Auto flower crossed with "semi-auto flower"

Rob Roy

Well-Known Member
I'm curious if anybody has any experience with making seeds from a true autoflower crossed with a "sem-auto flower" such as mighty mite, Iranian auto flower or other semi-autos which can be cloned and/or will remain in veg under 24 hour light?

I'm aware that it takes a few backcrosses to make auto flower seeds when an auto flower has been crossed with a true photo period. Just curious what happens when a true auto and semi-auto meet. A friend and I were discussing making reliable august or sooner finishers and this came up in conversation.

Anybody got any home made seed stories with auto x semi auto and how the plants presented? Potency ? Size etc ?

Speculations?
 

Dendrophilly

Well-Known Member
I am growing a seed from a snowryder that wouldnt auto flower, it had to have gotten pollinated by an auto so im hoping for an auto version this round.
 
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Dendrophilly

Well-Known Member
I have another female snowryder also looking like a photo period. Dont get the short stuff snow ryder regs get the fems if you want autoflowers.
 

Rob Roy

Well-Known Member
My curiousity got the best of me. After posting this thread, we dusted a couple of true auto flower females, with "semi-auto flower" pollen using a male from Oregon Green's version of Dr, Green Thumb's Iranian Auto Flower. (what I refer to as a "semi-auto flower" and call IAFO) .

In the oven now...

Critical Jack Auto x IAFO
Tangiematic Auto x IAFO
Pine Apple Exress Auto x IAFO

When the seeds mature, I may try to answer the question I originally posed. "What happens when a true auto flower and a semi auto flower are crossed?"


Notes about the IAFO are scant, but on Oregon Green Seeds website they mention their version is derived from Dr. GreenThumbstock, but they don't mention if/what else they may have outcrossed it to. Grown it once so far, it has similar growth characteristics as Dr. Green Thumbs version, as in it can be cloned, but it will jump to flower quickly and once in flower doesn't want to reveg.

Stay tuned.
 

Rob Roy

Well-Known Member
I have another female snowryder also looking like a photo period. Dont get the short stuff snow ryder regs get the fems if you want autoflowers.
Interesting. Let us know how she looks at the finish?

The thing that's hard to know for certain is why is this happening. It's possible it's a Snow Ryder auto demonstrating an anomaly. It's also possible seeds got mixed up by the breeder (it happens) and that particular plant came from photo only genetics.

Thanks for mentioning what's happening with yours, I wonder if anybody else has experienced this with that strain ?
 

Dendrophilly

Well-Known Member
Around 60% are turning up as photo periods from the reg packs if you read reviews. Its still an auto strain, it just didnt get fully stabalized as such.
 

Dendrophilly

Well-Known Member
Others have had the same exerience, i did my research when i got to a point where i knew something was wrong. I didnt have the environment for it so it turned out kinda whack but a friend did it justice and ill get to see some nugs from a clone.
 

too larry

Well-Known Member
Getaway Mountain has done a lot of breeding with semi autos up in Maine. Most of the New England guys grow his gear. He's not on here as much as he used to be. Stays on IG these days. But a good source of knowledge.
 

mordynyc

Well-Known Member
Im germing a Strawberry blue "early harvest " by WOS. Supposedly an Ibl crossed to an F4 inhouse auto. Im growing two donor S1 Zamaldelicas from NOS (technically now F5?). I still dont know if the mom or dad keeps most of the auto traits but depending on timing im probably going to pollinate an auto mom. The progeny should theoretically be
Aa
X
aa
=
A*aa, a*aa, Aa*aa...so really 1/3 will be real autos? Im not doing a semi auto landrace...i think that complicates shit.
 

conor c

Well-Known Member
.
My curiousity got the best of me. After posting this thread, we dusted a couple of true auto flower females, with "semi-auto flower" pollen using a male from Oregon Green's version of Dr, Green Thumb's Iranian Auto Flower. (what I refer to as a "semi-auto flower" and call IAFO) .

In the oven now...

