Apache AT600 led vs 1000w HPS Blue Dream Grow

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
If it turns out that blue does the job, that would be very convenient since that is what LEDs are best at. Plus the blue is useful photo-synthetically useful and for controlling stretch.

So the % UVB of reptile lamps is relatively small but regarding UVA I have to make a clarification, the % UVA (~315-390nm) is very significant compared to the white light emitted. Here is the 2.0 vs 5.0 vs 10.0 (exo terra repti glo) T8. Of course these light sources are relatively low efficiency to begin with and they rely heavily on reflectors to deliver it, so if we could see a blue or cool white LED compared on the same chart it would be a huge wide blue spike going way off the chart.
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hyroot

Well-Known Member
I ate some tryptophan earlier today at lunch.

the zoo med reptile bulbs are a decent price now


http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=6016 6028 19108 25696&pcatid=25696



I have a bunch of coral waves laying around




When I used to do par t5 I'd use one per 8 bulb. Doesn't have uvb but does have uva, plus a lot of blue and IR and a 660 bump.. Maybe throw these up next batch. 1 between each light.

I also have a couple of zoo med flora suns



full specrtum with a uva and a little uvb nice 440 and 660 spike
 
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Greengenes707

Well-Known Member
Some people call me the space cowboy...yeah

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Great coverage of this 5x5 for veg
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I want to get it into a 3x3 and start getting measurements. It's going to be super even, I got that from a quick test. 415µmols@22". Haven't played too much yet, but that hight giver my whole garden good coverage right now.
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The spectrum is fucking pure. It is truly sun like visually. I perfect late summers day.
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The guts of it all. everything is bolted securely...wires messy looking, but connections are clean. The rails will be cut shorter on the ends, I just wanted to see it working first, incase it needed changes.
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I was going to run 2 fan power supplies...but melted on unsoldering AT's connection. So I am wondering how that will go on just one. 12v-1.25a. I was trying to work with what I had on hand, but I will just get 1 power supply for all 6 now.
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Badass lamp nice work! Should be about 315W of LED dissipation @ 42.1% efficiency minimum, perfect for a 3X3. 90% efficient drivers and probably more than 80% efficient fan PSU. One thing we have discovered, those 1.4A drivers get very hot even though they are 90%. The heat should not affect their efficiency but it might affect their longevity. Is there a way to get a bit of airflow in the driver box?
 

MrFlux

Well-Known Member
Looking great GG, looks a bit like the battlestar that Gaius build.

But one wall wart powering all fans is not very reliable. I've had two of these adaptors fail. It looks like a 2A/24W model which on paper is sufficient for the ~16W of the fans. But in reality, when turning the power on, the fans will draw an extra inrush current. The cheap Chinese adaptor has no overload protection and could just fail. All six COBs will then overheat and likely be lost.
 

chazbolin

Well-Known Member
Like Diy said above me we are speaking from lots of experience, I have not researched as much as GG, supra or others but I still know a thing or two and LEDs are making huge strides right now. Just waiting for commercial panels to use COBs and shit is gonna get real
I think GG is on to something here. Perhaps AT picks it up and runs extensions on their commercial 600 so the COBS can blend the main panels diodes. Might be a good time to play with 730 @ lights out too.
 

chazbolin

Well-Known Member
Hiya GG! That was another good video. Not that it would be production values but what would you estimate it costs you to build one of these?
 

Greengenes707

Well-Known Member
I got the watt meter to work. A little difference as always with this thing.
On 240v it runs 330w 1.48a .96PF
On 120v it runs 372w 3.04a .99PF

I will be running 240v as usual, but I just find this intriguing every time...it has to be the meter.

Whats up chaz, when will you be doing a run again.

For me cost it came out to about ~$570. That covers the essentials and must haves for the modules and mounting. Un accounted for in that is the AT housing/switches/powercord and some tools like bits/taps, new iron maybe(though no soldering style can be done). So for a general perspective, somewhere between $525-$600 based on how resourceful the builder can be.
For me $1.53/w completed and working.


My IR thermometer right at/after off is 39-41*C. It's hot as ball here...103*F today so I know this is the worst it can get pretty much here. With ambient being up those are great operating temps imo if they are close to actual Tc
 
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