Yes a very basic lux meter would be good to compare relative intensities over a canopy. Say for instance measuring the intensity of a lamp at a given distance or with a different set of optics. It would NOT be a good way to compare the intensities of different CCT lights sources. For example, 2700k vs 5000k. That's where a quality spectroradiometer comes into play.
All good the PPFD charts are valid and useful data and will give you relative intensity the same way lux gives us lumen/m².
They originally used vero 18's in their lower power units. I think they phased them out when they added the CXB options.Optic carries fixtures with Vero 18's now? ...
No, the lens should pose no issue what so ever in your situation. I wouldn't replace it with anything unless you've got a really strong itch to customize it.
Thanks for that. I'm not looking for a project, I'd just like the light to last as long as possible so I thought I'd look into this. As a side note, it's working really well -- the plant I have under it is very happy.
As is the light should outlast your need for it. Honestly, the drivers and fans are the weak points in that system. You'll probably have to replace those several times before you have to worry about your emitters.
Thanks for the heads up, I'll keep an eye out for failures. Sounds like you are not a fan of Optic Lighting?
It's not that at all, I have no issues with optic lighting or their products. As a general rule, fans and drivers are the weak points in any led panel, their rated life span is considerably lower than the emitters thus will fail eventually(most likely many many years down the road). The rest of the 'stuff' that composes a typical light (heatsink, wire, housing, ect) don't wear out under typical conditions.
Thanks for clarifying. I like everything about COBs; efficiency, size, durability, running cool... well, everything except it would of course be nice if they cost a lot less than they do. Lucky for me I'm still working in small spaces.
Hey AP what type of cob holders does a person use to attach Vero 18 to a heatsinksOptic carries fixtures with Vero 18's now? ...
For drilling, a drill stand really helps, for it ensures perpendicularity and you can adjust max depth to not hit the fins. For the Veros, I drilled with M2.5 -To my suprise, this may take some time on 600RPM, I thought the material was softer. I'd then tap in three steps towards M3 (with quality taps!) while holding the heatsink in one hand, the "cordless screwdriver" (what a term) in the other. Tap in, set on reverse and screw out. For aluminium, you should use alcohol as a lube. I was kind of afraid of this process, because here is where you would ruin your material. After one or two heatsinks, you really get into the routine. Good luck!
You are correct, with my meter it makes a huge difference if you are measuring light from a single COB or measuring light on the edge of the canopy. It does make sense to point the sensor directly at the light source IMO although I am not if that is standard practice when making PAR maps..