Critical Jack Auto x IAFO
Tangiematic Auto x IAFO
Pine Apple Exress Auto x IAFO

When the seeds mature, I may try to answer the question I originally posed. "What happens when a true auto flower and a semi auto flower are crossed?"


Notes about the IAFO are scant, but on Oregon Green Seeds website they mention their version is derived from Dr. GreenThumbstock, but they don't mention if/what else they may have outcrossed it to. Grown it once so far, it has similar growth characteristics as Dr. Green Thumbs version, as in it can be cloned, but it will jump to flower quickly and once in flower doesn't want to reveg.

Stay tuned.
Nice i was curious about this cos i got some auto seeds and some friesland seeds there semi auto i was thinking of trying to mix i asked around but didnt get any clear answers on if the f1 be full auto or will it take the f2 or f3 selections even to fix in the auto dominant trait

I think this is how they make the bigger xxl autos but not 100% sure so be fun to see
 

Rob Roy

Well-Known Member
.


Nice i was curious about this cos i got some auto seeds and some friesland seeds there semi auto i was thinking of trying to mix i asked around but didnt get any clear answers on if the f1 be full auto or will it take the f2 or f3 selections even to fix in the auto dominant trait

I think this is how they make the bigger xxl autos but not 100% sure so be fun to see
Yep, gotta have some fun!
 

CannaOnerStar

Well-Known Member
What you mean with semi-auto is early strains i suppose.

These early strains are already a mixture between autoflowers and photoperiod, but it has been stabilised.

If you mix these with autos, they will be some autos and some early only.

I have grown some of these earlys that came from mixing of early to autos. There are quite a few of these in nordic seed banks. They have been using earlys and autos for quite a while, since only thing that could flower in northern climate before autos was early and often you had to veg them inside a bit for them to even work, unless the fall is warm and dry.

One i tried to keep under 20/4 lights and it kept pushing veeeery airy flowers, almost as if it only made preflowers, but started to make more and more of them until it died. That was a bit more complex with true early genes in it.

Currently i have low ryder#1 x northern lights F3 that was early, but not auto. It started pushing preflowers at like 3.5 weeks, but never started to flower properly until i put it under 12/12, then it started budding just fine.

The other plant i let to "flower" for like 5 months of so before it started dying. It seemed almost as if the roots slowly died of old age and fading everything above ground also because of that. the lr x nl i pruned etc while vegging it and i did veg it for quite a while, but didnt try to let it finish under veg lights. Im expecting around 120g from that lr x nl, which isnt bad for an auto, but if that were an photo with as long veg and as much training as i gave to this, i bet the photo would do better than this has. This is also frostier than commercial autos i have grown, and these lr x nl seeds are like 14 years old from some not known amateur breeder.
 

mordynyc

Well-Known Member
What you mean with semi-auto is early strains i suppose.

These early strains are already a mixture between autoflowers and photoperiod, but it has been stabilised.

If you mix these with autos, they will be some autos and some early only.

I have grown some of these earlys that came from mixing of early to autos. There are quite a few of these in nordic seed banks. They have been using earlys and autos for quite a while, since only thing that could flower in northern climate before autos was early and often you had to veg them inside a bit for them to even work, unless the fall is warm and dry.

One i tried to keep under 20/4 lights and it kept pushing veeeery airy flowers, almost as if it only made preflowers, but started to make more and more of them until it died. That was a bit more complex with true early genes in it.

Currently i have low ryder#1 x northern lights F3 that was early, but not auto. It started pushing preflowers at like 3.5 weeks, but never started to flower properly until i put it under 12/12, then it started budding just fine.

