the AC (filter, Ice Box, fan, defuser - circulation, cooling, and eliminating smell leaks). I'd rather not have that much water under pressure near my lights, and that's a good deal of extra weight, so it kind of depends on how many induction lamps I would need to replace it... Also, ambient temp is around or over 100 for 3 months a year or so - I was going to have the water chiller in the room outside the tent, and an AC in the window set to 75F to provide a layer of normal heat between the tent and the wall, and probably make it easier to regulate the internal tent temp as well, while removing heat from the water chiller from the room...

CO2 generator will also be water cooled... And the tent 10'x5, though the tables only 4'x8'.

Sorry about that, I've just had these lights bouncing around the back of my mind, comparing and contrasting the same things, since I first saw them... Maybe you can shed a little light on things... :X
In a 5x10 tent I think 3-4 of the 400W lamps would probably get you in the low 90's. Just running a 6" fan pulling air out for negative pressure with 2-400W in a 4x4 tent sealed up it went up to 94 degrees holding steady when ambient temps were in the high 70's. If you go with the induction lamps I wouldn't worry about perfect temps to minimize stretch; they should give you great results regardless of temp.

As to which lamps to choose for yourself, you can look around everywhere and see that 3-1000W HPS + CO2 enrichment will definitely yield awesome results. I get a little sketched out running water cooling around lights (water + electricity + weed = ....) I think if you're running with short plants short veg you could match the 3-1000 with 4-5 of the 400W lamps. Or perhaps employ some kind of ScrOG under a few of the lamps and just a couple plants weaved throughout a screen watch a sea of resin coated colas pop up.
 

adamic

Member
thank you for this post. I love Tesla and while I've heard of this technology I had never seen it in actual use, much less for our purposes. Kudos and subbed.
 

bibbles

Active Member
In a 5x10 tent I think 3-4 of the 400W lamps would probably get you in the low 90's. Just running a 6" fan pulling air out for negative pressure with 2-400W in a 4x4 tent sealed up it went up to 94 degrees holding steady when ambient temps were in the high 70's. If you go with the induction lamps I wouldn't worry about perfect temps to minimize stretch; they should give you great results regardless of temp.

As to which lamps to choose for yourself, you can look around everywhere and see that 3-1000W HPS + CO2 enrichment will definitely yield awesome results. I get a little sketched out running water cooling around lights (water + electricity + weed = ....) I think if you're running with short plants short veg you could match the 3-1000 with 4-5 of the 400W lamps. Or perhaps employ some kind of ScrOG under a few of the lamps and just a couple plants weaved throughout a screen watch a sea of resin coated colas pop up.
I'd rather run more plants in a SOG than a few in a ScrOG, things are more expendable, and if I'm going to have to spend extra time taking car of one or the other, I'd rather be refilling reservoirs more often than weaving (at least at the moment, ScrOG is something for the future). I don't really care if I can control the night time temps (though it would be nice), but I'd like to get heat in that optimal range with lights on and CO2 flowing...

Also, on their site it says you can remotely mount the ballasts (only six feet away, but that's still something), so that will help when it's super hot I guess...
 

solcielo

Active Member
Putting the driver where you will (even with 6' allowance) would be helpful as that's the main source of heat.

Had some friends come over and I had to seal up the tent so I adjusted the light and pump cycle a few hours later and disconnected one of the lamps. I woke up (a little panicked at first) a couple hours after lights came on and with low 70's ambient temp the 1-400W in a sealed 4x4 tent no real exhaust had brought temps to a stable 82.4F. So I think for a 4x4x7 volume 1-400W will bring your temps up about 10 degrees.

Poured in some lady bugs yesterday and they're having fun. The mites seem really interested in just one of the plants and I think with the SNS217 + ladybugs I have them well under control.

Gonna start my 2-week flush in preparation for an 8 week harvest tomorrow. Today marks day 42 of 12/12.
 

bibbles

Active Member
Are you going to do 72 hours of darkness prior to harvest?

I say 72, and not 24 or 32 like most people, because the only larger scale study I've seen used 72...
 

solcielo

Active Member
i'd read about that and talked with a few friends that grow inside and everyone seems to think it is an additional step that really doesn't do much so I don't worry about it
 

bibbles

Active Member
In that study, they harvested one crop and left the other in darkness for 72 hours... which means it was alive for 72 hours longer... so maybe they just harvested the first a little early anyway...
 

solcielo

Active Member
I can pick apart the theory behind it, just hadn't heard from anyone that got comparable results using the technique. Essentially everything we're doing in growing good sensi-buds (seedless) is tricking female plants into trying to reproduce. THC is used by a plant to create the shell of it's seeds and much of it is concentrated in the resin glands that coat the plant (trichromes). We trick the plant into thinking winter is coming by changing the photoperiod to 12/12 and it instantly tries to reproduce by creating the buds. I guess the 3-day dark period causes the plant to freak out and make one last hard push at reproducing by putting out as much resin as possible in attempt to catch pollen floating around from absent neighboring males.
 

adamic

Member
Years ago I had heard about a 72 hour darkness period from a hippie grower friend of mine. He swore it brought out essential resin and oil production and compared to my grows he did have runs with fatter resin glands of the same OG X Sour Diesel. This kind of pissed me off because both of us were growing the same strains in soil with the same nutes.

