"Battlestar Ganjatica" build with CXB3590

B

Blue Raspberry

Member
Hi everyone been lurking for a while and finally i am ready to jump in. I am looking to build a "Battlestar Ganjatica" 2 5000k and 6 3000k for a 2x4 grow room but i am wanting to improve on it by using the CXB3590. I want to use one power supply for each led but so far my search has come up with nothing that will keep the efficiency around 50%. Has anyone come across one that would work for what i am looking to do? I also am not in need of a dimming function if it can save me a few.

The only other thing i will be doing different is adding http://www.newark.com/ideal/50-2303cr/led-holder-cree-cxa35-cob-array/dp/39X0077 and wondering what CPU cooler would be the best option with them. This will be my first build so any tips are appreciated. Thanks in advance for letting my pick your big brains lol.
 
littlejacob

littlejacob

Well-Known Member
Bonjour
I was thinking like you about the pc h.s but after a few readings I went with a bigger h.s and 140mm fans (3590 cd are expensive) in that case, much, is better!
Have a great day ★
 
B

Blue Raspberry

Member
I was just starting to think the same thing and it would not cost much more. Would a 5.8" wide by 14" heatsink work for 2 of them and a 5.8" by 7" for one? I would mount http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835200078&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Case+Fans-_-N82E16835200078&gclid=CjwKEAjwocKtBRCf9d_Q5ovcyHASJAAHhJYOME2dt5BQ2NyO6DRJv2fOEecNo4TzMI9dLo6iqVhvDRoCBgLw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds one of these over each led to hopefully keep them nice and cool and pull as much heat away from the canopy as possible. In between the heatsinks will be open with the drivers mounted outside the grow room.
 
littlejacob

littlejacob

Well-Known Member
Bonjour
Sorry but I have problems with the conversion in metric ...
But go to the thread heatsink for diy and you will find everything you need
Have a nice :-) day
 
littlejacob

littlejacob

Well-Known Member
Ho and I agree with Scott .It is the best option to put 4 x3590 on the hlg-185-1400(a have a dimmer inside who go from 50% to 100%. B need a potentiometer and a resistor to be dimmed. C or d(i cannot remenber)well I never saw someone with this one...
Have a nice day
 
B

Blue Raspberry

Member
If i did that would i be able to shut off what lights i want? I am not that failure with led's but i would assume shutting off 1 or 2 in the series would drive the extra power to the remaining led's? This will be my only light and need the ability to veg and flower on the same one.
 
Sxott

Sxott

Well-Known Member
Blue Raspberry said:
If i did that would i be able to shut off what lights i want? I am not that failure with led's but i would assume shutting off 1 or 2 in the series would drive the extra power to the remaining led's? This will be my only light and need the ability to veg and flower on the same one.
Click to expand...
Well you would need 2 of them to power 8 cobs so I so guess you could put 2 5000k and 2 3000k on one driver and the last 4 3000k on the other. Not having a dimming function is not saving you much. The dimmer switch is only a couple bucks and nice to have because sometimes these cobs can be way too much for the plants and being able to dim then low enough not to hurt plants say coming off t-5s or something in a nice feature. The wires are already on the driver and its not tricky to add on. Well worth the 2 bucks.

Just to put it out there if you want to consider it:
Make your light all 3000k (what grows the buds) and add some royal blue monos.
You can dim the 3000k and flip on your blues during veg. Dimmed down cxb3590s and blues would be super efficient. Its how I have mine set up on the third build Im working on and will be added to the other 2 builds too later.

PS: By taking a cob out of a constant current (what ya want) series circuit will not cause the rest to go higher. You just wont be using the whole driver. This will cause the drivers efficiency to drop some. They like to be maxed out.

Somebody correct me if Im wrong somewhere.
 
SPLFreak808

SPLFreak808

Well-Known Member
185HCA/HCB would be the way to go for dimming. Dont use resistors/potentiometer on V out as this will bring efficiency down. The HCA has a dimmer built in i believe and the HCB has dimmer inputs. If using an HCCD then you are stuck with full output unless you dont care about efficiency.
 
SPLFreak808

SPLFreak808

Well-Known Member
littlejacob said:
Bonjour
How you would dimme a B if you do not use a potentiometer and a resistor?
Have a great day ★
Click to expand...
Type B is the same as A but without the internal potentiometer and resistor. It should have the two dimmer pins next to the v out harness. You want to regulate the boards output which is only really possible with type a or b with 25k + potentiometer. If you have a type C then forget about efficiency, you could always wire up a resistor set on the output wires if you have no internal dimmer functions or dimmer wires, but this is a band aid fix as you are using the resistor to take away from what is already being driven, causing a great reduction in efficiency and supply life span. On the HCB's you will need a resistor of some sort totaling your desired output. The resistance between the two wires will increase/decrease the pulse width modulation at the board depending on resistance used to increase or decrease voltage output.
 
littlejacob

littlejacob

Well-Known Member
bict said:
You can use a PWM signal from something like an arduino
0-10v dimming
or resistors.

Dimming does not result in reduced lifespan of the driver.
Click to expand...
Ok but how much cost an arduino, and so with it you do not loose any efficiency from the hlg! Like with potentiometer and resistor!
And how much efficiency i loose with pot + res.?
Thanks
 
bicit

bicit

Well-Known Member
littlejacob said:
Ok but how much cost an arduino, and so with it you do not loose any efficiency from the hlg! Like with potentiometer and resistor!
And how much efficiency i loose with pot + res.?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Well the driver loses efficiency no matter what. No way around that.

Arduino's can be very inexpensive depending on which version you want. Under $10 sometimes.

I seem to remember SDS starting a big thread on dimming. I wonder if I have it bookmarked.
 
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