The other plant i let to "flower" for like 5 months of so before it started dying. It seemed almost as if the roots slowly died of old age and fading everything above ground also because of that. the lr x nl i pruned etc while vegging it and i did veg it for quite a while, but didnt try to let it finish under veg lights. Im expecting around 120g from that lr x nl, which isnt bad for an auto, but if that were an photo with as long veg and as much training as i gave to this, i bet the photo would do better than this has. This is also frostier than commercial autos i have grown, and these lr x nl seeds are like 14 years old from some not known amateur breeder.
I think either a plant is photo or auto. Yes you can have photos flower at 14/10 but thats genetics. There's technically no semi autoflower. Im growing a wos strawberry blue ealy harvest and im sure ill still need to flower 12/12 for 9 weeks (1 week transition minimum)
 

xtsho

Well-Known Member
There are semi auto's that are not the typically ruderalis genetics. Strains like Moroccan, Lebanese, Egyptian, and many others will exhibit early flowering traits even during long days all while having a high THC content unlike ruderalis and have been used for centuries to make hashish.
 

xtsho

Well-Known Member
I think either a plant is photo or auto. Yes you can have photos flower at 14/10 but thats genetics. There's technically no semi autoflower. Im growing a wos strawberry blue ealy harvest and im sure ill still need to flower 12/12 for 9 weeks (1 week transition minimum)

Some refer to many landrace strains as semi autoflowering. These are strains that would harvest in August and September months earlier than standard photoperiods but not as fast as an autoflower with ruderalis genetics. I've had a Moroccan Ketama flower under 18/6 light but it was a nice potent plant. Nothing like a ruderalis. But who knows what was mixed with what centuries ago since cannabis was used and carried about by a variety of different peoples long before we were growing weed.
 

CannaOnerStar

Well-Known Member
I think either a plant is photo or auto. Yes you can have photos flower at 14/10 but thats genetics. There's technically no semi autoflower. Im growing a wos strawberry blue ealy harvest and im sure ill still need to flower 12/12 for 9 weeks (1 week transition minimum)
All the strains that have been cultivated outside as landrace in northern parts are these early strains, regular photos simply dont have time to start flowering and finish soon enough because the summers in north are too short. For strain to be able to finish in north it either needs to be auto or early.

Either way these early strains have been grown in norther parts of the world for hundreds or perhaps thousands of years and autoflowering drug varieties came much later.

There are also variances in these early strains. I see these are very unknown outside northerners, but in the olden days these earlys were called long day strains or semi lon day strains(dunno if there was an english term for these). Long day strains start to flower in 18/6 light cycle and semi long day need more than 6 hours but less than 12 hours of darkness. However i doubt they would flower properly unless the days would get shorter from this. They are called early because they begin to flower early outside, before the sun hits 12/12 time.

These early flowering strains that have been grown in north as landrace plants most likely get their early gene from autoflowering hemp mixing with drug varieties that before grew only a bit more down south.

Here is an example of a classic early strain from denmark:
 

mordynyc

Well-Known Member
Some refer to many landrace strains as semi autoflowering. These are strains that would harvest in August and September months earlier than standard photoperiods but not as fast as an autoflower with ruderalis genetics. I've had a Moroccan Ketama flower under 18/6 light but it was a nice potent plant. Nothing like a ruderalis. But who knows what was mixed with what centuries ago since cannabis was used and carried about by a variety of different peoples long before we were growing weed.
Harvested too at 18/6?
Very informative guys but I'm either ignorant or it's a shame we still dont know what exactly triggers a photo plant to flower clearly lack of consecutive solar energy but why, why does 1 hour midnight light keep it in veg ie gas lighting.
 

mordynyc

Well-Known Member
Ima spray ethephon 400ppm at flip to flower see if i see a pistils without having to wait over a week.
I have some IAA which is an auxin opposite of flowering hormones wonder if it keeps autos in veg.
 

xtsho

Well-Known Member
Harvested too at 18/6?
Very informative guys but I'm either ignorant or it's a shame we still dont know what exactly triggers a photo plant to flower clearly lack of consecutive solar energy but why, why does 1 hour midnight light keep it in veg ie gas lighting.
Both male and female started flowering under 18/6. I moved the males, collected pollen, pollinated a female to make more seeds and then put the female in the flower tent under 12/12. But it was growing pistils under 18/6 and took the pollination and I ended up with a bunch of seeds.
 
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