Are these ready to transplant?
- Thread starter jasonzbtzl
- Start date
jasonzbtzl
Active Member
How old are yours in these pictures? I beginning to wonder why mine are so small still, it's been 10 days
jondamon
Well-Known Member
Answered in PM.
BUT about 14 days from sprouting roughly.
I don't really count days or weeks.
I base everything I do on size and structure.
However I grow in coco and constantly supply feed.
You have quite a large cup so they'll be building root mass first.
Don't worry they'll take off when the roots have done their thing first.
J
BUT about 14 days from sprouting roughly.
I don't really count days or weeks.
I base everything I do on size and structure.
However I grow in coco and constantly supply feed.
You have quite a large cup so they'll be building root mass first.
Don't worry they'll take off when the roots have done their thing first.
J
jasonzbtzl
Active Member
Thanks you've been a great help....
A general rule is to put off transplanting until the largest leaves have grown to reach the rim of the pot (cup in this case). The root system grows at about the same rate as the leaves do above ground. Transplanting now would lead to taller, less bushy plants. Reason is that plants will spend almost all their energy growing roots until the roots hit the inside of the pot/cup. Once the roots "side out" the plant turns to growing greenery. So wait a week or 2 until the leaves reach out over the rim. Good luck, BigSteve.
BubbaGumpHemp
Well-Known Member
no
Chris Cures
Member
I started my plants in decent sized pots. One two avoid mutiple transplants and two because those are the pots I had access too. My plan was to use this inside vegging until I transfer to 3 gal pots and move them outside.
Question: Is it bad to start in such big pots since it will focus a lot more time and energy and the roots?
Question: Is it bad to start in such big pots since it will focus a lot more time and energy and the roots?
jasonzbtzl
Active Member
Thanks Steve, that makes good sense....
jacksthc
Well-Known Member
There not a lot of diffence what size pot you strat off in
I start plants off in small pots to save space
if you u large pots you have to be more carefull when and how much water you give the plants
(When the roots start to get root bound the plant growth slows down and when you repot the plant the roots take a day or two to start growing again
if you get it right the plants will grow quicker in a large pot from start to finsh, best way when growing auto's
Lots of light, keep temps in range and water at the right time and the plants will grow quick
I start plants off in small pots to save space
if you u large pots you have to be more carefull when and how much water you give the plants
(When the roots start to get root bound the plant growth slows down and when you repot the plant the roots take a day or two to start growing again
if you get it right the plants will grow quicker in a large pot from start to finsh, best way when growing auto's
Lots of light, keep temps in range and water at the right time and the plants will grow quick
jasonzbtzl
Active Member
My mix has perlite already in it I'm using Big City Hydro coco indoor mix, perlite is the second ingredient after the coco, but I can't see where or if it give a % of how much
http://sanctuarysoil.com/sanctuary_soil_products/big-city-hydro-mix-premium-indoor-blend/
Cobnobuler
Well-Known Member
...Best to cut some in anyways. Usually whats supplied out of the bag isn't near enough to give aeration for growing the ganga
Your gettin some good advice by some good guys here.
jondamon
Well-Known Member
Well actually.... Coco once fully saturated with 20% runoff remains with a 23% air value just on its own.
But
Personally I like a finer grade of coco but I still mix about 20% perlite into it.
However for starting seeds I like plain coco as you can see from the picture. Any perlite on the coco surface of the plant showing roots is simply from back filling around the cup.
The pot awaiting it has about 25% perlite.
The perlite and rocks that the OP has in his may hinder some root development but shouldn't matter too much.
I think that the course mix that you've bought IMO should be used for larger plants on the next pot up after germination and a finer grade would benefit your next batch of seedlings.
Just an FYI you can clone in straight coco too.
Keep humidity high and you shouldn't see any yellowing of the clones either as they root.
J
vostok
Well-Known Member
See.. the deal with using perlite, is that it avoids root compaction and it also dilutes those 'hot soil' like FFOF or even MG(mircle grow), that means should you have ample perlite to hot soil ratio, means you can add your own nutes later, for either veg or bud, without burning those roots or getting nute burn or whatever, you need not worry about perlite affecting your plants as it inert, but will melt if your temps get above 900 degrees C ...lol
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perlite
jasonzbtzl
Active Member
Thanks again everyone for your input. Well it looks like two of the three are getting bigger almost everyday. The only one thats really starting to worry me is one that just does not look like she's getting any bigger, maybe slower roots. She has gotten all the same conditions, the only difference is she's different strain, she's a raspberry cough?? not sure if that matters?? The other two are Rippers Grapegum and Royal Queen Critical, all are feminized.
jasonzbtzl
Active Member
Well I went ahead and moved these girls to the tent and under my CLW solarstorm 220w LED. I have them about 24" away from the light currently, should I move them closer?
