anyone see this type of problem? and how do I correct it
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unforgiven1420
Well-Known Member
whats the temp in your room? looks like serious heat stress
Thanks for the input,
but the heat has never went above 85 with a low of 78 and an average of around 81-82. I know this is slightly high but I do have co2 around 800ppm.
originally I had the ph adjusted for soil around 6.5, but have adjusted it to around 5.5 (since I learned that coco needs Hydro parameters and not soil) this is just reading of the water I have been adding, I need to wait another couple of days for the next watering to test the water runoff, This is my first time in coco, would the ph swing high enough up to get to dangerous levels? my understanding is that canna coco is ph neutral
my mix is coco and perlite with a handful of higromite
but the heat has never went above 85 with a low of 78 and an average of around 81-82. I know this is slightly high but I do have co2 around 800ppm.
originally I had the ph adjusted for soil around 6.5, but have adjusted it to around 5.5 (since I learned that coco needs Hydro parameters and not soil) this is just reading of the water I have been adding, I need to wait another couple of days for the next watering to test the water runoff, This is my first time in coco, would the ph swing high enough up to get to dangerous levels? my understanding is that canna coco is ph neutral
my mix is coco and perlite with a handful of higromite
unforgiven1420
Well-Known Member
hmmmm.....any chance you have a faulty thermometer? are you measuring the temp at the canopy instead of at the base of the plant? hot air rises so if its 85 at the base it may be over 90 at the canopy.
I am using a dual gauge hydrometer the main unit is mounted on the wall and the external diode is suspended slight higher than the light, currently I am only using a 400w digital with MH on a 5ft rail originally I had this light with a sunleaves lamp but have switched to a lower efficient Eiko lamp in case there was to much intensity of any particuliar color spectrum. When I first moved the plants to the MH from Flouro I had the lamp around 18-20 inches above but for the last couple of days the light has been over 3ft with consistent light air movement (I have a fan hitting a door reflecting a light breeze in to the flowering room)
unforgiven1420
Well-Known Member
is the whole plant like that or just a few leaves? how longs it been canoeing like that?
only the top 2-3 fan leaves are showing this. I noticed it on the first plant around 5 days ago but since then it has spread to the others, now every plant is showing this symptom but not quite to the extreme that the pictured plant has. The new growth is not showing this but the leaves do appear to be alittle bit lighter green than normal but they are firm and have a constant color to them (not blotchy)
No the leaves started to curl before I switched to a ph of 5.5, After I started to see the curl I tried to find the problem and that is when I found that the ph was to high, but is a ph of 6.5 high enough to cause lockout? All of my other grows have either been in aero or DWC and from time to time the ph would swing into the mid 6's when i had to leave for a week or two for work, and I never saw damage. But this is my first coco grow
Jonus
Well-Known Member
5.8 to 6.0 would be perfect for coco. Then all you need is some calcium and manganese additive to balance it out. At 5.5 phosporous and magnesium would be locked out. At 6.5 phosporous, potassium, calcium, manganese, iron and boron are locked out. You can usually get away with that during the veg phase because the plants are mostly consuming nitrogen, but the symtoms of wrong pH tend to show themselves about week 2 or more into flowering when the plant is asking for everything else other than nitrogen.
jussurphin
Active Member
Heat stress, Bud Get that thermometer UNDER that light and see how hot it REALLY is. Bet its 95 or better
yelodrvr
Well-Known Member
jonus is pointing you in the right direction IMO. before you go buying more chemicals, flush first. i have not been able to figure out if you are hydro or soil. you said last grows where DWC, areo. i seen the coco cant it be used in all methods? regardless if soil flush. if hydro dump the res and clean it good. start over, give it a day or two if you don't see a change you better flush for a few days. i really cant see it well in your pic. do you have a better one? also you fail to mention (or i failed to pay attention) if your in veg or flower? the nute your using? any micro nutes? iron, zinc, ect. if hydro what are the water temps? this info would be useful. without, i would not take a diagnosis from anybody.
here is a link to pics of plant problems.
look at figure 6 and 14 is that close.
https://www.rollitup.org/general-marijuana-growing/1469-marijuana-plant-problems-cures.html
http://www.ganjaguerrilla.net/
the best info IMO
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688
here is a link to pics of plant problems.
look at figure 6 and 14 is that close.
https://www.rollitup.org/general-marijuana-growing/1469-marijuana-plant-problems-cures.html
http://www.ganjaguerrilla.net/
the best info IMO
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688
Jonus
Well-Known Member
Yes you want to take the temporature at the top of your plants, thats the most critical spot.
As for your pH, just start pHing to 6.0 then ease it back to 5.8 to 5.9 over the next week.
May not seem much of a difference, but in Coco a difference of 5.5 to 5.8 means byebyes to phosporous, and a phosporous lockout looks like this in the early stages, and just gets worse the longer you leave it.
Once a leaf gets to that stage you arent gonna win it back. But getting the temps right and your pH right on the money and you will save the rest of your plant.
As for your pH, just start pHing to 6.0 then ease it back to 5.8 to 5.9 over the next week.
May not seem much of a difference, but in Coco a difference of 5.5 to 5.8 means byebyes to phosporous, and a phosporous lockout looks like this in the early stages, and just gets worse the longer you leave it.
Once a leaf gets to that stage you arent gonna win it back. But getting the temps right and your pH right on the money and you will save the rest of your plant.
