BioCanna frustrated.... :(

Wolverine97

Wolverine97

Well-Known Member
NightbirdX said:
Alright man, thanks a lot for the info. I'll look into finding an Organic Cal/Mag that works. I was looking at the GO Bio Bud. I'm all for using a similar product and saving some money. What is your opinion on switching the Cannazym for Hygrozyme?
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General Organics makes a good Cal/mag also, and it's pretty cheap. I really like the whole GO lineup, it's cheaper and works very well, but Canna is good stuff. Calmag+ from Botanicare works very well too. I love Hygrozyme, but I do own (and use, I alternate) Cannazyme as well. The thing with Cannazyme is that it's supposed to trigger the plants' SAR response, which is like their immune system, it's supposed to mimic a pathogen or something to trigger this. I do think that Hygrozyme is a better all around enzyme though, but it swings the pH a bit more. Hope this helps.

I get most of my gear from SGS, btw. I see you're in Lansing.:bigjoint:
 
NightbirdX

NightbirdX

Well-Known Member
Wolverine97 said:
General Organics makes a good Cal/mag also, and it's pretty cheap. I really like the whole GO lineup, it's cheaper and works very well, but Canna is good stuff. Calmag+ from Botanicare works very well too. I love Hygrozyme, but I do own (and use, I alternate) Cannazyme as well. The thing with Cannazyme is that it's supposed to trigger the plants' SAR response, which is like their immune system, it's supposed to mimic a pathogen or something to trigger this. I do think that Hygrozyme is a better all around enzyme though, but it swings the pH a bit more. Hope this helps.

I get most of my gear from SGS, btw. I see you're in Lansing.:bigjoint:
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Alright, man I'll be sure to pic some of it up. Thanks for the advice on the Hygrozyme. I might try alternating also and see how it works. Ya SGS is my spot too, lol. You in MI also?
 
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LivingLegendD3l

Member
:leaf:Hello Everyone:leaf:
LOVE THIS THREAD ! :clap:
I also just recently started using the Biocanna line , I am pretty much a noob ( this is my first run ever) , and had a few questions if anyone would be kind enough to help me.
I am using: The BioCanna line VEGA, FLORES , BIOBOOST and RHIZO ; 3 gallon regular pots filled with only canna coco ; feeding on a dripper system, draining with a flood tray into a resevoir. Temp stays around 75- 77 all day and drops to 63 -65 at night. Humidity always 30 - 40%. Running hollywood kush .
About 4 weeks into flower and they are looking pretty darn good, but I want to maximize my potential and make sure I am doing things the best I can / correctly.
Heres my daily routine: currently i am running at about 60 % of canna recommended strength from their chart, i ph to about 6.0 every tank. drip 2 min when they come on , 1 min drip 3 hours later and a final 2 min drip about 4 hours later, which gives them a good 4 hours to dry out before dark. I flush about every 2 weeks.
First general questions... Should i ph the biocanna even though thay say not to ? Is the biocanna line even a good choice for my "hydro/coco" drip system ? Is it ok to let my tank sit for about a week, when they say use in 2 days ? Can you accurately measure the ppm of bicanna ? ( lots of people say ppm w. biocanna is useless) ANY AND ALL ADVICE OR SUGGESTIONS ARE WELCOME !! =)
 
Wolverine97

Wolverine97

Well-Known Member
LivingLegendD3l said:
:leaf:Hello Everyone:leaf:
LOVE THIS THREAD ! :clap:
I also just recently started using the Biocanna line , I am pretty much a noob ( this is my first run ever) , and had a few questions if anyone would be kind enough to help me.
I am using: The BioCanna line VEGA, FLORES , BIOBOOST and RHIZO ; 3 gallon regular pots filled with only canna coco ; feeding on a dripper system, draining with a flood tray into a resevoir. Temp stays around 75- 77 all day and drops to 63 -65 at night. Humidity always 30 - 40%. Running hollywood kush .
About 4 weeks into flower and they are looking pretty darn good, but I want to maximize my potential and make sure I am doing things the best I can / correctly.
Heres my daily routine: currently i am running at about 60 % of canna recommended strength from their chart, i ph to about 6.0 every tank. drip 2 min when they come on , 1 min drip 3 hours later and a final 2 min drip about 4 hours later, which gives them a good 4 hours to dry out before dark. I flush about every 2 weeks.
First general questions... Should i ph the biocanna even though thay say not to ? Is the biocanna line even a good choice for my "hydro/coco" drip system ? Is it ok to let my tank sit for about a week, when they say use in 2 days ? Can you accurately measure the ppm of bicanna ? ( lots of people say ppm w. biocanna is useless) ANY AND ALL ADVICE OR SUGGESTIONS ARE WELCOME !! =)
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I'd consider switching to soil if you plan to keep using that nutrient line, it's not designed for coco. You could go with a coco based soilless medium like Roots Organic, or just get Canna's coco line of nutrients (it's only two bottles). You will start to develop some magnesium issues soon...
 
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LivingLegendD3l

Member
THANKS WOLVERINE ! thats what i was afraid of.. could i maybe mix some soil with the coco and see better results, only b/c i have like 2 bags of the coco left and it aint cheap ! they look pretty damn good. but the quantity is not there, they have about 4 weeks left so i hope they bulk up. I WANT to stay organic though... would that cal /mag you guys were tlaking about help me if i start to see issues ? do you know if will the flower time be extended ( compatred to normal chems ) b/c i am using organics ? any idea about the general questions about the bio products ... ph , ppm , time sitting in tank ?
 