That got me sort of believing so having tested this myself between four different grows, same strains, same nutes I can tell from my experience that there is a noticeable difference in trichome (frostiness) production. I thought I was one of the few people that knew this trick since most people cut @ harvest with no dark period.

I'm not sure exactly why or how it works but from what I gather when the plant is in total darkness for 72 hours it knows it's days are numbered and then uses all of it's energy left to produce those resins and oils that lead to swollen resin glands.

Mas Potente mi Amigo!
Now I've got to try it on my next Kush blend and you got me thinking....

My grow buddy, I guess he's a hippie too because he hasn't really given up on the 60's, swears that the plants are still 'alive' after we cut them and they still if handled properly, will increase resins and oils. What do you think Is there anything to that or is he spending to much time communing with my pipe.
 

Illumination

New Member
Now I've got to try it on my next Kush blend and you got me thinking....

My grow buddy, I guess he's a hippie too because he hasn't really given up on the 60's, swears that the plants are still 'alive' after we cut them and they still if handled properly, will increase resins and oils. What do you think Is there anything to that or is he spending to much time communing with my pipe.

they are still alive after the cut...and they do increase production of cannabinoids afterwards...the reasoning behind slow dry and even slower long cure

Hope it helps

Nice job on the grow there soc:clap:

Namaste':peace:
 

xyzxyz

Member
This is pleasant surprise. It's like seeing your children off to college for the first time. Consider me subbed and let me know if there are ever any technical questions that I can assist with.
Welcome to the thread, Im sure as an Inda Grow Rep there will be a lit of questions fired off to you in this thread.
 

solcielo

Active Member
Nice job on the grow there soc:clap:

Namaste':peace:
And welcome to the thread Lumen. It is appropriate to find you in my journal and I'd like to take a moment to thank you for inspiring me to take up the technology. After all your overall snarkiness and touting IQ and MENSA status after writing:

"Ok, for the sake of understanding let us hypothesize that you sir obtained these wonder lights. And you employ their use into your grow. And these things just blow away hid with their performance in your grow. Are you not going to demonstrate to all how awesome they performed? Well I am sure you would as it can safely be assumed that one who posts on a marijuana growing forum would. So why is there not a single even adequate grow illustrated by anyone?"

amongst other absurdities really piqued my curiosity and made me start this journal. So I guess in a way you have been a big figure in promoting this technology if you think about it ... lol.

And I always thought of myself as more of a greaser than a soc.

~solcielo
 

solcielo

Active Member
DSC_7134_022811_2272.jpgDSC_7138_022811_2276.jpgDSC_7140_022811_2278.jpgDSC_7144_022811_2282.jpgDSC_7135_022811_2273.jpgDSC_7136_022811_2274.jpgDSC_7137_022811_2275.jpgDSC_7139_022811_2277.jpgDSC_7143_022811_2281.jpgDSC_7145_022811_2283.jpg

photo update from today day 44 12/12. Changed to just clean water yesterday starting my two week flush. Started at 49 ppm and it's already up to 440ppm after one day... lots of dissolved salts. Going to do another change and raise the drain a little bit to get a more full flood in a day or two.
 

solcielo

Active Member
DSC_7141_022811_2279.jpgDSC_7142_022811_2280.jpg


uggggh so my tallest plant (beats all others by 2-3") happened to draw the attention of spider mites out the wazoo. The only reason I haven't just scrapped the whole plant is it's still alive and seems to be a magnet for the little fuckers. So I regularly wipe out a good % of their population with SNS217 and introduced lady bugs the other day and they seem to be having a field day. Going to go back through and trim off even more of the poor plants leaves soon. Something tells me that plants going in the hash pile....

There's a lesson here. I used floromite as a dip a week before bloom but then nothing after. Should have been doing weekly neem oil treatments (I have the stuff around, just was lazy and figured the dip + sns217 i'd be fine) and I'm finding out that where my blower fan hits the tent is where my mite infestation starts so there's a needed change there too.
 

xyzxyz

Member
Lights appear to be working very well. How tall are they at this final stage Sol? What is the density like?
 

chazbolin

Well-Known Member
Stay away for a week and look what I come home to. While beautiful my guess is the pictures don't do them justice. I can almost smell them from here.

I know it's still early but overall how would compare these lamps with your previous HID grow where I presume you used a combination of metal halide and hps? What I've been wondering is if light emitted from a continuous spectrum, such as the inda-gro, create a healthier plant from those that may endure stress from converting between UV and IR spectrums as is the traditional case with MH/HPS conversions.

Also early on you stated that there would be no AC is that still the case? Are you having to do any extra venting of the tent from heat generated by the lights?

Thanks for sharing all this Sol.
 
Top