Apollo spectrum recommendations?

I know this question has been posed before, but I haven't seen anything recent.... I'm about to order an Apollo from Cidly. I know some people would suggest something else, but this is what I believe will give me the best bang for the buck in my budget. Designing for scrog... was thinking about starting with cfl, but primarily relying on the Apollo after that.

My question is... Can anyone offer suggestions on what they feel would be the ideal spectrum design for flowering with this unit? There are 15 led's per cluster... I was thinking about this:

(1) 730nm
(6) 660nm
(4) 630nm
(2) 460nm
(1) 2700K
(1) 12000K

I was also wondering if the 730nm would be a good use for one of the slots? I've read varying opinions on whether this is generally only useful for short periods before and after the light cycle. Since the 730 would be running for the full light cycle, would the slot be better served with something else?

What would you use with this 15 led arrangement?
Thanks!

This is from http://feroled.net/led-grow-lamps-guide/led-grow-light-spectrum/

2 x 6500k
1 x 430nm
2 x 455nm
1 x 630nm
4 x 640nm
3 x 660nm
1 730nm

Also, you might want to take a gander here; https://www.rollitup.org/led-other-lighting/644468-fist-led-grow.html

ellydee said:

This is from http://feroled.net/led-grow-lamps-guide/led-grow-light-spectrum/

2 x 6500k
1 x 430nm
2 x 455nm
1 x 630nm
4 x 640nm
3 x 660nm
1 730nm

Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestion... although my initial thoughts are that this may be a little heavy on the blues for flowering, especially when you consider the 6500K has a good amount of blue in it as well. I am definitely no expert though. Any other opinions on this? Also, what about the constant use of the 730nm? Would that slot be better served with something else?

I think you have a decent mix, although I would leave out the 730 nm diode. replace it with an additional 660. Use only 6500k for your whites. The blue peak in 6500k light peaks at the perfect spot. One of the main additions was a large 425w 6500k T-5 fixture. Before this I was using primarily 2700k and 660,630,430 style light with mixed results.

The truth is that cannabis wants the maximum umoles of PAR as possible. In veg the limiting factor is chlorophyll which is why 6500k and other blue heavy light sources do an amazing job, but in flowering hormonal triggers are in operation making secondary pigments the limiting factor if you are already maxing out chlorophyll. Red light is best for stimulating these pigments, and certain wavelengths at certain times of the day are best for optimum growth.

The atmosphere around our planet is a thin layer compared to the relative size of our planet. So light passing through at an angle gets more reflection of blue, green and yellow light. As the sun passes under the horizon it's wavelength is brought down around 730-780nm. This light dominates more during fall than summer because the sun hangs lower in the sky.

Only use infrared light when it is controlled by a separate timer. You can activate it for 5-10 minutes before your lights turn on in the morning and for 5-10 minutes at lights off. You can extend your day and expect your flowers to finish sooner. Remember you can only grow so much plant matter in a certain volume of space. Most people would rather simply spend more money on standard light in hopes of reaching maximum PAR.

If I were you, my blend would be:
3 x 6500k
2 x 430nm
6 x 660nm
4 x 640nm

2/3 red diodes, is a great mix when you choose the right blues and whites. You want to peak your blues for 420-440nm which the 6500k does a great job of, and the 2 430nm diodes help sustain those perfect blues. The red is self explanitory, along with enough green, yellow, and orange from the 6500k. I am assuming this is a fullcycle model that you will be using for veg and flower. Additional 2700k light in flowering would be recommended.

Half of growing with LEDs, for me anyway, has been about knowing when to give what wavelengths of light. Eventually I found a unique solution. Lights about 12-18" away angled in and on timers so that they would only last 50min/hour, and whites only on for 11 hours a day each. Having the lights close is fine as long as you are still getting a good color spread and you allow the plant to rest now and again as cloud cover in nature would provide. Light movers are something every LED enthusiast should be using, but somehow people don't seem to think they work. Light movers helped me lower the amount of lighting I needed in veg, which saved me about 20% total kw/day in veg.

Sorry for the long article. I've been away for a while and I figured you might find it useful.
Sincerely,
ILovePlants

I agree with Iloveplant about the 730nm diode,
I think that IR should be used only at the end of the day cycle

This spectrum seems good to, but there is too blue light in my opinion
It's a good spectrum for veg, but in flowering the buds could be a little thin

I think that it may be better to have a spectrum more focused on flowering

so I prefer :
4 x 6500k
1 x 430nm
5 x 660nm
5 x 630nm

not very different but less blue light
So you don't need additional 2700k light in flowering
my opinion..

Drop the 730, it's useless, most white LED's provide enough far red and Infrared.

12000k white is ridiculous too.

You don't need blue either, 6500k will give more than enough blue light.
Focus on getting a nice full spectrum with 6500k and 2700k, and just fill in with reds, mostly in the 620-630nm range.

x5 6500k
x5 2700k
x4 630nm
x1 660nm

IMO.

Or even;

x6 6500k
x4 2700k
x3 630nm
x2 660nm

If you're worried about light in the 400nm range and the far red range, this will provide a bit more in both areas.

I would probably still go with the first spectrum however.

W/R Leds is the best choice (I think )
Lot of DIY lights are made with this kind of spectrum and it works fine, it seems