Wolverine97

Wolverine97

Well-Known Member
Yeah, you can mix it, I think you'd have better results. I'd mix it 50/50 with Ocean Forest and add some perlite if that's the route you choose. The Cal/mag will help for sure, you should be using that with Canna's lineup anyhow, regardless of what your medium is (they're known for needing cal/mag supplements). Organic won't take any longer to finish, but you'll want to add some beneficial bacteria/fungal innoculant to keep nutrients available for the plant.

I'm not sure about the other stuff, I rarely check my pH, never check tds, and I mix my nutrients as I use them. I'm in soil, with a well tuned system that's been refined over the years so I can get away without some things that are essential for newer growers.
 
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LivingLegendD3l

Member
thank you very much ! i will DEF be using your advice for this next round... once i use up these coco bags i will prob switch to full soil. i just like how fast the turn around time is for hydro rips, compared to soil , but i also want to stay organic. i'll let you know what happens. best regards !
 
Wolverine97

Wolverine97

Well-Known Member
Most of the difference in time line when comparing soil vs. hydro is during veg. Once flowering starts things level out a bit more, soil still being slightly slower initially but the overall flowering time is within a few days. No big deal, the difference in quality is worth it in my experience. Soil can be as simple or as complex as you want it to be.
 
NightbirdX

NightbirdX

Well-Known Member
I started in Coco with the BioCanna line and had issues within a week. I wrote Canna and they talked to me about Coco and BioCanna not having a CEC exchange compatability. They say use Coco nutes for Coco, and a peat based soil or soilless for the BioCanna line. I can dig up the email for you if you would like.
 
Wolverine97

Wolverine97

Well-Known Member
NightbirdX said:
I started in Coco with the BioCanna line and had issues within a week. I wrote Canna and they talked to me about Coco and BioCanna not having a CEC exchange compatability. They say use Coco nutes for Coco, and a peat based soil or soilless for the BioCanna line. I can dig up the email for you if you would like.
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That would be most appreciated if you don't mind...

...oh, just realized you weren't talking to me, but I'd still like to see it if possible, I'm always looking to read their input on all issues. If you do post it, be sure to redact any personal info!
 
NightbirdX

NightbirdX

Well-Known Member
Wolverine97 said:
That would be most appreciated if you don't mind...

...oh, just realized you weren't talking to me, but I'd still like to see it if possible, I'm always looking to read their input on all issues. If you do post it, be sure to redact any personal info!
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If you want me to scan and post for authenticity, let me know, I just don't have a ton of time right now, so I will cut and paste so that you can read it now.

Hello,

Biocanna Vega and Flores is not engineered to work with coco. Coco has its own qualities that are not conducive to how organics work. In fact, the coco medium itself has some base mineral components that make it no longer organic. Coco nutrients work on coco and Bio nutrients work on any decent CEC medium in peat or mineral soil. The reasoning is one of chemical composition and Cation Exchange Capacity. It has nothing to do with airation (porosity). Perlite only adds air space which is optimal in our mediums like coco, adding perlite just makes life harder for the grower.

Bio and organics in general require a place to sit while converting (mineralizing) to the desired elements then those elements need a place to stay until the plant can take them up. Because of this, hydro and inert mediums, and coco will not work since none have CEC and the chemistry is wrong. Adding cal mag or any other mineral defeats the organic reasoning, so just use Coco nutrients on coco medium and Bio nutrients on a peat or mineral based CEC medium. These will provide the best results possible. If you desire an 'organic' flavor then add BioBoost to the lineup.

Read the Infopapers on both products for a better understanding.

Ralph B.
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Wolverine97

Wolverine97

Well-Known Member
NightbirdX said:
If you want me to scan and post for authenticity, let me know, I just don't have a ton of time right now, so I will cut and paste so that you can read it now.
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Thanks! I believe you.
What he's saying about the CEC (cation exchange capacity) makes sense, and in my mind justifies also stopping feed all together the final week of flowering when using bio nutrient lines. The logic being that the organic elements need time to sit and mineralize before they become available for uptake, the timeframe depends on the activity of your microherd...
I need to do some more reading, down the rabbit hole I go!
 
NightbirdX

NightbirdX

Well-Known Member
Lol, I only understand about half of what you said, but I am glad that I could provide you with a good journey to go on. I just wish I could've provided you with the.... stimulant too, lol.
 
Matt Rize

Matt Rize

Hashmaster
Wolverine97 said:
Thanks! I believe you.
What he's saying about the CEC (cation exchange capacity) makes sense, and in my mind justifies also stopping feed all together the final week of flowering when using bio nutrient lines. The logic being that the organic elements need time to sit and mineralize before they become available for uptake, the timeframe depends on the activity of your microherd...
I need to do some more reading, down the rabbit hole I go!
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lol... don't drink the tea!

What he is saying is that you should not use fertilizers the last week or so with organics. This is because the soil is holding nutrients (CEC). The soil microbes (microherd) has to eat the fertilizers we add to make them food for plants (mineralize). Great post!
 
Matt Rize

Matt Rize

Hashmaster
NightbirdX said:
I have yet to find these "info papers" btw. I found all the other ones, just not the one on BioCanna.
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Yes. They say on the bottle that you can send them a letter with your lot number, located on the bottle, and they will give you a read out. BUT I've been waiting. If they keep this shit up I'ma raise hell.
 
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