Jonus
Well-Known Member
There is very little info around concerning the right pH for growing in coco. Mine is from my own experience which is growing in coco like soil, and the pH works well at about 5.8 to 6.0 which seems to be fine.
However I do not know what the pH levels would be if one was growing via the drip hydro system using coco. I suspect it would be the same.
Yep that would be better than what I suggested. IMHO changing the pH in coco is a little harder than soil or other soiless mediums and it would probably take a few flushes.
Don't let the coco get too dry, you mentioned above that you go several days without watering. Not good for coco if it gets too dry, especially since there is no reason to, it is not soil. Ph of 5.8-6.2. Did you check the ph and ec of your run off? I have a feeling you are going to be way high due to the limited watering.
Good luck mate,
Unity
Good luck mate,
Unity
smokeybandit22
Well-Known Member
and the 100,000 question...what is your RH?
Hello,
Thank you all very much for the all the suggestions, its great to see that there is some assistance for the times we run into problems
to smokey bandit my RH is around 50%
To Unity Are you saying that it is ok to water heavily when using coco? so unlike growing in soil you do not need to have a drying out period to force oxygen into the soil? when growing in coco like soil, what watering schedule would you recommend? I have my girls in 4 gallons of coco mix (coco perlite and higromite) in a 5 gallon bags should I be saturating the soil on a daily basis?
To yelodrvr I am growing in Coco in a soil fashion and manually watering via hoses to a switch, I have been using Advanced nutrients Sensi grow A and B ( this is the first time I have used this normally I like to stick with dutch master gold A B) I am using Dutch master max effects , follitech and penetrator, for my foliar feeding and Recently have added a myco mix called micogrow from fungi perfectii. Neither of the pics in figure 6 and 14 look like what is going on, The interesting part of the leave curl to me is that if you unroll the leaves the leaves look completyly healthy, no blotches, no vein coloration, no coloration on the edges, just a nice deep even green. I am two weeks into VEG.
and to Jonus, I measured the the light temp at the canopy when the light is directly above and am getting a temp of 82. A quick question on the photo of the leave with the phosporus lockout, did you see the dying edges quickly with the leaf curl or did it curl for a long time before the plant tissue started to die. ( my leaves are very tightly curled but other than that there is no other sign of nute def.)
Thank you all very much for the all the suggestions, its great to see that there is some assistance for the times we run into problems
to smokey bandit my RH is around 50%
To Unity Are you saying that it is ok to water heavily when using coco? so unlike growing in soil you do not need to have a drying out period to force oxygen into the soil? when growing in coco like soil, what watering schedule would you recommend? I have my girls in 4 gallons of coco mix (coco perlite and higromite) in a 5 gallon bags should I be saturating the soil on a daily basis?
To yelodrvr I am growing in Coco in a soil fashion and manually watering via hoses to a switch, I have been using Advanced nutrients Sensi grow A and B ( this is the first time I have used this normally I like to stick with dutch master gold A B) I am using Dutch master max effects , follitech and penetrator, for my foliar feeding and Recently have added a myco mix called micogrow from fungi perfectii. Neither of the pics in figure 6 and 14 look like what is going on, The interesting part of the leave curl to me is that if you unroll the leaves the leaves look completyly healthy, no blotches, no vein coloration, no coloration on the edges, just a nice deep even green. I am two weeks into VEG.
and to Jonus, I measured the the light temp at the canopy when the light is directly above and am getting a temp of 82. A quick question on the photo of the leave with the phosporus lockout, did you see the dying edges quickly with the leaf curl or did it curl for a long time before the plant tissue started to die. ( my leaves are very tightly curled but other than that there is no other sign of nute def.)
Hello,
Thank you all very much for the all the suggestions, its great to see that there is some assistance for the times we run into problems
to smokey bandit my RH is around 50%
To Unity Are you saying that it is ok to water heavily when using coco? so unlike growing in soil you do not need to have a drying out period to force oxygen into the soil? when growing in coco like soil, what watering schedule would you recommend? I have my girls in 4 gallons of coco mix (coco perlite and higromite) in a 5 gallon bags should I be saturating the soil on a daily basis?
I'm not sure about how much to water, I use rockwool. When i saw your problem I did a quick search online 'watering coco' and found countless posts that would help you out. One of the points: "when coco gets too dry the hairs on the roots die....bla bla bla...stunting..." You get the point
To yelodrvr I am growing in Coco in a soil fashion and manually watering via hoses to a switch, I have been using Advanced nutrients Sensi grow A and B ( this is the first time I have used this normally I like to stick with dutch master gold A B) I am using Dutch master max effects , follitech and penetrator, for my foliar feeding and Recently have added a myco mix called micogrow from fungi perfectii. Neither of the pics in figure 6 and 14 look like what is going on, The interesting part of the leave curl to me is that if you unroll the leaves the leaves look completyly healthy, no blotches, no vein coloration, no coloration on the edges, just a nice deep even green. I am two weeks into VEG.
and to Jonus, I measured the the light temp at the canopy when the light is directly above and am getting a temp of 82. A quick question on the photo of the leave with the phosporus lockout, did you see the dying edges quickly with the leaf curl or did it curl for a long time before the plant tissue started to die. ( my leaves are very tightly curled but other than that there is no other sign of nute def.)
Good luck mate,
Unity
